Jen

good news! Wiggles has finally found his new home

very well written...thankyou. I have 6 dogs which are all working dog breeds and in training they all work for what they can get as individuals. They definately do not share! This is not a pack. They all do what works for themselves and as for the hirachi it changes all the time depending on what they are doing. One might be boss at food time while another is boss of the ball. Yet a different dog is boss when it comes to the tug toy. It all depends on what is most important to each individual. Once again this is not pack behaviour and so when it comes to training them it is silly to work with pack motivation in mind. Instead it is reasonable to think what is most important to each individual and work with that. This is why we need to understand the pack or not pack theory after all. Thanks for your post

I would definately be interested in Vic as well.

pmed you with details of possible help

Julie

thanks Jules. got it. will check it out

jen

there are ways to train him out of this - it probably will require an e-collar though so think about it.

would you concede to having him in a run instead of rehoming and try a trainer to come out and try some stock proofing? If he will attack sheep how do you think he will go with other domestic pets like rabbits, guinea pigs, birds, cats etc?

he is great with my 2 cats. They sleep together at night. Unfortunately I dont have that option of trying to retrain him. after the first incident that was my plan however now the farmer is insisting that I get rid of him and I can understand that. I did try to talk to the farmer about retraining him if I was to ensure he doesnt escape again but he wasnt prepared to risk him getting out again and is insistant that the dog either is put to sleep or removed from the property. I am lucky really that all my dogs did not join in. I have 5 others which are border collies and kelpies so if they had followed his lead it would have been much worse. I have to respect the farmers wishes and sadly this lovely little dog really has to go.

this morning I heard from another neighbour that 2 other people in the street have had their dogs let out as well. It must be kids playing a prank but I wonder if they realise that it has cost the lives of a sheep and now probably this little dog

Oh how awful!! Yes, can't blame the farmer, he's been very good. I've had sheep, I would have probably done the same as him. What a shame :p

I blame myself although I cant work out how they got out. They havent escaped again so I really doubt that they got the gate open on their own but if I hadnt had him off lead the first time he probably wouldnt have learned to chase. Its always hard when you dont know their history. I have been training him out in that paddock for about a month and the sheep have always been there. for some reason this day they ran and I was doing a sit stay off lead with him. Needless to say he didnt stay and worse still he didnt come back when called. Now he has learned to go after sheep his only chance is to find a home in town where sheep are not a problem. I really dont like his chances. Such a shame because he really is a great little dog.

Hope he finds a lovely home. My dog loves flyball too. Just wondering though, how on earth is he getting out to chase sheep? :p

the first time I was training him off lead in the paddock next door when the sheep ran and he took off and chased them. By the time I got through the fence to grab him he was already attacking one. I blamed myself and have only been training him on a long lead since then, however yesterday morning a neighbour came over and said all my dogs were out. The gate was wide open so I dont know how it happened. all my other dogs, which are working breeds were just in the driveway however this little buggar had gone into the next door property and out their back fence and was attacking the sheep. It amazes me that they werent all in on it. I guess the others didnt work out how to run around and through next doors property. He really is a very smart little cookie however, it is also his downfall. One of the sheep needed to be put down and I cant blame the farmer for requesting that he is gone. The farmer has actually been very reasonable about the whole situation.

I have a 1yo fox terrier foster dog who needs a new home urgently. He has started flyball training and shows enormous potential. Unfortunately he has been chasing the neighbours sheep and the farmer is prepared to let it drop provided the dog goes. He is a lovely little dog and very quick to learn and he has tons of energy. If you are looking for a great height dog and you dont live anywhere near sheep, this dog is perfect for you. I have to rehome him immediately or have him put down. He has been desexed and vaccinated etc. and is house trained and good with other dogs and sleeps with my cats. I dont have kids but I doubt he would be a problem with kids as he has a lovely temperament as long as you dont baaaa.

Jen

Hi,

I have kelpies too, so I know that they can be rufnuts. Have you thought about buying a livestock water trough or if you hunt around you may even find a water tank that is the right shape and size. It would be much stronger and you wouldnt need to worry about them damaging it.

Jen

I have just been watching a story on 60 minutes about dogs being able to detect a persons cancer. I believe one of my dogs saved me just like the dogs in this story. I had a freckle on my arm for years and often had it checked over those years by several different doctors who all told me not to worry. My dog kept licking it and she seemed obsessed with it so I went to another doctor who agreed to remove it just to shut me up and it was a level 3 malanoma. dogs must truely have an amazing sense of smell!

Jen

Hi, if food doesnt help then you need to find out what it is she really likes. You can train her on your own at first and find out what food she wil do anything for. I have had heaps of clients tell me that their dog wont work for food. I have a border collie who was also like that but you need to find the food she loves and teach her to enjoy it. If you really believe she is not food orientated then teach her to play. Whether it is a ball or a tug toy you can teach her to play. It takes time but once she learns she will be addicted then it is time to let other people interact with her as well. If she is afraid of men, then let her start with females that she does not know. gradually introduce those that she is uncomfortable with. I still believe that you can make any dog food orientated in time as you can with play. you have to take this very slowly with a dog who can not trust but believe me it can be done.

Jen

I'm seeking advice about what to do with Chelsea (Husky) in regards to her fear of people. We've no idea what her background is but she's terrified of essentially everyone aside from my mum and me. She's okay with a few female friends - seems to be less scared of women than men and also responds better to shorter people - but certainly not what I would call comfortable around anyone else. Since we got her - think we've had her about a year and 2 months now - she has improved with my dad slightly, though she's still very nervy and scared around him. She will come a lot closer to him than she used to, though she never directly approaches him. I get the feeling she would like to approach people, in fact when Shmoo was up a few weeks ago we had her call Chelsea in a sing-song voice and encouraged her by being playful and silly and she actually got very excited which she'd never done before so that was a good improvement. Generally when there's a stranger in the house and she's not in her crate, she'll stay rigid and alert the whole time and won't take her eye off them. So I do think she's keen to interact with people, there's just the fear that something bad will happen if she risks it. In general when we have guests or someone come to the door, she's put straight in her crate as it's her sanctuary.

To clarify-

When in her crate- When we have guests and she's in her crate, she'll curl up into a corner for about 5 minutes and then lie down, mostly facing away from the guest - sort of as if to say 'I won't acknowledge you're there, I'd rather pretend you're not'.

However, when out of her crate- she runs around the house almost the entire time without taking her eye off the stranger.

I should also note that she does do some soft woofing if she gets startled by someone but has never been fear aggressive.

I'd absolutely love to fix the problem, or at least improve it, as she's got the most wonderful personality and as I said before, I'm sure she wants to interact with people but is just too scared to risk it.

This is just my summary of her behaviour, possibly my interpretation is incorrect? Sorry if the above post didn't make much sense, I find her behaviour very hard to portray. All in all she's very scared/nervous of people she's not familiar with but does take some interest in them (as opposed to running away and hiding). Any advice or suggestions are welcome!

Hi,

I had a similar problem with a rescue kelpie I had. I got every one who came to our house to give her a treat. At first they would throw it on the floor because they couldnt get close to her. Eventually, and it took months, she would take food from people at the door. You have to leave some treats available near the door all the time and tell people in advance so they understand to come armed with food and to speak quietly and calmly.

If your dog doesnt like food from strangers you need to find something that she really loves. maybe a something really special like a chicken wing or a toy. Remember, she has been afraid for a long time and it will take a long time to change, but it can happen. Good luck, Jen

Chatted to the bloke at windchill and what they stock isnt really what i'm after, evan thou one of the scooters would be good. Seemed like a good bloke and was very helpfull.

Clover, would the flyball harness be suitable just for walks as well, or do you think a tracking harness would be better and do you still have good control over him?

try [email protected]

Jenny makes all kinds of harnesses to order. She may be able to help and she is in Aus. I have a couple of flyball harnesses that she made and they are very good and she even embroiders the dogs name on if you want.

JD

hi Luke, I had the same problem with one of my kelpies. One day I was so frustrated that I took off my jumper and put it under his belly to make a sling. I held him in place while I stuffed him with heaps of treats and praise. It worked. Wasnt long and we had a really good stand. He couldnt do anything else but stand because I was able to keep him in place. Maybe its not the best way to teach stand but when you have tried everything else, I fail to see how this can hurt to give it a go.

JD

thanks ness,

I think i might try a thermo and if he gets that off I will try a horse place.

JD

I am wondering if anyone knows where I can buy a dog rug that doesnt have valcro straps. My kelpie just pulls it undone. I am looking for one that has buckles on the straps or snap fittings.

JD

Hi 2RB,

I had the same problem with my kelpie, these type of breeds need plenty of mental stimulation. I found this worked with my kelpie. I put straw in his bed and I see that Bully and persephone sugest crate and paper bedding. These are all good, but try this:-

Go to Karen Pryor’s web site: www.clickertraining.com

There is a good article there called “How to teach a dog give: A Winning Recipe” by Leah Roberts. I know you will be thinking that this is not the answer, but keep an open mind and read the article. If you apply her recipe consistently you will eventually have a dog that will bring things to you and dropping them in your lap instead of chewing them up, or leave it when asked.

Crate training is good, as the others have suggested, for over night etc., or as a temporary measure until she hopefully grows out of it, (which doesnt always happen) but if you lock her up all the time she will be very bored and her behaviour will become worse. Sooner or later you will have to let her out and she will go crazy chewing everything in sight.

You also need a good selection of toys and change them everyday so that she doesn’t get bored with the same ones. Also labs are generally crazy about food so try things like hiding food around her yard. It will keep him busy finding them, also kongs are good value as they take ages to get all the food out and keeps them occupied for ages.

Good luck. JD

I forgot to add, plenty of exercise. If she is tired she is less likely to get up to mischief.

Hi 2RB,

I had the same problem with my kelpie, these type of breeds need plenty of mental stimulation. I found this worked with my kelpie. I put straw in his bed and I see that Bully and persephone sugest crate and paper bedding. These are all good, but try this:-

Go to Karen Pryor’s web site: www.clickertraining.com

There is a good article there called “How to teach a dog give: A Winning Recipe” by Leah Roberts. I know you will be thinking that this is not the answer, but keep an open mind and read the article. If you apply her recipe consistently you will eventually have a dog that will bring things to you and dropping them in your lap instead of chewing them up, or leave it when asked.

Crate training is good, as the others have suggested, for over night etc., or as a temporary measure until she hopefully grows out of it, (which doesnt always happen) but if you lock her up all the time she will be very bored and her behaviour will become worse. Sooner or later you will have to let her out and she will go crazy chewing everything in sight.

You also need a good selection of toys and change them everyday so that she doesn’t get bored with the same ones. Also labs are generally crazy about food so try things like hiding food around her yard. It will keep him busy finding them, also kongs are good value as they take ages to get all the food out and keeps them occupied for ages.

Good luck. JD

I have an eight month old male Bullmastiff puppy and a nearly three year old desexed female Dobermann. Today they had a short savage biffo that concerned me quite a bit and I would like some advice from you all!

They get along very well and play quite a bit. He is quite happy to be the under dog (although the hormones kicking in may change that shortly) at the moment and even lets her drag him along by the side of his face when they play fight. However food is an issue. He is hyper food orientated and protective of it (from her not me). I feed them separately and they do not eat anything ever unless given a command to. She never cared too much for food until he arrived. She would turn up her nose all the time at whatever she was served - no longer - she eats all in front of her!

Today they had a biffo after I came home (with their bones from the butcher) and I think they fought over who got to smell the bottom of the pram where the bones had been which had been left at the back door when we went inside. I split them up by throwing a kids chair at them in a panic (first thing I could grab) and he had left a mark on her neck I chucked him in his crate for a bit of a time out - it was the only think I could think to do! She may have started it - I didn't see - but he didn't back down and did the damage! They have had serious fights ( that I have witnessed ) only two other times - but this one was a bit more dinkum and I thought I'd better break it up.

Should I be worried and is there more I can do? Obviously I have children so I am concerned that they are not in harms way. The children are always supervised around the dogs or the dogs fenced away from them, and they never have food around the dogs or are around the dogs when they have bones and such to prevent problems. I have been holding off desexing him until he has stopped growing (12mths) but if it will help with preventing the aggro I will take him tomorrow!!! What do you all think?

Hi, most vets recomend desexing around 6 months old so I would be getting him done ASAP. Also, prevention is better than cure, so always seperate them when they have food. Even if you have to tether them, whether they have a bowl of food or a bone. It wont hurt them in fact they will appreciate being able to eat in peace. Good luck.

Jen

hi, you need to go right back to the beginning. Teach him to focus on you at home in a room with no distractions. Only when he is giving you consistent focus there can you move to another room in the house and then into his yard. Start introducing distraction slowly and if he gets distracted go back a step until he is more focused. You need to do this slowly. You are just expecting too much too soon.

JD

Hi, I had the same problem as you. I have 6 dogs and it didnt matter who was left behind we had a carry on. Solution for me was go back to the beginning. Proper crate training is the answer. You need to make going in the crate a good thing for all your dogs. Start putting him in the crate when you are at home for a short periods at first with a bone or a favourite toy. Make it a good place to be, because at the moment he probably associates it as a bad thing. It might take a while to change the way he thinks about the crate so start for short stays in the crate and build up the time slowly. Then you can start leaving him in it while you leave the room for a minute and then 2 minutes etc. It will take time and patience but well worth it. You will find that you can leave him in the crate when u go out eventually but he needs to be happy to be there. Wouldnt you?

JD

Hi guys,

I too had a very bad experience at W/P. I would say, with the same instructor. He told me that I had to really use the choke chain to do just that...choke the dog down. He bragged that he could put his male rotty on the ground with a choke chain to make him respect him! I left there and went to Berwick. They are terrific there. I would still be there except that we moved away from the area but Berwick is great and so is Hastings from what i have heard.

JD

I use a bridge, not always a clicker. I sometimes use a dog whistle for the simple reason that I may need both hands free, and then I will use a dog whistle to mark the behaviour. Yes, you can reward with things such as toys instead of food. I dont because its too slow and I like to keep rewarding often especially when offered a really good behaviour.

jen

dont worry Issis, you could always order a walking harness with your dogs name on it

The measurements aren't hard, there is a diagram that shows you where to measure. Jenny will also email you if something doesn't sound right aswell.

Were you one of the ones she had to email about dodgy sounding measurments

All the doggies look awesome in their personalised harnesses!!!

Now I want one for my dog and we don't even do Flyball

Yes but shhhhh don't tell anyone It was only cause she was used to doing borders etc, not boof head, broad chested Staffords, so out of courtesy she emailed me to make sure that the measurements were correct. Once I told her it was a stafford we were all good to go

He thanks everyone,

all the dogs look fab! I cant wait to get my orders now. I have a maroon one with yellow embroidery orderd for Molley and a purple one with yellow embroidery for sally. Looking at your dogs I know mine will be fantastic. Poor Zac has a black dog one. Its great but he hasnt got his name on it.

JD