RIP HERO

Dobe's is correct about a lot of the so called " premium foods " and checking the ingredients list is the key to finding a quality dry food.

If the first ingredient listed is not meat, then you are wasting your money. Science Diet is one of them, why you'd want to keep a puppy on a diet that contains corn as the first ingredient and soy meal for 18 months is beyond me. People should really research what is in a product before they recommend it.

You said Science Diet not anyone else....I said a premium balanced kibble never mentioned Science Diet and i never use it either. Royal Canin is my choice....and people should research what is a product before they feed it. Because a person recommending a product does so because it works for them, it might not work for you so people should do their own research before deciding on a premium balanced food. Like i said earlier you dont have to agree and turn around and point the finger back to me at every instance, the foods are out there research and you decide....It may be beyond you but you might catch up some day

Cane Corsos are a very similar breed and are legal in australia...I have looked around for ages and never came across a breeder. Does anyone know of one ??

Today me and my OH had her pomeranian desexed. She is a beautiful girl and even the vet commented about why we werent letting her have a litter but she is on LR and we cant let her have a litter. She bought her as a family pet and never wanted to breed or show her so today at 8 months she went under. Its so cute watching her try and walk but the anesthetic hasnt worn off totally and she gives us that look like ' Hey Guys Im Stuck Here !! Cant Move' haha...I say desex if you dont intend to breed or show but like the others said wait till the pup has matured... GL

Hey guys, i agree with you opinions 100%...every person knows there dog and their breed. Dobesrock i totally understand where you are coming from. In my situation people ask what should i use and i advise what I THINK is better and i always always let them know that it is my opinion only. But like Dobesrock mentioned read the ingredients and make a descision. I like to try various food and see which one my specific pup settles on. Science diet was way too high in protein for puppy. I ended up using royal canin with raw food.

I love hearing everyones notes and opinions as i work there to learn knowing along with uni it will help alot in the long run and what you guys on here suggest always gets added to my notes...so keep them coming and thanks for your opinion

ps: Dobesrock i do disagree with you on the opinion that premium foods are a heap of crap because if you ask breeders what they feed in 99% of cases its a premium food and i strongly believe that there is a reason behind that and that is quality or everyone would have bought crap budget food and stuffed it into their dogs...

Staffordshire Bull Terriers are not a "large breed", you may not profit from any advice you hand out and there's certainly no benefit to the dogs remaining on a "puppy" formula.

Lets say your breed doesnt fall into this category? On what basis does my advice sound like a 15 yr old in a pet store and that profit crap you pulled out really got to me...its called on an insu lt and anyone can throw them around if they want to but hey this 15 yr old learnt that lil thing called respect..like i said argue and discuss dont insult if you think your breed doesnt fit with the opinion, alot of vets will disagree, alot of breeders will disagree because diet differs alot between people and everyone will have a different opinion about it. Will i keep my samoyed on a pup mix with raw food past the 12 months? Yes. Will everyone? No..same goes with you. I know fo a breeder that feeds her GSDs puppy formula till they are 2 YEARS old...been breeding for 20 yrs too...

Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

PS : Sorry for the repeat most no idea how it happened and i cant manage to delete it

SBT's do need to to be fed a puppy dry for that amount of time. For someone starting out in the breed or not confident in feeding raw, feeding a balanced puppy dry for around 7-9 months is more than enough.

The challenge is getting them through the major growth spurts and keeping the calcium/phosphorus ratios balanced, this is where feeding meat off the bone is importants ( unless you are using minced chicken frames ).

For those who are confident in feeding raw or are happy to do so with their breeders guidance . SBT's typically do very well on an all raw diet and this can be done from the time of weaning or picking up your pup from the breeder.

Hey ReadySetGo,usually the easiest way for a new owner is to use the puppy premium dry for a longer period of time although mixing with raw is definietly preferred. People find choosing a premium brand for longer period in large breeds is easier for them and healthier for the dog as these breeds keep growing past the first 12 months...using raw with kibble is highly preferred and raw doesnt have to be canned food . Minced meats are really good and alot of companies make them for dogs such as barf and peringa. I know of a SBT breeder( friends at work own 4 of her pups) feeds premium puppy kibble till 15 months.. Diets vary between breeders and owners and each have a different preference...

Raw is NOT canned food.

What do you do for a living again, because your advice regarding diet is worse than what you'd get from the 15 year olds at the big pet stores.

This using " puppy premium dry " for extended periods, sounds very much like the "science diet" spiel. There's no benefit to the dog, but there's certainly a benefit to the vet/retailers pocket.

Sorry again that we dont agree so attack all you want hey i realise now thats what this forum is about. Well, first of all i DONT get anything from the vet or retailer lol for people using premium foods for larger breeds for a long time. And hey maybe you dont agree but you can ask vets if they advise puppies of staying on premium foods for more than 12 months on large breeds. I know thats what MORE than 4 have told me personally AND i never buy food from the vet and i know raw is not canned food BUT canned food is what some people us thats why i mentioned it before( sorry it didnt come out like you want). Opinions people differ so why does everyone on the site think theey are top sh&! bout everything...relax take your opinion but also consider that of others many many people have their dogs on different diets and the above is simply my choice and opinion. Remind me again about what profit ill be making from giving my advice? Being neither the vet nor the retailer?

Today me and my OH had her pomeranian desexed. She is a beautiful girl and even the vet commented about why we werent letting her have a litter but she is on LR and we cant let her have a litter. She bought her as a family pet and never wanted to breed or show her so today at 8 months she went under. Its so cute watching her try and walk but the anasthetic hasnt worn off totally and she gives us that look like ' Hey Guys Im Stuck Here !! Cant Move' haha...I say desex if you dont intent to breed or show but like the others said wait till the pup has matured... GL

Im recommending it because like i said IMO it is what works and what I USE. At work we dont have Droncit and no one using this formula has overdosed. But like i said before to each their own, your right to have your opinion and im right to have mine as i have used it, so have my customers and fellow dog owners i work with and no one has overdosed on it....Its up to the OP at the end of the day it was my advice and i stick by it. You dont have to accept or understand it...stick to your preferred method Btw just for reference how many does have you seen overdosed on advocate and drontal?

It has nothing to do with overdosing RH and I never said that it didn't work, what I'm concerned about is administering unnecessary chemicals to the dog. Advocate covers all intestinal worms excluding tapeworm and Drontal covers all intestinal worms including tapeworm so you are actually doubling up on the treatment for round, hook and whip. If you want to use Advocate give Droncit a couple of times a year, if your dog is flea free it is highly unlikely that the dog will have tape anyway. It is also much cheaper to do it this way. If you don't have Droncit at work, order some.

You are recommending that people give their dogs extra chemicals that are not only unnecessary, but also expensive and I make no apology in pointing out that there is a better and cheaper way. I don't care what you give your dog, that's entirely up to you, but coming onto a public forum and advising novice owners to do the same is another thing altogether.

Ofcoursei care about what i give my dog, and ofcourse i care about everyones dog. And if i find that there is a problem i would reconsider. All im asking you miranda is that discuss your point with me and ill discuss my point with you. I am in no position to order products to my work and i have to rely on giving what is available to my customer. I DONT own petbarn and must find the best combination for my customers and thats what i have been taught to use by people that have worked there for 7+ years. I am a second year vet science student and am learning everything and that is why i do the work i do so discuss and teach not provoke. Maybe people will listen to your point of view and opinion like that? i know i will, knowing the vet science field is very important between doctor and humans as well as the furry patients...

PS: Miranda btw i have been reading alot and thinking and restudying my notes...and thinking and i agree with you totally. Im going to Advocate only...you totally made me realise something should be changed after more research..thank you

Comfortis also comes in a tube

Not according to its maker Linky here It says its for oral use and that it shouldn't be used with Ivermectin based drugs.

PF, i made a mistake sorry i said that in the comment above...i will check up the applicator name has slipped my mind with so many brands around...:D

Btw i know some people will disagree with each having their own opinion. I like discussing and hearing people out so would like to hear what everyone has to say just be nice and polite about it..im more than happy to be the same

Im very sorry you are right i made the mistake of writing the wrong brand what i meant was milbemax which is for worming. I will look up the applicator for you as milbemax is a tablet. Sorry for the mistake..

I advise you to use advocate( does most of your worms except tapeworm), fleas, and heartworm in conjunction with interceptor which will cover your missing tapeworm. Ive found this to be the best combination for my dogs and many of my customers tried it and now swear by it.

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Advocate and Interceptor both contain ingredients for worming and Heartwormin, so you will be doubling up on chemicals if you use this treatment regime. If using Advocate just use a tapewormer.

It is true that they both due, but ive never had a problem where someone overdosed them ever and i have ALOT of people that use it with no complains. To each their own i guess. For a tapewormer seperate you should ask your local vet or the store you are buying it from(somewhere where they know what their doing) they will give you a brand they have available. But like i said earlier overdosing, on those two products and sticking by the doses is safe. You can also go for comfortis which is a wormer and is put on the back of the neck like advocate so no hassle of tablets or drontal which is also very common used in conjunction with advocate and no problems that ive encountered or heard of. Hope this helps you

RIP HERO the regimen you are recommending is chemical overload and as I said previously, totally unnecessary. I cannot understand why you are recommending these treatments. Also why on earth would you use Drontal with Advocate when Droncit is specifically formulated for tapeworm.

Im recommending it because like i said IMO it is what works and what I USE. At work we dont have Droncit and no one using this formula has overdosed. But like i said before to each their own, your right to have your opinion and im right to have mine as i have used it, so have my customers and fellow dog owners i work with and no one has overdosed on it....Its up to the OP at the end of the day it was my advice and i stick by it. You dont have to accept or understand it...stick to your preferred method Btw just for reference how many does have you seen overdosed on advocate and drontal?

Rottsup IMO is spot on. Also try using chicken instead of the meat because as you said the raw meat didnt sit well while cooking the meats stripes it from alot of its nutrients which are useful and needed by the pup. Also try sticking by strict feeding times like earlier suggested. Put the food for 15 mins, if its left make him wait for the time for the next meal. He wont starve and will learn that there is a routine and strict feeding times..GL

I advise you to use advocate( does most of your worms except tapeworm), fleas, and heartworm in conjunction with interceptor which will cover your missing tapeworm. Ive found this to be the best combination for my dogs and many of my customers tried it and now swear by it.

[/quote]

Advocate and Interceptor both contain ingredients for worming and Heartwormin, so you will be doubling up on chemicals if you use this treatment regime. If using Advocate just use a tapewormer.

It is true that they both due, but ive never had a problem where someone overdosed them ever and i have ALOT of people that use it with no complains. To each their own i guess. For a tapewormer seperate you should ask your local vet or the store you are buying it from(somewhere where they know what their doing) they will give you a brand they have available. But like i said earlier overdosing, on those two products and sticking by the doses is safe. You can also go for comfortis which is a wormer and is put on the back of the neck like advocate so no hassle of tablets or drontal which is also very common used in conjunction with advocate and no problems that ive encountered or heard of. Hope this helps you

Beautiful Samoyed...my bobby is 8 weeks old and slowly getting my baby polar bear how old is tsar now? amazing job

HI

Sorry but I need some advise as to the best way to keep my puppy protected from flea and worms. I have been reading about the various flea and de-worming prevention and would like to know if anyone, in particular owner of the bichon frise breed who can advise as to the health plan for their dog. My puppy is going to be 12 weeks soon and the de-worming tablet given by the breeder will finish then. She currently weighs 4 pounds. When I first got her (which was last Sat), I have found fleas on her and so I used excelpet capstar and Advantage on her. It worked and there is no longer any fleas.

However, I am concern about side effects of the flea treatment for bichon. I notice that even though she is clear of fleas, she is still itching. Took her to the vet to check and gave them her history and they said she is healthy and she is clear of flea but has no explanation for the itch except to say that she is a puppy and they tend to itch more. However, I did some further reading and read that bichon tend to be more sensitive to flea bites. I also read somewhere that bichon may also be allergic to the Advantage flea treatment. As such I am now in a bind.

The vet had advise me to use interceptor tasty chew spectrum (for the Heartworm and tapeworm) and nothing else as they say that flea is not an issue in ACT. However, I have my concern as my bichon did have a flea when I brought her to Canberra and I ended up having to "bomb" the house, vaccum, etc. I also read somewhere that bichon tends to get ear mites easily too. As such, I want to prevent another flea episode and to ensure she won't get any further allergy from any bites albeit flea or ear mites. That is why I was thinking of using advocate monthly together milbemax every quarter? Is this a good combination for this breed?

FYI, my puppy has now adjusted very well to the household and is sleeping the whole night without any barking and also toilet training well. She is happy except for the itch (every now and then). I have also bath her as per the vet's advise using dermcare. She is so adorable and I hope to keep her healthy and happy for as long as possible.

Any advise is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

cheers

Hey Dore, It is true that puppies tend to itch more so i think it is normal and nothing worry about. I advise you to use advocate( does most of your worms except tapeworm), fleas, and heartworm in conjunction with interceptor which will cover your missing tapeworm. Ive found this to be the best combination for my dogs and many of my customers tried it and now swear by it.

Hello,

We have a 10 yo female Rotti & 8 yo Male Blue Heeler Kelpie X, both desexed. The rotti now has arthritis and can't run and play with the heeler so we decided to get him a new playmate. Both dogs have always been fine with other dogs, our neighbour has a maltese terrier that is always coming over to play with no problems. I took the heeler to the shop to meet the new puppy but he was more interested in getting home. He is a nervous nature in strange surroundings, and my husband an our rotti are his 2 life supports.

We have bought a 10 week old female red heeler x puppy.

The rotti doesn't care about her, but the heeler isn't too impressed. He's not trying to go at her unprovoked, but he's snarly if she comes to him an he's given her a couple of warning snaps.

We know that the pack now has to be establishe and we are not ignoring the other dogs for the puppy. We give them treats all together and feed them together. He is getting praise when he either ignores her or gives her a sniff, but we also let him know that snapping at her is not allowed.

Is there any other advise anybody can offer?? At the moment I don't trust him to be left alone with her.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Kerry

To the shop ? Oh no you didnt buy from a pet store did you? It will just take time for him to adjust to her being there. He will put her in her place in the pack order. Just make sure to keep a close eye so she doesnt get hurt. My OH has a pomeranian who just turned 7 months and even though my 8 week old samoyed is already bigger than her she isnt too impressed with his rough play and puts him in line which i think is vital and constant supervision ofcourse..

Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

PS : Sorry for the repeat most no idea how it happened and i cant manage to delete it

SBT's do need to to be fed a puppy dry for that amount of time. For someone starting out in the breed or not confident in feeding raw, feeding a balanced puppy dry for around 7-9 months is more than enough.

The challenge is getting them through the major growth spurts and keeping the calcium/phosphorus ratios balanced, this is where feeding meat off the bone is importants ( unless you are using minced chicken frames ).

For those who are confident in feeding raw or are happy to do so with their breeders guidance . SBT's typically do very well on an all raw diet and this can be done from the time of weaning or picking up your pup from the breeder.

Hey ReadySetGo,usually the easiest way for a new owner is to use the puppy premium dry for a longer period of time although mixing with raw is definietly preferred. People find choosing a premium brand for longer period in large breeds is easier for them and healthier for the dog as these breeds keep growing past the first 12 months...using raw with kibble is highly preferred and raw doesnt have to be canned food . Minced meats are really good and alot of companies make them for dogs such as barf and peringa. I know of a SBT breeder( friends at work own 4 of her pups) feeds premium puppy kibble till 15 months.. Diets vary between breeders and owners and each have a different preference...

Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

PS : Sorry for the repeat most no idea how it happened and i cant manage to delete it

Ill suggest to you what i suggest to all my customers. Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

Ill suggest to you what i suggest to all my customers. Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

Ill suggest to you what i suggest to all my customers. Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

Ill suggest to you what i suggest to all my customers. Use puppy kibble till the pup reaches one year old. For breeds such as SBTs, Amstaffs, and larger breeds like GSDs, Rottweilers, and above use the kibble till the puppy is 18 months old. Dont use kibble only as im sure you know, so using kangaroo meat is fine and is the lease fattiest although with puppies using minced beef/chicken is usually suggested because that fat is needed by a growing and energetic pup. Also stick to at least a premium brand of food as kibble comes in 3 stages. Budget, Premium, and super premium which all comes down to the quality of the food. Although alot of people complain about the price difference( not referring to anyone its just something i hear daily) the difference you will see in your puppy is amazing as i actually tried it on my own so that i could see with my own eyes the suggestions i make to people at work. Premium ingredients are of far superior quality and require less amounts of feeding for the same nutrition for your dog, not to mention less poop

If you need more details ask away and i can go into more depth on the topic

A breed assessment sougt by anyone other than the owner is NOT valid.

For example if a dog is seized, the ranger cannot simply call in a breed assessor and have them look at the dog in question

For a breed assessment to be valid, the dog must be issued with an NOI ( complete with chip details ) and then the OWNER gets to choose whoever they want from the list available. The breed assessor will then determine the breed or cross and within three days, the results are sent back to council.

If the dog is determined not to be of a restricted breed or cross, the Companion Animals Register is updated with the breed details and the dog is home free.

If the dog is determined to be an RB cross, the owner can then seek a temperament test, again anyone of their choice from the list ( they can travel if they like, to the one they choose or pay for them to come to them )

A ranger can "suspect" a dog to be of a restricted breed or cross, however they do not have the power under the act to be the judge and executioner all in one. That would be a conflict of interest. Rangers are not permitted to be breed assessors or temp testers either, for the purposes of BSL.

ETA: when you choose your breed assessor, you can meet them anywhere in the state at an agreed time and date ( within the 28 days ). You could travel from Bourke to Sydney if you wanted to and the result would still be vaild, providing you stay within the 28 days. The same goes for the temp test.

Breed assessments and TT's should be conducted on neutural territory.

wow never knew that they cannot get the breed assessor. I cant believe this

Meh, as long as the BITSA results show not a pitbull then I'd be happy with "significant chiuaua".

RIPHERO

Was your dog registered with your local (NSW) council? Microchipped?

Dogs that are not registered with council and microchipped with up to date owner contact details have much shorter life expectancies at the pound than other dogs. However if the dog was registered and microchipped and all that, then the NOI should have happened. And you need to throw the book at the council until they get rid of this dog killing man.

http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/nsw/con...8174/index.html

Hey, he was microchipped. The difference is with a microchip a dog is held at the pound for 14 days for owners to claim before they are put up for adoption while no chip means 7 days. This was not the issue here. The problem was the seizure and the breed assessor result....

I am so sorry for your loss RIP Hero

As an owner of a crossbreed dog that I adopted from a pound these sort of horror stories send cold shivers down my spine. My dog is chipped and registered as a Bull Arab x but I know nothing of her blood lines. How would I protect her from misidentification? She is a much loved member of the family and I never have her outside unless I am with her, she is crated when I am at work and always on the leash in public, we do obedience training and I keep her socialised but have no papers to prove what she is/isnt.

Hey Robbi, Hero was exactly like that. He started going to work with me as soon as i got him ( i love to socialise my dogs at my work from a young age cause they get to meet alot of different animals every day, when they have had their first 2 shots ofcourse ).... With your dog, you must follow all the steps everyone has explained here if anything DOES happen( god forbid) for me i didnt have any deep knowledge about the issue like the laws until i read about them for hours and hours so i could help other people out. Jakemon thats an awesome idea. I have so many regrets and anger and hatred but ill use it for the other dogs that can be saved. :D Keep it up guys and thank you