missmoo

Ive had a dog on Pro Plan before and his coat was dull so we switched to another brand (i think it was Eagle Pack) and his coat condition improved but as i saod i will take another look.

Thanks

The reason I suggested the Proplan, is that if she previously had no issues on it, then it might be a good choice to stabilise her on , before moving onto something else.

will buy a small bag and see how she goes...my husband is a Butcher and will get her some chicken necks etc as well. She has had these before without an issue.

thanks again

Ive had a dog on Pro Plan before and his coat was dull so we switched to another brand (i think it was Eagle Pack) and his coat condition improved but as i saod i will take another look.

Thanks

@peresphone

no faecal test but that would be my next thing if she does not improve..she did lose weight last week before we took her to the Vets..aprox.300 grams but has now put that back on.

@ReadySetGo

thanks for that..im not a fan of Pro Plan but will take another look at it. Any other suggestions for dry food that is mainly meat based?

She is 7 1/2 months....her breeder was feeding pups on pro plan puppy...we had her on this initially and gradually switched her to Supercoat puppy and a mixture of fresh chicken mince with apple and vegetables and Phuds by the age of 12weeks.

She is lethargic as well. Her symptoms present on and off. She rarely has diarrheoa.

She started showing these signs and vomiting about 2 months ago.

Hello

We have a stafford pup with a sensitive tummy. She vomits bile in the afternoon if we forget to feed her before around 3pm which isnt always possible as we both work. We recently had her at the Vets as she was off her food on and off for the past week. Vets did full blood workup and xrays to make sure no infection or foreign body was present - her temp was 39.5c and her red blood cells were just above the normal range other than that vet didnt find anything. She is on a 5 day course of antibiotics just in case but she is still not "right". I am wondering if a change of diet to sensitive stomach formula or type foods would work.

Does anyome have any suggestions on what foods would be best.

Thanks

MM

that's awesome

what about dried sinew?

most pet stores sell this

Hello,

Has anyone done the National College Ttraditional Medicine Small Animal Nutrition course?

I am interested but was looking for opinions on the content before I spend $1700...

Or do you know of anywhere else that does such a course?

cheers,

MM

rotti x lab x pointer

gorgeous dog

that's awesome...good job...

wish i could take her but sadly already have a house full

not all dogs bark to announce arrivals. we have 3 dogs and they rarely bark...they almost never bark when someone comes to the door or on our property but they do let us know by other behaviours....

just because your dog is a GSDx doesn't automatically mean she will guard for you...

dogs don't just "grow" into guard dogs...

if you want your dog to guard or I think in your case what you are talking about is a watch dog, you need to train a dog to do so properly

Just went in to have a look at that old thread and the link on there no longer works, it was from 2003

the link on page one of this thread from K9 Pro is still active...is this the link you used?

MM

I agree with the points above, but with a few exceptions which are:

- I want it to look nice. I am not going to spend that much on a belt unless it looks cool. Sad but true.

- I want a choice of colours.

- I want somewhere safe and secure for my car/house keys and phone as well because I don't want to need another bag as well as the belt.

- definitely treats (lots of them and easy to grab), clicker and poo bags all need somewhere to go. I only need one pouch of poo bags. Hand wipes not needed (my current belt has a spot for hand wipes but I always have extra bags in there instead.

Yep the latch for a lead to clip onto is also good.

Obviously needs to be fully adjustable and comfortable around my hips.

My current belt is pretty good really. I would only make minor changes. Hardest thing is finding enough space for keys and the phone.

yep, that sums it up for me too

I am loving this thread and learning a lot but another question is how do you learn to teach your dog this way? I am from the old school of obedience training with check chains and trained two shepherds to trial level.

Where did you learn the true definition of neutralisation?

Sorry if I am highjacking this thread but I am keen to learn how to do things better.

I learned Socialisation from the NDTF course and also from other instructers/trainers I have worked with over the last 4 years.....

Restrained on leash greetings do not allow the dogs to express true interactive behaviour. The dog is not learning how to read unconvoluted body language.

I am not sure where you got the idea that anyone here is saying that dogs should only have 'restrained leash greetings'

Joe Public buys their cute brindle staffy from the pet shop and is told not to let the pup truly interact with other dogs. We have a low threshold dog with no skills how to deal with fellow canines. No idea about avoidance behaviour, no idea how to introduce itself, no history of relaxing around other dogs.

They join the local club and one training night the dog gets loose........

Fully agree it's harder work on the owner to be of higher value if there has already been a value placed in other dogs, but, again for the average dog owner I'd rather they have 80% focus with the knowledge the dog can ideally handle itself in a socially (both human and canine) acceptable way.

Fine for dogs who work for a living such as security dogs etc but they are largely kept away from public situations when not in 'work mode'.

Maybe my perceptions are warped because I see so many of my beloved breed with zero dog skills and as such do nothing for their public image, when in fact these dogs are amenable, even affable, if given the chance to learn. I believe the same is true for bull breeds, and the legion of SWF's.

IMO, the kind of people who would want to 'neutralise' their dogs are not Joe Public who get a puppy from a pet store and then stuff it up by failing to socialise and neutralise their dog properly.

Neutralised dogs are not dogs that never interact with other dogs. They are dogs that have been taught that other dogs are of a low or 'neutral' value and aren't anything overally exciting.

Missmoo:

I don't know of many obedience schools that teach true neutral socialisation maybe because it is seen as a "working dog" thing rather than a average pet owner thing....I am all for teaching owners that "I" am the centre and most exciting thing in my dogs life but how many ppl really get it right...there can be a fine line between getting the dog to focus on your every word and incorrect socialisation if they misunderstand even the slightest....

As an obedience instructor I can tell you that if I started to explain the concept of neutralisation I'd lose the majority of people in my class in the first few seconds. What I do explain to them is that socialisation is not just about letting your dogs play with other dogs but it is about giving your dog a new experience, teaching them how to deal with new experiences, and assigning that experience with a value.

A lot of people in my classes have a lightbulb moment when I explain how we often set out to do the right thing by socialising our puppies but often teach them that other dogs have a higher value than us and the rewards that we control.

I'd also suggest that a fair chunk of people who come to the club I instruct at are there because they struggle to walk their dog down the street without it pulling their arm out of it's socket to try and get to another dog. These are majority of the time dogs that were socialised extensively with other dogs from a young age, but whose owners missed the other crucial points of socialisation.

I would never tell anyone in my class to never let their puppy be around other dogs because that is not what neutralisation or socialisation is about.

I am loving this thread and learning a lot but another question is how do you learn to teach your dog this way? I am from the old school of obedience training with check chains and trained two shepherds to trial level.

Where did you learn the true definition of neutralisation?

Sorry if I am highjacking this thread but I am keen to learn how to do things better.

I first read about neutralisation on DOL and I admit the first time I read about it I thought it was too extreme and not for me. But the more I have become involved in dogs and dog training the more I can see the benefit and the more converted to the concept I became. Since then I've talked to trainers and behaviourists about it quite a lot.

neither do we were I work....socialisation is taught and continued thru all levels of obedience we instruct....

we also instruct the handler should be the most important and exciting thing in the dogs life, owners cant expect to get their dogs focus/attention under distraction if they aren't

I totally agree with the idea of neutralization for competition dogs. Certainly makes for easier dogs to train. I just worry that the general public might take it as not allowing their dogs to interact with others.

Restrained on leash greetings do not allow the dogs to express true interactive behaviour. The dog is not learning how to read unconvoluted body language.

Joe Public buys their cute brindle staffy from the pet shop and is told not to let the pup truly interact with other dogs. We have a low threshold dog with no skills how to deal with fellow canines. No idea about avoidance behaviour, no idea how to introduce itself, no history of relaxing around other dogs.

They join the local club and one training night the dog gets loose........

Fully agree it's harder work on the owner to be of higher value if there has already been a value placed in other dogs, but, again for the average dog owner I'd rather they have 80% focus with the knowledge the dog can ideally handle itself in a socially (both human and canine) acceptable way.

Fine for dogs who work for a living such as security dogs etc but they are largely kept away from public situations when not in 'work mode'.

Maybe my perceptions are warped because I see so many of my beloved breed with zero dog skills and as such do nothing for their public image, when in fact these dogs are amenable, even affable, if given the chance to learn. I believe the same is true for bull breeds, and the legion of SWF's.

agree...

the average dog owner does not know nor understand the true definition of neutralization...even some trainers i know have the lines blurred between truly neutral and excellent stimulus and command control of their dog.

I don't know of many obedience schools that teach true neutral socialisation maybe because it is seen as a "working dog" thing rather than a average pet owner thing....I am all for teaching owners that "I" am the centre and most exciting thing in my dogs life but how many ppl really get it right...there can be a fine line between getting the dog to focus on your every word and incorrect socialisation if they misunderstand even the slightest....

K9: This is an old thread that may help...

thanks Steve,

I put the question out there as I have had a long and in depth discussion with another trainer on this very topic and was curious on other ppls opinions as well.

I am interested in hearing some opinions....can you OVER socialise your dog? If yes/no why?

..I dont mean incorrect/poor/under socialisation or over stimulating or had a bad experience...I am talking about a dog that has had foundation socialisation training/experiences during the pups critical period, who has no reactivity issues and is "happy" to meet new dogs and ppl etc,

Please note this is purely for discussion purposes and any and all opinions on this topic are welcome...

teaching pup to get in a basket or bucket, box, tip a box on its side.

targeting specific objects, speak,

we have a black lab and a stafford puppy we would love to have a drawing of

I would think you would get most of your deposit back if not all..

but if you want people's help on a forum you need to be more specific about the health issues and breed of dog you are talking about....there are a lot of breeders on here who will be more than happy to clairfy health issue concerns for you if you provide more information...

a friend of mine has 4 Rottis...1 female 4 male and they all get along great..the youngest male is still entire all others are desexed and they dont have any problems

Try Southern Cross Animal Stars. They are in the same area as Erny.

Sth Cross don't do boarding, as far as I am aware, but they do work in with Woofpurnay. Wellington Park Kennels(also in same area) do boarding and training.

Southern Cross do do boarding & training at Woofpurnay Vet Hospital....

yes we do that too!

it's automatic, afterwards I have asked myself why I said "thankyou" but still continue to say it anyway

the poor dog hopefully will get another chance...my parents adopted a dog from the RSPCA who had been adopted out previously and then returned 2 days later