animalia

I worked in the kennel industry for many years and have had to deal with canine cough many times through this time. The severity can depend on the type of strain of cough the dog has ( there are viral and bacterial forms) also it depends on if the dog gets a Secondary infection ( that's when the vet needs to be called). Some dogs are carriers, some don't get that sick when they have it and others get really sick, it's probably due to either environmental issues that cause physiological changes e.g. Stress, if the dog has had a c5 vaccination and the strength of the dogs immunity. My heeler without fail will always get cough because she is a stress head whereas my Irish wolfhound x never got it even when she was directly exposed to it. I would agree with your vet that the dogs that have gone to a new home and shown signs of canine cough that stress would be why it has shown up whereas before they were just carrying it, however dogs usually only carry it for I think 1 week to 2 weeks before presenting with signs. The type of cough was most likely very mild and the dogs that had some sort of immune deficiency were the ones that presented with signs ( stressed dogs), unlike your own personal dogs that were under no stress and relaxed at home, they also most likely have some sort of immunity to cough and could carry the disease in their upper respiratory system. It has no effect to the dogs immune system long term as far as I know. Some of the dogs that boarded at the kennels would show no signs of cough whilst in our care but two days after leaving the kennels would present with signs because it was the whole excitement of being at home and winding down after a tiring stay at the kennels. Remember canine cough is very contagious and when a dog presents with signs in your home the germs will go everywhere like on your walls, on you, furniture etc so you need to thoroughly disinfect your home. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong about anything.

The karingal vet has a DIY outside their practice that's open I think 24/7, they're on cranbourne-frankston rd, frankston.

I think you need a 10f, 30f, or a 40f blade under the combs. The combs will give you a longer clip but you will need one of these blades under the comb.

I have witnessed old school training at it's worst! I used to work for a guy, not at a training club but another type of establishment that still believed that if the dog didn't do what he asked it to do he would with no hesitation thump it either with fists or kicking it or if the dog was doing something he didn't like e.g barking he would also thump it. Needless to say I didn't work there long!

I would recommend seaford vet especially doctor Ross (he can be a little straight forward, but who cares as he's a great vet) he is the owner I think of this practice and carrum downs. When my old dog was diagnosed with cancer he gave me free medication, they are there for the animals not to sell you things and test your animal for everything under the sun. I don't go anywhere else. ;) ;) ;) ;)

It could be a behavioral problem, maybe? I knew a dog once that would get into an anxious state and start licking the floors and because he felt sick from licking up all the dirt and fibers from the floor he would feel sick and he would vomit. Maybe plug a DAP unit in your house or consult a professional. I just thought I would put the behavioral side out there

Hi everyone, A friend of mine wants to start a mobile dog grooming business and she is looking to buy a dog trailer. She has looked in the trading post and eBay but most of them on there are old and she's more interested in the fiberglass trailers, but doesn't want to spend a huge amount. Is anyone selling a mobile dog trailer or know where to look for one? Any suggestions would be great! Thanks

I have used the DAP plug in before with great results. I had recently taken on my sisters heeler that was aggressive and anxious due to critical period issues (had no socialization what so ever), no exercise and no rules. I had bought some DAP for my work but ended up using it at home, plugged it in and forgot about it, (by this time the heeler had been with me for around 4 months). I had noticed after about a week that the heeler was a lot more relaxed and not so aggressive, she had also bonded with us a lot more. I didn't know why this had all of a sudden happened until I remembered about the DAP. It didn't fix her 100% as it was critical period issues but with exercise and training she's about 95% better. I also only needed 1 bottle of the DAP as the relaxed behaviors she learnt with the DAP have stuck around without the DAP. Hope this helps!

Hi Everyone, I was just wanting to know if anyone is interested in buying some of my lenses, the reason why I am selling them is that I have no time to use them. The lenses are- 1. AF ZOOM-NIKKOR 80-200mm f/2.8D ED - PRICE $850 2. AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED- PRICE $750 3. AF DX Fisheye-Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8G ED - PRICE $550 The Zoom and the micro both have hoya uv filters, all 3 have their manuals and the Zoom has a case . These lenses have only been used once or twice. PM me with any offers. THANKS everyone and I hope you all have had a great day

That was a really nice way to show how much you love him!

I have never taken one of my pets to the vet just for a basic health check, the only reason they will go is if they are unwell. My 16yo see's the vet now maybe every 2 months for medication renewal (for cancer) but before that she went to the vet yearly for her vaccine and that's it.

before I what it, what's it about? is it good or bad?

I have a 3 year old female ACD and ever since she was about a year old she had learned to be aggressive through fear. If she is pushed to a point and there are no other means of getting out of a situation she will lunge, bite and hang on, she even got to the point where her mentally was "I'll get you before you get me". She was VERY territorial of her belongings and would attack anything that went near them, including me. When I got her she was set in her ways, BUT giving her a lot of exercise, training, and socialising her to the world really helped, and also getting her to the point that she trusts me to deal with the situation at hand so she doesn't have to react. She's by no means perfect and she will never get to perfection as she had poor socialisation in her critical period, at the moment I'm dealing with her being territorial, she's no way near as bad as what she was, women and kids can walk by her things and come in to the house BUT no unfamiliar men, she HATES tradesman. I recently put one of the DAP bottles in my lounge room (which can be closed of to the rest of the house) and have found that Penny (the ACD) is a lot more calm, she's not always on patrol and can sit and relax.

I loved reading this story, YEY!We need to follow in their foot steps

From memory when I went to TAFE Urolithiasis was described as- Aggregation of crystalline along the urinary tract that can cause inflammation and or blockage of the urinary tract. Males are more prone to blockage due to the greater length and smaller diameter of the urethra. Struvite uroliths is when crystals form stones. Carnivores eating high protein diets produce acid which results in acid urine. Below a pH of 6.6 struvite remains in solution, if the urinary pH rises above 7.1 crystallisation may occur. A major nutritional factor in the development of urolithiasis is the injestion of a diet which results in alkaline urine Clinical signs -Anorexia -weight loss -depression -hunched posture -no urine or haematuria (blood in urine) -frequent attempts at urination The aim of dietary management in struvite associated Urolithiasis is to: - -to produce a high urine output - this is achieved by feeding a high moisture content diet -have a low magnesium level in diet -produce urine which is acid Treatment -surgical removal of stone -treatment of infection Hope this helps!

I have confirmed today that some of employees have sent in letters as well!

I always stay firm to the belief that any breed with a responsible and fully committed owner will turn out great. Here's a copy of my person specific legislation I once posted, AND I do want everyone to remember it DOES have room for change in the wording etc. Here it is (it's pretty harsh)- When I was reading a recent post that listed the breeds of dogs that have been banned in both state law and local councils to prevent (i am assuming) dog attacks/aggression and make their state/council a safer place I thought I might give them a hand and revise the current BSL, I know that mine WILL stop attacks/ aggressive behaviour from ALL breeds of dogs not just those who have been condemned. My List I might warn doesn't include ANY of the current breeds or characteristic that a dog has to have to be registered as a restricted breed, some might think that my list is a bit radical. There is only one breed covered in this list. Here it is - The Revised version- Restricted breeds of HUMANS in relation to the welfare of dogs and those in the community- 1. Those who sell dogs PURELY for profit 2. Those who sell dogs without educating the prospective buyer in regards to the breed 3. Those who sell breeds of dogs to people who don't meet that particular breeds all round requirements, e.g. exercise requirements, training 4. Those who sell dogs that are in poor condition 5. Those who sell dogs that have come from a puppy farm 6. Businesses who hire staff for their sales knowledge NOT for their knowledge of dogs 7. Breeders who ONLY breed for the all mighty dollar 8. Breeders who sell puppies without educating the prospective buyer in regards to the breed 9. Breeders who breed dogs with compromised temperaments 10. Breeders who breed dogs with health/hereditary problems 11. Breeders who don't know that much about dogs or appropriate breeding practices, but still breed 12. Breeders who breed only for "looks" and not temperament 13. Breeders who don't screen prospective buyers to see if they suit the breed 14. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs, and breed them PURELY for profit 15. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and keep them crated the whole of their life 16. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and breed female dogs every season starting with their first season 17. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and don't socialise the puppies whilst in their care 18. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and don't temperament check breeding dogs 19. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and don't health check their breeding dogs 20. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and educate prospective buyers 21. Establishments that have tens/hundreds of breeding pairs of dogs and don't screen prospective buyers 22. Dog owners that didn't do any research into what breed would suit their life style (ignorance is no excuse) 23. Dog owners who don't socialise their puppies in their critical period and on wards 24. Dog owners who want to fulfill their ego and buy a "TUFF" breed of dog 25. Dog owners who buy from irresponsible pet shops 26. Dog owners who buy from irresponsible breeders 27. Dog owners who buy from irresponsible establishments 28. Dog owners who don't train their dogs either in obedience and or manners 29. Dog owners who put other people and animals in danger through irresponsible actions E.g letting their unsocialised dog off lead in public 30. The media for spouting a whole lot of crap about dogs and individual breeds 31. CEOs of large welfare organisations (no names) condemning breeds and putting fear into the public 32. Local councils and state law focusing on condemning breeds of dogs and not condemning those who are FULLY responsible- People who fit into one or more of the above categories EDUCATION IS THE KEY - KNOWLEDGE IS POWER = Less uneducated dog owners All of the above will help produce healthy, happy, stable dogs that are well looked after (mentally and physically) through the breeding, the selling and owning stages of its life. Remember that genes, socialisation starting when the dog is just weeks old and having owners that exercise and train the dog are extremely important. I don't know where you could go wrong if these areas are done right with any breed? What does everyone think? will the above BSL sort everything out or not? If you wish you can make additions or take something out. I do want to make it clear I support breeders, pet shops, councils, and people in general who are responsible and are in it for the dogs.

BUMP

Just reminding everyone to put their letters in, we haven't won the fight yet!

So from what I can gather is that it is better to use manual rather than auto unless say you are photographing something moving fast. I took my heeler to the beach the other day for a photo opportunity and I found it hard to use the manual settings because she would move around a lot OR if I made her sit or drop she would creep up to me, so I didn't really have time to organise everything camera wise. Also it was a bit over cast that day and I didn't have a tri-pod and my shutter speed was slower so I found that some of pictures weren't as sharp as they should be. I guess practice makes perfect. :rolleyes: P.S Tess32 i had a look at your gallery, your photos are amazing! where do you to take all of the wild animal photographs, the zoo or do you travel?

POOR DOGS I think your council needs to start educating some people on how to be a responsible dog owner

Kirst_Goldens I think if everyone went in with the mind set that we CAN save every animal no matter what age, breed or temperament we could do just that, save them. I don't think that there was anything wrong with what you did in persuading the owner to re-home the dog instead of PTS, it was not un-professional and I would do the exact same thing, he needs a chance. I would not advise in a shelter though as it would add stress that an old dog does not need. Teaching an old dog to be house trained is NOT that hard as I have recently done that with a 12 YO CHI X JRT that was dumped and she also had aggression which I have also dealt with, it's amazing what you can achieve when you have a "can-do" attitude. The ONLY reason I would suggest for the dog to be PTS is quality of life, if he's not that healthy, (which I don't think is the case from what I have read) I would say Putting him to sleep would be best for him. Keep fighting for the dogs Kirst_Goldens! P.S what colour is he? light golden?

Hi Guys, ;) I was just wondering what setting do you all use on your cameras manual or auto? ;)

My heeler Penny I think is used to me forgetting her at work . Once I got all the way home (40 mins away from where I work) and realised she wasn't in my car, I had to drive all the way back to my work and and get her, she wasn't impressed

Clicking mad I love your first shot the best but I also love the others as well