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Raising Two Puppies At Once


Sheridan
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They don't stop chewing when the adult teeth erupt - there is still quite a bit of uncomfortable teeth movement to go. Mine always love to chew timber - must be the right texture. I provide veggie pig ears, frozen chicken frames etc which seem to work. Training wise I do LOTS of value building games on both sides using food and tug and moving forward as a reward. Lots and lots. It will pay off for agility too.

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They don't stop chewing when the adult teeth erupt - there is still quite a bit of uncomfortable teeth movement to go. Mine always love to chew timber - must be the right texture. I provide veggie pig ears, frozen chicken frames etc which seem to work. Training wise I do LOTS of value building games on both sides using food and tug and moving forward as a reward. Lots and lots. It will pay off for agility too.

My concern is leaving them with something while I'm at work. Roo takes everything off Bunny and I don't want arguments.

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It's only my two puppies. I may have to separate them down the track (certainly when Bunny goes into season) but they're pretty good together most of the time.

Gave them bones tonight. Roo outside, Bunny inside on a mat. Both gave them up very easily, which is great.

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Mine will give them up to me no problem but less likely to each other. I keep mine separated because a) puppies are damned annoying lol and b) I like to foster independence - my lot could not care less if they are separated, even Mama and daughter. They are also learning patience whilst others are being trained.

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For the pulling, try a longish lead and loop a portion of it down in front of the chest so that it can flap slightly when the dog is walking... I tried it on one foster I had that was a puller and it worked a charm... don't ask me why, but it did!

T.

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Patience with pullers - you have to out-stubborn them!

Best method I have found (although you have to steel yourself against feeling embarrassed, so what if the neighbours think you are crazy?? LOL) is whenever they pull, stop dead and reverse, walking quickly in the opposite direction. You will get giddy at first, because then they race ahead to pull in that direction, so you need to constantly about face (often your strolls cover about ten miles in ten feet LOL.)

I like to put on offended body language when they pull, but not make a sound, just stop and instantly reverse but praise happily and treat for the split second they are on a loose lead while catching up. You have to start walking fairly quickly but once they have the idea of a loose leash it is best to vary your gait from fast to slow. In your case you will want to find the best show gait for each pup anyway, so getting them to gait on a loose lead at various speeds is ideal, as the best speed for each pup may vary until maturity.

Sometimes zigzagging madly will make a puller stop and think and start to watch more carefully where you are going instead of where they want to go but it looks even crazier than the constant stop and reverse!

Edited by RuralPug
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For the pulling, try a longish lead and loop a portion of it down in front of the chest so that it can flap slightly when the dog is walking... I tried it on one foster I had that was a puller and it worked a charm... don't ask me why, but it did!

T.

I think I'd need a picture of that as I can't quite visualise it.

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Mine will give them up to me no problem but less likely to each other. I keep mine separated because a) puppies are damned annoying lol and b) I like to foster independence - my lot could not care less if they are separated, even Mama and daughter. They are also learning patience whilst others are being trained.

Other than crating all day I don't actually have a way to separate mine.

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Patience with pullers - you have to out-stubborn them!

Best method I have found (although you have to steel yourself against feeling embarrassed, so what if the neighbours think you are crazy?? LOL) is whenever they pull, stop dead and reverse, walking quickly in the opposite direction. You will get giddy at first, because then they race ahead to pull in that direction, so you need to constantly about face (often your strolls cover about ten miles in ten feet LOL.)

I like to put on offended body language when they pull, but not make a sound, just stop and instantly reverse but praise happily and treat for the split second they are on a loose lead while catching up. You have to start walking fairly quickly but once they have the idea of a loose leash it is best to vary your gait from fast to slow. In your case you will want to find the best show gait for each pup anyway, so getting them to gait on a loose lead at various speeds is ideal, as the best speed for each pup may vary until maturity.

Sometimes zigzagging madly will make a puller stop and think and start to watch more carefully where you are going instead of where they want to go but it looks even crazier than the constant stop and reverse!

I'll give the zigzag a try though I've already done the stop and turn many times. It's very hard to out stubborn a wheaten. They're quite tone deaf to correction.

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For the pulling, try a longish lead and loop a portion of it down in front of the chest so that it can flap slightly when the dog is walking... I tried it on one foster I had that was a puller and it worked a charm... don't ask me why, but it did!

T.

I think I'd need a picture of that as I can't quite visualise it.

I got it fom a thread here some years ago... they posted a picture, but I can't find the thread... grrr!

T.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, we went for a walk through day and though he's still pulling a little and trying to get it off sometimes, Roo and I had a good walk. It does exert pressure on the muzzle but it acts more like a horse bridle. The pressure comes from the top rather than down underneath the chin. It goes over the head and nose. It secures underneath the chin to the dog's collar while the lead attaches to the part over the head. I don't know how a regular halti stops a dog from pulling as I haven't used one.

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Most headcollars work the same .. it is the pressure on top of the muzzle which stops a dog stretching his neck/head and forging ahead ...also pressure on the neck immediately behind the skull . In essence - the handler can have a hold of the dog's head in a firm grip - which can definitely make a dog submit and settle ...

i just wasn't sure of the engineering behind this one :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Haven't posted for a while. The two terrors are keeping me busy. Bunny has decided that she doesn't want her beard groomed. She gets quite narky and I don't want it to get worse. Roo, on the other hand, doesn't want to be groomed at all. Also, he's become a teenager. He's wee-ed inside a number of times. Dominance weeing, I'd say. And the dear little man has no sense of personal space at all.

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