espinay2

As for those digging up the ole "links between colour and genetic faults" chestnut, I imagine this can be overcome by hanging garlic (or crystals) over the kennel, and/or getting a priest to perform an exorcism?

Or maybe we could actually catch up a couple of centuries and use MEDICAL SCIENCE?!?

I am 150% in favour of rigorous Hip/ Elbow/ Eye/ DNA testing of all available ancestors before breeding. Which for most breeds and most genetic problems, has naff all to do with colour.

There are a few, where either the genetic issues are present in the same bloodlines, or the skin pigment is itself a symptom of a skin type that can lead to other problems. But even there why not rely on the actual science rather than guessing?

The horrible irony is that by arbitrarily excluding dogs simply on colour, we further concentrate the gene-pool and make it that much harder to breed out the undesirable genetic problems.

What a shame Mr Rolly eyes no longer exists.

Ever heard of colour dilution alopecia ? I'll highlight the important bit for you . Now you tell me why colour doesn't matter

I would add that medical science has yet to find the genes responsible for behaviour traits such as prey/play drive (noting that low play/prey drive as a behaviour trait is required for a LGD and its nature is fairly unique to this type of breed - crossing with breeds with higher prey/play drive can create a large powerful independent dog who does not respond to commands easily and has an increased desire to chase and grab. And when the breed does not carry a colour in its gene pool - and yet other breeds such as the herding dogs also on the farm do - you can pretty well say that a pup carrying that undesirable colour has a high chance of carrying other undesirable traits, such as behaviour, in addition to colour. When these traits can put a persons livelihood in jeopardy, there is a good reason to be sure they are excluded).

People get alpaca thinking they make good flock guards. They may work on the odd fox, but unfortunately this shows just how effective they are with dogs.

Depends what you are after. These folk make some good quality collars which can be done to your specifications. Lots of options. I have bought their 'rescue packs' of martingale collars and their kennel leads to use for puppy packs. But I love all their different ribbons and patterns. http://www.countrybrookdesign.com/

Clean Run in the US. Even with postage it is a good deal.

An important thing to remember about colour is that it is a VERY breed specific issue. To understand colour, its effect and its issues in one breed does not mean the same things apply to another. We should be very careful about applying a broad brush to the issue of wether 'unaccepted' colours should be accepted. In some breeds it may be a good idea due to issues relating to the breeds history and genepool. In other breeds the totally opposite may apply. For example, in some breeds, a colour may be present in the genepool and unrelated to health issues or issues relating to other traits. For example, while 'hailstone' colouration/pattening may be something that has appeared in Labradors and would be interesting to see occur again (See mary roslin Williams' book for great info on 'odd colours such as this), the same could not be said of 'Silver' Labradors which are highly likely from a recent Weimaraner cross (and look it). You would never expect to see a merle Schnauzer as the colour does not occur naturally in the breed. Same with black on a Pyr - with no recorded incidences of registered purebred Pyrs which have markings of black hair to the root, any dog claiming to be purebred and having this colouration would be looked upon with extreme suspicion. It is about knowing the gene pool, distinguishing what does and what might occur based on known occurrences in the genepool, knowing if there is a particular reason associated with not wanting that colour (and in many cases for many breeds that reason is historically valid and needs to be accepted) and knowing what could not occur based on knowledge of the genepool too. Colour is not a 'black and white' issue.

Brooke, this is NOT a good start for you.... Temperament-wise this may not be a pup that suits your needs.

In Pyreneans, black to the root is specifically excluded and has been right from the very first standards which were developed in conjunction with the shepherds who used the dogs. It was excluded as it was considered a clear sign of crossbreeding which brought with it behaviour traits that were very much unwanted. In a livestock guardian, crossbreeding with higher prey drive breeds creats a dog totally useless for its role. Colour can be vitally important in what it tells us because of the traits that may very likely accompany it.

These dogs are working livestock guardians in an area with a high predator load (bear and cougar). They are in a rural location and doing their job. There is a lot that has gone on prior to this and a lot that was wrong with the judges decision. The dog owners were prevented from presenting a lot of their evidence and they were for some reason gagged from using the states 'right to farm' laws which they had every right to use (and very much applies to their situation. There are also rulings in favour of LGD owners under 'right to farm' ). The plaintiffs bought in an 'expert' who claimed TM's were not LGD (which they are) and that they should get a more suitable and 'quiet' breed like Pyreneans (anyone who has a clue about LGD and Pyrs in particular knows they are probably the biggest barkers of any of the LGD breeds ... ). The decision is incredibly damaging and may have serious implications for owners of working LGD all over the US. An appeal is pending.

Both frozen and importing a dog or bitch have their place. It can really depend on what you want to do, what you have, and what you can get. So far I have only imported frozen, though haven't ruled out importing a dog/bitch in future. It has been a long and expensive learning experience, but I am happy so far with the outcome (just don't add up your costs ;) ). One of the biggest things is being able to go and see the dog in person. Sometimes that is hard as it can be a choice of either having the money to import or having the money to visit. It can sometimes be hard to do both so you have to put a lot of trust in what you are told and what you see in pictures and video (I would always ask for video if I couldn't visit in person). I do try to visit if I can. For the US, going to your breeds National is a good way to start. It gives you a general idea of the dogs out there and what you may like/not like, and helps you develop or cement contacts and friendships which will help a lot.

From my perspective here are some pros/cons:

Frozen semen:

Pros: You get to use the dog you want. You get an opportunity to look at the dog and see what it is producing first. You can pick your 'perfect match' for your bitch no matter where the dog is in the world. Can be cheaper than importing a dog, so for the same money as importing a dog you may be able to use several different dogs rather than just using the one.

Cons: Frozen AI can be hit and miss - it can be really successful or you may get nothing. It can still be expensive! (make sure you import the whole ejaculate and have enough for multiple breedings - you may need it to get one litter (or you may be lucky and get several litters out of it)). Some dogs don't 'freeze' well and sometimes what will get a bitch pregnant on a live cover, will not work with Frozen.

Dog:

Pros: You can import a bitch, which may be of more use to you than a dog depending on what you want to do with your lines. You get to use the dog as many times as you want. You get to have the dog in your life, show it, etc etc.

Cons: Expensive! Some breeders may not be willing to run a pup on for the time that is required. You generally have to take a chance with a puppy and hope it will be what you want. If you can't visit the pup you take the risk that it is not really what you want. You can get the dog and find it is sterile (has happened) or the bitch can't have a litter (also has happened). You don't get to control how the dog is raised and have to put a lot of trust in the breeder in how they raise them in terms of socialisation etc (Some breeders are fantastic and put a lot of effort into the dog for you. With some the dog may just be 'part of the pack or a kennel dog and wont get too much exposure out of the kennel before they leave). You have to trust that the pup will grow into something that suits your lines and can be used in your breeding program. Depending on how often you use the dog, you may end up at square one having to import again as everything you own is by or out of that dog.

Has your vet suggested/tried a drug like cerenia for the nausea?

Look for something like PVC raised garden beds perhaps. Like this: http://polyfence.com.au/modular-pvc-raised-garden-beds/

I have actually seen some people use these types of raised garden beds are whelping boxes.

Walk them. I don't take them to public parks and the like, but I don't wrap them in cotton wool, that is for sure.

the other thing I should add is to be aware that stopping labor part way through - if the bitch is happy, not stressed etc etc - is that it could be a 'whelping pause'. Bitches will sometimes take a 'rest' in the middle of whelping. This is actually normal. Unfortunately many seem to mistake this for an issue and end up with an unnecessary cesarian. Google 'whelping pause' and you should be able to read more about that. Myra Savant Harris for one has written a fair bit about it - we are encouraged to 'watch the bitch and not the clock'.

No, never before they start. Giving calcium beforehand can certainly greatly increase the risk of eclampsia. However, giving calcium during labor (once in active labor and generally after first pup is born and between every pup) is when it is generally recommended to help with contractions etc. Calcium Citrate is an excellent form to give as it doesn't need to be given with food (Citracal is one brand - I get the one without the added Vit D). Many in the US use Tums. This is the advice I have seen given by most experienced repro people.

Definitely check with the vet as that is severe in your photo. You won't find the Eagle Pack Large and Giant Breed Puppy any more. But exactly the same formulation (what it has been replaced with in stores) is the Holistic Select Large and Giant Breed Puppy. I recommend this. This is the food the Great Dane Lady (link in Rebanne's post - definitely recommend reading that) used to use before she switched allegiances. You can find it at Petbarn.

I would not personally be recommending calcium supps - usually the opposite is needed....

http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/04/09/slow-growth-diets-for-giant-breed-puppy.aspx

http://www.lgd.org/library/Optimal%20feeding%20of%20large%20breed%20puppies.pdf

http://personal.palouse.net/valeska/Growth-calcium-energy.htm

I have had an Ezycoat for well over 10 years (more like 15 I think). Has never missed a beat. Australian made so parts and maintenance easily available if necessary (I have replaced the nozzle and bought a new filter once). My single motor dryer does a good job with my Pyreneans with good strong airflow. The motor they use now is even stronger than the one in mine. http://www.ezycoat.com.au/

At the bottom end of the price bracket, not long ago I bought a Lantun dryer off Ebay for around $80 (two speed and also has a heat setting). Aim is to test a cheaper model so it can be recommended to pet owners. So far so good - it seems to have good blowing power. What its longevity will be like at this point I don't know, but it seems a good option for those with one or two dogs and/or limited funds.

This is the OFA dentition database form. Yes, Australians can use OFA. http://www.offa.org/pdf/dentalapp_bw.pdf

I am guessing it may be building on studies such as this one http://www.appliedanimalbehaviour.com/article/S0168-1591(07)00160-8/abstract

http://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/agriculture/livestock/animal-welfare

I use Neocourt for the first day or so to treat, but then switch to Medipulv (antiseptic powder) available at the chemist. I find the dry powder clears it up a lot quicker.

Personally I love it and have a close relationship with all my puppy buyers. I love getting updates, and all of them have their own page on my website which I keep updated with photos they send me. I do a newsletter to 'puppy' owners twice a year in which I include news on what people and their dogs are up to. I find they love to contribute.

On Facebook there is a group called 'Australian Dog Show Newbies' that a lot of people have found helpful.

My standard reply goes something like this. If there are specific questions etc in the enquiry that it does not cover, I edit it as appropriate. It tends to cover most though and saves me a lot of time in the beginning. I can then open a dialogue based on their email and questionnaire responses. If they don't get back to me, then no problem. I have had a lot of people thank me for being so thorough and some even come back and thank me, saying that they now don't think the breed would suit them:

Thank you for your enquiry about a [breed].[breed] are a great breed. However, if you have been researching the breed you will know they are definitely not the breed for everyone as they are [i include some of the things that can be a challenge or turn people off the breed]! No exaggeration and often these can be 'deal breakers' for frustrated owners who do not think seriously beforehand about how they will manage these issues. If you think you can adjust your life enough to live with these issues, then you may just be the right owner for this breed. Those that love them can usually not imagine living with anything else, despite the challenges they present. I am happy to talk with you more about the joys and trials of owning a [breed] and their suitability to your home, and answer any more questions you may have about the breed (whether you end up purchasing a pup from me or not).

At this stage we are planning a litter [whenever it is planned, eg 'later in the year' or whatever detail]. The cost of a puppy from me is $.......... Puppies which are to be family pets are generally registered on the Limited Register with Dogs [whatever state]. A pup that is registered on the Limited Register will not be allowed to be bred from or shown in conformation shows and will be required to be [eg desexed, will be sterilised via tubal ligation/vascectomy prior to going to their new homes, or whatever you do]. The pup will be wormed, vaccinated and microchipped and come with a comprehensive 'puppy pack', 6 weeks free pet insurance, and life time support from me (among other things).[naturally here you add whatever the basics are for your own pups].

I do have a waiting list for puppies. However, the list is not 'first come-first served'. I choose puppy owners based on who I think will be best suited to an individual puppy. If you decide you are interested in being on the waiting list for a pup from me, I will need to get to know you a little better first (puppy owners become part of our extended dog 'family'). Attached is a copy of my puppy questionnaire for you to fill out (or I can post you a paper copy of the form if you need one) which will help me start to get to know you a bit more. As many prospective [breed] owners have found, it can also help you decide if having a [breed] in your life is the right thing for you and to help you think about issues you may encounter owning a [breed]. I am happy to help you with any information you need or any questions you may have on the breed before or as you are filling out the form. Please feel free to call me for a chat.

all the best,

I have a standard reply that I send out which is fairly comprehensive. It goes out with my potential puppy owner questionnaire. Easy to do as it is just copy paste attach and gone. Yes, many never get back to me but I always feel at least I have provided them with good information on the breed etc to help them in their decision making. Some do get back to me and some are great people that I would certainly sell a pup to. We need to remember that often this is a once every 10 years or more purchase for most people and for some it may be the first time they are contemplating buying a purebred dog. They often really have no clue what to ask. It reminds me so much of the first time I made enquiries about buying a purebred. I know many of the supposed 'gaffes' that breeders complain about are ones I made myself as a new person (including, I think, the one given above). I am glad the breeders I contacted at the time were good about taking their time to explain things to me. I shudder at how clueless I was, but use that now as a reminder to take the same time and give the benefit of the doubt to all who enquire.