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BCNut

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    SA
  1. Hi everyone For sale I have my 6 sets of 2x2 weavers - happy to sell all 6 together or 2 sets of 3. They are from Gadget Fabrications, they are high quality powder coated and well looked after, comes with original bag, pegs etc. Had minimal use and are competition standard. http://www.gadgetfab...nt/weavers.html $100 for 3 sets or $200 for all 6. Cant remember how much I paid, but certain this is a bargain. Prefer to sell in SA for pickup/dropoff reasons but don't be shy if you're interstate should be able to work something out.
  2. I know some of you will find this interesting...also posted in studies topic. Summary of recent findings in ongoing study into brain activity in non-anaesthetised dogs. MRI scans suggest higher levels of cognitive functioning and emotional intelligence than previously thought. LINK
  3. Summary of recent findings in ongoing study into brain activity in non-anaesthetised dogs. MRI scans suggest higher levels of cognitive functioning and emotional intelligence than previously thought. LINK
  4. The pup class is a great idea! :) Wish there was something like that here. Good luck I got 'The Focused Puppy' from agilityclick.com which is in QLD. They have a fair bit of stuff on there its pretty good :)
  5. My 6mth BC female pup tried the same thing, pushing the 1.5yr boy out the way when I was patting him. I just nudged her back out the way and put my body in between the two with my back turned to the pup, worked a treat. If you've decided to keep him entire for a while, as I did with my boy, you may find a spike in frantic sniffing, marking and selective hearing. But as mentioned earlier, every pup is different. Good luck
  6. Whitka, I would highly recommend 'Shaping Success' by Susan Garrett - a book that describes the training of an agility dog from pup through adulthood. All the exercises can be done with an older dog, I use it for both my 1.5yr dog and 6mth one. Very popular amongst agility people.
  7. Oops wrong topic...too many windows open
  8. Build a good history with the toy too; get your tug game rules down pat in close quarters first - make it really fun and give it structure; 1) If you touch me, game ends 2) When I say out (or your release toy command), game ends 3) Only tug when I say tug. As for handing the toy over, play a game called 'Tug and out'. Place the dog in a sit. Dangle to the toy around him at a distance that isn't going to drive him too crazy if he's new to impulse control, when he's showing restraint mark with a 'yes' and release to tug with a word such as 'tug'. Play for a few moments. Before he escalates too far, stop tugging and moving altogether and put a piece of his dinner kibble on his nose and as he releases give your verbal cue for releasing a toy such as 'drop'. Give him the kibble. Then start again...keep it short and fun, get really excited and animated as this will engage him more. Be sure to fade the kibble as soon as you can so he does not become dependant on being fed to spit out a toy. This way he should be very focused on the toy when you release him to it and the toy should only have value if you are holding it which will help encourage him to bring it straight to you. Having the toy to a line is very effective in this context because, if you reel the toy in and he drops it, it will 'come alive' and keep moving along the ground - encouraging him engage his prey drive and chase the toy to pick it up again. Also when he keeps hold of it he will feel you pulling the line in and come in your direction for a game.
  9. Something I found really useful for working with toys as rewards was Susan Garrett's 1-2-3 game. Tie a piece of string or thin rope (depending on how strong your dog is ;) a few metres long to your tug toy. Place your dog in a sit-stay or drop-stay and throw the toy out a metre or so to start with. Count out 1-2-3 then 'Get it!' or similar - when your dog gets to the toy, run the other way so that he chases you with the toy in his gob then have a game of tug with him. The rope is there for early stages if he decides to entertain himself with the toy, you can reel him in Great for impulse control and showing that reinforcment happens with you, not elsewhere :) Also this skill becomes really important and useful for things like tunnel training, driving out of obstacles and 2x2 weave pole training :)
  10. Congrats RMR :) Good on you for getting out there and giving it a go - and it sounds like you did very well :)
  11. Similar to Kavik, at home I use the dry biscuits that would otherwise be the dog's dinner, as the distractions become greater i'll switch to a 'lucky dip' of cheese/fritz/kabana. The higher value stuff is useful too if you want to increase the challenge of a task i.e. 'its yer choice'. Also kept a bag of freeze dried liver treats in the tree near the toilet spot for toilet training which is handy because they're always there, never go off and they're a bit more exciting than biscuits.
  12. I've recently done a bit of a dog club crawl across SA. There's many different approaches...most are flexible enough in that, if you didn't want to use food that would be fine. Same goes for not wanting your dog taken from you. If you were thinking of joining a club I would do as you have been doing and 'tourist' as many as you like until you find one that is flexible enough to consider your training needs. I've heard also that Para district is good but have not visited...closer to the city there is CBS (canine behavioural school) at Trinity Gardens (more food focus but very flexible in their students training needs) and down south Dover Gardens is great (less food focused). Not a fan of the dog parks around here either, generally speaking. The other people offering other dogs treats stuff is just a doggy etiquette no no as far as im concerned, regardless of where it is. People should always ask first...
  13. I think a common problem with people who only believe in +R is that it shows a lack of understanding of how you can practically apply the other quadrants. I've not ever met any trainer that can only train a dog with +R, it just is not possible. Yes, but one needs only stretch as far as -P. When used correctly, it is just as effective as +P. These are two examples at the utter extreme corners of the operant conditioning quadrant and by and far not my way of thinking at all. I don't know what the point you're trying to make here is? If it is lack of understanding that you see as the problem then education and awareness is the solution. If you are frustrated by the argument, then I suggest it may be you that has become emotive in that setting. Don't assume what I do and don't know. I understand completely the operation of an e-collar. I've used them before - I have an educated opinion. Otherwise I would not have engaged in this debate. How is it a disservice to elevate the status of the dog?
  14. No, please, do elaborate. How is it that +R causes (or caused) physical scars? Please, I would like to hear of tangible examples where a check collar alone has saved a dog from euthanasia. No I guess they missed the memo - I guess they also missed the opportunity to be raised by an owner with a basic understanding of how canine behaviour works. Any methodology of training needs to be honed, yes. Inappropriate timing/reward placement etc can cause backward steps in +R training. But the onus is on the owner to seek appropriate instruction in relation to the application of the training. Also, the sentence highlighted in bold doesn't make sense.
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