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Retrieving & Field Training Talk


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A couple of pics, but I am always hesitant to put up pics of dogs with game on DOL, too much chance of the thread being railroaded

Great photos!!! I'd like to get some of my girls in action but there is never anyone around! It shouldn't get railroaded in here being it's a thread specifically for retrieving. If people don't want to see it then they don't have to come in here :eat::banghead:

Ruby Star most of the things you need like dummies etc. can be bought from the Secretary of the retrieving club here in WA> a very helpful lady will go to endless lengths to help. Beagie

Thanks, yes I've spoken to her quite often and bought all my dummies off her. I believe she did have some dokken's but not anymore :bottom: Not sure she stocks books and DVD's so I will seek those out myself :whee: Won't be seeing her again until next year so I'm hoping to organise some extra gear in the meantime!

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In regards to the tug thing, as I never had any intention to do retrieving with my Lab when she was a pup, we started tugging, so any damage we've done to a soft mouth has well and truly been done by now. She enjoys tugging so I am using it for obedience work on occasion, so I guess I need to teach soft mouth with some shaping exercises - I'm sure the dogs are smart enough to see the different between a tuggy toy and a dummy or game. My girl is almost 4 years old now so a bit later than normal to be starting on retrieving, but I am using her as my learning dog and maybe if we have a good time at it I might get the bug and get another Gundog (though I do have my heart set on something that isn't a gundog next :banghead:)

Same problem here, I spent all Darcys younger years encouraging him too tug and he has a high prey drive, he does ignore birds though even if they are right next too him but if it was anything else he would be after it! :bottom:

We went to a training day awhile back and Darcy did a marked retrieve well the first time, raced out there and raced back. After that he ran straight past the dummy and into a group of dogs/owners 50 metres down the track, I don't think there will be that situation at a trial or test but getting him refocussed after the first retrieve will be the main concern I think, he can be pretty dippy at times :whee:

I have a 4 month old Toller pup as well (Darcys daughter), what do people recommend I should start with her? She has more focus and intent that her dad, and will retrieve anything, but not really sure what to start her on.....but she is another who hasn't met any dead game before.

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So how many here are actually trialling in Retrieving? I'd like to get a feel for who I should be :laugh: to ;)

What's the highest retrieving title your dog has achieved so far? I'd just be over the moon if I could ever get Ruby a QND, and now I'd also be majorly happy with one of the new test titles :laugh: Just knowing my dog was capable of doing the work to get one would be great.

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Beautiful pics FHRP :laugh:

TO - my pup is a similar age and I have been working on lots of focus, recalls, sit, drop, hand touches and shaping. Also started shaping a formal retrieve this week. Next week Lablover is going to show me a few things and I will share them here.

RS - will reply to your PM in a day or two. Exhausted after a day of agility trialling.

Photos? Well, they call this 'working lines' but I don't know ;) :laugh:

DSC04044.jpg

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RS - will reply to your PM in a day or two. Exhausted after a day of agility trialling.

No problems :love: And what a gorgeous puppy!

I'm guilty of spending my Saturday afternoon browsing the net on everything I can find related to retrieving :laugh: Just talking with others on the topic has brought my motivation right back :rofl: Hope this thread helps others with their motivation, too :laugh:

I'm off to watch some agility tonight, though not entered. Our jumping debut is next weekend ;)

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TO - my pup is a similar age and I have been working on lots of focus, recalls, sit, drop, hand touches and shaping. Also started shaping a formal retrieve this week. Next week Lablover is going to show me a few things and I will share them here.

OK Cool, we have been working on those things as well but mainly for agility, so that's good! Will be interested in hearing what you learn :laugh:

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Sounds like a thread for lablover :laugh::cheer:

Me? Eeeck. Now lets see. I returned home last weekend from my latest trip to the US. I attended the American National Retrieving Championship which was held from 14th to 20th November, Vicksburg, Mississippi. One week of eye candy....observing 97 dogs compete in the biggest game of retrieverdom in the world.

96 labradors, one golden retriever. Apart from 3 (one of who was an retired professional)amateur handlers, all others had been trained by professional trainers.

Rubystar, re Western Australia - my US import came second in the WA retrieving championship, a couple of months ago.

SD, has kindly offered to add her training.

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Trying to find whistle information.

My husband has a PHD in acoustics.

One night I mentioned whistles to him. Below is what he added for my diary. Needless to say, I rarely initiate dog related topics with him any longer. As mentioned in other threads, theory tends to hurt my tiny brain! (I use a black mega whistle BTW).

WE all know that dogs can hear higher frequency sound than we can, hence the silent whistle. However for dog training at a distance higher frequencies do not travel as far as low freqencies.

The same way we know light bends through the prism, the high frequencies bend at a different angle than low frequencies. This is a called a refractive index.

The speed of sound is temperature dependent therefore affected by temperature and wind gradients ie a refractive index.

If you in a clear open field/paddock were there is no wind whatsoever, the temperature at your feet is probably 2 to 3 degrees hotter than at your chest, in other words a temperature gradient or refractive indea. This causes the sound waves to bend upwards. However the low frequencies do not respond the same as high frequencies, just like light. The high frequencies bend upwards and disappear and the lower frequencies keep progressing. The lower frequencies virtually ignore the temperature gradient. If I play a sound of high frequency and you are 150 metres away you may not hear it, but if I play the same INTENSITY low frequency at say 500 hertz you will.

If there is a wind then upwind does the same as the temperature gradient - you will still hear the low frequency but not the high frequency. If you are downwind then the sound rays get bent the other way, downwards, so you will hear them all. They bounce.

This is why on a clear cold night you can hear a long way because the temperature gradient is reversed (because the ground is cold) just as they do over water.

An example of this is if you are close to a shotgun you will hear a big crack (the high frequencies dominant the low frequencies) but if you are a distance away all you hear is the "boom" which is the lower frequencies because the higher frequencies have bent upwards.

Although dogs have a higher frequency range than humans for distance work because of temperature, wind conditions the low frequency whistle may be better than the higher, as the sound reaches.

Dogs just the same as humans loose their high frequency hearing due to the genetics of the ear as they age etc.

Also if you are in heavy cover high frequencies are scattered by trees, leaves etc far more than low frequencies that bend around and continue

Edited by Lablover
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Vizslas, not so much :cheer:

Hey FHRP, during the first US retriever seminar I organised, a Vizsla was selected for the no no drill, exercise across branches.

The US professional trainer bought it up during a well attended dinner in Vicksburg. He thought the Vizsla awesome ( - which he WAS! - with the a great confident attitude)

Edited by Lablover
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Tell Mr Lablover that I enjoyed his explanation :cheer: Glad you posted it.

Such a great result for Yank and his temp handler.

Just played around some more with Em's puppy retrieve - she seems to have the hang of it but I'm sure she'll make a liar out of me as soon as someone is watching :laugh:

Will do, see you in a couple of days. YOU WILL NOT NEED much help. Certainly not theory wise.

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Vizslas, not so much :(

Hey FHRP, during the first US retriever seminar I organised, a Vizsla was selected for the no no drill, exercise across branches.

The US professional trainer bought it up during a well attended dinner in Vicksburg. He thought the Vizsla awesome ( - which he WAS! - with the a great confident attitude)

:cheer: So your next pup is going to be a Vizsla?? :laugh::(

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Vizslas, not so much :(

Hey FHRP, during the first US retriever seminar I organised, a Vizsla was selected for the no no drill, exercise across branches.

The US professional trainer bought it up during a well attended dinner in Vicksburg. He thought the Vizsla awesome ( - which he WAS! - with the a great confident attitude)

:cheer: So your next pup is going to be a Vizsla?? :laugh::(

Now that's an idea...pity my last US trip also included "sniffing" around for LABRADOR NOT VIZSLA ha ha, semen to import.

Edited by Lablover
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Now that's an idea...pity my last US trip also included "sniffing" around for LABRADOR NOT VIZSLA ha ha, semen to import.

You'll just have to buy an Aussie one then :cheer:

I will do retrieving with my next Vizsla, but I'll do a few things differently...

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but I'll do a few things differently...

Wouldn't we all! Hey I may be making life difficult for you but WHAT would you do differently?

I knew you'd ask :cheer: Of course it would depend on the indiviual dog but mainly I'd do less control work at the start and work more to foster and encourage drive. Rogan had it when we started but I believe I squasehd it with too much unecessary control work. He rarely lost a point between the pegs, but the retrieves weren't always as enjoyable as they should have been. Polo on the other hand has needed control lessons his entire life :laugh:

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