Jump to content

Leash Reactive


 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi, most of you provided some great tips and advices on my leash reactive pitbull. Thank you:)

But since then I have seen a dog trainer, (who was great) unfortunately my dog behaved like an angel there, so I think the trainer thought I was balmy:(. I did however employ all her tips and advice, but my dog is no better, I appreciate things take time, so have left it for a few weeks. We do varying routes, I have tried on her own and with a non reactive dog walking with her.

Currently she is walked with a pinch collar, (we used a martingale at the trainers, trainer aware I use a pinch) as this is the only way I can hang on to her (and yeah I'm not small). When she becomes focused it doesn't matter what I do. My poor dogs neck is becoming very red and sore:(

I'm doing what the trainer suggested, I'm watching my body language, I'm trying very hard...I just want to have a walk without having blisters....

Helpful advice only, no comments on pinch collars (they are legal where I am) and used appropriately

Thanks in advance, from a very frustrated & fed up dog owner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What tips did you get from this forum that helped?

What did your trainer suggest?

If your dog's arousal is over threshold it's going to be pretty difficult to employ any behavioural modification. That's what it sounds like to me. You need distance from the distraction for a start.

Edited by The Spotted Devil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry idk what advice or suggestions you've been given so probably repeating:

Once they're so focussed they can't think, all you can do is redirect away. Try keeping a mental note on the distance your pup gets steadily more focussed. You want to stop and reward when she's starting to look over or glance, but not when fixated or so tense she can't respond. Even if that means you're a whole block away.

Do you have a friend with a dog she might react to? Can you ask them to meet you somewhere and you can work on getting her attention and rewarding her at a suitable distance? She needs to build up the habit before getting closer.

Sometimes you need to go back a couple of steps and reinforce basics I think.

I'd also see if you could get that trainer to come watch you experiencing the problem in your usual area.

Is she lunging? Or just slowly moving forward? If she's not lunging I would suggest a head halter to save her neck and your hands, as it would make it easier to turn her around and redirect. But I wouldn't yank or anything with it, just as a redirection aid.

Edited by Thistle the dog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As someone with a highly reactive powerful dog I can't speak highly enough about the sporn head halter which I double with his normal collar and have a leash attached to both.

It's really increased my level of control and my peace of mind when walking my boof because if he wants to get to something on just a flat collar I don't have the strength to hold on and not hurt myself. The duel collar setup also means if a connection snaps for he somehow slips a collar I'm not left hanging onto an empty leash!

I'll also be trialling a thunder shirt on walks to see if it helps with arousal levels as it really worked well for Snook and my boy shows similar behaviours

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be organising for the trainer to come and observe without the dog knowing they're there while you're out.

I think this might be the way to go.

Also, dogs are so damned sensitive to our moods and body language. Your trainer has no emotional investment, you do: hence the difference in behaviour ..... at least that is what I believe.

Ever been in a group training session where a “badly” behaved dog is championship material in the hands of the trainer LOL. Happens all the time.

Hopefully you will eventually have success, but sometimes the behaviour is just part of a dog’s dna and not amount of training will alter it :( - see what The Spotted Devil said.

Edited by Dame Danny's Darling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

When my dog goes "TAR" too aroused to respond - reacting to another dog that got too close that I couldn't avoid...

I grab her flat collar and lift her by the collar until front feet off the ground - gently... and then she can't get launch power to do anything about it. If she calms down at all or stops looking at the trigger (dog), I put her feet back on the ground...

We do a lot of "sit pretty", "stand tall" training so she's got the strength to hold herself standing on her back legs but she can't get a directed launch. And that controls the situation until the other dog is far enough away for her to get her self control back.

What I really can't understand is why off lead or even on lead dogs want to greet a dog who is giving really clear "hate you" signals. Using a collar that actually causes pain in the face of a trigger - can only make things worse. Eg she sees trigger dog and the collar bites her - she's going to blame the trigger...

If the dog is ignoring the prong collar and being injured by it - I would argue it's not being used appropriately.

You can get leverage (power and strength over the dog) with a front attach harness and/or a head halter - both have to be correctly fitted. I have used both in conjunction with a flat collar - ie two leads or a double ended lead... It's possible for a dog that is really excited - enough to ignore the prong collar (or blame the other dog for it), to bust out of a head halter and that gets really scary. So it helps to have a second attach point.

But your best way to deal with this is to remain calm and stay as far away from trigger dogs as possible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Distance is your friend with all reactivity :)

yeah, distance and persistence...

...oh, I didn't know it that I was a poet :D

seriously, small steps will get you there; if you can't control your dog anymore you are too close. The trigger distance depends also on daytime and mood of your dog, for the first dog you see in the morning the trigger zone is likely far bigger than for the ones your see later during the day.

I found 'stalking' other dog owners is a good methodology...just follow another dog, find out what the distance is where you can control your dog...keep him in this zone...and decrease the 'stalking' distance when you recognize progress ...of course, do this only if the trigger zone is big enough so the other dog owner / dog is not intimidated!!!

I found that walking behind (50 m...100 m) another dog / dog owner gives a lot of opportunity to train sit, stand, drop ...every lantern pole a sit...2x - 3x 15 minutes a day...use a harness for easier control as suggested by MRB...it is a young dog so it shouldn't take too long till you see success.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you, might be right...always hard to evaluate from the distance...

Edited to add: ...I guess I'm a little bit spoiled regarding how easy it is to train our dog and of course it is wrong to assume that this is the same with other dogs. Snook is right - best to discuss all the recommendations given here with an experienced local dog handler / trainer who is in a positon to evaluate the dog's behavior and the associated risks.

Edited by Willem
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks everyone, I'm awaiting an appointment with a dog behaviouralist, as dog trainer was not the way for this girl.

Unfortunately her behaviour has escalated and she has attacked my 11yr old staffy x twice for no reason. She is starting to stalk my cats as well...

I will not have her hurting my pets, and time is limited for her now. Unfortunately euthanasia is in the table

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your dog has bitten the lawnmower man, attacks people putting stuff in your mail box, has hurt your other dog, is stalking your cats and is very reactive out. She is simply not a suitable pet. Unless you are prepared to keep her as a dangerous dog, because that is what she is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes I realise that, but I wish to exhaust every avenue before I make a decision. Of course if she injures one of my pets, the decision is easy. But we haven't come to that yet...

Can you keep your pets and other people safe whilst waiting? The dog needs to be in a secure run at home and muzzled whilst out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have unfortunately made a decision to use a shock collar on her, purely to make sure my pets are safe.

I don't know your dog but if I tried that with my dog - she'd blame the pets and attack them. And ignore the shock collar or attack harder, the same as she'd ignore the bites of a dog that was attacking her.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would think at minimum, while waiting on the trainer, to keep her muzzled and leashed to you at all times or securely contained when not able to do so i.e sleep. I'm concerned about your health as well, as what if she redirects on you?

Escalating so fast and strong is a major worry imo. Have you been to see a vet to make sure it's nothing medical? Apologies if you have mentioned elsewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...