RubyBlue

Dyson is 11months old and still entire. The only humping he has done has been to his soft toys. He has certainly attracted attention at the dog park though. There is usually a dog trying to hump him. He doesn't seem to notice it and the poor dog is left to hold on tightly as he races around.

Milly is generally a very submissive dog but in the last year or two shes started to turn in to the fun police. She tends to stop games that get a bit rowdy for her liking and if there is a particularly assertive puppy she will often tell them off and if they persist then mount them. I find it all quite interesting to watch, particularly the more subtle body language.

There was a malamute at the park today who was fascinated with Dyson. Most other males just do the head over his shoulders or humping but this one was licking around his lips, rolling over in front of him and mounting him. It was almost like he was apologetic but just couldn't help himself. Im wondering if the hormones have something to do with it. Or if Dysons just managed to score a minion.

Entire dogs in the dog park is simply not appropriate! They might be OK but they will attract a lot of attention which can turn to fights.

Any reason why you can't desex your dog? If he's a breed or show dog that is fine but he needs to stay away from dog park situations.

Any dog that humps - if it is desexed, also shouldn't be in a dog park and if it is, it shouldn't be given the opportunity to hump or should be stopped immediately - you can normally tell when a dog is about to do this.

Dog parks are dangerous, it's no wonder.

That's an interesting opinion you have. Is there a particular reason or experience for that opinion 'cause it certainly doesn't fit with my experiences? I keep a close eye on both my dogs (yes even the desexed dogs need to be watched too), and if there is a situation that they seem to be unhappy with I sort it out. The same goes if its one of my dogs bothering another dog. The dogs and owners we catch up with on a daily basis train their dogs at local clubs and a fair few also trial their dogs so are for the most part extremely dog savvy. Many dogs and bitches that go there are entire and this does not cause an issue.

I am inclined to say the reason my puppy gets hassled is because he is losing/has lost his puppy license. My friends dog went through this around the same age but did not cope with the dominance and attention of the other dogs so well so the park was avoided for a time. As I said before, my puppy couldn't care less. If this changes then I will make changes so he doesn't have to interact with such dogs.

Dyson is 11months old and still entire. The only humping he has done has been to his soft toys. He has certainly attracted attention at the dog park though. There is usually a dog trying to hump him. He doesn't seem to notice it and the poor dog is left to hold on tightly as he races around.

Milly is generally a very submissive dog but in the last year or two shes started to turn in to the fun police. She tends to stop games that get a bit rowdy for her liking and if there is a particularly assertive puppy she will often tell them off and if they persist then mount them. I find it all quite interesting to watch, particularly the more subtle body language.

There was a malamute at the park today who was fascinated with Dyson. Most other males just do the head over his shoulders or humping but this one was licking around his lips, rolling over in front of him and mounting him. It was almost like he was apologetic but just couldn't help himself. Im wondering if the hormones have something to do with it. Or if Dysons just managed to score a minion.

yeah the $120 does have largish openings

the new one is only recommended for small-medium sized dogs but seems to have smaller gaps

Dandybrush I have the supercheap auto $120 barrier in a Subaru outback. It fits with modification. I cut the top off of the vertical supports. The only problem is that because of the angle of the backseats in a suby you lose some space in the boot. Its effective at keeping the dogs in the boot and I have one who would have really tested it and has broken though several others. I got it as a temporary measure until I can afford puppybars. So far I recon I've got my money out of it.

I'd have just said something along the lines of 'Dont get me started on people who try and sell mutts, while meanwhile insulting the so called "purebred" parents from which said mutt is made.'

or something like that :)

Like

Yes, BYB are stupid and irresponsible. Yes she needs education. Yes it was stupid of her to offer the pups to a customer.

But Jesus Christ some of you people are out of control. Report her? Seriously? So you want to put her employment in jeopardy just because you know better and feel superior?

From the experiences of others it seems she will need a lot of official reports before they even think about shifting her to another department. She might get a good talking to, particularly if the reports build up. Regardless of what she is selling, it is inappropriate for her to be hassling customers and should be reported as it reflects badly on the company she works for. We all make choices and must be able to take responsibility for them.

Many of the pups we sell go to gran & grannies place in there puppy life until old enough to stay home or for some variety during the week but these dogs still adore there working owners .

Same is true for working puppies who spend their first year in a foster home.

I had a quick read too as I knew nothing about them. He seems genuine enough and I expect the low price is a reflection of the discovery that one of his dogs is not pure. Though to be completely honest, if I was deadset on a dog of this breed, a dog that may have some additional GSD in it, in a new breed that is predominantly GSD anyway (according to wiki 4 wolves and 48 GSDs were used to develop the breed) wouldn't put me off. Especially as it doesn't seem that they are going to be ANKC reg for a while anyway.

His website doesn't mention any health testing or anything about the temperament/personality or any achievements the parents may have. That is much more of a concern for me. Along with the fact that from reading the CzW threads the breed seems to attract a certain type of person. I always worry about dogs which are selected by owners based solely on their appearance. I would certainly hope that he knows how to and does screen prospective buyers extremely well or we're going to see a lot of these dogs in rescue. The fact the ad is on trading post doesn't give me confidence.

Do desexed males react to bitches in heat too?

Depends on the dog I guess but my last dog did. He was desexed at 3. I wouldn't say he went over the top like the OPs dog is doing but he certainly was persistent in trying to mount. Recently a guy brought an bitch in season to the local dog park....My desexed female went nuts with the mounting behaviour, very unusual for her. Trying to explain to someone why it was inappropriate to bring his dog to the park when he doesn't speak a word of english...urgh!

But muuum, she started it!

Well actually....

I actually do believe in desexing, when necessary. (I have never had a dog that I haven't desexed). Obviously, I am not going to get any help on this forum. You all seem to be incredibly closed minded and brainwashed by the vets that tell you you need all of these things to keep your dogs healthy. Say whatever you like in response to this, I won't be coming back.Thank you all for your time.

You can't come on to a forum asking for help and when you get it and it conflicts with your own narrow opinion insult the people offering help and not expect backlash.

Build him up slowly. If its too challenging for him to focus you need to slow down and make it easier for him to succeed. Every successful recall is a step in the right direction and every failure is a step backwards. Don't set him up to fail.

My two guys have a really good recall. THEY have made a game out of it, & if they are both off running together & I call either, they will have a race back to me...do a few laps around me just to tease & then drop at my feet in front for a wad of treats delivered slowly while they gets lots of praise. However, this morning on our walk, the young guy decided that he would wander off in search of fresh young, baby calf poo (there is nothing better). Evidentually, calf poo effects your ears, so you can't hear when someone calls your name. I only called him twice then walked off & left him & after a little while, he came running flat out. He missed out on his training treats & had to wait for second place in the swimming pool. Next time I walk that way, he will be on a lead

My boys nuts do a good job of blocking his ears!

Use something he is highly motivated to get. If he is food or toy motivated then use what ever is of highest value.

Practice short distances where he wont get distracted and only call him when you know he will come.

If you are not sure about his recall don't let him off, use a longline if you need. If you call when you know he won't come then you have taught him that its ok to ignore you. He needs to learn that every time you call him and he comes straight to you something fantastic happens and if he doesn't come straight to you you get him and he goes on a lead and thats the end of freetime.

I would change the word at this point. He has already learn to ignore what you are using now.

There are heaps of tricks to build up practice and heaps of examples on youtube. One I like is to put and handful of their dry food in your pocket at the beginning of each day and when around the house or other low value environment sporadically call them for a piece. My dogs will eat anything but work much harder for human grade food. I find that after a few recalls for only dry food in a high value environment they stop coming in as quickly. I also find that there is a threshold (particularly in my adolescent male) after hes gone 20m or so and is heading for something high value like another dog Ive lost him. I have to call him before hes past that point. When they screw up and get put on lead I give them opportunities to earn 'off lead' by doing first onlead recalls then close offlead recalls before I release. A good consistent recall is to me the most valuable thing for my dogs to do so I pay it accordingly.

Someone else on here would be able to offer better advice Im sure, but my understanding is that it takes a few weeks for the hormones (and sperm count?) to die down after neutering. So it probably won't help this time anyway. I don't know how quickly acting the hormone implant would be but doubt it would be any quicker. A typical heat cycle is about three weeks I believe.

You are probably best to make sure he can't get to her and wait it out.

My old dog was on hills k/d since diagnosis of chronic kidney disease. Hills u/d is also low sodium and protein but doesn't have the fish oil k/d has.

My male puppy does this to my middle aged bitch. It seems to me he deliberately tries to antagonise her to initiate a game. If she does nothing he gives up. They both seem very relaxed and his other behaviour indicates to me that in general she gets the final word.

Are there any other behaviours that suggest this could be a problem in your household? How does your other dog react to him?

Good luck to you and Rory Tassie! Hope you both go well.

Dezzie - do you know anything about the competitor involved in the car accident last weekend? I just heard...

Personally, I would be a bit concerned about getting a puppy that was desexed that young and would be asking if she was willing to let you sign a no breed contract or co-ownership. Its my understanding that the breeder can always choose to upgrade the registration to mains later on. Perhaps you should politely discuss your concerns with her.

Awesome work :)

Been a while since anyone posted on here.

Anyone got updates?

Ill start. Dyson passed his test 2 at Ballaarat on Saturday. He ran the first leg 'up a steep hill' but was casting widely and missed an article, found the next one beautifully. Struggled on the second corner, by now he was looking tired (not a sight I am familiar with) when we finally made it round the corner he settled into a nice pace and then bounced all over the tracklayer. Scored a good.

Milly passed her test 6. Her track was almost overcooked...I was initially told it was, then told it was alright I had a few minutes to do it in. :p

I was also told her's was the hardest track, I certainly got quite disorientated. She struggled coming out of the acute but managed to make it round. I still have no idea where we actually went but got there in the end. She got a very good.

And we all slept extremely well!

Here's an interesting article on humping (via Zayda-Asher!) - Why Dogs Hump

I'm a fan of training a substitute behaviour for something like that - everytime the dog humps, I would interrupt, give another cue (like sit), then heavily reinforce the sitting instead :)

Interesting article... Thanks.

Is there an "official" interpretation anywhere - would be really interested to know. Anyone know?

In the purebred dog world, if you say "purebred" it's taken to mean "purebred/registered/with papers".

Without papers, you can't prove your dog is purebred, anything could have snuck in back there.

So what would you then call a dog who looks like a particular purebred but doesn't have papers? You can't call it a mix or a mongrel.

I still don't agree. Pedigree purebred = papers. But no papers on what has all the physical and temperamental traits of a certain type of breed still is a purebreed to me.

I have a Lab with no papers but was deemed to be a purebred gundog so is now on the Associate Gundog register. My other is pedigree. She is no less Lab than my papered one. I'd say she even has more natural Gundog abilities than the papered one.

Yep Id agree entirely with this. My rescue lab was also deemed a purebred lab by dogsvic purely by assessing her type.

I'd go one step further and say that for the majority of people, pedigree typically means registered with the ANKC. I am sure that there are plenty of breeders out there who keep pedigrees and extensive records of their dogs if they are breeding for working ability (guide dogs, customs, police, ADF come to mind) and I would be very surprised they were using the ANKC to store their pedigrees.

Lab from working lines - too heavily built and legs are too short for a pointer

Isn't it illegal for puppies to be sold without their microchip and first vacc in Victoria?

Another perspective....

What was the reason why you stopped training your dog?

- I haven't, I trial with both my dogs

Do you feel your dog is well trained enough?

- My dogs are trained well enough for societies expectations

Did you not get results from previous training attempts?

- n/a

Is training too far away/ too often/ too expensive?

- I travel 20min to an obedience club and train in small groups with other members of the same club regularly. All in all I can train up to 4 times a week in various groups.

- I pay $40 p/a to be a member. I looked at and tried a few sessions at a private club but can't afford to spend large amounts of money on learning basic obedience skills using 'their' methods.

Are you simply too busy?

- n/a

Did you find training boring?

- I find training at a club boring. I tend to spend 10min in class with each dog then socialise. An hour lesson is boring for me and the dogs.

I like being at an obedience club with a large number of people trialing 'cause invariably several people will have come across an issue I am having before me and will offer different solutions. With the vast amount of information readily available to me I am able to try several things to see what works best for each of my dogs.

Dont see why not. They are a pack after all. When Dyson was younger Milly was quite protective over him with strange dogs.