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Harnesses.


Cat
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Yes, our club doesn't allow harnesses for training runs :)

Only for rear end awareness exercises or shadow work etc.

I do the agility beginner class with my dog and the class is using leashes and consequently collars or harnesses most of the time - all heights (walks, jumping etc.) is very low and to teach the basics it is obviously much easier if you can guide the dog via a leash. Regarding the limited equipment we use in the beginner class and the way it is done I can't see any risks evolving from using a collar/ harness.

With more speed and heights and free runs the risk will obviously increase.

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I have ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271795681979?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT which looks to be adjustable at the neck and chest. It might be good in warm weather as it doesn't cover/enclose as much as the more conventional style of harness. In any case it is certainly cheap.

YIKES :eek: talk about "poor man pays twice" :eek:

On the subject of dogs doing some agility training in a well fitting harness...& I am not talking about competition....I feel there is no more risk of a dog getting caught up on equipment if it is wearing a well fitted harness, as if it were wearing a collar. Getting caught up on a collar could result in a broken neck or hanging..whereas a harness would result in a bad fright. I have seen dogs getting "hung" when wearing collars...I am yet to see one hung from wearing a well fitted harness. She wears a harness at training because she carries on like a pork chop if the other dogs are running & barking & as I am the one instructing, I don't have the priviledge of being there on the side with her & working on her training etc....someone else is holding her....one of the great disadvantages of being a trainer. When this is happening, I would rather her be pulling & dancing on the end of a harness, then on a collar, & risking neck injury.

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I have ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271795681979?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT which looks to be adjustable at the neck and chest. It might be good in warm weather as it doesn't cover/enclose as much as the more conventional style of harness. In any case it is certainly cheap.

And you will get what you pay for.

Very poorly designed. How a dog is supposed to walk with that strap restricting its shoulders beats me.

Get a Puppia one if you have a small dog.

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I agree with the no harness. Every agility club I've been to has said to have the dog wearing a flat collar with no danglies if you must but that's it.

Leads on over jumps for beginners make me cringe -- all I see are the dangers involved.

As Skip mentioned, if you plan on competing in ADAA trials the dogs run naked or not at all. ANKC run trials do allow a flat collar with no danglies. Anything else just has the potential to be quite harmful/dangerous IMO.

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I wouldn't use a harness for agility, but I use the ruff wear one linked above for longline training all the time. I actually use it for most things, hiking, general walkings. It's pretty awesome. It's become my favourite harness ever.

I have a friend that has one for her Wolfhound x too that fits her perfectly, and another on a staffy, so they seem to adjust to a good range.

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I have ordered this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271795681979?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT which looks to be adjustable at the neck and chest. It might be good in warm weather as it doesn't cover/enclose as much as the more conventional style of harness. In any case it is certainly cheap.

YIKES :eek: talk about "poor man pays twice" :eek:

On the subject of dogs doing some agility training in a well fitting harness...& I am not talking about competition....I feel there is no more risk of a dog getting caught up on equipment if it is wearing a well fitted harness, as if it were wearing a collar. Getting caught up on a collar could result in a broken neck or hanging..whereas a harness would result in a bad fright. I have seen dogs getting "hung" when wearing collars...I am yet to see one hung from wearing a well fitted harness. She wears a harness at training because she carries on like a pork chop if the other dogs are running & barking

This is another reason I had wanted one - he gets very revved up when it's others turn.

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sheena - this is not directed at you as I understand you are hindered in that you are instructing.

Cat - dogs not running should be crated and rewarded heavily for calm and quiet. Lunging on a harness will do nothing for your dog's focus and impulse control when it's your turn. Even my feral Spaniels have to learn this!!!

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sheena - this is not directed at you as I understand you are hindered in that you are instructing.

Cat - dogs not running should be crated and rewarded heavily for calm and quiet. Lunging on a harness will do nothing for your dog's focus and impulse control when it's your turn. Even my feral Spaniels have to learn this!!!

Cat mentioned that she is on the foundation level (= beginners?)...in our beginner class there is a lot of training done together similar to the obedience training, leash off training, then lining up for jumps, walk boards, table (all minimal heights), tunnel.... having other dogs close to mine and being able to control her by the leash is actually a very good training and does a lot wrt regaining her focus. I can't see how the beginner training could work if we would have to put our dogs in crates when not running. If it is not my / her turn on an obstacle, I still train her to make her more stable...

Sometimes when I found a few rare seconds peeking to the other field where the advanced group is training, I never could recognize that dogs where put back into crates when it wasn't their turn.

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Other dogs' turns is an excellent opportunity to work on your start line stay with distractions...

To do the higher level training and eventually competition - you need your dog to hold a start line stay - no matter what.

Tho I think mine would fail if a cat ran by. Not something I'm going to test.

So if it's not your dog's turn - you can either crate or practice stays...

I love practicing stays and trying to fake my dog into breaking - because it requires no special equipment, it can be a very exciting game for her, and for her first 12 months or so - she was crap at it. Mostly cos I didn't know how to train it. Ie I'd reward lots for staying on the spot but I didn't know about "proofing" or faking her out and then what to do... (Put her back with no reward and start again).

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It depends on the class structure I guess - I'm doing foundation stuff with my pup (only just turned 6 months) and she is crated between exercises. Gives her a chance to relax and teaches her to come out training hard with lots of energy in between. My adult dogs similarly. If your crate is close by it's super quick and much easier to listen to the instructor in between times too.

However, I would work on a relaxed down if I didn't have a crate. An hour is a LONG time for a pup/dog to remain focused. Even my start line stays are trained with LOTS of focus, drive and tugging.

Edited by The Spotted Devil
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It depends on the class structure I guess - I'm doing foundation stuff with my pup (only just turned 6 months) and she is crated between exercises. Gives her a chance to relax and teaches her to come out training hard with lots of energy in between. My adult dogs similarly. If your crate is close by it's super quick and much easier to listen to the instructor in between times too.

However, I would work on a relaxed down if I didn't have a crate. An hour is a LONG time for a pup/dog to remain focused. Even my start line stays are trained with LOTS of focus, drive and tugging.

thumbsup1.gif

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Yeah, they like us to crate when the instructors are talking to us but it is not possible at the moment as I have a largish dog and a small car so am unable to fit both. He has to wait in the car at these times and as it is summer I don't want him in there more than necessary.

I do try to keep focus when I think he is going to get worked up but not always succeed. I will try putting him in a down but I think one instructor had frowned on that as the dogs are supposed to be worked up shrug.gif she is no longer around though so will give it a go.

Thanks for the replies all.

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Yes as TSD said. If you are planning to trial it is not possible to have the dog worked up all day, they won't cope, it is good to train them to relax when they aren't required to be working.

Getting back to harnesses - I use a comfortflex harness on both of my two and really like them :) http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm/product/1771/comfortflex-sport-harness.htm But as others have said I run dogs naked for fear of things getting tangled on obstacles.

Edited by pie
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sheena - this is not directed at you as I understand you are hindered in that you are instructing.

Cat - dogs not running should be crated and rewarded heavily for calm and quiet. Lunging on a harness will do nothing for your dog's focus and impulse control when it's your turn. Even my feral Spaniels have to learn this!!!

Yes...it is one of the disadvantages of being an instructor...your own dog misses out on so much. I would just LOVE to be there on the sideline, just watching, listening to instruction & using the opportunity to work on my own dog :( I certainly take the opportunity to work with her when I go to trials. Crating is not an option as she would still carry on if another dog was exciting enough & it's way too hot to cover her. I don't always run her in a harness, but I can't see how it is more dangerous than a collar.

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Yeah, they like us to crate when the instructors are talking to us but it is not possible at the moment as I have a largish dog and a small car so am unable to fit both. He has to wait in the car at these times and as it is summer I don't want him in there more than necessary.

I do try to keep focus when I think he is going to get worked up but not always succeed. I will try putting him in a down but I think one instructor had frowned on that as the dogs are supposed to be worked up shrug.gif she is no longer around though so will give it a go.

Thanks for the replies all.

The first lesson I teach my new beginners is to "Park" their dogs, when listening to the instructor...I find it works well :)

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The first lesson I teach my new beginners is to "Park" their dogs, when listening to the instructor...I find it works well :)

I really like that idea Sheena! I might borrow that - should help with some of the problems my club is having with our intro class (not enough experienced instructors to run it well at the moment :( )

As far as harnesses go, I like this type (used as a back-attach):

http://ttouchsa-shop.com.au/products/lori-stevens-balance-harness-neck-buckle?variant=1188205633

This one is similar, nicer quality webbing but no slider on the top and no neck buckle:

http://www.haqihana.com/en/accessories/harnesses/harness-l-turquoise

Both have a lot of adjustment so you can get it well clear of their axilla (armpit), don't sit over the shoulders and seem to be comfortable. I don't run my dog in a harness but I do train in one if they're going to be onleash a lot - my stresshead dog seems a lot more relaxed in a harness than on a collar (which yeah, I know, poor leash training foundations, I'm working on it!).

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