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Posts posted by Scratch

  1. A few breeds that people often overlook in a search for,the type of dog you’re looking for. 

    Lowchen. They’re on the larger side of small and really sturdy and have fabulous temperament. 
    Bedlington Terrier  Dont let the breed  profile trim put you off, they can look completely adorable in an all over teddy style clip or just clipped off short without any floof. (Same for Lowchen above, most pet owners just keep them in a short all over clip, not the ‘lion’ style) also a fairly mild terrier temperament. 

    oh and the Bichon Frise. One of the most delightful and affable temperaments out there. 

  2. 18 minutes ago, juice said:

    Really , he got burnt and you didn’t take him to a vet ! Take him now . 

    I bet if it was them or one of their kids they’d be off to the doctor or at least the chemist, for some pain relief and treatment in a flash. 
    but the pets just gotta suck it up for some reason. :banghead:

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  3. 31 minutes ago, s.bale23 said:

    Hi, if professional trainers are too expensive, is there any other choice? 

    It would be infinitely ‘more expensive’ to deal with a dog that has escalated  to an actual bite.....

    but, at least perhaps seek the assistance of your dogs breeder. Also see if there is a German Shepherd Dog club in your state where you may find some valuable advice. Also, as I mentioned previously, look into doing herding with your dog. You will find info about herding training on your states ANKC affiliated website, such as Dog Vic,  Dogs SA  etc. It may sound counterproductive to train behaviours that don’t seem desirable, but in doing so, yourself and your dog become more in control of those behaviours, as well as it being excellent mental and physical stimulation and exercise for the dog. A lot of German Shepherds compete in herding, because they’re naturals at it! 

    At the very least, see if there is a basic dog obedience club in your area and call them. Training may not be on right now because of Covid19, but phone or email contact may prompt some help and suggestions.

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  4. It might be ‘leash aggression’ to some degree, but a large factor is probably also her breed. German ShepHERD.  They are a herding breed. They have strong instincts & natural drives to move, push, steer and round up usually livestock, but in the absence of livestock, many will find other things to push, steer, round up etc. And as with many dogs used for herding (such as Border Collies & Kelpies) , movement is a big trigger for their instincts. 

    It’s definitely time to seek professional help, because although your dog hasn’t bitten anyone just yet, the more they practice the behaviour, the better and bolder they get at it, and it may only be a matter of time, and maturity, before you have a dog that has bitten someone. Have your dog assessed by a professional (I’m sure you’ll get some great recommendations here). Also, it may be worth looking at do herding with your dog. What I mean by herding, is the organised sport of herding, where experienced people can guide you and your dog through learning to use, and moreover, control, your dogs natural drives. 


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  5. Also if info is correct, there is one flight out of Adelaide to Melbourne on sat afternoon. Might be worth a call to the airline &  or a pet carrier service to see if there any chance. 

    ok Jetstar and virgin are flying Adelaide to Melbourne but only virgin carry pets I think. They have flights looks like Wednesday Friday Monday but not on the weekend. 

    it would be worth finding out what the status of pet freight is atm. 

  6. There’s a puppy available in Adelaide?!! lol joking. I’ve been trying to find a suitable pup or dog for months and months and this virus thing has all but cut off interstate options. 

    Dog movers runs a road transport out of Adelaide to Melbourne on Sundays I think? I don’t know how their operations are impacted by the virus but might be worth call or a look around their website

  7. Not all food for dogs comes in packets and tins

    see if your puppy will enjoy some fresh food like chicken mince, boiled egg, even see if he wants to munch on a meaty bone. A lot of dogs show a stronger interest in fresh foods. Think outside the packet and try it out. 
    munching on meaty bones can help the puppy develop good muscles tone in the jaw, neck, shoulders, back & hind quarters. A whole body workout! it can also help them settle in place for a while and have a good chew. 

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  8. On 20/04/2020 at 5:13 PM, Snook said:

    I'm just stressed that he'll regress badly with his willingness to let me do them if I bugger it up somehow. I don't know if you remember but the first time you had a go at his nails up at Mannum, he'd been getting sedated to have his nails cut and was still fighting it and vomiting to top things off. I'd decided to stop getting him sedated because it made him sick and terrified of the vet and had managed to pin him down long enough to get a few nails clipped, but he was incredibly distressed and did everything short of biting me to get away. I don't want to accidentally undo his ability to tolerate having them dremeled because aside from how upset he'd be, I'd then be completely screwed as far as managing his nails while the pandemic is happening. I think I did okay with the back paws though, even if they're dodgy by most groomers standards.. lol.. Fingers (and paws) crossed he's more willing with his front paws tomorrow. 

    Yes I remember that day up at home! 

  9. It’s likely he’s still a bit battered and bruised generally. As above, just try not to stress out about it, take a deep breath and take one day at a time. 
    Along with using scents, use sound.  I had a friend with a blind dog who had set aside a special set of slip on shoes to wear around the house that had a bell attached so the dog could relax a bit having a sense of who was moving around. They also attached a bell to the handle of the walking leash to give the dog a clear indication of where it was in relation to the owner and help it navigate. They also started a routine of announcements to the dog in clear short phrases, such as ‘Henry we are home, Henry we are in the kitchen, Henry I’m having a shower, Henry we are in bed, etc etc  It didn’t take long for the dog to associate the instruction with the activities and react or relax, depending. 
    another big tip is to get down on your hands and knees and move around your home. Check things out from his perspective and open up navigable pathways at your dogs level. 
    You have to start thinking a lot more about things for your dog. 
    Leave the tv or radio on if you leave the house. If you think he is likely to have trouble, wander about aimlessly, get stuck or could hurt himself, set him up for success by blocking off just a small area of the house or yard that is safety checked. Try to make it an area that is his favourite or more comforting or interesting, such as under cover by the back door (not down by the back fence) or just the one room in the house. Leave him with a bone to chew, treat dispenser toy etc. As his confidence increases, possibly open up more space. 

    And if he likes toys and balls, either get ones with bells, or attach a bell to his favourites. 
    Try putting down different textures mats in strategic locations to help navigate and indicate. 
    everything in his world needs to be much more tactile now. Sounds, smells and touch. Watch him move around the environment and think outside the square to find a solution to problems that arise. 

    another thing you could consider is getting him a suitable companion. Perhaps not a puppy but a small size dog over a couple of years old. 

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  10. 50 minutes ago, Snook said:

    Thanks so much for the tips about practising on wood and muffling the noise with a tea towel. It's good to know you prefer the stone too. :) 


    They make the nails hot pretty quickly don't they? I'm assuming that's the reason for not keeping it in one spot for long? Thanks so much for the tips on how to do it and yep, will definitely make sure I have my hair tied back and no loose clothing on. Thank you! 

    Yeah heat. You don’t want to cauterise him. Another tip is a fair bit of nail dust drifts off, so either blow gently to make it go away from you, keep your face well out of it, or wear a mask if you have one. It’s not the stuff you want up your nose or in your lungs

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  11. My personal preference is the stone. Many many groomers use the sand paper drum. The Dremel I linked has both, so you can experiment a bit for yourself. I find that the paper drums catch and bump a bit more but they probably are a tiny bit faster at the job. Whatever one you use, just make make sure you don’t just hold it on one spot for more than a few seconds at a time. Move it around with a firm pressure as if you’re polishing a surface. Start on the front point and move it around the front, top, bottom, and sides of the bit of the nail you’re hoping to grind down. Make sure you don’t have any loose clothing on and watch you don’t stick your head right in there and catch your hair in it! It will self brake in a second if something gets caught in it but not before you lose a hunk of hair or rip your clothes. 
    if you grind your finger by accident it will sting but it won’t kill ya. 

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  12. I’d probably go with the dremel I linked to. I had one and it’s absolutely fine for even commercial pet grooming. I also have the older ‘stylus’ one which is essentially the same tool but with a trigger shaped handle that I find much easier to hold and steer. Unfortunately they’re not available in the trigger shape any more. I only gave the Dremel  I linked to  above, to someone else, because I preferred my older one for the shape. They both have the same power. The bonus with the dremel in the link is that it comes with sandpaper drums and the stone tool, so just the one purchase. If at any stage down the track you didn’t like it, J doesn’t like it or you no longer need it, a groomer will buy it secondhand in 10 seconds. 

    the 12v one would likely be absolutely fine but I don’t have personal experience with it. 

    If you can go into Bunnings and look at them, I reckon you’ll see that the one you posted is quite big and heavy like buying an excavator when you only need a bobcat 

    ETA if you look at the pictures in the links, compare how the smaller one I posted fits in one hand and the one you linked needs 2 big man hands! I really don’t think you need the bigger one. For power or handleability 

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  13. Something like this one will do the job but doesn’t have the right attachment. 



    This is the attachment I prefer. You can use the outer surface  and it also has a concave end that you can poke the nail into



    this is the dremel that most groomers use and it has sand paper or stone attachments in the box 


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  14. 1 minute ago, sheena said:

    I have never heard of a Maltalier....are they a purebred??

    Maltese x Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.  Not an ANKC recognised breed. But seeing as there is more than one way to ‘recognise’ a dog, they are a popular mixed type. I see them regularly in pet grooming. 

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  15. Also, it does depend a bit on what breed or type of dog you are looking for. The ANKC deals with a certain widely recognised breeds.

    other registries deal with certain types that are not ANKC recognised, such as Murray River Retriever, Cobberdog, Koolie etc. if you are looking for some of the increasingly popular ‘designer’ dogs like Cavoodle or Labradoodle, then breeders who are attached to a registry may be a better bet than those not attached to any registry, but that’s not guaranteed.

    If you’re looking for a ‘frug’ or a ‘moodle’ then really all you can do is make sure you meet the parents and look at the environment, and ask a lot of questions. 
    ANY puppy from ANYWHERE should be at least 8 weeks old, and have paperwork verifying it has had a vaccination, and should be microchipped. If those things aren’t in place, run a mile! 

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  16. Ethical & responsible breeders can be found in any breeding arena, just as non ethical & irresponsible breeders can be found in any breeding arena. No registry on its own can guarantee quality breeding or ethical behaviour. It is up to you as a consumer to understand what the different registries bring to the table regarding breeding practices and health testing etc, and then make sure you are satisfied that the breeder in question meets the requirements of their registry, and complies with the animal welfare act. You can ask for breeder registration numbers and call the registry to authenticate their registration, and choose to either report or walk away from environments and practices that don’t match your expectations. 

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  17. Yes Asal, I use the example of our ‘ beloved’ Australian breeds to demonstrate this. EVERY single Australian breed could only have existed in its current form since, well, since Australia began! And in all of those breeds I can think of, none of them ran off a ship in the form we know them today. They’ve all become what we know them to be today, since Australia was settled. Most recently, the Tenterfield Terrier, our newest ‘breed’ .


    I feel a little bit ragey when I see discussions about so called designer dogs. Pedigree show people get their knickers all mixed up decrying these dogs. But, in reality, I see new breeds and types emerging. Contemporary dogs bred for contemporary purpose. Just like the old days when the breeds we know and hold close today, we’re being developed, these contemporary ‘breeds’ don’t just hatch out of an egg. They take generations to emerge. We just happen to be the generations witnessing this transition, as I’m sure, in fact hope, that generations to come, will be able to witness the emergence of new dogs to suit their time and purpose. Because things change, and that is ok!! 

  18. Try convincing the farmer with a ‘short coat border collie’ who works hard daily and saves him the wages of several men, that his dog is less worthy than the show winning pedigree border collie, and vice versa...... All dogs have value in the big picture.

    Before the introduction of conFORMation dog shows, domestic dogs were bred almost exclusively for purpose. And more often than not, practiced their purpose. The look of the dog was secondary to what the dog could do, and even when ‘looks’ we’re taken into account, preferences were usually based on the terrain the dog was expected to work in and how. 

    as Conformation dog shows rose in popularity, that drove down diversity by its very nature. the concept of uniformity and purity has been a disaster for domestic dogs. 
    Anyone who thinks  dividing and limiting gene pools towards a dead end goal is a good thing for dogs, has their heads in a strange place. 

    the very nature of the ‘working v show lines’ is so divisive and does dogs no good. Within breeds, I doubt breeding exclusively towards either goal is a great thing. 

    It seems all the pedigree conformation system has done for dogs is divide, limit, reduce....

    In days gone by, I doubt Fred would have cared if Dave’s Labrador had white feet. Dave probably would have watched Fred’s dog and if Fred’s dog had some ability that Dave thought could enhance his own dogs, blokes would have got the dogs together to see what the results were. Maybe they gained some desirable traits, maybe they didn’t. Because they were using the dogs for a purpose they could nut that out pretty quickly and decide their next move. Meanwhile, Mark from a few districts over might have heard about those pups, that were a bit short on leg and a bit too flashy in their marking for the purpose that Fred and Dave needed, but reckoned they might be just the ticket for his slightly different terrain. Once working his new pups, Mark worked out they were lacking in the scenting department for his needs, but decided to take a chance crossing one out to his best little spaniel, and managed to gain the best working dogs he ever had! ( for his purposes) 


    The idea of conformity & purity  in dogs is the biggest disease we have bestowed on ‘mans best friend’ and no amount of health testing can undo what driving toward that end has done, whilst ever we still drive in that direction. 


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  19. Baby food is great! I eat it as snacks myself because it usually has no added anything, unlike packaged food for adults. 
    I hate, loathe, salt and find baby foods deliciously un salty. I also don’t know why packaged foods for adults has to have added sugar, or be artificially sweetened instead of genuinely no added sugar, another reason I like baby foods! I don’t understand why I can’t buy them in adult servings lol.

    Im probably the only person that buys the  ‘no added salt’ tinned soup and baked beans! 
    recently I bought one of those ‘no added sugar’ Feel Good ice coffee drinks. I was looking forward to having an unsweetened commercial milk drink on the run, but turns out it’s actually got loads of artificial sweetener in place of not adding actual sugar. I nearly spat out my first mouthful as it was so freaking sweet! I couldn’t finish it..... seems folks are addicted to sweet and salty. Oops a bit OT 

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  20.  my cats who are 99% raw fed, do enjoy maybe 2x a week, a tiny amount of cat kibble. They get about 10 little bits each. They go mental for it like I have a bag of crack cat cocaine! I can live with them getting a little bit of commercial food. It makes them happy which makes me happy! 
    so if Justice can deal with commercial foods, And there are some he likes, would it hurt to give him a little bit? Whether that is kibble, wet or semi moist. 


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  21. On 01/02/2020 at 6:29 PM, Snook said:

    I didn't know dogs could eat cottage cheese. I think it's gross but then he eats a lot of things I think are gross.. lol. I tried him with mackerel once and he didn't much like it but he's always trying to score my tuna when I have it and I'm sure he'd like salmon too. Thanks for the suggestions. 

    Yeah I’m not a big cottage cheese fan. It’s a texture thing for me. I reckon it’s about the texture of chunky vomit lol! 

    anyway, these days as a cat owner who raw feeds, I’ve gotten more creative than ever.

    one thing the cats love is a whole cooked peeled prawn. They’re not as expensive as you might think when only buying 4 or 5. The cats also love love love the chicken giblets, chicken hearts & chicken liver that I usually get from supermarket. 

    you can but canned prawns and canned crab meat at Coles but it’s usually in brine not water, so I drain and rinse well. 

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