Dogsfevr

The trainer should have done it different when it was growling but no doubt it was a class,rush ,rush & push it the wrong way. Growling dogs shouldnt win but it needs to be addressed differently & to still get attacked really does show they arent that good.As said a good trainer doesnt get bitten so easily. As i pm i wouldnt do any of what is recommended ,you say you are getting results at home now why ruin it in one day,i would be seeking the help of a professional trainer who will educate you on how to handle & train a dog that has showen an issue. You are very lucky it has happened early you have some many avenues to rectify the issue but you must seek the help of the right people with the right knowledge. I agree with Miranda i now a vet that had a 16 yr old do puppy preschool classes & had never owned a dog.many use vet nurses & im sorry to say any form of dog traing should be done with someone experienced.it is just like school & teachers

When you house sit /foster what ever you need to ensure the routine stays the same.It sounds like something happened to your pup to create an issue that most likely nobody noticed,i wont say there learning from them but did they steal ;affis food,toys,treats,was Laffi made to feel threatened when eating by them?? but the issue now is the dog has done something. I will say though the trainer didnt handle the situation well at all,good trainers dont get bitten they now better & read body laguage & the signs to adjust a method to ensure the outcome is a positive one.When the trainer approached what did they do,what command did they give & what was the reward treat or did she just come up & grab expecting all to be hunky dory?? What actual signs did the dog show before bitting??? You do have a serious issue & one that most certainly can be dealt with if done correctly.Be patient but do the work but above all dont make a big deal over the food removing it needs to be done calmly,correctly so the pup understands it isnt in control & that taking food away isnt the end of the world Yep start with low value & work up but be consistant ,any food given needs to be done for a job for which you are in control

Daisey this isnt directed at you but it is also amazing with the elderly how many family now about the dogs & also wont help. We have kids drop there parents dogs off & tell its been like this for awhile etc etc & they havent even attempted to help. I now it can be hard but many people just dont plan there dogs grooming until its too late & when the dog comes in its so bad but the usual excuse it happened over night. I have 18 dogs,all high maintance & not one has knots plus i work full time I plan my time & make the ffort but its amazing how many cannot do 1 dog

We always feel the dogs whilst the owners are present .If there badly matted we give them the choice of a clippoff or they can go elsewhere. If the dog has sores we will still clip because atleast it benefits the dog .like you if there is a bad area we will trim it within reason & then tell them we will not clip the rest as it needs vet care. We always keep the hair & if need be will take photos. We still bath etc & then disinfect the bath,table,blades,scissors & anything else. Besides the fact a dog shouldnt get to that stage & in reality a groomers job shouldnt be to dematt dogs but to groom them(i consider dog grooming that of a hairdresser) it also ruins your blades & scissors doing dogs in such a bad state

Attach self water bowl to the tap & place up the wall.We get a few in boarding that do this & it started as a game now the owners regret it big time. I do have a giant metal bowl that comes with a lid that the setters use in my bedroom ,it is great.

We dont use any of them.We dont apply unnecessary products for no reason.We dont have fleas & our dogs arent treated so we wont apply/give a chemical just incase. For what the above costs it works out cheaper & more practical to just buy an all wormer from the supermarket(excelepet is perectly fine). If the dog actually has fleas them you can just buy the excelepet flea liquidator which clients with infested dogs found to work better. Which is better ??Your vet will say there one as they get comission & as would the RSPCA. Did the reeder suggest one to use as some of the products have had reactions with some breeds

It doesnt affect australia

I think what you need to understand that making a dog sleep outside doesnt make training any easier or lesser a problem.having a yard to roam around at night & toilet when it feels like means very little to the dog compared to its family companianship & getting excited about its morning routine. If you want to have a sleep in the dog doesnt understand that,as far as its concerned every morning means a walk rain,hail or shine but above all the dog nows when the sun starts rising its getting closer to its people time. You want your sleep the dog just wants its owners & special time. What time do you place it out at night?? When is its last feed???? What is its nightly routine????? How do you place it out???? Everytime it barks in the morning what do you do/what have you done?????

Dogs are creatures of habit & very routine but often people stick to such a schedule that the dog pre emps everything.They now when its feed time,walk time,there time etc etc. I dare say for this girl the highlight of her morning is seeing you ,then gets her walk ,feed .Every day . How long has she been outside permantly ???

Generally pups fly very well .I would most certainly take a wet flannel & towel just incase an accidient has aoccured.If the pup has messed itself & is dirty then most defiantely wash it. For me i would just drive home but if you feel the need to walk aften at the airport there are areas more away from frieght(where the dogs walk) to take it,remember it most likely wont be lead trained . Dont go over the top when you pick the pup up be very calm & react quietly but with confidience & when you get pup home do the same.Take pup outside & walk around calmly & again with confidience in your voice tone the pup will be looking for the people to trust & the quicker they trust the quicker they ajust & settle over do it & the up can retreat.So many people drag pup out the crate & go over the top & it is just all too much for the pup .If its a little fazed it will bounce back quickly but your reactions can most certainly make it more stressful

I now of many dogs who have required emergency surgery to remove bone build up & the advice isnt total rubbish . It is more common than people wish to accept & many people have ended up with mega vet bills to fix the build up . Some may say the vets advice is poor but the vets i now arent food police but deal with the surgery some of the diets can cause each week so it isnt something i w ould ignore

Everyone doesnt need to meet your pup staright away & its very easy to say No. The first few weeks are crucial for your pup & your current dog that has greeting issues & you need to see what happpens with the 2 before the home is open besides that you pup also needs to to adapt to a giant breed that it doesnt now & isnt the same breed . people can wait to see a pup but the wrong intro for the first week or more may mean a life time problem. You also need to remember if everyone is around greeting the pup then the berner is being left out & that can create jealousy issues.

Friends used this product & there dogs went deranged within 20 mins.

personally i would never allow any of my dogs to play/meet a dog that is constantly aggressive. You will either end up with a pup thats submissive & fearful of dogs or a pup that decides he will respond & be aggressive too. I would be backing of & ensuring your pup meets freindly/good experience dogs

My opinion for the first week have no visitors.Allow the 2 dogs to get to no each other before people start to come especially if the Berner performs. Personally i believe pups need to make the first move withinn reason & people need to react in a calm fashion & with a giant breed thats one thing i would stress to friends you now drop around alot that you want the saints greeting to be very productive but not over the top,you dont want them hyping the dog up as it isnt fun at 50 kg. teaching it to sit is a good thing but it isnt going to happen straight away so its important it gets to great in a civilized way & if pup sits on its own praise

I would be asking what exactly are they x raying for?? I would ask what the $500 exactly covers. I would be talking to the breeder & asking what vet they suggest. We always use either Bowen or a chiro for an injury before doing the vet unless its obvious its a break. Knowing what danes are like when we board them i would say hes just sore more than anything & needs to to rest

I would treat his feet for Tinea or wash in white vinegar.Often the yeast problem can be in the feet & the dog scratches its ears & rubs its face & spreads the problem or vice versa. You could rub natural yoghurt on the ear area.

Beef is the worse for allergies & surprised the vet didnt tell you try an alternative meat. Roo is good for dogs with allergies but like anything some dogs can react . What did your breeder suggest when you got the pup??

I agree generally when sibes come in for the works its because there coat is so bad that the owners have given up or not touched it. Whilst we get alot of the hair out the bathing & drying stimulates the shedding & its then up to the owners to work hard on the coat to ensure the coat doesnt get to being so built up. Sibes is a weekly maintance & if you dont brush out weekly & you leave it then there is no way a groomer will be able to do a few months of dead coat in one groom. We do a few sibes that often come in with 4 months plus of dead coat & to e honest the $60 doesnt make up for all the hair you have to clean up & retrieve for the next week. The groomers do the hard work & people expect a miracle in one groom it doesnt work that way ,if you dont want hair then start doing more with the coat

I know of far too many dogs that had to have surgery for sock eating ,whilst it is cute socks can be a dreaded curse when the dogs eat them & generally by the time owners realize its a very serious medical issue.

As a groomer & schnauzer breeder i suggest you get the dog groomed professionally before you start clipping.Then clip the dog regurlary whilst you have an outline. The most important part with groooming is unless your going to do the whole package(nails,plucking ears) then your better to get it done. Schnauzers arent easy to master & a DVD depending on who has done it could be teaching you how to trim a mini wrong. Contact the schnauzer club or your breeder who will be able to get grooming charts for you. For a schnauzer you will need a #7,#10 or #15,#40 for ears plus your ear pluckers.. I agree with schmoo we also see the worst in home trained dogs so if your dog isnt great with grooming then think twice as it can be dangerous for dog & clippers if inexperienced. Malsam what do you mean by study the after effects & failed in the technique part?? I hope your study encomapsses the poor condidtion most dogs come in & the fact groomers have to do the dirty,painful work that makes grooming a displeasurable experience for some dogs

Its time to be a good owner & not pander to what the dog wants. The dog wont starve but its training you & you have given in & trained it to the worst habit hand feeding. The problem will not improve on the current method but will get worse. His food comes out of the bowl ,no treats no nothing by hand,NO ONE feeds it scrapes or anything bad until the dog nows where his food comes from . Leave the food down for 15 mins pick up & give latter & do so each day. Pick a diet & stick with it,your pup may also be teething badly which can affect the eating so ensure the biscuits are soaked. Do you feed dry only??It sounds like you need to give other permant alternatives like roo meat,mutton mince,tuna/sardines etc even try some pal puppy pink label. The biggest problem is you at present if this was a child you wouldnt hand feed it for 2 hrs the dog is no different also make sure its exercisng,you could also get some nutrigel from the vet

Flyball has never taken off in perth & the fact most obedience clubs dont teach/train this may be the reason. I own aa fly ball box(old style) & trained the dogs way back then but it seemed when someone got its tarted some other person would get huffy & take over & then it would cease again. I would approach you clubs & ask them,it is big in melbourne & i have a few friends with fly ball titled dogs

Duck is richer than roo. Roo is the most commonly suggested meat to use on allergy dogs. You can either buy pet mince roo at all supermarkets or human mince roo. Its up too you but if you feel the royal canin could be a factor i would cut that out asap .Personnally i would never feed beef as it causes so many issues . The pinkness is generally saliva stains from the licking which then leads to moist skin & problems multiply. You can bath the dog in white vinegar in the water as that helps with bacteria,tinea type stuff.Some of the vet only shampoos do nothing . I would do a diet change,cut out any unneeded treats(schmackos etc) for a month & see what happens. Make sure you do a plant/grass check so if there are any problem areas there you now but i think you will find its diet. We actually get people who board there dogs with us to see if there symptons stop & in many basic cases yes as there not getting the home diet,treats & exposure to certain garden issues. The clients have found it easier to do it this way & cheaper .Some vets charge $1000 plus for so called allergery issues & dont give any real help to problems except meds. Flaxseed supplements are good,fish added to the diet (tuna,sardines) try natural alternatives & the breeders advice The other thing ofcourse is dont over do the diet so many people go over the top & forget the good simple basics. The other thing ofcourse is many pander to what the dog wants to eat not stick to what the dog should eat. I say this in respnse to your other post.The dogs tied to the fence get feed the baiscs & no unndeeded treates etc & dont get allergies because there owners arent giving them allergery foods. Pig ears,schmackos etc etc can be allergery causes plus any other table scraps etc dogs are given. When all the unwanted things are given the dog end up with the runs from too much food & stuff its stomach cant handle. Some of the flea stuff can react with dogs

Necer hold a puppies muzzle .They are teething,have sore chums & often swallon gums & holding the muzzle like that will note succeed in anything but pain for the pup & getting head shy. The simple fact is you need to assert yourself,dogs do it because its allowed.It ether starts because everyone isnt consistant,the game being played results in the pup being in control or its encourage to do something but the end result isnt what the humans want. Nothing works because at present the dog has no respect for your commands or voice tone.He is still a baby & trying the waters but you need to start being the leader & being in charge . Commands should be swift & with a distinct voice tone which changes from praise to discipline. In all the years we have never done the yelping growling etc etc in our house No means No plain & simple .