Aidan
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Posts posted by Aidan
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The halters are also not given "good" instructions on how to use them. They tell you how to fit them.....
The Gentle Leader comes with an excellent instructional DVD that explains correct fitting, correct desensitisation, and correct use. Unfortunately, like most instruction manuals, hardly anyone bothers to watch it. It's a shame, because I maintain we would not see the problems we see with them if they did. So I agree with your sentiment, good instruction leads to good use.
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Their Camiros are similarly build (Y design as you call it) but with wider straps and neoprene underlayer to make it more comfy as well as more rings to attach the lead to
I can tell you, Anissa has the best dressed dogs in Hobart
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My girl gets walked on a Black dog head collar and a fully retracted extender leash. She doesn't feel corrections on flat collars or check chains and has dislocated my knee on more than on occasion by pulling me over. We've just bought her a martigale collar and are hoping to use that instead of her head collar, but only time will tell.
As pf has pointed out, retractable on a head halter is not a good combination.
Timing of correction is very important, all dogs will feel the correction but unless it provides them with enough information to figure out what they are supposed to be doing, the correction will be ineffective ("nagging"). A martingale will not solve this problem for you, only good instruction, good timing and perhaps more than anything else consistency will.
If she is strong enough to injure you, then you need leverage. A head halter can provide this leverage, as can a front-attaching harness. One good way to use these tools is to use a double-ended leash attached at the other end to a flat collar. This way you can transition to the flat collar more easily and are only using the tool when required.
Use rewards when she is in the correct position. Define what "correct position" means first, so that you are absolutely sure what to reward.
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What's best in this case people, a trainer or behaviourist
Don't complicate matters, this person has a serious issue. It does not sound like an issue that would require medication, so a veterinary behaviourist would be sufficient but not necessary.
Exactly, the issue is serious and what complicates the situation is the amount of trainers claiming to be behaviourists that haven't undergone any formal study in behavioural sciences is my whole point...............you can't see that Aidan???
I have two perspectives. I am currently completing a degree in Behavioural Science and have a great appreciation for what a formal education can bring to a person as a professional, and as a person. But I was competent with behaviour problems like this before I enrolled in university, with no formal qualifications to speak of. Other trainers, vets and former clients were happy to refer this sort of case to me then and now.
Word of mouth will usually find you a competent dog trainer, especially if you ask here. Let's not derail this thread - we're not going to change the situation that currently exists in Australia and this is not the place to discuss it. There is another thread already created for that.
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Is this a cartoon series or a movie???
It's a web application. You can make one yourself, you just type in the script and use some of the pre-set animated characters. I'm not even sure who is making these ones, one of those facebook friends I don't really know.
They usually involve "in-jokes", here is one for anyone who likes lifting weights:
(language warning) -
Does anyone know the extent of dog fighting in Australia?
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buggerboo?
Kind of like a pet peeve, something that gets up your nose.
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I'm in Narre Warren, Victoria Aiden.
I had some success yesterday. Whenever the cat came near her, I got her attention with treats and got her to a multitude of things, like sit, drop, look at me, quiet etc and I really emphasised the quiet command and without fail she was quiet and totally forgot about the cat.
Now I need to keep being consistant.
Any of the trainers and behaviourists who post here would be able to help, there seem to be plenty in Vic.
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I was just doing a bit of reading up about prey drive, and it definitely sounds like what this behaviour is. Now how do I use it for good and avoid having my cat getting hurt by her.
Best to get some professional help. Where are you located? PM if preferred.
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What I am pointing out is that too often people are quoting "behaviorist" too readily for any hiccup a dog may have which can easily be dealt with successfully by a trainer.
Wouldn't the same issues apply for trainers?
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What's best in this case people, a trainer or behaviourist
Don't complicate matters, this person has a serious issue. It does not sound like an issue that would require medication, so a veterinary behaviourist would be sufficient but not necessary.
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When he does this I yell at him, pull him off her by the scruff and put him outside.
You almost certainly won't punish it effectively, and you run the very real risk of making matters worse by trying I'm afraid.
I'm not sure if you've ever just walked off, but it would be interesting to see what happens and would give a clue about the problem. Obviously if anyone is at risk of being seriously hurt it is better to break them up, but if it's just pinning to the ground then walking off might be your best course of action.
In any case, getting in a behaviourist now would be money well spent. How you handle sudden changes can have a big effect on the situation and a behaviourist will be able to assess your dogs and make informed recommendations.
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A hugely worthwhile documentary - makes you wonder how the creator ever got the access that they did.
They are proud of it, they want to show it off and justify it.
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This guys 100% believes that the dogs choose to be in the ring fighting other dogs, says its like boxers.
Yeah, if boxers where slaves forced to fight with knives or die.
More like gladiators, who also gave no consent and were forced to fight for their lives.
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I've got a lot of suggestions but they are a bit hard to convey on a forum. Do you play tug or fetch or other games with her that require control while she is in drive?
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I agree with corvus, consult with a veterinary behaviourist. Anti-anxiety drugs might be very useful here.
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"Dog Trainer Hotline"
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I'll use one of my retired climbing ones. If it's strong enough to lower me down a rock face it should (should?) hold a malinois. :D
I've not had one break, but test it by putting a ring in it and twisting it against the latch at a bunch of angles.
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Get a really good carabiner, I had a brass carabiner which was pretty easy to twist a ring through. A client's dog came loose in class recently, same problem. They should have no free play and a strong spring.
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Should you be a qualified Trainer with a Cert III or Cert IV, and you stuff up for whatever reason and end up in court, a Veterinary Behaviourist will be called to provide expert opinion against you and that you would be taken to task if you were advertising as a Behaviourist without the relevant studies to back you up.
The point is that anyone can get away with it, but it might bite you later if you end up getting sued for whatever reason.
That's why I say "Dog training and behaviour modification", and recommend a veterinary opinion first in all cases (for reactive and aggressive dogs).
That said, of all the appalling things I have seen trainers do to dogs, all the misguided and dangerous practices, and never have I seen anyone haul one of these trainers before the courts to make them accountable. The only cases I know of were cases where the trainer did nothing wrong, but was sued anyway (e.g recommending in writing that the dog is PTS, but sued for not making the case strongly enough).
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The animal behaviorist I know has a degree in Zoology, a PhD in Animal Behavior and a diploma in counseling. I would still recommend someone with a bitey GSD to call K9Pro rather than them. I would recommend this person to someone with a naughty white fluffy that bites every time Mumsy tried to get Snookums off the bed.
I'm not doubting your recommendation, but I'm just wondering why you would make this distinction? (I have some ideas, but I'm interested in your answer).
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I love reading Lindsay. I'm a sick, sick man.
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He's not ignoring you if he's running in the opposite direction and playing keep away!
Yeah the little bastard.... Wouldn't you say that its still ignoring though, a known command (Come), basically a STFU to whatever I've said, I'm gonna make you chase me instead yayyy?
I doubt that he's putting much thought into it, but dogs do do what works for them. Unfortunately we tend to assume they think it through, and that can frustrate us because it leads us to believe they are "ignoring" us or being "stubborn" or a whole bunch of things that don't motivate dog behaviour. Does that make sense?
You've got a lot of options, but the simplest is just going back to basics and conditioning the response you want, set him up for success. Then there is no confusion and it really won't take long. It really is that simple, hard as that may be for many to believe
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I can't see with the variables thown at us from my experience that I can say 100% that unless you socialise early, you will end up with a crappy dog, not even close for me to make that an absolute fact.
No-one has said that, what they have said is that the odds are against you if that is the choice you make.
BTW, taking aspirin involves risk management too. If you fit a certain profile, the risk of not taking it outweighs the risks of taking it. So no, I didn't take an aspirin today ;) I'm 33 and I play a lot of sport.
Can I tempt you with a beer then
You twisted my arm...
Am I The Only One These Days?
in General Dog Discussion
Posted
That's good to hear, thanks for the clarification. You did mention changing to a martingale so it wasn't clear that it was working out for you, so I thought I'd offer a solution.