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Sandra777

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About Sandra777

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    http://nzwarmaster.tripod.com
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    Female

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    QLD
  1. Yuck, hate dogs licking me. Ours are trained not to, but will lick visitors who let them. Yes, I do kiss them - on the forehead.
  2. If you are concerned about worming her, take a sample to the vet for a fecal count. If she has worms then you can think some more, if she doesn't you don't.
  3. Love weightpull! Hope to get to one in Qld this year (current dog is too young), and get going again with it next year.
  4. To be able to leave the air con running and still lock the car would be lovely - note to Ford Motors!!!!!
  5. A week before mating. But I don't routinely worm, I worm when it is required (fecal count)
  6. AFAIK ANKC registration does not prove ownership - it's the microchip & council registration which has more weight. That said, you need to have included in the contract that the breeder has no rights except as outlined in that contract and that the dog is your property. Marking is a matter of training. If you let the dog pee on everything while you're walking, he will. Humping is also a matter of training. Desexed dogs hump too! (and mark)
  7. Well there's always plenty of laughing when a dog disappears off into the distance, but not derision. Stopping to pee on cones or pylons is always good for a laugh too. They're dogs, as long as they're having fun it's all good!
  8. So the breeder is going to SELL you a dog then continue to own it?? I hope you are getting the pup at a reduced price. Who is going to use this dog - the breeder? Other people? If the breeder wants to breed a single litter from the dog to continue a bloodline I wouldn't have a problem with the arrangement - provided you get a contract stating: Who pays for the genetic testing/x-rays for hips/elbows/eye screening/any other health testing required. I would expect the breeder to do this as none of this really matters to a pet owner. IF you are paying full price for the pup - how much wil
  9. For a pet an undescended testicle isn't of much importance as others have said, but "unwell", I would want to know a lot more about this. That said, it is a good thing the breeder is holding on to the pup - a bad breeder would send the pup off regardless than probably blame you for making the puppy sick Talk to the breeder, ask any question you feel you need to ask - this is a life-long commitment you are making and they should care at least as much about your pup as you do! Good on you for thinking before you buy and good luck with the pup :)
  10. Miss the first class and go the following week.
  11. If she is fearful in the dark regardless of where she is, get her examined by a canine eye specialist. It's PROBABLY nothing to be concerned about but we had a bitch who was very fearful in the dark and it turned out she had PHPV (inherited eye condition). I have NO idea about the eye conditions in Dallies so please don't immediately go in to panic-mode, but this is something to consider if she is fearful even in known places and doesn't improve.
  12. :rofl: Sorry - couldn't help it. Sadly, that's how people think isn't it... Why would someone want ONE unsocialised IW, let alone two
  13. http://www.reshareworthy.com/puppies-run-for-dinner-timelapse/ Is it wrong that all I could think was - OMG watch out for their joints....
  14. Bears out that particular research finding that the husky breed came out in the least aggressive to humans group. (But as the researchers noted, there's still variation within the breed, as for any breed.) But babies & tiny children send out totally different signals. So different stimulus to dog. Which is why, generally, across all dogs, the babies & small children are the highest 'at risk' group. Do you have a reference for the arctic breeds being over- represented in serious attacks on them? Or has it been your impression from media accounts? It'd be good if there were s
  15. We use a human one for ours (as well as other exercise and games) I assume from your user name that you have a Doberman? This will definitely make it more difficult to pick up a bargain as you would definitely need a long one. We have Staffords so need a wider one :) As for what size - measure how long your dog is from front of the front feet to the back of the back feet then double it at the VERY least. This is the belt length to be looking for. Width, we have a 40cm one and that's good because it allows them to move from side to side safely. I've always found it pretty easy to teach a
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