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Bokezu

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Posts posted by Bokezu

  1. Ok I have a question - the pups haven't even arrived yet but it's been something i've been trying to figure out for a while.

    When you take your bitch/pups to the vet in the first week or two I'm guessing you can just put the pups in their washing basket and off you go. But how on earth am I supposed to get god knows how many 6 week old GSP's to the vet for their vacc's??? I have a landcruiser but how do I contain them?

    Can anyone tell me what they've done in the past?

    I had a litter of 11 recently so we took them to the vet at 6 weeks in the dog trailer. We took 2 c-crates in and set them up in the waiting room. It wasn't easy and I had hubby to help me, couldn't have done it without help.

  2. No - I would never remove puppies from their mother unless I absolutely had to.

    The puppies are so vulnerable in those first few days they must have thier mother curled around them, stimulating them, licking them. This maintains their body temp which they have no control over. It is essential that they do not become chilled which by removing them you do risk. They must have her warm body constantly available to stop chilling. They must have constantly available a supply of rish warm milk. They need to sleep, wake, nurse, be stimulated to empty and sleep.

    I am an advocate of the theory - "The more you interfere the less the bitch will do".

    To stimulate milk production a top diet must be a priority for your bitch her whole life not just when she is pregnant. Adding fenugreek to the diet of your pregnant bitch does seem to help milk production - 1 to 2 tsp a day after mated.

    The Billinghurst Milk Drink - this I start with our girls at about week 7 - have not had one refuse it yet and never an issue with the runs. It does however seem to have milk dripping when they are ready to feed pups which is what we want.

    250ml milk (cow or goat)

    1tsp honey

    1 tsp flaxseed oil

    1 raw egg (or 2 egg yolks)

    1 or 2 junket tablets

    plus multi B & C Vit

    Blend it and keep at body temp for about 10 minutes for the junket to work.

    I always allow my girls to eat as many placentas as they want to as well, just in case they decide to go off their food after whelping (hasn't happened yet) - the placentas and milk drink will get them through several days without losing condition.

    I have had one maiden bitch not cope with 12 puppies to start but once her Vit C levels were back up she was fine. I didn't however remove her puppies from the box - I just took half off her teats while the other half fed. Once she had slept, relaxed, Vit C levels back up and had a feed herself she took over and never looked back.

    I so agree with everything you say! I would never remove the puppies, nature is wonderful, we really don't need to interfere unless there are problems, its amazing how well our girls can cope, please don't underestimate them.

  3. This thread has had some very good replies Thank your for your constructive imput. I opened this thread with a little of my history (as I had a idea that someone would get personal and not stay with the thread) and sure enough it became personal for only a couple of peoples. To those your questions did not warrant an answer. Our chosen sport is quite expensive and requires dedication and you need to be prepared for that if you are serious about breeding/showing dogs.

    Of course anyone living in WA, Tasmania, the NT or remote from metro areas and specialty locations should have to haemorrhage financially to attend specialties - where they exist. Otherwise they lack "dedicaton".

    I find that patronising in the extreme.

    I agree, very patronising

  4. Hey...I agree.............. I do the same, but not every judge is a face judge as the losers would have you believe.

    yep ... totally agree with you on that .... many losers will use it as an easy excuse :)

    I also agree, its either "face judging" or the judge is "completley hopeless" only time they don't comment on the judging is when they win.

  5. If the breeder you are buying from is familiar with export permits and the rabies testing etc, some that export regularly have it down pat, its not really that hard. You will then have to apply for an import permit, you can save quite a lot of money by doing it without an agent, but you really need the exporter to know what they are doing regarding tests and permits etc..if they haven't exported before would be quite daunting but pretty straight forward. Good Luck

  6. I am also the kind of person that likes to get going straight away, so if my group is on second then I am not inclined to enter.

    lucky you don't live in Tas, as groups are rotated for order of judging, quite often our group is not judged until after completion of judging of 3 other groups by the one judge, so around 2.30 ish

  7. The certificates are required for qantas flights, Virgin don't require them. I showed them my vet certificate from their 6 week check up (which was done at 7 weeks, so a week before they flew) with their microchip numbers and name on with their birth date as they require proof of age, and pedigree papers with name and birth date and microchip number on. They photo copied everything and accepted that. I wasn't about to go back to vets a week after their check up and pay for 10 puppies to have another check. You will have to ring dogtainers and find out who they are flying with.

  8. I had a week off for the whelping and settling in, then went back to work, luckily I work different shifts, so was home through the day some days and my oh was home each night. I also took 4 weeks off when puppies reached 4 weeks, as that is when the hard work begins!! right through until they leave at 8 weeks, especially having a litter of 11!!! I don't think I could have worked and looked after a large litter of gundogs of that age succesfully

  9. I would never have thought of this until a friend has had a terrible situation. She has been breeding dogs for years and always takes the utmost care of her dogs and the puppies. She always gets the puppies their first shots before they go home and then picks them up and takes them for their next lot of shots at her own cost just so she knows it has been done. Recently she got a call from a distressed puppy owner saying puppy had died of parvo. She called the vets and was told the pup was in a bad way when taken in and when they tested the blood the pup had zero immunity. They thought it was a dud batch of vaccines and allowed the other pups from that litter to get another booster free of charge.

    A few days later the pups owner rings up and says the vet said the pup had no immunity because it was inherited from the parents and the parents must have no immunity. The parents of these puppies have had 14 puppies together and there has never been a problem before and the adults are very healthy dogs regularily wormed flead and vaccinated.

    Does anyone here know if there is an inherited aspect to immunity? Not meaning from the mothers milk but genetically from the dam or sires genes?

    Thanks for any info.

    I didn't know immunity to parvo was inherited???, but if I were her I would be having mum and dad tested straight away, that will solve a lot of questions for her.

  10. did she have a large litter or extra large puppies? could mean some trauma or retained afterbirth.

    If it is heavy still she will need some AB to help heal the trauma, if its not heavy bleeding keep a very close eye on her, she prob will eventually need to see a vet, unless it is light bleeding which can go on for 6 weeks or more.

  11. my regular vets were hopeless and I had my keeper girl have one grow back. I found an older vet further away who is brilliant, and clips them off and doesn't apply anything, you occasionally get a bleeder but didn't have any this time with 11! they don't cry when done correctly and this was day 4. I am not confident enough to do myself but will eventually

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