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gsdog2

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Posts posted by gsdog2

  1. Just a little brag (compared to the achievements of others on this thread :) ) - after a long break between trialing dogs Indi, my 4yr old GSD, qualied last night and now has her CCD title. This has been a long time coming and I'm just a little bit happy to be back in the ring, especially with this particular girl :)

  2. In relation to your original question: Advantix v Tick Collar.

    Advantix is a topical and is applied fortnight and is the only product available that kills and REPELS ticks and other biting insects. It has an efficacy (efficiency) of 98% and daily searching for Paralysis ticks is ALWAYS recommended for ANY treatments.

    Tick collars: Have an efficacy (efficiency) Kiltix is 92% kill and 50% repellency.

    Preventic Efficacy 52% kill and 27% repellency.

    As you stated you have small children that like to kiss cuddle and could suck the collar it is probably not your product of choice.

    Collars are extremely good to use in conjunction with Advantix (applied fortnightly) and tick collars are to be replaced each 6 weeks for paralysis ticks. (6 monthly for fleas and other ticks (non paralysis).

    If a tick collar gets wet it is still effective, but takes a full 24 - 48 hours to dry out and commence redisseminating the active ingredients. So the dog is unprotected during this time.

    For very high tick pressure areas (ie Coffs harbour, Port Macquarie, Warners Bay, Sydney Northern Beaches, Blue mountains, Grafton and norther coastal areas and Most of QLd) the ultimate protection is advantix fortnightly and a Kiltix collar for 6 weeks and a DAILY tick check (by feel Not visual).

    Re the comments above ie Buying an XL dog size and Splitting it by syringe, THIS PRACTICE is extremely dangerous and totally unsafe for tick protection. The active ingredients of Imidicloprid and Permethrin are suspended in an emulsion called methylpyrilliodine. This emulsion DOES NOT "MIX" the active ingredients EVENLY even with shaking The active particles stay self suspended. So by dividing the dose, you may actually be drawing up pure emulsion and NO ACTIVES, thereby giving one dog a dose of NOTHING and the other dog a dose that is for the weight range stated on the packaging. IT IS SERIOUSLY DANGEROUS and absolutely leaving your dogs at risk of DEATH.

    It is a bit like pouring an alcoholic spirit drink when you see the alcohol at the bottom and the coke on top. The difference being when you mix the drink it stays mixed. Methylpyrilliodine DOES NOT stay mixed EVER. the other additives in topicals are bittering agents to deter other dogs (or children) from tasting or licking off the actives at the time of application, and a stabiliser to assist the product to stay active and keep shelf life until the expiry date of the product.

    Also Ticks and fleas cannot build immunity against Advantix, advantage or advocate whatsoever. A Flea Susceptibility Study has been completed by a range of independent vets from around the world and the results are available if anyone requires them PM me.

    Re bathing and topicals. Always apply topicals to a 100% dry dog and do not bath for at least 8 hours (advantage Family products) After that time the product is in place in the lipid layer of skin which is waterfast for the full period of time stated between applications. It is preferable that you shampoo in a soap free shampoo. DO NOT USE FLEA SHAMPOOS. they are not required. The actives of Imidicloprid are 100% effective against fleas for the full 1 month after application. Imidicloprid kills fleas and ticks on contact within 3 - 5 minutes.

    Frontline has different active ingredients (fipronil) and behaves and works totally different. It has no repellency against ticks or fleas and the fleas still need to bite to get a dose. it has an efficacy of 67%. Frontline needs 48 hours before and after application before bathing.

    Also ticks cannot build immunity to Advantix. They can, however, build immunity to Fipronil (frontline). A recent Flea Susceptibility Study conducted by Independent vets from around the world has been completed and the results have been published. if you would like to see this please PM me for details

    I hope this helps.

    :thumbsup: Thanks for that!

  3. You can use a word as a marker instead of a clicker - "YES!" being the most common but you can use what you like. Where clapping would be difficult is where you want to be using your hands as well (for holding treats, lead, objects eg dumbell). One of the things people often say is that they feel they need more hands when clicker training, and clapping uses both of them! So this is where using a marker word may be easier instead.

    I find using "yes" instead of a clicker much easier too (never seem have a clicker handy when needed :o ).

    I reward Indi with a ball and when she's returning to me I'll clap to show her I'm very happy with her - I'm sure she picks up on my enthusiasm as she seems to pick up her pace and gets a bit of a bounce up when I do this :laugh:

  4. Indi likes to 'collect' clothing - preferably socks, jocks or smelley tshirts but she's not fussy :laugh: . She learnt this behaviour from my Goldie who loves to carry (typical Golden Retriever).

    Her 'special items' go straight to her bed and she uses them as pillows (NEVER does she chew them :) )

    ............. gotta love The Castle LappieHappy :rofl:

  5. You have my sympathy Sparty. I've tried all of the above with Indi i.e. going back to the beginning, use a hose as a dumbbell and wait her out *insert Mr Rolly-eyes*.

    We get as far as her giving a quick grab, but then we come to a complete halt. In fact she will lay down beside me and give me this look that says "this session is now over!!!!"

    Have you seen the Michael Ellis Retrieve DVD?

    I have a lot of his dvd's but not that one - thanks for the suggestion :)

  6. You have my sympathy Sparty. I've tried all of the above with Indi i.e. going back to the beginning, use a hose as a dumbbell and wait her out *insert Mr Rolly-eyes*.

    We get as far as her giving a quick grab, but then we come to a complete halt. In fact she will lay down beside me and give me this look that says "this session is now over!!!!"

  7. Think this sums it up for me

    That number on her sleave could be for any dog sport - I certainly don't do agility for my ego. We're going training tonight and I'll only get to bed after 11pm. I do it for him.

    I believe you're doing it for him - but surely you must enjoy it too :confused:

    I'm not back in the ring yet, but we train every day because it's bonding - we both love it :)

  8. I trained my boy away from o/top territorial barking by calling him in and rewarding him EVERY time for the recall.

    Now for the most part he will bark once or twice and then come running inside for his treat.

    Trouble is this training needs to be consistent. Because of the set up of my yard I was able to rig it so that consistency could be maintained.

    I did this with my Goldie - trouble was he then realised if he went to the gate and barked someone would call him and he'd get a treat. In the end he would bark a couple of times (at nothing) and then run to the back door and wait for a treat :)

  9. I've entered Indi in CCD in a trial 4 weeks away, the first time back in a ring for about 4 years. We were entered in a trial a month ago but wasn't able to go as my OH was in hospital in critical care :( . Those who know me will know the drama's I've had in previous trials (with different dogs), so my goal is to just enter and complete this trial without any drama's and a healthy OH :crossfingers:

  10. We've just returned from a caravaning holiday and at this time of year caravan parks are full of Grey Nomads with their dogs (all types of breeds). 'Most' of their dogs had various outfits, although we also saw a SWF with a hot pink tail :eek: and another in a special dog pram :confused: . I got the impression some of these people were treating their dogs more like children - but they were all VERY much loved :)

  11. At the very least, CHANGE VETS! I think a dermatologist vet is a great option, too. I've been very impressed with vet dermatologists with my one consult (with a rescue dog).

    I actually did the sums last time my girl had ear/skin issues and it's cheaper to go to the dermatologist than it is to keep tracking back to the vet time after time.

  12. Hypersensitivities (aka food allergies) can def cause ear infections!!!

    Thanks for link :thumbsup:

    As a puppy she had a lot of allergy problems after each vaccination. We have now changed to the 3 yearly vaccination and she made HUGE improvements.

    Recently I switched her from Eukanuba to Canidae thinking I was doing the right thing :shrug: . Within weeks she started chewing herself and she seemed to have constant ear infections again :( .

    We have also had wet weather which can also cause ear infections - so is it food or wet weather :shrug:

    This week I've switched her back to Eukanuba, the weather has cleared and the vet is happy with the success of the Surolan suspension. Hopefully one or all of the above is working :crossfingers:

    ETA we've been down the Dermatologist path (admittedly more that a year ago) - that was well before I started her on Canidae. At that stage I really believe the vaccine was causing her skin and ear issues.

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