Patters

Just did a search online. Lots came up - i'm not very good at this stuff, yet.

This is worth reading http://danpritchard.com/wiki/Grape_and_rai...oxicity_in_dogs

Why take the risk?

A couple of years ago, I read about 2 GSD's getting into a packet of sultanas from the pantry. 1 died within the hour, 1 in a coma. I can't remember if the 2nd one survived or not or any long-term consequences.

Until I read about this, I occasionally gave my dogs 1 or 2, whilst I was eating them, with no ill effects. But not now, not any, ever. And it is on the list, in my puppy-folders, of things never to give your dog along with cooked bones, onions - raw or cooked, and chocolate.

Green grapes = sultanas

Red grapes = raisins

Plant allergies ie Wandering Jew (Transendentia (sp?)) causes reactions like this. I have just had a infestation of this appear from nowhere, so I have fenced off that area with chicken wire 'til I can totally eradicate it. Also the white sap from Moon Flower vines affected one of my pups but not the other (brothers) or any of the other dogs, so I removed this from where they liked to lay in the shade. Cortisone cream cleared it up pronto, after a bath with Malaseb.

Over 5 years, I have never even seen the Tom. I hear him, I get up with the torch, I sneak around in the dark and still have not been able to catch a glimpse of him. He doesn't belong to any of my neighbours - small acreages - so probably a true 'feral'. No hope of catching him!!! I've thought about hiring a cat-trap, but so far that's all I've done....thought about it! I also thought my problems would be over if I desexed the cat as she is no longer being shown.

Cynthia,

What is "tardac"? I have had some issues with desexing lately - I have never desexed my animals before, just practised good kenneling.

The 18 month old I had desexed just before Xmas, has just climbed 2 fences and achieved a 10 minute tie with one of my 'on-season' bitches And he is still humping the cat!!

And the cat, I had desexed last year, is still coming 'on-season' and calling and the stray tomcat still keeps visiting and weeing on everything during the night. My cat has always been locked up from dusk-to-dawn.

Oh so sorry to see that Scout lost his battle. My heart goes out to you!! Take special care of yourself, I will be thinking of you!

[Coles Complete Balance

Ingredients List: Rice, Rice Bran, Poultry and Poultry By products, Beef and Beef By products, Wheat Bran, Animal Fat, Whole Linseed, Salt, Kelp meal,Garlic Flakes, Rosemary Oil, Mixed Tocopherols, Citric Acid, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Vitamins A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B6, B12, Biotin, Pantothenate, Folic Acid, Niacin, Trace Minerals including Cobolt, Copper, Iodine, Iron, Manganese, Selenium, Zinc.

Crude Protein 22.0%

Crude Fat 12.0%

Crude Fibre 3.5%

Salt (Sodium Chloride) 1.0%

Linolenic Acid (Omega 3) 0.4%

Linoleic Acid (Omega 6) 1.7%

I think I got them all!!!

Coles Complete Balance!!!

I tried it out, on a girlfriend's suggestion, on Baby Papillons (Chicken & Rice Small Dog) after the brand I usually fed went to 29% protein (too high in my opinion). And they loved it. Tried it on the Irish Setter pup, for the same reason, and she is doing beautifully on it also. My dogs have also thrived on Cobbers for 3 years, but I was looking for a "Grain-free' dry to compare.

Ingredients List: Rice, Rice Bran, Poultry and Poultry By products, Beef and Beef By products, Wheat Bran, Animal Fat, Whole Linseed, Salt, Kelp meal.......Vitamins A, D3, E, K, B1, B2, B6, B12.....etc.

Less than $7/3kg, $12.50/8kg.

Its not their entire diet, I add Omega Oils, Fish, Mince, Bones at different meals over the week. All dogs (large and small all get the same food) have good stools, shiny coats and plenty of energy. And the youngsters are growing at the correct rates for their breed.

sidetracked:

My apologises, Persephone, it must have been my deteriorating hearing.....I'm getting sooo old!

Gretel: I think a baby echidna is called a "puddle"......Such a cute title! I wonder who thought to call them that originally? And why?

vMJv: Having raised Papillon puppies for many years....I thoroughly recommend crate-training. I start my pups at 6weeks with their crates. By the time they go to their new homes, at 10 + weeks....they love their crates, their own safe warm secure place. You won't regret it!! It makes car-travel, visiting friends, going away with dog, toilet-training, meal-times, sleep-times, everything....much easier and safer!!!

Lots of people mistake Papillons for long-haired chihuahuas, initially, but the differences are obvious if you know the breeds.

My smallest Papillons are still usually twice the size of the usual chihuahua and I would be very disappointed (to say the least) if they only had the hair-length and coat texture of a long-haired chi, not to mention EARS, etc. etc...LOL But they probably have way, way back ancestors in-common.

Good luck with your new baby. I hope you have many, many years of love and fun ahead for the 3 of you.

Congratulations on your new puppy!!

My new Irish Setter girl was 9 weeks old when she arrived. She cried, screamed, barked and scratched til 3.50am in her new crate on her first night - after 8 hours of travel including flying. I didn't go to her again after the first, one and only, reassurance that I was there. The next night, she carried on for a hour. Night 3 - 15 minutes. Night 4 - perfect, settled straight away and didn't wet or mess in her crate, or since then. It was really hard that first night, not to weaken and go to her - but the proof is in how fast she settled into her new life.

She is now 12 weeks old, goes willingly into her crate for feeding. And whenever I decide she needs a rest from racing around like a mad thing. And absolutely, no problems at night - right through from 10pm - 8am. Even if I'm sitting here at the computer 2 metres from her crate, she is just lying quietly in her crate, not asking to get out to be with me.

She is now learning about staying down in the covered run for several hours during the day. It is much cooler there than anywhere else in the yard. Again she only complained on the first day - it is Day 3 today and I feel confident that I can go out and she will not spend the time I'm away crying or barking.

Stick to your guns with your training and the results will be worth it.

4 X 700hx900w with springs to fasten sides - I used cable-ties. I also sliced through lengths of old garden hose and fitted it on the bottom (held on with cable-ties) to stop the mesh scratching floor. The mesh is small enough to stop 4-week-old Papillons

getting their heads through (100hx40w).

After reading the original thread about puppy pens/compost frames from Bunnings, I went to my usual Bunnings (35km away) and they had never heard of them. The following week, I went in the opposite direction (40km) to the big new Bunnings super store. Asked for directions to 'compost bins' and viola, 4 of them. $20 each. I took two. May be you should ask them to order them in for you. I need a couple more now for Compost Bins!!!

I'm with Rysup. I don't let my dogs out 'til after 9 am. I put them away later at night. They are really surprised on 'show' mornings, and because they aren't expecting it at 5 am, they are sleepy and quiet. And the horses come bolting....instead of already waiting at their food dishes.

Desexing females, when you are running more that one, stops the nasties they display to one another as they come on seasons.

Desexing males - I desexed my first boxer (supposedly first show-dog, Monorchid, another story) when he was 9 months old.

He stayed a perfect guard dog, protector of my kids and I and my business. He was so good at his job that the local copper and most of the local businesses would have loved to be able to get one of his offspring for the same job. One even bought a dog out of the same kennel he was from ("not a patch on Zac" though, owners' words). I did lend him out occassionally, when certain businesses were being targeted (vandals/thieves), it was a small town and we all knew each other.

He had no personality change after desexing. His only behavioural change was that he stopped breaking his leather collars, once a month, to go search out the newest bitch he could smell. (PAL sent me a couple of new collars that year, free, 'cos they didn't make anything stronger and I didn't want to wrap a chain around his throat when he was on his running lead.

This dog also played happily and gently with small children and their friends.

My dogs respond to both ant-bites and bee-stings, on the face, this way. Usually lasts a day or two. They usually don't have any reaction to bite/sting on their bodies or legs. And I'm talking "little" dogs here!

Sometimes the area around the eyes swells so much that the eye closes/or is held wide open. If the eye doesn't blink, speak to your vet about what sort of drops(can't remember name - Nu-Tears, I think) to stop the eye/s from drying out.

Keep close watch on his breathing also, in case the airways are compromised due to swelling.

If in pain, call vet re appropriate painkillers. Other than that, a warm wash cloth seems to ease the swellling.

On April 28th, my 24cm Papillon dislocated her hip. She got her leg caught in a chair, whilst jumping off.

The x-ray showed she had not only dislocated it but it had also gone in through the ajacent hole in the pelvis (don't remember what that space is called).

The vet anethetised her, pulled it out and popped it back into the socket. He commented before trying, that she had exeptionally well formed hips and sockets for such a little dog. I dissuaded him from strapping her leg up, his usual follow-up treatment, because she had had some looseness in that patella after her pups had been born 9 months earlier. This looseness had firmed up again but I didn't want to over-stress that joint.

I kept her crated for the next two weeks, with a litter tray for the nights, and carried her outside to 'potty' during the day. two months later she had no sign of a limp.

3 months after the dislocation, she was back in the show-ring and finished her title.

Surprisingly, she obviously didn't tear any ligament or muscles or her recovery would not have been as fast.

There were no guarantees that this procedure would work or that she wouldn't continue to dislocate that hip. Obviously, we were very lucky, we have had absolutely no follow-on problems.

If this hadn't worked she would have been up for surgery to wire the hip back in. and this would have cost a lot more than the <$190.

Good Luck with your dog. I hope you have our luck!!

rather than a 'soft people's toothbrush" I would buy the toothbrushes designed for toddlers first teeth. These are what I use - and find them the best for littlies and youngsters.

And you could try chicken wing 'tips" to get her more interested in bones, just freeze the rest of the chicken wing until such time as she is eager to progress to the real bones - no wasteage that way.

Also, you can warm the bones, don't cook, to make them smell and taste more appetising.

Singletons are very common in my breed. So ditto all the above information. They have grown up very well adjusted, almost undistinguable from others who had siblings. The difference I have noticed is that they bond a little stronger to the human - so you make sure you address any "separation anxiety " issues immediately. And prevention is always better than cure in this case.

It is much easier for me now Aunty Nina is around. She has always been a successful pseudo-sibling from even before she was a mum.

I also have a girl, who was one of four, and since I got her , she has had food and toy aggression. Maybe she had to fight for what she wanted. Her aggressian is not bad, but I don't ignore it either. I am working with her on it and will continue 'til it is no longer an issue.

I tried everything listed above on my girl ( + wipe around the mouth with lemon juice - used the bottle sort). Nothing worked for her. She would be sick 5 times driving to the beach (3km). She loved the beach. Loved the car. She travelled 1000's kms before she was 12 weeks old and was never sick. Then the day after her 2nd Vaccination, it started. It stopped the day I moved house (250km north) when she was 4 and now she is 9 and has never been sick again. ...go figure??? It put paid to her show career and put a lot of restrictions on where we took her.I have had youngsters since her that would be sick on occasion, but it only lasted a month or so.

Good Luck!!!I hope you find a solution!!

Edited to add: Except Phenergen - didn't try that

Re: 3 vaccinations: 6 weeks - C3

12 weeks - C5

16 weeks - C5

This was the schedule my vet gave me years ago if wanting Kennel Cough vac. They need 2 to start and then 1 annually.

I don't know if this has changed, re: over-vaccinating info now.

He looks lovely, though , it might be just me or the photo (we know how they can sometimes distort), but I can't see any Pom or Chi in him. He might be a candidate for a thread on What breed is this?

And I am sure you know that he shouldn't have any unsupervised time with the bigger dogs, They can get very enthusiastic with their play, and those little bones and muscles haven't reached mature strength yet.

Also consider that when he goes home to your Mum he is going to miss his new playmates, and she is going to have to give him the attention he deserves and needs and she will have to develop patience to share her home and life with another being - human or canine. And training and caring for the pup is a life-long commitment. Pom/Chi's develope very close bonds with their owners, they don't have the temperment to be stuck in the backyard for just a once-a-day cuddle.

I have a joint condition (Gross Hyper-extension - like HD but with every joint), and although I still take my dogs to my beach(there is usually only me on it) 3-4 times a week, I can tell you that soft sand is extremely painful on my joints. Loose ligaments and tight tendons, the same as growing puppies have, means there is a lot of movement in the joints and subsequent issues of injury.

My dogs are always leashed till we reach the firmer wet sand. Dry, soft sand has lots of give, yes, but the 'give' unexpectedly changes direction all the time.

The other issue to monitor, whilst your dog is young, is to limit their running, playing time. Usually, if they are playing on their own in the backyard , this isn't a problem. But when taken out and meet new dogs or new , exiting environments, they cannot judge how much of a good thing is too much. They won't alsways give up the game when they get tired or sore. Green-stick factures, sprains and tears can be the result and these aren't always evident when they happen - the limping puppy an hour later, month or even a year.

The old adage "Everything in moderation" is a very good thing to stick to with puppies.!!!

Ok, so now I'm confused . I like the idea of -

"

But, I've just read where K9 Force says that 12 to 16 wks is a fear period for puppies. So, wouldn't it be better to wait until they're 16 wks for these experiences? This fear period concerns me and I'd hate to accidentally expose a pup to something I didn't realise would cause fear and then suffer the after-affects for the rest of their life.

How do you balance the exposure to life experiences, while also being aware this is a crucial fear period?

K9 Force says he takes the pup everywhere from 8 - 14 weeks, in the pinned article at the top of Puppy Problems. Just being very careful of both known and unknown dogs. From 16 weeks can be too late to correct a problem that should never have occurred in the first place, if the pup had been socialised (neutralised) properly from 6 -14 weeks.

I have taken the prefixes down - I will enter them into the new database when it's built (very, very soon)

Saves me doubling up.

Feel free to add more in her for me to add.

Thanks K

CLANKAREE can be added also.

Sorry,I forgot to put up the breeds.

CLANKAREE

-Papillons

-Gordon Setters

-Collie Roughs