Ren

So sorry for your loss.

Thanks for posting the Embark results, it's interesting to see the comparison.

I agree with DeltaCharlie. Cutting them small amounts at a time worked best for me, sort of like shaving the nail down.

My old dog had very hard black nails, but with this technique there shouldn't be any problem. The nail will cut off looking white and flakey. Once you've cut down enough the nail starts to look black like licorice, stop then.

Dremel is also good, but depends on how hard or long the nails are. Definitely good for smoothing out any sharp edges.

1 hour ago, Rebanne said:

Is this the 4 foot section? If so I would definitely want it higher. Short term for privacy you could attach some shadecloth with zip ties. Another option is the sections of brushwood/bamboo you can buy which is 5-6 feet high.

Yes this section is also only 4ft. That's not a bad idea about the Bamboo screening! I think I'll be getting a fencing company in to give me some possible options too for permanent solutions.

20 minutes ago, JRG said:

I am seriously concerned that you would even think that 4 foot would keep a Golden in!  They can be excellent jumpers and clear that with ease!

Please don't be so judgmental. Where did I say I intend to keep it at 4ft? The topic is all about my intention to make changes to my fencing.

Thanks everyone for your responses thus far, they're all good points.

Oh I agree about dogs in the front yard unattended, not only that but I hate to think about strangers being able to interact with the dog without supervision.

My post was a bit unclear because I'm trying to refer to the front portion of the fenced backyard. It's not just a standard gate, it's about 6 meters of fencing, set well back from the main street.

Currently that section is aluminum tube fencing, which doesn't offer much privacy and I'd like to avoid giving a dog much vision to bark at passer-bys. Because it's a wider fenced area I'd like to avoid going for the full blocky colourbond there, I'll look into the aluminum slats which offer more privacy but aren't completely solid.

That's a good point about keeping other dogs out too, for sure.

And I agree about the chain mesh as well, I've seen many cases of dogs getting footing to climb those. As stated before, if you've got a dog with a mind of getting out, then you've really got to think beyond standard fencing.

I'm hoping to be ready for a dog again by the end of the year so I'm currently questioning appropriate fencing heights.

My house is fully fenced but due to the slope and landscaping I need to make changes to the front of the yard fence and gate, as for the rest of the yard perimeter, it's 4ft colourbond.

The size of dog I'm interested in is a Golden Retriever, I've had two other dogs this size at another property where the front fence was 4ft, maybe even a bit lower, with no issues, but I'm not wanting to take chances.

Would adding an extension to the colourbond to make it 5ft be appropriate? Or should the extension really be at least 6ft for this size of dog?

As for the front, it likely wont be colourbond, I'm considering the aluminum slate fencing, does anyone have any experience with that type of fencing and dogs? I assume as long as the gaps between the slats aren't wide enough for a dog to get footing it should be ok?

Thanks for any advice!

Do you know for sure he really is part Great Dane?

What I'm saying is, while some DNA tests can't be taken as gospel (especially where some labs databases are still growing), I believe you'll get a more accurate breed indication from them than just visually guessing what your dog is made of.

I had my mix breed dog DNA tested through Orivet a few years ago, I personally found the results very believable, and while they were close, the shelter I got him from were incorrect from their visual assumption of his breed mix.

Having said that, if you do another test through another lab it would be very interesting to see how the results compare.

1 hour ago, Scrappi&Monty said:

Hyenas? 

Not actually Hyenas, but a species of wild dog of Africa:

On 4/5/2018 at 8:48 PM, Maddy said:

I guess it depends on the breed and the breeder you're considering. If it's a very common breed, you probably won't have to wait long as you'll have a greater choice of breeders to start with. On the other hand, if it's a rarer breed or you want a puppy from a specific breeder, you may be waiting longer.

In my case, the breed is less common and I want a puppy from a very specific sort of breeder, so that means waiting. If I get lucky, it'll be less than 12 months from first contacting. If I don't get lucky.. who knows. Maybe years. But I'd rather wait to get exactly what I want, so it suits me just fine. Your situation may be different.

As far as contacting breeders, same, really. If the breeder has several litters a year, it'd be worth contacting them to introduce yourself, but I'd suggest being clear that you aren't ready yet (and will let them know when you are ready). On the other hand, if your chosen breeder only has a litter once every few years, you might want to ask to be put on a waiting list, provided you know roughly when the next litter will be (and if that suits your plans).

Thanks for your response!

It is a more common breed I'm interested in, but I'd like to go with the best breeder I can manage for health and temperament. Some of those I've shortlisted don't seem to breed often, and for a popular breed I'm getting the impression there's more demand.

I still have a lot more time and things to research and see the breed more at shows, but thanks!

My current dog is adopted from a shelter, but I plan on buying from a good breeder for my next dog.

This seems like a good a topic as any to ask, so I was wondering, at what stage is it appropriate to contact a breeder? 

I've heard some people stay on waiting lists for months, to years. Patience is virtue if you're waiting for a great pup, but the thought of waiting so long does worry me.

My situation is that my current dog almost 14 years old, I think it's possible he could make it to 15 though. I don't want another dog until he's passed away.

Is it normal to research, find the desired breeder and stay on a waiting list now, or only once I'm really in the position to purchase a pup?

I wouldn't like to be 'dogless' for a long period, but since situations can change, would a breeder be bothered by early contact? The process is a bit new to me.

Nez recommended me to these muzzles a few months ago:

http://www.fordogtrainers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92&products_id=1457

My dog much prefers this muzzle compared to the plastic Jafco ( good but he needed more airflow). It's surprisingly lightweight too and I feel confident of it's safety. It's a prefect fit since you send in the measurement's for the dog and they have many sizes with adjustable straps ( I think they had about 20 or more different styles and sizes for this product).

Sorry for your loss, she sounds very loved and I'm sure she had a great life.

Good point. I might make the switch after I'm out of Interceptor. Thanks :)

And thank you DeltaCharlie for clearing that up for me.

At the time I was ignorant about it all, but having researched I don't understand why my vet didn't test him first. That made me confused about the whole thing. We are with a different vet now regardless.

I see a lot of people are using valuheart here. Does it cover intestinal worms as well?

Thank you! I'm glad the test isn't needed, he has been at the vet every week for a month, then this was almost due, he's quite sick of the vet.

I picked up some interceptor spectrum chews for him now.

The amount of chemicals when he had the injection was quite daunting, but it was the horror stories that got me. Thankfully he had no reaction to it.

Hi,

My boy has been on the yearly Proheart injection which is almost due again. I would like to switch to monthly heart-worm prevention chews or tablets.

I wasn't aware that dogs had to be tested for heartworm before having preventative medication, my vet just gave him the Proheart injection after asking if he was already on preventives or not, no test.

Can I just switch to chews without a test? Should he be fine after having been on Proheart for a year?

Thanks

My dog had the drain removed after a week. He then developed a seroma, so that was then drained and bandaged tight.

If its causing discomfort, better to have it removed while it's small. I think you've made the right choice.

My dog had a large one removed, though it caused him no discomfort, it would have been better to operate on earlier. The size makes the healing process a bit messy. Drains placed and higher risk of infection will that empty pocket and loose skin.

Hi Ren, welcome to the thread. First off have you had a thyroid test done. The one done by Hemopet in USA is a very detailed one and more comprehensive than is done here.

My boy is also reactive on sight. He is on Prozac, generic Lovan. It's actually not very expensive if you buy from a chemist rather than the vet. The vet writes a script and you get it filled at a human vet. Jakes also pretty committed to his dog phobia, without medication he doesn't actually have to see a dog. He just has to be in a place where he saw a dog before or smell a dog. Medication just have him a little bit more brain so that some of the training can stick.

There is some personality change and we had to play around with the dosage, on 30mg he was too sleepy, on 20 he is manageable but on 15 you get some bounciness. Good for playing but not for his phobias. The first few weeks he will be sleepy anyway.

Without medication I would not have been able to get any training in. I was told PTS by a few trainers and may have done so without medication. The loss of some playfulness is a small price to pay.

Thank you Hankdog, your post is very helpful and I appreciate it.

Somebody had mentioned the possibility of hypothyroidism before in the past, I can't remember why we dismissed it now but to answer your question he has not had the test done. While I discussed his behaviour with my vet recently the topic didn't come up, perhaps I should ask about it.

He won't be able to have a test done at the moment since he's just had a major operation and still on the medication.

I didn't think of getting the prescription filled at a chemist. That's good to know, as the price was a bit of a worry.

Thanks again.

Hi, new to this topic.

I'm wondering if anyone here has their reactive dogs on anxiety medication? If so, does this help take the edge off? How much? Is it worth the side effects (what are they?) or do they side effects outweigh the benefits?

I've been recommended to try anxiety medication by my vet and I'm weighing up my options. It will be quite expensive, and I don't want him to lose his personality when for most of his day-to-day life he can manage just fine.

I can't work behavior modification with him and dogs currently, have tried with professionals, he is reactive on sight. I've tried the Thundershirt in the past for calming, no help. I'm currently trying a DAP collar. I know I have to give it at least a month, but I'm not seeing any signs of improvement as yet. I'm not hopeful enough to think medication will make him alright with other dogs. I'm ok if we just avoid them altogether, but he can be reactive with people, cars, car travel and new places. If I medicate him I'm hoping it will improve his reactions with these things.

Thanks for any help.

Do you have a large enough front yard where the kids could play supervised?

I got the impression they are looking for a dog to run with them, I don't think a cat fits that requirement at all :)

I would suggest the older dog route too. Perhaps don't focus on a breed so much, ask around shelters and let them know your situation and requirements, they should be able to find you a match. Be sure to ask about possible behavioural issues (if any) when adopting though.

Thank you everyone for your replies.

Brandiandwe: Good idea, never thought about seeing if a vet had any.

Thanks also for your kind offer, I'm after a muzzle for a mixed breed (so not a greyhound) but thank you regardless :)

Aidan and Black Jackal: Thank you for the recommendation!

I was wondering about these but thought the ventilation may be a tad better with a wire frame.

Nekhbet: Thank you for the recommendation too. I think I might go ahead and order from that site. Thanks!

Hello,

I'm looking to purchase a good wire frame dog muzzle to replace my plastic Jafco.

I'm a little confused with all the styles around.

Does anyone have a recommendation? I'd like it to be lightweight, maximum airflow and able to treat through (if that's possible?).

Thanks

edit: I don't think I need to go into sizing, but this is for mesocephalic snout type.

Groenendael - Belgian Shepherd.

I have serious anxiety issues etc and Ivy is my guardian.

She's protective of the yard and house; she does guard/warning bark really well. Most people are scared of her as she's jet black and looks like a wolf but she's a teddy bear. She will happily chill out on the couch to watch a movie but the moment you are ready to do something; she's ready!

Grooming is simple, she just needs a brush once a fortnight and every couple of days during her yearly-ish shed. No trimming or shaving. Doesn't shed unless she's moulting, and then it is only when you give her a really good rub.

My partner works late at times and has worked away up north. I have felt very safe with Ivy.

Plus her character makes the most awful of days sunny.

I'm happy to chat privately too :)

I second this post.

While (mine) was initially aloof with strangers, but totally fine after introduction, I also think she would have been dependable if a threatening situation occurred. And yes, the image alone is enough to deter people, the common person was not aware of the breed, so "black wolf" was their first reaction!

I've heard dog reactivity can sometimes be a problem with the breed, but if socialised well shouldn't be an issue. Mine was very dog friendly so no problems there.

Groenendael - Belgian Shepherd.

I have serious anxiety issues etc and Ivy is my guardian.

She's protective of the yard and house; she does guard/warning bark really well. Most people are scared of her as she's jet black and looks like a wolf but she's a teddy bear. She will happily chill out on the couch to watch a movie but the moment you are ready to do something; she's ready!

Grooming is simple, she just needs a brush once a fortnight and every couple of days during her yearly-ish shed. No trimming or shaving. Doesn't shed unless she's moulting, and then it is only when you give her a really good rub.

My partner works late at times and has worked away up north. I have felt very safe with Ivy.

Plus her character makes the most awful of days sunny.

I'm happy to chat privately too :)

I second this post.

While (mine) was initially aloof with strangers, but totally fine after introduction, I also think she would have been dependable if a threatening situation occurred. And yes, the image alone is enough to deter people, the common person was not aware of the breed, so "black wolf" was their first reaction!

I've heard dog reactivity can sometimes be a problem with the breed, but if socialised well shouldn't be an issue. Mine was very dog friendly so no problems there.