Jump to content

Need Help With A Staffy?


deghj
 Share

Recommended Posts

hi folks.. one quick question....

are staffy pups really energetic? bumped into my neighbour who now has one.. approx 3 or 4months old... WOW alot of energy.. and was not expecting that.

It this just simply puppy hood?

Mine is very energetic. She is fit and lean though, so I guess the fitter the dog the more energy they have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mine was but in short bursts. He tended to go from 100 miles an hour for half an hour or so and then collapse panting on the tiles for a couple of hours. When swimming half an hour of swimming and playing at the beach led to comatose puppy on the way home and he'd be sleeping and lolling around for a good 24 hours. Half an hour in the dog park did the same thing

My two are the same! I've found the older they get the less spaz they become though! Lol well most of the time! I think Bella may be spaz forever.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi folks.. one quick question....

are staffy pups really energetic? bumped into my neighbour who now has one.. approx 3 or 4months old... WOW alot of energy.. and was not expecting that.

It this just simply puppy hood?

My experience too is they are super consant hyper littlies, mellowing to bursts of super hyper as they get older. Sufficient regular exercise and training has always kept mine manageable...miss a few walks tho and you'll soon get a pain in the bum on your hands.

At 3 or 4 months old tho...lots of training and mental stimulation, they're bodies are still a bit young for too much exercise at that age. I recommend your neighbor has a go at clicker training.

Edited by Polgara's Shadow
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi folks.. one quick question....

are staffy pups really energetic? bumped into my neighbour who now has one.. approx 3 or 4months old... WOW alot of energy.. and was not expecting that.

It this just simply puppy hood?

No it is not just when they are a puppy...

My old boy was 14 and a half when he passed away and he was energetic right up to the end.. He did not even slow down until he was about 10 to 12 years old...

In saying that, pups should not be exercised... The only exercise they need is play time and training time.. That should be plenty.

I hate to see people walking tiny pups around the streets...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so how do u guys go about raising a staffy pup given that most of us work 9-5.. and the amount of energy these have at such a young age..

iam focusing on when the dog is a pup - presumably if raising is done right, the dog will be easier to manage during adult hood with 1 - 2 walks a day and some toys to play with during the day..

no idea how this would work with a pup tho..eg if i was to buy one aged 8weeks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't take advice from anyone that calls an SBT a " staffy". Staffy stands for generic brindle pound mutt and any self respecting breed fancier, refers to the SBT as a "Stafford"

What a load of crap, now it comes down to spelling/shortening a name as to whether you take advice from someone? :rofl::rofl::rofl:

Actually, it ISN'T crap! When you have had enough dealings with people who do the wrong thing by the breed (and the issues that they create), certain things raise red flags. One of these things is people who call the breed Staffies, another is people who don't know that the breed is NOT called the English Staffordshire Bull Terrier.....just to mention two of them.

There are two breeds, the Staffordshire BULL Terrier (known as the Stafford by most self-respecting fanciers) and the American Staffordshire Terrier, aka the AmStaff.

May not seem important to some, but it is most DEFINITELY important to serious fanciers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so how do u guys go about raising a staffy pup given that most of us work 9-5.. and the amount of energy these have at such a young age..

iam focusing on when the dog is a pup - presumably if raising is done right, the dog will be easier to manage during adult hood with 1 - 2 walks a day and some toys to play with during the day..

no idea how this would work with a pup tho..eg if i was to buy one aged 8weeks

First and foremost you should purchase from a reputable breeder who can match a puppy to your personal situation. Most Stafford puppies contain Energizer batteries, but there are certainly some which are a little more laid back than others. A good breeder will be able to help somewhat to slightly lessen the energy factor. Knowing the temperament of the parents is uber important in this regard.

Proper management can play a part as well. Confining the puppy to a small, safe area when nobody is home will help to keep the puppy under control when it is not able to be directly supervised thereby reducing risk of damage to puppy....or house.

Some breeders will not sell a puppy to a home where there is nobody home for very long hours. You may work 9 - 5 but the reality is that with travelling time, you can in some cases add another 2 hours upwards to the time alone. This is a VERY long day for anybody, let alone a puppy which is in need of education, guidance, company and love. I have had purchasers counteract this by having a trusted friend or family member visit the puppy during the hours it will be alone to deal with feeding, toileting and a little bit of socialisation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would i go about stopping my staff from trying to do unspeakable things to almost every other dog he comes across short of desexing (just yet). I don't want to be too literal but I'm assuming people will understand what i am asking. He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street.

I can't even take him with dog friends to run as he is only interested in one thing... He was associated with other dogs as a pup in obedience school however things have since changed as he has grown older.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would i go about stopping my staff from trying to do unspeakable things to almost every other dog he comes across short of desexing (just yet). I don't want to be too literal but I'm assuming people will understand what i am asking. He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street.

I can't even take him with dog friends to run as he is only interested in one thing... He was associated with other dogs as a pup in obedience school however things have since changed as he has grown older.

As his owner it is up to you to teach him manners. Humping is not acceptable and there will come a time when another dog disagrees with your dog doing it.

At the moment I am having issues with my staffy getting up in the face of shy dogs - my trainer is helping me with this and I am using a blocking technique. Effectively, I am putting myself between the two dogs and then calling him out. So good recall is very important. We are also working on his recall (which I thought was gone but the trainer has since showed me I was wrong, his recall is fine - I was just doing the wrong thing again)...

If you can't call the dog off, you simply have to remove him from the situation, so he learns that is wrong.

Hopefully someone with more training skills will come along to help... But good recall is important.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would i go about stopping my staff from trying to do unspeakable things to almost every other dog he comes across short of desexing (just yet). I don't want to be too literal but I'm assuming people will understand what i am asking. He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street.

I can't even take him with dog friends to run as he is only interested in one thing... He was associated with other dogs as a pup in obedience school however things have since changed as he has grown older.

Has he been neutered? My boy's humping stopped once he was done. My little miss had her first visit to the dog park last weekend and was humped for the first time ever and didn't take to kindly to it. She is a moody little one that's for sure.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would i go about stopping my staff from trying to do unspeakable things to almost every other dog he comes across short of desexing (just yet). I don't want to be too literal but I'm assuming people will understand what i am asking. He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street.

I can't even take him with dog friends to run as he is only interested in one thing... He was associated with other dogs as a pup in obedience school however things have since changed as he has grown older.

Humping isn't always about sex. It can be a way to assert dominance. I'd get him desexed (at 13 months, he will be fully grown?) and teach him some manners. Humping = leash on and removed from the park. Be aware that some dogs don't like it and may retaliate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just grab your humping dog by the collar and put the lead on and remove him from the other dog. Keep the lead short enough that he can't climb aboard again. reward any attention on you with yummy treats. Ie if he can pay attention to you instead of the other dog - that's a good choice on his part and you can reward and encourage with a treat or a little bit more lead. If he chooses to go back to the other dog, shorten up the lead and step him further away. repeat until he can hold attention on you.

I do know someone who bought one of those misting bottles for travel - ie 100mls or less - and filled that with water and used the noise it made as a distraction for her dog. Not sure how effective that would be. But if you can make some distraction for your dog before he gets to another dog, and get him back to you that would be good. If his only interactions with other dogs currently involve humping - he may not get to go sniff butt until it's clear he can make an acceptable choice.

Whatever happens, do not let him get any rhythm up - it's self rewarding and self encouraging. Ie the more he gets to do it, the more he will want to do it. If you can stop him completely (doesn't get started) for a whole month, it may mean he will find making the right choice easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would i go about stopping my staff from trying to do unspeakable things to almost every other dog he comes across short of desexing (just yet). I don't want to be too literal but I'm assuming people will understand what i am asking. He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street.

I can't even take him with dog friends to run as he is only interested in one thing... He was associated with other dogs as a pup in obedience school however things have since changed as he has grown older.

I'd start by teaching him to focus on you. With mine I use food and a clicker or a clicker and toy, whatever they are most interested. To make it short, put them on a lead, call their name and start by clicking and treating when you have their attention. There's lots of books and suggestions on things you can do, but basically you start without distraction, in your case other dogs and work up from there. Teach your dog to recall and I mean "recall" not just come when it feels like it. If you work on the focus and rewards, you're dog will jump through hoops for you.

Don't allow him off lead near other dogs and you take control of the situation. Use a check chain and reprimand him if he goes to mount another dog or postures and dances around and reward the good behaviour and the focus on you.

He humps and carries on because you allow it. It's not fun for other dogs and certainly it will end in a fight when a dog takes exception to it and won't tolerate the rude behaviour. It may mean that he doesn't play with other dogs for a long time or he may never get to play again.

I don't encourage any of my puppy buyers to socialise their pups in puppy or dog free for alls and think the Staffords do best by learning to focus on you and being indifferent to others out side of their own packs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He becomes very hysterical and will not stop and certainly does not listen to a word i say. The only option is to lock him away at which point he will yelp loud enough to be heard half way down the street.
<br style="color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-family: verdana, tahoma, arial, sans-serif; line-height: 18px; background-color: rgb(238, 242, 247); ">

Is this to dogs which come to your home, or dogs in a dog park, or dogs when you are walking your dog ?

being an Amstaff - you need to be cautious, and really start some training/focus. If, one day, a dog gets hurt, or an owner gets cranky , you and your dog may be in trouble :(

How many training sessions do you do each day ? If , when training, he is looking at you, waiting for his reward , and listening - ten that's a very good start :) If not ...you need to do some work .

I think this says it all ;)

He humps and carries on because you allow it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's only dogs at home. i know what people are probably thinking but no i am not that irresponsible. I never let him off the leash at the park or the beach when there are other dogs around. And if someone enters the park (usually without asking) i put him straight on the lead and take him home because he begins to focus on the dogs and i cannot control him. As for the age i have been told my many amstaff owners that desexing should be carried out around 2 years as full growth is achieved. Im not sure of the other opinions but i feel that he has a lot more to grow.

the humping occurs when others bring their dogs to my home. some of you are right in saying that others get aggressive because they have been and the funny thing is it does not scare him he will sort of duck and weave until he pins them down. I'ts actually quite disturbing it seems like rape. When this has happened i try calling which does not work at which point i have to grab him by he collar and remove him. I will try to let him go but he is persistent at which point i tether him or lock him around the back. This is followed by very loud yelping and barking.

We train every day when walking which wasn't doing much until i took some advice from the forum members. I am now using small treats to reward good behaviour. Our walks consist of probably 10 minutes to cross the road, 10 minutes to get to the park (2 min walk) and probably another 5 before he no longer pulls and is allowed in the park. Once he goes in the park i lose all control and he is on the lead and back home. It may sound bad but it is definitely working even though it is a slow process. I have yet to try the clicker, is a pen ok? and i will also try the look at me technique. Thanks for all the responses i really want for this to be a success.

My first pup was stolen at 8 months so i have been a bit lost as to what i should do and i think my fear of losing another dog makes me a little bit harsher than what i should be. Nevertheless i am trying my best and appreciative of all the information i receive on this forum it is all very valuable to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK..it sounds much as if he is being territorial /it is HIS turf..and he is boss.

I would ,at this stage, urge you to get help from a recommended professional ..who will observe him at home , and then help you managing it /training.

There are several folks on the forum who could help you ..I noticed that nekhbet offered .. maybe contact her?

glad you are having some success with treats.

A clicker is a special little thing ..makes quite a distinct sound, and , naturally you need to learn how to use it properly, as timing is absolutely crucial!

His walks are nowhere near long enough, IMO ..he probably would settle more with at least a half hour 2x a day (that is on leash walking)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I were you I would discourage people from bringing their dogs to your home, your dog is humping to show the visiting dog that they are on his territory and that he is the boss and every time he does it the behaviour is reinforced. He is an Amstaff and if a fight does start he is sure to finish it.

You need a qualified behaviourist to assist you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's only dogs at home. i know what people are probably thinking but no i am not that irresponsible. I never let him off the leash at the park or the beach when there are other dogs around. And if someone enters the park (usually without asking) i put him straight on the lead and take him home because he begins to focus on the dogs and i cannot control him. As for the age i have been told my many amstaff owners that desexing should be carried out around 2 years as full growth is achieved. Im not sure of the other opinions but i feel that he has a lot more to grow.

the humping occurs when others bring their dogs to my home. some of you are right in saying that others get aggressive because they have been and the funny thing is it does not scare him he will sort of duck and weave until he pins them down. I'ts actually quite disturbing it seems like rape. When this has happened i try calling which does not work at which point i have to grab him by he collar and remove him. I will try to let him go but he is persistent at which point i tether him or lock him around the back. This is followed by very loud yelping and barking.

We train every day when walking which wasn't doing much until i took some advice from the forum members. I am now using small treats to reward good behaviour. Our walks consist of probably 10 minutes to cross the road, 10 minutes to get to the park (2 min walk) and probably another 5 before he no longer pulls and is allowed in the park. Once he goes in the park i lose all control and he is on the lead and back home. It may sound bad but it is definitely working even though it is a slow process. I have yet to try the clicker, is a pen ok? and i will also try the look at me technique. Thanks for all the responses i really want for this to be a success.

My first pup was stolen at 8 months so i have been a bit lost as to what i should do and i think my fear of losing another dog makes me a little bit harsher than what i should be. Nevertheless i am trying my best and appreciative of all the information i receive on this forum it is all very valuable to me.

I had my amstaff boy snipped at 1 and a half. IMO the sooner the better and I would have had him done at 6 months if I had my time again... It's easier to prevent bad behavior than change a bad habit. I agree with not desexing larger breed dogs until they are fully grown. But AmStaffs aren't really considered a large breed.

Clickers are relatively cheap to buy, they certainly have a sound of their own, much louder than the click of a pen.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with the others that said get a professional in. I think Nekhbet would be good too - if you're in Victoria.

....i try calling which does not work at which point i have to grab him by he collar and remove him. I will try to let him go but he is persistent at which point i tether him or lock him around the back. This is followed by very loud yelping and barking.

Erm. It's currently a bad habit and he's doing it because it's "fun" (he gets what he wants) and he can.

So you know he's going to do try it with visiting dogs. So make sure you have control before they're allowed in. Ie put him on lead first. And then try the choice stuff. If he can't make a good choice at any distance, put him where he can't see the other dogs or hear them (ideally). I would also consider organising meets with the visiting dogs somewhere neutral ie territory that neither dog is particularily familiar with, on lead - for control. If your dog can accept the visiting dog as a friend outside his territory, he may be more comfortable about allowing them into his territory.

I'd probably use a crate, I have been known to use my car (when there is cool shady weather), and cover the crate up. If he stops yelping you can uncover part of the crate. The main thing is NEVER give in when he's yelling in the crate - or he will yell more - cos it obviously works. It would also help if you crate train him ie feed him favourite things in the crate, often, maybe once or twice a day, and all his meals in the crate - so he sees the crate as his safe place with yummy good things, and not solitary confinement. Like the difference between the average kids bedroom decked out with all their favourite stuff, and prison.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok i understand. The time he was confronted by a friends dog he was definitely submissive when the other dog showed aggression. This is a little confusing as i was scared he would retaliate. Nevertheless i definitely need some professional training, i think it is the best option at this stage. However i am currently between jobs and a full time student so it may have to wait a short time until i pick up some work. He is improving with the treat training at least.

I will also look into desexing however i did want to breed him at some stage. Why do we desex dogs exactly is it to prevent disease down the track?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...