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Dogsfevr

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Everything posted by Dogsfevr

  1. Now is the most crucial training time for grooming. Grooming should never be done on the floor or your knee.The best place is a table or on the washing machine/similiar with a non slip mat placed down. At this age the more you practise the better they except it when the coat does start to grow,many make the mistake thinking theres no hair at present so they dont do anything then suddenly at 10 months they have dog thats a pain to groom. You need to teach the pup to stand,it will wriggle at first but be very patient,consistant but above all you are the one in charge.If you have someone to help just ask them to hold the pups head whilst you brush the body telling it to stand,left each leg up & brush thoroughly & brush the hair upwards not downwards.Check between the toes & always comb between the toes.When brushing the tail & someone is helping get them to support the tummy whilst you lift the tail up & brush,most cavies hate this are being brushed as there not trained early enough.Ideally wonce the pup has the idea it should be able to be brushed on its own with the occasional assistance if need be. Its important not to have running converstaion,use very set words "stand" "stay"good ****.Also make sure you wipe the dogs eyes even if not mucky,teaching all these things early make life great latter on. Dont brush whilst the dog is asleep or very hungry,pick a time where the pup is worn out but still alret to learning The tools a very gentle slicker brush(cat ones are best ) & a comb combo style fine one end,fuller the other. You can buy a lice comb form the chemist & do his top coat with this weekly to help remove the crappy coat & to get a nice top coat. The key is to put the time in now & dont have the attitude my dog wont do it,your dog will do anything you want if you train it to do it.
  2. Daily maintance.Any of the breeds with folded areas need to have those areas cleaned regulary which many people never do. Use a face wash & wipe the area each day especially when its hot & humid those ares just fester bugs
  3. Yes more stones can develop after the surgery but the fact is the surgery releives the problem either permantly or with a second go. Also make sure the diet is suitable & often a diet change is the way to go. You can use the premiun vet range but one of our clients had no more success with the cans than the normal diet so she made her own diet partially based on the human suggestions for similiar problem & the dog since surgery & this diet has blossomed in all ways
  4. The most crucial time for toilet training a pup is when it comes home,if you want a house trained dog then it needs to be trained in the house.Whilst some dogs can learn both dont expect the pup in say 2 yrs time to come in the house & be clean if its been an outside dog. Personnally for me i couldnt have the dog in winter sitting inside with me & then when im ready to go to bed turf it outside in the cold when its been in the warmth. I agree people spend a great deal outside but when its 40 there inside & when its peeing down with rain or freezing there not outside but the dog still is
  5. It does sound alot but like all things with teeth different scenarios mean different prices. Lately the teeth area has grown in price some totally over the top to a reasonable prices.
  6. He is doing what a pup/dog should do the only difference is you have to train to allow what things should be encouraged & what shouldnt be. You have had him for one week it will take up to 12 months to fully understand what is expected. Not often you come across a vocal BB .The breed thrives on human time & just plough in like a Clydesdale. Your feed issues is merely training ,if its a problem place puppy outside prepare the food & bring him in so he can learn to sit/wait calmly,once he understands what "words"mean & what he is expected to do he will start to do the right things. At present you are his new litter mates,he has come from a world of eat,sleep & play now all new owners expect a new criteria which is good ownership but pups need tool to learn & above all all family members need to apply the same rules & skills. When it comes to play issues its noramlly a case of owners rosuing the dog up but when it no longer fun the humans want it to stop asap but pup hasnt finished. You need to pick your keys words & you must be consistant
  7. Male poms can be very fiesty blitters & i wouldnt have brought 2 males but its already done. Poms whilst being a toy breed & cute & fluffy still need to be treated like any other dog.Spoiling them (the biggest problem with this breed is people try to create little humans & creat monsters) spending 5 hrs a day means nothing if that time is spnet creating bad habits. If they where brought from reg breeders i would suggest you from the breeder up & ask there advice. My friends breed/exhibit poms & i have handled them for many years & a fiesty pom is a rotti in a little body & it sounds like you need help understanding each dogs nature.
  8. Okay im going to get flamed but your reserach would have told you GR thrive on human compainship & being a gundog breed they work with there masters for long hours.They are a breed that luvs to please there owners,there not recommend for being outside 24/7 to amuse them selves Unfortunatley the behaviour will not change unless big changes are made in the way the dog interacts with the family,she is only 1 now she has 14 yrs to go & if she continues on this path you need to ask yourself what will be the dogs future in 2-3 yrs?? It isnt her fault she acting this way,she has obviously got to the point where she craves the attention of being told off,amny dogs will act out as they get more human time for the bad behaviour than when there good.
  9. Okay if it was my dog i would be trying Bowen on her or even a good dog chiro to ensure that due to the hard recovery she hasnt put her back,kneck out which can cause great discomfort. If there was nothing wrong in that field then i would weigh up the options,i can tell you that the pnuemia truley takes its toll on dogs ,i had a dog that suffered that a few years back & his health crashed dramatically,he passed away last month.
  10. Why do you insist he follow you??Continue to have some play time on his own outside??why isnt he allowed just to free roam the backyard?? I agree it sounds like the dog isnt aloud to be a dog nor a puppy & your expecting all awful considering it sounds like he isnt allowed to be a dog & play etc. Do you have asecurely fenced backyard??
  11. "Grabbing the collar region & holding the kneck down" "Push away under the kneck across the shoulders & hold back" The 2 things i would never do nor do any trainers i now recommend this but as you say each to there own
  12. Conmurra has been brought by a WA company .
  13. calliech i totally disagree .We feed all ours seperate,we are the pack leaders,they now where they fit in the ranks but we feed seperate.I believe if a inexperienced owner wants safe advic then feeding sepearte is fair more responsable than letting to powerful dogs go for it. All our dogs share treats but the fact remainst feed time they all get there own bowls & are all feed & the job is done safely,easily with no stress .
  14. i would suggest you just go by what your breeder says.IWe sell the tools with our pups but some still insist on going out & buying useless items with no idea what they where designed for prior to purchase plus many buy things from places that havent a clue. Generally for a well maintained long coat all you need is a good comb,quality brush(coat specific) & a good soft slicker.If its a shedding breed then a shedding rake can come in handy but even with the sibes etc a comb will just as good a job providing it is maitained prior to the big shed. As already said on of those is a dematting rake used for severe matting,used on a good coat in can thin out an area but also damage the coat. The idea with a sammie & similiar is to brush in sections . For any sammie we groom we use an undercoat rake to get the bulk,then a comb & slicker.
  15. Cabbage is a gasy food & not something i would feed. I have feed my dogs on raised bowls for over 20 years,the simple fact with bloat is if its going to happen it will happen
  16. I dont get the to much freedom with pee time??Isnt the dog allowed to play in the back yard on his own ??Is he always on leash when out there?? A dog of his age should be happily playing outside unattended unless there is some good reason why,if the dog isnt allowed to do so you will have a man made monster . My dogs have there set time zoomies each day & we just leave them alone,when all stops they venture back inside. You have a gundog & a breed that thrives on companianship & retrieving a bored one is a naughty one & if it isnt getting adequate natural playtime & develpment activities on its own in its own world the humans will become its play too whether it be unacceptable play or good play
  17. I would say what you are feeding wont put weight on & sounds more like a gourmet dinner that dogs dinner. It doesnt sound very Barf to me maybe some of the die hard Barf feeders can assist
  18. Yep all our dogs are feed seperate here.We dont allow a situation to occur,make sure you keep up with the taking food away (humans) but simply put all house members must learn from day one food time is serious time & if you have visitors etc ensure that the dogs are never placed in a situatuion that can get out of hand. If your able to purchase 2 large crates you can make feedtime/bone time a crate thing where everyone is safley placed away to enjoy there meal/treat. The crates even latter on will be a great tool for safe time etc etc especially with 2 competitive big dogs
  19. When it comes to dryers we have a few ,1 for the setters coats(some are just to powerful & i fined they dry the coats to quickly & leave them hard looking plus the extreme power is a nightmare & tangles so i prefer a nice moderate dryer that gives me the finishing touches)>for grooming & other coats we have the oldfield cyclinder which removes dead coats etc & the power is what you want then
  20. Dogsfevr

    The Flu

    Contact the vet & make an appointment but make sure you tell them what the dog is doing & dont go into the waiting room until asked .If it is canine cough/flu it is highly contagious but anything like that is a vet job
  21. Word of warning though make sure you have something in wriitting that the dog is being babysat & you are the owners. There is another dog issue at present where someone left pets with a neighbour & they refuse to return the dog,they have nothing in writting & paid no monies towards food,general bits & pieces,there is nothing to prove either sides stories,one claims they didnt want the pets the others say they offered to babysit. All you is a simple note with pick dates,money to cover expenses & even leave a note with your vet that the dog is being looked after Blah Blah till said date & any issues they have your authority to treat whatever. Even in boarding kennels you sign a simple agreement so everyone knows where they stand . Also have a folder made up of current photo,microchip details,ID marks so if the dog gets lost the owners have the stuff to find them but make sure its copies & clearly write over them something like'Copies for babysitter during the dates of * *" & you keep a copy aswell
  22. Ultimate pup oh so wrong infact the boarding associations have very indepth meetings with the manufactures & there head honchos yearly & this year the 3 yearly was the topic & infact you learn a whole lot more from the horses mouth. Titre tests do not prove anything except at the time the tests where high,next week they can be low. All kennels are very aware of vaccs & the views of some people but until there is legal guarantess to the claims of titres,vacc & all other stuff vacations are the safe guard for liability.When you work in this industry & have to pay out insurance etc etc you can critize all you want. I now off a kennel that accepts homopathic/titre & they have had more outbreaks than kennels that accept yearly vaccs
  23. Have used c5 for over 20 plus years on many many dogs with no issues. We run boarding kennels & yes it is a requirement that all clients have C5 plus is a code of ethics of CABA membership
  24. Agree with cosmolo & i would aslo seek the advice of an experienced breeder/worker & if possible look for a breeder that does the fields your after
  25. When it comes to grooming a table is well worth the investment considering it kills your back gropping on the ground & it takes twice aslong. Whilst grooming should be enjoyable it shouldnt be a bribery game or something that takes forever to achieve nothing. Grooming does often require the tough love approach. I would scrap the schmackos,the dog is being rewarded for doing nothing. Providing the tools are correct & you can ask the breeder unless they told you which to buy,also ask the best method to use them & how they would deal with grooming. Many people over man handle,have a running conversation with the dog & use food,toys etc all things that dont need to be done. Certainly use a treat for good manners on the table & teaching it table acceptance but only use the treat when you do non brushing table exercise ,ie getting on,standing nicely & then straight off,dont brush when treating. When you do brush be firm & confidient,tell the dog its "key "words,(stand,stay) ,brush with a plan before you start & stick with it.Dogs that dont like brushing is either due to not being done enough,having too many knots that it hurts or just being totally confused as to whats expected & the handling by the humans. The grooming table is nuetral ground .
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