Troy

Just send me a message with the topic title if you know it.   If it is no longer visible, it would probably have been deleted for some reason.

Yes all the listings have now been removed.

Thanks ... yes I am aware of it and am following up.

There is now a 'Remove Topic' button at the top of the topic when you view it.  This removes the topic from being displayed.  The button is shown only for the person who originally posted the topic.

The 'Past Rescues' forum will be eventually removed.

No topics expressing dismay at the latest dogs you saw in a pet shop or advertised in the paper or another web site.

Discussing it here will not make any difference to the ad or pet shop being in existence. Selling dogs in a petshop is still legal (as is advertising on web sites/ newspapers). If you believe there is a welfare issue, report the business to the appropriate authorities.

Posting only promotes them.

Check your email address is still valid. If the forum gets bounced emails from emails that are sent, it automatically turns off future email notifications for your membership.

Bump

You can start one in this forum if you like and I will then move it across. Access to create new topics was removed to stop people starting multiple topics for one breed.

These are questions you should be asking the breeder (actually you these are questions you should have asked the breeder before you parted with your money, but too late now!)

L2-HGA & HC are the two genetic conditions in Staffords with DNA tests. You should have got at the very least the certificates for both parents - if not, ask for them.

Distichiasis & PHPV are two eye conditions with no DNA test available. Both parents should have certificates showing they are clinically clear (have been examined and don't have these problems). If you didn't get copies of these, ask for them.

Dilute alopecia is the biggy with blues, just because they're blue (a dilute colour)

The first thing you need to consider is her pedigree. Is she from generations of blue-to-blue breeding? If so then you certainly increased your chances of her having issues for two reasons -

1) absolutely no one with any knowledge of Staffords or concern for the breed will breed blue to blue to blue, so what ELSE have they failed to consider before doing the mating and

2) because dilute alopecia obviously only affects dilutes (blues, blue fawns) if you pile dilute upon dilute in a pedigree you are increasing your chances of also getting the genes which ALSO cause dilute alopecia.

There's nothing you can do about dilute alopecia.

Generalised allergies are the next biggy with any Stafford and if you are dealing with a badly bred one (as in (1) above) (although it doesn't matter what colour you have) you are increasing the chances that the breeder hasn't bothered to exclude dogs with allergies from their breeding programme. Sadly some breeders who some may be considered "good" also don't exclude these dogs, but poor breeders are far more likely not to if you understand what I mean :)

There are a few things you can do about this, see below

The third biggy with any badly bred dog of any breed is the physical structure of the dog, just because it's a pure bred dog doesn't mean it is correctly constructed. The breed standard isn't just for show dogs!

With Staffords many badly bred ones are bred from parents with huge heads, straight shoulders, dippy toplines and straight stifles - all things which prevent the dog living a normal Stafford life and can lead to lameness, serious patella and hip issues and just a general lack of the ability to run and leap and do Stafford stuff.

There's not much you can do about this either.

Allergies can probably not be avoided completely IF your dog has a tendency to them.

A large part of allergies is related to the immune system, and a large part of the immune systems function is genetic.

But there are a few things you can do to reduce your odds of having major issues.

Minimal immunisation - this involves researching the local conditions and not just immunising for everything because the vet says so. Ensuring the dog is absolutely in the peak of condition when immunising can help.

Avoid unnecessary chemicals - don't use heartworm injections, use monthly chews if essential but research the actual risk in your area.

Don't use flea or worming preparations if you don't have actual proof they're needed - fecal floats, actual flea sitings for example.

Feed a variety of foods right from the start, there is a body of evidence to suggest that dogs (and people) can actually develop sensitivies to foods if that's all they get. Personally I would suggest a raw diet.

If the dog gets a rash or itch, don't rush off for the big guns from the vet (steroids, chemical washes, antibiotics are the favourites). If it's a small reaction, using the least amount of medication to make the dog comfortable and do all you can to get the dog's own system to react and overcome the problem. Barrier cream for a contact allergy, zinc based nappy cream works well, gentle calendula wash in place of chemical washes, things like this.

Of course you have to be sure to be monitoring the situation and making sure the dog is comfortable - I'm not suggesting ignoring a major infected outbreak!

Keep the dog lean and fit and mentally active (obedience, agility, fly ball, all good Stafford activities) will help.

I would suggest going back to the breeder and asking questions about the health of the parents, the parents' siblings, the grand parents and their siblings.

Make yourself a "map" of issues and if they don't have many in common you'll probably be fine, if one thing keeps cropping up then you'll have an idea of what you might be in for.

Above all - enjoy!

ETA: I would also avoid desexing your bitch until she is fully mature (1 year old at least), not only to avoid the stress of the operation but also to allow her body to develop and grow naturally. Yes some bitches do have skin issues when coming in heat, but who's to say this is less or more than she would have had if subjected to a major operation. Obviously you have to be able to keep her safe while in season :)

Above copied from another topic entitled 'Info Needed - Blue Stafford Health

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/Breed_Details.aspx?bid=198 )

Group: Group 7 (Non Sporting)

General Appearance: Small cobby active dog, with sharp foxy expression.

Characteristics: Intensely lively and alert.

Temperament: Amenable, intelligent and faithful.

Head And Skull: Skull not round, but fairly broad, flat, with little stop. Muzzle moderate in length, fine but not weak, well filled under eyes. Nose black and small.

Eyes: Dark brown, more oval than round, not full; bright, most expressive.

Ears: Moderate length, not too broad at base, tapering to a point. Carried stiffly erect and strong enough not to be bent otherwise than lengthways.

Mouth: Jaws strong, with perfect regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.

Neck: Strong and full, rather short, set broad on shoulders, slightly arched.

Forequarters: Shoulders muscular and sloping. Legs perfectly straight, well under the body, bone in proportion to the body.

Body: Chest broad and deep in brisket. Back short, straight and strong. Loins powerful, well drawn up from brisket.

Hindquarters: Lighter compared with forequarters but with muscular and well-developed thighs and well rounded rump. Legs strong, muscular, hocks well let down.

Feet: Small, cat-like, and standing well on the toes.

Tail: Previously customarily docked. May be born tailless or with partial length of full tail.

Docked: Very short

Naturally tailless: No discernible tail.

Undocked: Full length tail tightly curled, carried over the back, well covered with hair.

Fully coated partial length tail permissible but not desirable.

Gait/Movement: Short, brisk stride, moving true fore and aft.

Coat: Abundant, dense and harsh; smooth on head, ears and legs; lying close on back and side; erect and thick round neck, forming a mane and frill; with good culottes on the back of thighs.

Colour: Usually black but other whole colours permissible.

Sizes: Weight: about 5.5-7.5 kgs (12-16 lbs)

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

• Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  
• You do not have to answer all questions
  
• Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.
  

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NZ is still active but the UK one is basically dead in the water.

Yes that is correct. It will only ask for the numbers for 'in Group' and 'in Show' wins.

Unfortunately with a catalogue that contains multiple shows like you have, you will need to physically count the number of entries for the particular day. What is the name of the show where you do not have the total? (we may have it here).

http://www.showmanager.com.au

It is linked from our events diary where the event is still open for entries.

Glad you like it.

I would love to take credit for Show Manager but it is not our site. We are however working together as we feel our sites complement each other nicely.

It has been deleted.

It is annoying not knowing exactly who it is. Private registrations of domains shouldn't be permitted. The site is hosted in Australia.

For those wanting to know who is behind the website: Info is taken from ASIC site.

Puppy Republic ABN 66 342 468 143

Business Name Summary

Business name:Puppy RepublicStatus:RegisteredRegistration date:18/06/2013Renewal date:18/06/2016Cancelled date:Cancellation under review:Address for service of documents:Locked Box 40 487 Toorak Rd Toorak VIC 3142Principal place of business:Locked Box 40 487 Toorak Rd Toorak VIC 3142Holder(s) details:Holder Name:SAMSON ADAMSHolder Type:PersonABN:66 342 468 143Debtor representative(s):not applicableNotified successor(s):not applicableRegulator:Australian Securities and Investments CommissionFormer State/Territory registration detailsFormer identifier:Former State/Territory:

Can you confirm that the ABN number above was displayed on their web site? I want to make sure that this is the same people and not another business with the same name (and hence has nothing to do with the web site).

We have received reports of an email being sent to our users requesting their username and password for verification or their listing will be removed.

THIS IS A SCAM! We did not send this.

If you replied to the email with your access details, please immediately contact us at

[email protected] so that we can reset your password.

We will never request your access details via unsolicited emails.

Come to think of it?

WE know no puppy should be sold under 8 weeks old and

No puppy should be sold without its vaccination or microchip card and paperwork.

I cannont see anywhere on this site telling newbies if these three very important facts are not present in the pup they see, they should RUN, NOT WALK OFF THE PLACE IMMEDIATLY.

Maybe put it somewhere very prominant?

Would there be room on the Home page to fit it in the Looking for a Puppy section on the page?

With a nice big red

"WARNING READ THIS FIRST BEFORE GOING TO SEE ANY PUPPY

This applies for ANY puppy xbred or purebred"

With a click link listing what they need to ask to see before even looking at the pup and explaining why this is so important?

Yes, I am wanting to do this. I will be creating an article library and links will be prominent from various sections of the site (including the puppy buying page). 'Before you buy your puppy, read this etc.'

At the moment my site does not have a lot of information and I want to change this. I will wanting to give as much information as possible to visitors to help their decision. From breed information, benefits of health testing, ANKC activities they can do etc to give people good reasons to buy pure bred dogs and restore the image they deserve.

Troy, I believe it said that people who show or do other activities will be given "priority"?

You are still pushing that barrow ..... if I have said that, I apologise. Please point it out so I can amend it as that is not my intention.

http://www.dogzonline.com.au/puppy-ads.asp

I said recognition will be given to people who participate in ANKC activities.

I suppose it depends on the market DOL wants to attract, if its too complicated to understand ( sire, dam, health tests that no one knows what they mean in laymans terms) it makes purebred dogs too hard to understand and joe bloggs backs away. Surely the aim is to make pure bred dogs more accessable to the public to get them out there?

This is why I want the clubs to supply information to assist the buyer. What is each test, what is an 'acceptable' result and why the test is done. Give information to the average person that is easy to understand.

Same deal - there are plenty of internet sites to advertise on, and if this site becomes the province of only those who show every weekend, so be it. :)

You seem to keep banging that drum .... as I stated before, please show me where I stated that you need to show to be able to advertise on the site?

Thanks for the feedback so far.

I think however some people are blowing things way out of proportion and are thinking I am immediately going to remove everyone who doesn't show etc. There has also been ridiculous scaremongering comments on facebook that the ANKC need to be wary of Dogz Online as it has too much power and will soon start it's own registry and wipe the ANKC out of existence.

Please highlight in the proposal where I say if you do not show, you cannot advertise?

I do realise that the public needs to be able to easily buy pure bred puppies and this is one of the main reasons why I have resisted doing anything before now and never have had any restrictions on who could advertise. Despite constantly getting emails over the years complaining that I need to only allow 'show breeders etc' on the site, I have always known that these breeders do not always have a litter available (and what's more, this is no guarantee of a good breeder). If it comes to the point where DOL never has any puppies available for a breed, it does no-one any good long term. If visitors abandon the site, it will be no use when a 'show' breeder need to advertise a litter.

Comments saying I will contribute to wiping out pure bred dogs are again, just scaremongering. Over the thousands of breeders that are listed on the site, I would say there would only be a very, very small percentage that could possibly be removed.

As for leaving ourselves open to complaints, we already gets complaints daily so I can't see any change there. It doesn't mean we remove the breeder. We give more value to complaints from puppy buyers rather than other breeders as we want the puppy buyer to have a good experience. One complaint from a puppy buyer doesn't mean they will be removed either. If we get multiple complaints however then we know there is an issue.

My aim to to give as much information as possible to the puppy buyer so they can make an informed choice.

In the proposal, I say 'recognition' will be given to breeders who do some form of activity. Recognition could mean anything as basic as a symbol on the listing. This is for the benefit of the puppy buyer.

As for comments about us policing breeders and more regulations etc, we are not a regulatory body, we are an private advertising site and like most businesses, we have 'terms and conditions' for the use of that business. If people do not like what we have planned, they simply don't need to use our site. They can then still breed how they like and how many litters they like and there are multiple other places where they can easily advertise. We realise that we will lose some members.

I have taken on board the concerns about listing the sire and dam and will consider that further. The reason given of the owner of the sire not wanting the others know that the sire has been used doesn't seem to make sense though if the litter is going to be published in the journal eventually and they will find out anyway.

As for listing of health testing done, it will encourage breeders to do the appropriate testing and raise the standards for pure bred dogs overall. When buyers know that breeders are doing everything possible to ensure their puppy will be as healthy as possible, I see that as a good thing.

Putting a limit on the number of ads is also a good thing and gives more equitable use of our site to the breeders who breed one litter a year and a breeder who breeds 10 litter a year.