rubiton

Have a look at her trotting and see if she's uneven or something isnt quite right and get a vet check. Hopefully its only arthritis which can be managed

Ours started going lame after a walk at a young age and was on cartrophan courses twice a year forever. Then when she went lame on individual legs rest did nothing but Rapigel helped. We also had her using joint powder from around 10 or 11 years and that helped. My theory was if its arthritis rest isnt going to make it better and wont help the soft tissue if it gets weaker too so treated the symptoms and went out even if it was shorter until she was obviously feeling OK.

She was probably walking the 3km at a power walk pace at 13 but when she had the dog stroke we had to go back to the start of around the block til she recovered. She did start to struggle over the 3km and I cut back to about 2km and walked the younger one on his own as she started just dropping back halfway around (and this did happen fairly quickly one day she wouldnt keep up and then she was OK and then another time she jst slowed right down too - after that I just took them together if it was a short distance to the shops etc). She did have a bad issue with a hind leg about 700m from home once and that wasnt good as we just had to take a few steps and rest til we got back. It did improve with everything above (Rapigel put on before and then again after then hosed off after another hour).

We kept doing the 2km walks which I sometimes cut down to about 1500m or less depending on how she was going (she would get more stiff and sore when she was due for more cartrophan or if it was cold and we wouldnt go far if it was a little warm) but despite major issues in her last 6 months she would still go up to 1200m (off lead at her pace sometime a jog sometimes bouncing her old dog flat out running). She was 17 and did the full 1200m on her last day. But I did try to make sure her walks were around the area near home so we could cut back if needed.

Our council said basically our dog would not be the one in trouble as it was on the lead.

But if you had to drop the lead in order for the dog to defend itself??

Also in the spur of the moment, I can't see myself being able to grab my phone and switch it to video mode to record the incident - even if i was calm and collected. I would be trying to get rid of the other dog from attacking my dog. I can't see how recording is a possibility.

If my dog 'had to defend itself' said attacker dog would be being reported for attacking humans (ie me) and it would be a lot bigger deal than which dog was at fault. When I was 12 our family dog was attacked by the neighbourhood vicious dog (it would attack anything and would roam loose - it was eventually put down) - I wasnt strong enough to do anything and the only reason our 13yo dog wasnt killed was because someone drove up and got the thing off my dog. He bolted home and the only time he ever left me behind he was that scared.

There is no way in hell any other dog is going to attack any dog of mine without going through me first. Which is why mine are taught to stand behind me if approached by an aggressive dog - and I would never drop the lead if I had a choice.

And the last part of your question before - if the aggressive dog got hurt - I would be reporting the attack to council the second I got home. I'd also note any injuries no matter how minor on mine and tell them what happened to the other dog and Id be noting the whole incident then and there. As for at the time - I'd leave they can deal with their animal and I'd be taking the shortest path home.

A lot of good suggestions, thank you all!

I think more than half the time, some owners don't realise that is an offence to have their dogs leashed. They think its within their property, the dog can do whatever. What they don't realise is how dangerous it can be when their dogs run out.

While i also heard that in the event of an attack, the best time you can do is drop your dogs lead. But I have been reluctant at the thought of doing that - not knowing where my dogs will run to (eg chased/chasing onto a busy road).

Just a thought, if there was an attack and one dog does get hurt.... whether its yours of the offending dog, what do you do? If the other dog gets hurt by self defence, would your dog be deemed dangerous?

I asked that very question of our council when I made a complaint about some people who would sit in one of the parks and just drop the leads and let their aggressive little dogs run everywhere (one in particular had charged at us several times and the owner had a go at me when I was roaring at her dog - that was the only thing driving it back and I had a reactive dog and a very old dog on lead at the time).

Our council said basically our dog would not be the one in trouble as it was on the lead. However of course there would be the he said she said if it came to that regardless but if your dog is on lead and defends itself you and it cannot be at fault - so have your phone with you and if you need to take photos do so.

But our council was very good the lady I spoke to spent some weeks trying to catch the people I mentioned and when she did find them they were very contrite even when she explained that their dogs may be the loser if it came to a confrontation. In our area at the time there was the odd guide dog so there are more concerns beyond just walking pets.

SO as I see it just contact council - you can just send an email with concerns instead of making a formal complaint and both councils we have been in have tried to educate dog owners they wont just declare them dangerous on just getting out but they might just educate the owners of their obligations and what might happen (and what they might be liable for)

OK - if the dog approaches and its friendly I'll stop and it can approach us (and usually the owner is coming to collect - you make it easier by stopping).

IF however the dog is charging and is aggressive my dog is expected to stand behind me and I'll roar at it to 'git outta it' and to go home and stamp a foot hard on the ground. This usually makes them think. If they ignore me and rush my dog they WILL be kicked hard in the shoulder (shoulder seems more effective than gut).

All dogs I own will be desexed. Females well just easier than having to manage them on heat etc and takes away one serious health issue that can happen. Males well the family male years ago ended up developing these huge benign tumors under his tail. I cant remember the name but the problem is they ulcerate and if not removed the infection will get into the bloodstream. It was horrific and in the end one was right through his tail that couldnt be treated along with a heap of other issues. He was treated for years by being given a female hormone (parents wouldnt have him desexed) - could have been stopped and even prevented by simply being desexed.

Males - more sooky, more needy, easier to tell them what to do.

Females - more independent, more stubborn, smarter

Our old dog - well if you were at home sick she'd abandon you and wait til the healthy one came home. She was also a very good judge of people too.

Current adult dog - he gets it eventually but where it took the old dog 3 tries to get something (trick, training, etc) it can take him 300 repeats to kinda get the idea. Some things he picks up on quickly but others well he tries really hard to work it out. Food toys - well he eventually learnt the basic food ball but dont even bother with a buster cube and the like. Doesnt get mirrors - will stare at the back of your head wont worry about the reflection.

Female puppy - smart as - all food puzzles as early as 10 weeks not a problem, got mirrors and reflections from the time she could see in them. She will look you in the eye in the mirror reflection and then back at you when you turn around. Can be hard to outthink sometimes but picked up obedience commands very quickly.

What I cant work out is that the contract they get potential adopters to sign says that they are given first option on taking the dog back even after its been paid for. There was also something about commenting against them on social media too which seemed a bit odd. The dog we trialled was unsuitable and they took it back - it took a few days but there wasnt a problem. Clearly for us it wasnt a match as it didnt gel with our household - completely different dog appeared when the foster carer picked it up - we gave them suggestions and it was another two months before it was offered again so assumed they did further training etc but that was a different state to the one being discussed. Im just amazed the guy just didnt say they would take the dog back even if it took a few days to sort.

However we then went with a puppy as we didnt want to chance it again with trying another rescue as our older dog is a bit special and took a little to get back to his routine.

Our puppy hasnt worried about thunderstorms. We had the shocking storms back at the end of September (the SA blackout) didnt care. Then a few weeks back there was a massive thunderstorm that hit. Older dog went all catatonic and she's getting narky coz he was ignoring her and wouldnt play. When we went to look outside (to make sure nothing was blocked as it poured down - roads were flooding). Older dog still sticking like glue because of the monster but the puppy well she wanted to go outside and play in the thunderstorm. The most she's reacted was a look of 'whats that' at a loud clap of thunder.

Fireworks hmmm well both dogs were in the house last week when there was fireworks at a school nearby but no one was home - think they were more concerned that no one came home to feed them til late. Older dog has usually just hidden inside in the past. Puppy doesnt seem to worry about his reactions to stuff like that. Moreso aggressive dogs yapping from houses on both sides when we are out on walks and lawnmowers. Lawnmowers are her greatest fear but we work on that when we can.

we got our crates from Realsmart.com.au - perhaps just compare websites and see which offer the best prices as our crate looks like the vebo ones and realsmart also has puppy play pens of different heights too

Oh ok so realsmart is pretty good? I was going to buy from them but was a little apprehensive because so many people had bad experiences with them. As well as a lot of perfectly fine ones. Is yours easily bent or rusty or anything? Thanks rubiton :)

No - both the puppy play pens and the crate exactly as in the photos on the site. Ordered on Monday nights and arrived Friday in SA

we got our crates from Realsmart.com.au - perhaps just compare websites and see which offer the best prices as our crate looks like the vebo ones and realsmart also has puppy play pens of different heights too

Agree on setting up somewhere not in a crate for 8 hours during the day.

We started from day one (well close to) set up an area on the laundry inside the puppy play pen (which fills most of laundry) she had toys, water, small food ball blanket and fake grass. Early on the puppy pads but they turned into a chew toy within a few weeks so we didnt even finish one pack and have another unopened! Two piece of fake grass so they can be changed over and washed and laundry can be washed too.

As soon as we are home puppy is out with other dog (not that the other dog would even acknowledge her for a month) and puppy play pen is great while they cant be trusted given greater freedom or if you have to answer the front door etc.

Mind you there was one day where she not only pushed the puppy playpen into the corridor but made a right hand turn and headed off down the corridor a little way. DIdnt even touch or mark the walls (so had to push forward to wal thenpush the other playpen panels to move down the corridor). OLder dog as far as we know ignores her and stays elsewhere in house during the day

OUr old dog use to have Heartgard then heartgard Plus but younger dog was started on Interceptor and puppy will join him when she's the right weight (got two more doses of the god awful stuff you put on their shoulder blades - give me a monthly chew tablet anytime over the squeeze on stuff)

We got a puppy pen and fake grass and put that in the laundry when we were not home (OK two lots of fake grass so could be changed over and cleaned as needed). We also put puppy training pads in there too which she sometimes used (and later just chewed up). And as soon as someone was home puppy went straight outside.

But start as you plan to continue - ours was in her crate on the first night - with puppy pad which she used then had a meltdown but didnt take long to get through the night (though seems a thing now to wake up through the night)

I would not pay those types of prices and get one on one training for a puppy. You didnt mention if the puppy classes were a vet run class or an actual obedience club puppy class. We did both started and passed the puppy preschool then went to a local obedience club and did the indoor puppy training for a few weeks til she was fully vaccinated and now are outside in the big puppy classes. The instructors come and treach you the techniques to work with your puppy. Though lesson learnt this week if the puppy is over worked (it too much of a walk or taken out and not made to walk properly on the lead) then outcome wont be as good as expected. Just on 5 months and our puppy is only up to going for a 10 min walk once a day during which we practice the exercises from obedience with other moments allowed to sniff (when not near grass seeds). But all sessions are kept short, very short along with incidental training around the house (puppy sits and stays where put after being told such as being pushed back from something - reward).

Our puppy also lived in pens and not allowed free run. Now we have started to expand the areas as she isnt as interested in things she shouldnt touch and understands 'no and 'leave it' whereas a few weeks back you'd have to actually remove her from an area. But no free run as yet as she collects stuff she shouldnt still but is getting better as she gets older. So dont stress about using the puppy pen - during the day we have fake grass in the laundry and did briefly use puppy pads but she chose to chew them rather than use them.

Have you contacted the council directly and asked them about rulings on puppies? Our recognised the puppy pre school certificate for a discount and just noted to send through the certificate from the vet when she is desexed and while it cost more this year the rate would drop next year.

As for the training discount for adults you have to generally pass grade 3 here for adult dogs but for puppies they recognise puppy kindy certificates as 3 month old puppies arent going to be grade 3 trained but starting with puppy training shows you are planning to have a trained dog

Lab 4 1/2 months. Has washed all bedding this weekend. SHe likes to eat tanbark type chunks so they will disappear properly soon (raked them up today dont think she's been back in there since). I use salt on everything and has worked on insect bites and sore feet on dogs in the past and her tail seems to have cleared up (as in she has not even looked at it unlike yesterday). The areas she flared up due to scratching with her nails improved with salt treatment last week but skin was starting to get a bit reddish earlier and not smooth as normal just like our skin.

And its only really flared late last week - and its only last week we've only just started proper spring weather and the grass seeds have started to spring up so wondered if it could be connected. Mind you she will eat anything she can find so started with raking up the area she's been finding the tan bark like bits but have a lot of other stuff like leaves and bits off trees and plants to try and clear up in the garden if we ever get a chance with this weather during rare spare time.

So the salt seems to help but something else is flaring it up again just as the salt calms it down and if it is grass what we can do as her teeth and claws scratching is just going to make it worse.

I should add the salt is basically bathing with salty water but have also been wetting the area pourig some salt on then immediately adding water from the wet paper cloth - not just salt. And then drying it off with more paper towel.

Our puppy has been very itchy last week or so and have had to use salt on itchy areas on her belly and one patch yesterday on her tail (which seems a lot better today). But similar patch to tail appeared on her belly today and she did spend a while this morning outside on the grass. Is this common (its only her belly that is getting very itchy not other parts that are more covered with hair)? Is there anything that can help beyond salt and then a trip to the vet if it continues? How long might this go on as assuming its the spring grass (elsewhere the grass seeds have now appeared)?

OUr old dog had this at 13 1/2 years and then again 18 months later. The first time she recovered completely and went back to all her normal activity. Second time it took longer but she was possibly home most of the day stressing til she was found (first time was basically in front of me) and I did wonder but within a week she was a lot better and did ultimately completely recover.

I think a smaller attack happened again 18 month later (last Nov) as she had been slightly lame in a hind leg but was still going on short walks but mid walk she got the staggers and really struggled to get home. Next day had real issues and fell over a lot. From there she had more issues with the walking and was on an anti inflam that helped her in those last 6 months - so despite no eyes of head tilt there was a weaker third one.

They call it a dog stroke at some vets - its not like a human stroke its just the term they use here for the condition at times.

I cannot see any problem with what your neighbour is doing. The time and distance we walk depends on fitness but we usually walk about 35 minutes (would go further but my fitness is the issue not his at this time and back when it was warmr we had two dogs so I'd walk the older one a km round trip up the grass and back then take him out). ANd yes we power along and there is no stopping and sniffing except a specified points and then its on the lead and its not for long before we are off again. Dogs can and dog sniff as they walk along and do pay attention to their surroundings etc. In fact ours in their prime have always wanted to charge along on walks (Lab and Lab x) they know where the sniffing areas are and that we will be walking along at pace for the rest of it. And yes most of it is on paths and road edges

Walking is about keeping fit and exercising not sniffing everything in sight - and seeing what is out there too on the lap of the area. When OH takes him out he will head off or try to head off on our longer walks given the chance and at pace. And if given a chance (not freezing - moreso me than him as we have coats and anything out the front door is just fine unless it starts pouring and not when its very hot - walk early when its hot).

Our old dog she was allowed to do what she wanted but at 17 and some days she wanted to run and others notsomuch but off the lead as a mid jog was enough to run her down - though sometimes you had to herd her like ponies but in her younger days it was the same power walk with set areas at parks where she could sniff before we kept going.

We get home dog is happy and will go and sit down but is always up to go to whatever else is on - it took 5 hours of overexcitement at a horse event with the first one he went to to actually see a very tired dog - they are generally a lot better at coping with exercise than we are but if we have a break from walking its always back to a shorter walk and build up again.

Noticed you mentioned bags - have you spoken to this neighbour as if not how do you know they dont have any bags on them?

We now have a young lab puppy and it will be good to be able to walk her once the vaccinations are all done as she has so much energy and would be nice to be able to burn some of that off out walking instead of short bursts in the house & yard but she will start off on short walks as Im sure finally going outside in teh world will be very tiring both mentally and physically.

On walks are you trying to walk past? Are you pulling off to the side to stop and sit, do you have to make her face the other way so by playing up she sees nothing as the other dogs walk past? Look up The Pawman on facebook - he is also in Qld too another behaviourist to consider contacting

Have you taken him out in the car - is he scared there or is he ok (as in a drive to nowhere or if you need to go to the shop to get something etc and he stays in the car). What has the vet said about it?

Around here there are small dogs and there are plenty of larger dogs - border collies, labs or different types, little dogs, a couple of larger ones, a spaniel, golden retrievers, kelpie . We do have a lack of staffys which seem to be very popular elsewhere in Adelaide. Local dog park have also seen a group of Pugs, a few greyhounds, shepherds, rhodesian ridgebacks.

Also a lot of people seem to be happy to buy puppies from interstate - eg labs. A lot of the show labs here now are the 'english/show' solid types and getting moreso with the squarer heads with big jowls while the more common type for pets is the finer heads (though many carry a fair bit of weight) that less local breeders seem to be aiming for (seem to also be known as field or American Lab types).

Where there are more little dogs could it be that people are spending less time with their pets and therefore find it easier to raise the little dogs than a dog the size of a lab that must be trained and if you let them get away with the wrong behaviour at the wrong age you will end up with a problem dog. People seem to put up with a lot more bad behaviour from little yappy things than bigger dogs. There was literally a news story on a few weeks ago where people walked and spent time with other peoples dogs. The dog owners didnt have any mobility issues and one was like 'oh well its good as the dog gets walked now'.

Looking at getting a puppy and all breeders I've spoken are basically from 8 weeks. This is also mentioned in detail on The Paw Man's facebook page when you search.

If you like a boxer and thats what your firs dog is then why not another boxer.

We have a lab and we tried a rescue dog but I dont think they listened to what we exactly needed and we had a dog that was just too dominant over our dog and me so the rescue went back before the end of the trial. Now after being put off rescues (in the past our dogs have been rescues and it has worked) we have decided to get another Lab and look for a puppy. Our dog and us obviously talk 'retriever' so think we will stay with that for the next one.

This is the eye flicking and also often called a 'dog stroke'? If so our old dog had this in 2012 at 13 - sat down was fine got up and was just staggering everywhere and had the eye flicking. She eventually recovered completely from that one. 18 months later she had it again and possible had been stuck all day but again eventually recovered though I wondered for a time there. 18 months after that or so (last November) I think she had another one on a walk but a lot smaller (she had been having issues with a back leg lameness but was going on walks but coming back after one she really started to have issues) - this left her with a lot more weakness in her hind end but she was 16 1/2 by then so it was hard to tell.

As for reoccurance - you cant tell. They either will have it again and you'll know the signs moreso or they wont. My parents Golden retriever had this once and recovered but for a slight head tilt and slight hind end weakness - it took time but it never happened to him again. Someone on the work email forum had a dog that had 2 that it recovered fine from, not so good after the third and didnt recover from the 4th one - again another old dog but they didnt go into details.