seregil

Have you asked your vet if he will take them back and refund you? I would have thought if the bottle is not opened it would not be a problem? just a thought

One of my dogs has IBD and I have been feeding him Prime 100 Croc and it has been the best thing ever for him! I worried about the crushed bone too as any sort of raw bone (including ground chicken carcass) was a big trigger for him but he has been fine. It is most definitely complete as balanced (as stated on their website). My dog is 25 kilos so gets 500grams per day (yep! bloody expensive )but he is a 3 year old intact male who needed to gain some weight. No dry food fed at all. Your little dog would most likely need less than the feeding guide. You would at least start with feeding him for the weight he should be, not the weight he is :)

I tried several MFM foods for my IBD dog, no good at all, terrible runny poos. Nor was TOTW. My dog reacts badly to kangaroo, whether it be raw, cooked or in dry food. Stitch, which ever food you try next, I would always change VERY gradually when you have an IBD dog. As I said earlier, it took me a full month to change my dog over to the Prime100 Croc. Any other normal dog would only need the usual 1 week changeover. Some dogs can change from one food to another without even mixing. I was worried about the fragments of ground bone in these rolls too, as my dog does not tolerate bones of any sort normally, but he has been fine, go figure :) Problem you have now is you don't know whether your dog has reacted to the sudden change, rather than the food itself Sueang Royal Canin vet food kept my dog alive for 2 years so it has its place. Good luck Stitch, this can be a very frustrating condition, you have my sympathy

Stitch i have a 3 year old dog with IBD. He has had it for several years now, his main symptom is chronic loose sloppy poos and poor appetite. Pretty well controlled with Royal Canin Hypoallergenic but he HATED eating this food. While his poops were good I always struggled to get him to eat enough and keep enough weight on him. I 'discovered' the Prime100 range couple of months ago when it came through my facebook page and started him on the Crocodile one. He has been fantastic on this! He absolutely loves eating it, to the point that I have been using it for training. He has put weight on and poos are great. I did transition him over very slowly - took me a full month to get him completely off RC and on this food but he has been on it 100% for several months now It appears to be a very good company, all Australian sourced and owned. Once I have used up current food supplies I want to change my other dog to their cooked roll as I love the ingredients and quality. It is getting very popular as Vets are recommending it to clients (lots of allergic dogs these days) so I wouldn't worry about them going out of business. Several times I have gone to buy some from Petstock and they have run out . So I make sure I keep ahead of my supply so I don't run out. I does worry me a little as Croc is such an 'exotic' meat, whether there is any seasonal supply problem that could happen, lets hope not ! I don't think I will ever get my dog to go back to eating dry food again :D

luvsdogs, I buy a toothpaste brand named "Petosan" available through most Vets, also Triplepet do one, also from Vet. I have found both stay on the brush just fine and my dogs love the taste! they start licking their lips when the toothbrush comes out :laugh: I also have recently started using a product I found in Better Pets & Gardens by "Tropiclean" called 'clean teeth gel'. You put two drops either side of mouth daily for 30 days, then 2 to 3 times per week to maintain. I have seen a definite improvement in the teeth, although there was only very early beginning of tartar starting to form. One of my dogs has Irritable Bowel Disease and cannot eat bones of ANY description, no dental chews, dentastix etc, on prescription food only (hypoallergenic) so he has to have a good dental care routine (he is also a show dog so dirty teeth are a no-no!). Even Healthymouth upset his gut, the Plaque off was too difficult to give when he is on dry food only.

Thanks The physics is absolutely clear. Unless the air temperature is higher than your dog's body temperature, clipping will cool the dog. Where outside is cooler than inside, insulation keeps heat in. The double coat is like a good sweater or a blanket. Clipping removes the insulation and allows body heat to escape. Precisely what I was trying to say :) . This is also why keeping these coats adequately groomed helps a lot. Heat can still 'get through', compared to a coat with a thick buildup of dead undercoat, knots, matting etc. And Jules I agree, sterilising makes a BIG difference! Have seen it many times, male or female, but particularly noticeable in bitches that are speyed. I only show one of my two male rough collies - the older 4 year old is a 'failed showdog' but I have left him entire, coat is way easier to maintain. Even so, "spey-coats" can still be managed, they are just twice as much work!

I have always owned rough collies and the ol' "never shave a double coat/the double coat keeps them cool" debate comes up all the time ...... I have yet to read an article (including all the ones above) that convinces me that a long double coat "insulates" the dog in summer. These breeds were bred for cold snowy countries. While dogs do not sweat through their skin to cool themselves, heat still radiates off the skin to some degee. A thick layer of undercoat must inhibit this process to some extent. Ask anyone who has both rough and smooth collies which one tolerates hot weather the best, do you think it would be the rough ???? don't think so..... That being said, keeping double coated breeds thoroughly groomed plays a BIG part in helping them cope with hot weather. I never clip my collies, however they are constantly groomed out, bathed and blown out regularly. Many years ago I did clip one of my very old collies who struggled with the heat, there was NO QUESTION he was way cooler after clipping! I agree there does seem to be some problems with coats not regrowing properly (or not at all) in some breeds. I wonder if this is partly because once an owner has had the dog clipped they do not follow up with any grooming as "they don't need to" as the coat tries to regrow. Hairs are still going through the growing then shedding cycle whether they are cut or not. Dead/shed undercoat then just builds up again. Also, guard hairs are much longer than undercoat hairs so will take considerably longer to regrow so you get that thick fluffy look before the top coat is through. One thing is for sure, I would rather see a double coated dog clipped off than see one that is NEVER groomed and is carrying around all of last year's dead undercoat, matted to the heavens, full of burrs and grass seeds, I see it pretty regularly at work sadly as a Vet nurse. Well that's my take on this debate anyway :)

thanks for the explanation everyone. I did have a look at their website - looks like awesome stuff. I must look out for it and try it for treats too

this is really pretty irrelevant to the original poster but, holy cow !!! what the heck is this food made out of and what is so special about it?? I don't skimp on my dogs' food by any means but that's mighty pricey dog food. I am guessing you don't need to feed much but even so. Would just be interested from the people that use it :)

Thanks Raffikki, I had seen that the Pet Chef has it listed on their site (although more often than not it is listed as "unavailable"..... ). But I would have to buy a fair bit to get it delivered and don't know how my IBD dog will tolerate it yet. I might try and get to Petbarn and try one pack first.

Mim, that is not green tripe, but bleached tripe which has next to no nutritional value. Apparently it is against health regulations for green tripe to be sold where meat for human consumption is sold . Does anyone know of anywhere NOR Perth that sells k9 Naturals frozen green tripe please? I only ever see the freeze dried one in places like City Farmers.

I agree that there are most likely benefits of desexing after a season but what people need to realise is most vets are speaking to "the average pet owner", not necessarily the somewhat more educated and switched on dog owners that most likely grace places like this. It would be hugely irresponsible for vets to tell all their clients to let their female dogs have a season first. Example, just last week I had a young lady ring up hysterical because her 7 month old in season bitch had tied with her father ........... she did not think he would do that I could give you many stories like this. Never underestimate how little some people know about reproduction in their pets !! Same as with male dogs, many people cannot handle an adolescent in tact male. In our practice we tend to tell owners that they may castrate their male dogs FROM 6 months of age onwards. in the larger breeds we will even suggest leaving it til 12 months or so, DEPENDING on the client. As far as incontinence, while it does seem likely more common in speyed (young) bitches, we have seen in tact bitches with incontinence, as well as bitches who have had litters then subsequently speyed in middle age. All that being said, my own two male dogs are mature and in tact, one is a show dog, the other not, but I feel in no hurry to castrate him.

Hmmmm, I have worked with vets for over 30 years and I have NEVER heard a vet say anything like this to a client. As already said, perhaps the client misunderstood, maybe the vet said a "season", not a 'litter' ............. or someone is telling porkies..........

if you can find a 'fool-proof' kibble for sensitive tummies do let me know AA :laugh: . I have a dog with similar problem. I have finally settled on Royal Canin Sensitivity for his dry food. Have tried so many different ones, you would not believe! Let's see, I have tried Canidae, Blackhawk, Taste of the Wild, Advance (probably the worst ), Hills, Earhborne, Meals for Mutts, and many more. I do know my boy cannot tolerate chicken and this is in so many dog foods. Mine is also a poor eater and he will starve rather than eat dry food on its own so I make a casserole of beef or goat plus vege's then mix some dry food with it. Sometimes feed the meat raw but he is not so keen and I struggle to keep weight on him. I do find I have to watch fat content too, leaner meats are better for him. It really is a matter of trying to isolate what your dog is sensitive to - the latest 'fassion' in dog foods is 'grain-free' but really, most dogs are more likely to be sensitive to a protein than a carbohydrate. Makes no difference to my dog if there are grains or not. ...... good luck

i have thought same as you Dave-o, and with lentils being a high protein legume you would think the protein would be higher too. I have to wonder how well dogs would assimilate things like lentils and chickpeas, pretty high in fibre amongst other things .....