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Shetland Sheepdog


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The Shetland Sheepdog

ANKC Standard

(from http://www.ankc.org.au/home/breeds_details.asp?bid=151 )

Group: Group 5 (Working Dogs)

General Appearance: Small, long haired, working dog of great beauty, free from cloddiness and coarseness, action lithe and graceful. Outline symmetrical so that no part appears out of proportion to whole. Abundant coat, mane and frill, shapeliness of head and sweetness of expression combine to present the ideal.

Characteristics: Alert, gentle, intelligent, strong and active.

Temperament: Affectionate and responsive to his owner, reserved towards strangers, never nervous.

Head And Skull: Head refined and elegant with no exaggerations: when viewed from top or side a long, blunt wedge, tapering from ear to nose. Width and depth of skull in proportion to length of skull and muzzle. Whole to be considered in connection with size of dog. Skull flat, moderately wide between ears, with no prominence of occipital bone. Cheeks flat, merging smoothly into well rounded muzzle. Skull and muzzle of equal length, dividing point inner corner of eye. Topline of skull parallel to topline of muzzle, with slight but definite stop. Nose, lips and eye rims black. The characteristic expression is obtained by the perfect balance and combination of skull and foreface, shape, colour and placement of eyes, correct position and carriage of ears.

Eyes: Medium size obliquely set, almond shape. Dark brown except in the case of merles, where one or both may be blue or blue flecked.

Ears: Small, moderately wide at base, placed fairly close together on top of skull. In repose, thrown back; when alert brought forward and carried semi-erect with tips falling forward.

Mouth: Jaws level, clean, strong with a well-developed underjaw. Lips tight. Teeth-sound with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. A full complement of 42 properly placed teeth highly desired.

Neck: Muscular, well arched, of sufficient length to carry head proudly.

Forequarters: Shoulders very well laid back. At withers separated only by vertebrae, but blades sloping outwards to accommodate desired spring of ribs. Shoulder joint well angled. Upper arm and shoulder blade approximately equal in length. Elbow equidistant from ground and withers. Forelegs straight when viewed from front, muscular and clean with strong, but not heavy, bone. Pasterns strong and flexible.

Body: Slightly longer from point of shoulder to bottom of croup than height at withers. Chest deep, reaching to point of elbow. Ribs well sprung, tapering at lower half to allow free play of forelegs and shoulders. Back level, with graceful sweep over loins, croup slopes gradually to rear.

Hindquarters: Thigh broad and muscular, thigh bones set into pelvis at right angles. Stifle joint has distinct angle, hock joint clean cut, angular, well let down with strong bone. Hocks straight when viewed from behind.

Feet: Oval, soles well padded, toes arched and close together.

Tail: Set low; tapering bone reaches to at least hock; with abundant hair and slight upward sweep. May be slightly raised when moving but never over level of back. Never kinked.

Gait/Movement: Lithe, smooth and graceful with drive from hindquarters, covering the maximum amount of ground with the minimum of effort. Pacing, plaiting, rolling or stiff, stilted, up and down movement highly undesirable.

Coat: Double; outer coat of long hair, harsh textured and straight. Undercoat soft, short and close. Mane and frill very abundant, forelegs well feathered. Hindlegs above hocks profusely covered with hair, below hocks fairly smooth. Face smooth. The coat should fit the body and not dominate or detract from the outline of the dog. Smooth coated specimens highly undesirable.

Colour: Sables - Clear or shaded, any colour from pale gold to deep mahogany, in its shade, rich in tone. Wolf sable and grey undesirable.

Tri-colours - intense black on body, rich tan markings preferred.

Blue Merles - clear silvery blue, splashed and marbled with black. Rich tan marking preferred but absence not penalised. Heavy black markings, slate or rust tinge in either top or undercoat highly undesirable; general effect must be blue.

Black & White and Black & Tan - are also recognised colours.

White markings may appear (except on black and tan) in blaze, collar and chest, frill, legs and tip of tail. All or some white markings are preferred (except on black and tan) but absence of these markings not to be penalised. Patches of white on body highly undesirable.

Sizes: Ideal height at withers:

Dogs 37 cms (14.5 ins)

Bitches 36 cms (14 ins)

More than 2.5 cms (1 ins) above or below these heights highly undesirable.

Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Notes: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

2. Where and why was the breed first developed?

3. How common is it in Australia?

4. What is the average lifespan?

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

9. How much grooming is required?

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

If you wish to contribute to the knowledge about this breed, please answer the above questions. (Copy and paste them into a new post).

  • Please only answer if you breed or own a pedigree example of this breed.
  • You do not have to answer all questions
  • Please keep posts limited to answering questions or for asking further questions if you require more (or expanded) information.

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1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

Owner/Breeder/Exhibitor for over 25years

4. What is the average lifespan?

Shelties are quite a healthy breed and would average 14-16 years with some living even longer

5. What is the general temperament/personality?

The breed stand reads affectionate and responsive to his owner, reserved towards strangers but never nervous. Temperament can be an issue in our breed. Reserved does not mean timid and it is important when considering this breed to meet the breeder and her dogs and see what the temperaments are like. Don’t expect them to bound towards you wanting a pat but they should stand their ground. That said the end temperament of a dog also depends a lot on the socialization it received early in life.

6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult?

They are a working breed and as such do need to be exercised but I find shelties very adaptable. If I want to spend 4 hours doing a bush walk they are more than happy to accompany me but if time is of an essence a 20 minute walk will suffice. They are not however suitable jogging or biking companions.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

Yes in most cases. They are a very intelligent breed that is easily trained but their softer nature is not for everyone

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?Shelties are very bonded to their family and are best with company. A bored sheltie is a barking sheltie.

9. How much grooming is required?

Their coat requires regular grooming at least weekly and bathed approximately every 6 weeks. The weekly grooming would only take about 15minutes but the bath and drying would take at least 1 hour

10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)?

No they are not too boisterous but I hesitate to place puppies with families that have children under 6years. They are not a particularly sturdy breed and often children are too rough for them

11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of?

Shelties are commonly eye tested and more recently a lot of breeders are hip and elbow testing

12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be)

What health tests have been done. Shelties are commonly affected by CEA which is non progressive but any other eye disorders would be of concern. The average hip score is around 9.

What are the temperament of the parents like

Are the puppies being raised in the house (socialization is extremely important in this breed)

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Is this breed compatible with larger breeds? Does the breed need to be housed with similar sized breeds?

Is The Shetland Sheepdog a generally loud breed? Are they very vocal?

Edited by Bonnie Parker
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Is this breed compatible with larger breeds? Does the breed need to be housed with similar sized breeds?

I can only speak from my experience in owning 2 Australian Shepherds, they can be compatible with work. My aussies are too rough to be left unsupervised with the shelties but otherwise they do mix reasonably well. Their playing styles are completely different with aussie being quite a rough and physical breed while shelties prefer games of tag that don’t end up with them being squashed into the ground and jumped on. I am always conscious of the 15kg difference in size and they are kenneled separately while I am not there.

ETA When placing shelties I do look seriously at the other dogs in the family for compatibility. In most cases I wouldn’t place 1 little sheltie with a lot of big dogs, it is an accident waiting to happen. When I first got my aussie she broke my shelties hip wrestling which seems to be a breed thing. Wrestling of any form is not allowed at my house

Is The Shetland Sheepdog a generally loud breed? Are they very vocal?

Sheltes can be quite a vocal breed which makes them wonderful guard dogs, no stranger would ever sneak up to my house. Excessive barking can be an issue if they are not trained or they are bored.

Edited by cowanbree
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aside from general grooming, how often would a shetland need to be stripped?

For the purpose of the question, we'll say the sheltie is a pet, not showdog.

By stripped I presume you mean brushing out the dead coat after a coat drop? If so female shelties have a coat drop twice year and males yearly. If they are desexed they don’t seem to have the seasonal changes as much but do drop more coat in between.

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The average hip score is around 9.

The current breed average is 8.36

There is alot of breeders who are getting some fantastic Hip Scores being well under the breed average ie: 0:0 or 1:1 which is great for the breed. I only wish there was alot more breeders who would Hip Score as it does limit the Stud Dog choices

Edited by Owned by Shelties
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Is this breed compatible with larger breeds? Does the breed need to be housed with similar sized breeds?

my girl plays with a bernese mountain dog regularly, very happily. Havent left her alone with the bernese yet.

Is The Shetland Sheepdog a generally loud breed? Are they very vocal?

Shelties can be, but can also be trained not to be. My dog was trained at a very young age not to bark for no reason. She is pretty good.

QUESTIONS

1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc)

I am a first time owner of a sheltand sheepdog. Have researched though.

7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with?

Yep!

8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods?

Mine copes with being alone - and according to neighbours, doesnt bark all day when i am out.

9. How much grooming is required?

Mine gets a weekly brush.

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Owner/Breeder/Exhibitor. Invloved with them for 22 years

The breed originates from the Shetland Islands, off the North Coast of Scotland, and were used by crofters (farmers) as sheep dogs, they are more commonly known as Shelties.

They are very popular in Australia.

When living in suburbia we would take ours for a run on the beach/ a road walk or play ball for approximately 1- 11/2 hours daily. We now have seven and they are more than happy playing amongst themselves.

Shelties excel at both agility and obedience and are easily trained.

A first time owner of a dog could quite easily cope with a sheltie. I would suggest that when they are dropping their coats that an owner take them to a groomer for a hydrobath and blow dry as this will assist in getting the undercoat out.

Shelties are not generally too boisterous for young children or the elderly/infirm. Having said this if there is any concern about a puppy in this situation then an older dog may be more appropriate.

Inheritable diseases include CEA (Colie Eye Anomoly) and PRA (Progressive Renal Atrophy), although the latter is more prevalent in Europe. Shelties are also hip scored for hip dyspalsia.

As far as shelties being used for working this is entirley up to the owner. Five of ours have their herding instinct certificates and two are actively participating in herding.

Insofar as the colours are concerned the sables, tris (now to be known as black, white and tan) and blue merles are the most popular.

There are a few bi-blacks (black and whites) in Australia and the odd bi-blue (blue merle without the tan). I have not seen a black and tan, either "in the flesh" or indeed in any book on the breed.

Edited by Hesapandabear
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My mother got a Sheltie last year. That dog barks incessantly. She barks when she's happy, she barks when she's nervous, she barks when she's scared, she barks when the cats go out in their run, she barks when one of the other dogs looks at her, she barks whenever she sets eyes on my Penny, who doesn't like her, and I'm pretty sure she barks just to check in periodically. In case there's something to bark at that she hasn't identified yet. Now, she gets a 60 minute walk every day and has two other dogs to play with in a large yard. My mother also has a vocal Vallhund she has taught to stop barking when told. I always thought he was a very barky dog all the same until I met Shani the Sheltie. My mum says she is getting better with training, but it is hard going and taking a long time.

I tell her there is hope. We have an older Sheltie next door who still barks a lot, but doesn't go on and on like Shani tends to. She barks and then stops. It upsets the neighbours, though. The ones behind us apparently tried to make our neighbours give their Sheltie up because she was too loud.

On the plus side, Shani is DEAD easy to train and extremely responsive.

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Some shelties are more prone to barking than others but a water pistol and consistant training should eliminate most of it. I would say however that shelties are not suitable outside or kennel dogs. They want to be with their family and that is one of the sure fire ways of creating a barking problem.

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I have one barker no matter what I done nothing would stop her..... It was mainly the neighbours stiring her up with the hose ( she loves water)... I tried the citonella collar - nothing, squirty bottle - thinks it's a game only other option was to send her to mums place as she is on land all barking has stopped.

My other dogs I have at home don't hear a peep from them unless somebody is in the driveway or hanging around... Great little watch dogs.

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Is this breed compatible with larger breeds? Does the breed need to be housed with similar sized breeds?

Is The Shetland Sheepdog a generally loud breed? Are they very vocal?

Our Sheltie lives quite happily with eight Great Danes. He was not raised with them arriving here as an adult for my daughter to show. He has settled in here very well.

Brady can be vocal. Especially around feed time when I am organising the dogs dinners. They all get pretty keen when they know food is coming. He also gets vocal if the kids are outside playing and he is locked in the house. He demands to play too! :(

ETA: Danes are not an overly energetic or rough breed. They are placid and like to sleep a lot. I find Brady is more of a boss here than the Danes are. He does have a bit of a habit of rounding the Danes up when they are coming in and out of the house LOL My older Dane bitch has taken to Brady and I am sure she thinks he is one of her pups. They both sleep in my daughters room and hang together during the day.

Edited by riesenhaft
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Is this breed compatible with larger breeds? Does the breed need to be housed with similar sized breeds?

Is The Shetland Sheepdog a generally loud breed? Are they very vocal?

I'm a first time sheltie owner of 2 years, and a Keeshond ower before that. My sheltie fitted in beautifully with my Keeshond, and just blended in with whatever the old girl was up to. The Kees was bigger, but her style of play was much slower than Jess, so Jess just ran around like a flash and it worked out well. There is a tiny sheltie at my obedience club that lives with a Goldie too, and no troubles there - again speed and agility compensate for lack of size!

Now we've lost the Kees, and I was worried Jess would bark, but apparently no trouble there except if there are strangers around the house. (I have neighbors who would let me know too!). Having said that, I was told they can be barkers by our breeder, so I came down very firmly from the jump and barred ALL barking from the little dog until she was well over 12 months old. The gentle personality means that a firm vocal reprimand is usually adequate to discourage undesirable behaviour.

I will certainly be staying with this breed for a long time now i've found them!

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