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CHA

Thinking Of Using A Halti

28 posts in this topic

BC Crazy   

I wish the dog luck :) As I am not sure you know 100% what you are doing :flower:

Crikey :eek::eek:

Seems to me that CHA knows 100% what she is doing: asking for advice, experimenting with what works for her dog and taking her dog to training.

Full marks from me, CHA.

ETA: Congratulations on the break through this morning.

Huge +1 from me.... Well done CHA :thumbsup:

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zeebie   

Another option is use a soft cell slip collar on normal lead and have treat pouch with yummies and out and about do lots of heeling and sit practice and reward-reward-reward :)

When you see another dog and your dog even twitches just do a quick U turn and head in opposite direction when dog is under control ignoring dog reward-reward-reward with verbal praise "good dog" and treat. when your dog is sitting or walking well and ignoring other dog U turn and back toward dog again, this time straight away tell your dog through body language and voice 'heel' with a treat in front of nose walk straight past oncoming dog, if your dog reacts just stay calm, repeat 'heel' and by then you should be past other dog.

I often get people I know with their dogs just to come along to practice this exercise and does not take long for dog to be reprogrammed to focus on treats and your commands rather then other dogs, also once settled you can then bring in another dog to walk a few feet behind and when your dog is comfortable with this you go to having other dog pass or come toward, have different people with different types of dogs so your dog gets use to this.

Best idea is to attend a good obedience program and have dog monitored by qualified instructors and help you to learn how your body language sends signals to your dog etc. You will be amazed how quickly you and your dog are in sync and no more problems :)

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Guest Labradork   
Guest Labradork

I wish the dog luck :) As I am not sure you know 100% what you are doing :flower:

Crikey :eek::eek:

Seems to me that CHA knows 100% what she is doing: asking for advice, experimenting with what works for her dog and taking her dog to training.

Full marks from me, CHA.

ETA: Congratulations on the break through this morning.

Huge +1 from me.... Well done CHA :thumbsup:

And from me.

I think it's perfectly okay to not know 100% what you are doing (although you sound like you're on the right track to me). That's why you're here on DOL asking questions. There is always something new to learn, even for the 'experts'.

Edited by Labradork

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m-sass   

I would be especially hesitant using a head collar on a dog prone to lunging, the potential of neck damage etc is greater. I'm personally not a fan of the tool.

If your dog is reactive on walks I would be inclined to suggest seeing a trainer if possible.

+1 :thumbsup:

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Jumabaar   

Thank you for all your replies everyone. I really appreciate your input. YES I am trying to do the very best I can with my little dog. We got her from the pound about 3 months ago and she has come along in great leaps and bounds. We are working very hard with her and have seen a behaviouralist for her reactivity with other dogs on walks and it has been amazing the difference in her now with just a few little adjustments to our behaviour! I totally agree it is the people who need the training and then the dog should be OK. So we are trying very hard.

We had a huge WIN this morning and I am so proud of her and of us. We took her to the local dog training club, with dogs all over the place. She met dogs nicely and only really cried when the stimulus got too much for her, no aggression at all (except when another terrier, who the owner said was friendly, had a go at her... :( she reacted back).

We even managed to join in a class and she focussed on me and walked nicely and did some sits as well and she was able to relax and enjoy herself. We then watched the beginners agility so I'm thinking that may be on the cards in the future.....

Its great that you have had success. Just remember that the best training happens before the dog is overwhelmed and too much too fast can be detrimental. So perhaps begin by going to the club and just hanging around during class and not interacting with the other dogs and giving LOTS and LOTS of rewards for easy behaviours. There is no need for her to go up to other dogs while she is still learning that calm behaviour is appropriate. It also means you wont take two steps back every time someones 'friendly' dog has a go at yours.

The Halti can suppress all behaviours- so the ones that tell you she is stressed and needs more space so be on the look out for more subtle warnings that your little one needs some time out. I find crates or popping them back in the car can give them time to relax in a 'safe' place and just doing 3 sets of 5 minutes of work at a time can get you better/faster results than an hour of class!!

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With Kenzie and her reactivity issues I have used a normal flat collar, front attach harness, halti and martingale (blackdog taining collar). Each was useful to me at different times and for different reasons. If you are going to use a halti with a reactive dog make sure you understand how to use it, how to position yourself, where to hold the lead, etc or you will have a dog with neck problems (so many people allow reactive dogs to have a full leash with a halti and so they continually neck themselves every time they react - not safe!!). But while I was using all these most importantly we were training to counter her reactivity, the simplest most useful game for me was LAT - and in all honesty it doesn't matter what equipment you're using when you play this! The other thing that was part of our training was wherever possible staying below threshold. To the point now that we are in a trialing environment and Kenz can cope with dogs being in very close proximity to her, sniffing her tail, doing performance work, etc and she doesn't react (but we do still play LAT if it is a bit intense). I sort of feel, find the equipment you are happy to work with and train the behaviour you are wanting while you use that equipment.

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The first observation I would make is that if your dog is lunging at other dogs, YOU are too close to them. Get some distance because odds are she's seeing the need to react to keep them away from her.

The second point has already been made - lunging and hitting the end of a lead with a halti on spells neck issues in the making. Simply NOT what head halters were ever designed to be used for. Add one to a smaller dog and the angle the head is pulled at is greater - proceed with caution.

The best answer for any dog with behavioural issues is someone who knows how to help you - you sound like you are headed in that direction.

You should be doing a lot of work on her reacting if you want to train in agility because this will mean class situations with dogs offlead. You should ask for help to identify when she is uncomfortable with another dog and so that you can act before she feels the need to react. A switched on handler can prevent a lot of issues.

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CHA   

Thankyou :thumbsup: , you have all given me great ideas with which to work with. My dog is not really lunging at other dogs so much, but when she sees them on a walk she is doing this screaming, yowling thing :o (and used to be growling and snapping) whilst trying to twist out of her lead. She would be shaking like a leaf and you couldn't get her attention because she would be scanning all round her.

I have done a lot of work with getting her comfortable and have also had the behaviouralist in, which was a HUGE help and I must say she is MUCH MUCH better than she was.

At dog training the other day, we went with the sole purpose just to "stalk" around the outsides to give her some more exposure to dogs - but an instructor "caught" me and whilst I was talking to her about our issues she started giving us some suggestions about what to do. She also pulled out a man with an extremely non reactive dog and had his dog concentrate on him, while we walked in large circles around them, getting closer and closer when she was able to do so. This worked so well, that the instructor suggested we join in with the last little bit of the class. Sparky made me very proud by being very attentive to me in class so that I had her heeling and sitting well. She seemed to really enjoy the training.

The thing is we have another 2 dogs at home and she is an extremely friendly, gentle natured dog around them and they have all bonded really well - so this behaviour outside of our home, is a little puzzling.

I'm going to take it slowly, don't want to overdo it, but I think we'll quietly stalk around the dog training grounds again next weekend..... :D

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