Henrietta

Yummo! Aloveen vote here too, the stuff is brilliant!

Thanks Dogdude, I will work on the on/off switch. Sounds like it worked wonders for you.

Hey, you will get the down stay with distractions I am sure! Good luck with it!

Rastus_froggy - wow 2 weeks and your new girl has learnt tricks! That's great work. I am thinking of having short burst of training throughout the day, not too long, to keep Abby focused.

It's when we lose sight of what we do and how it has affected training/reliability that causes us to allow training to slip backwards too far and also to eventually wonder why, how and when it went out the window. ;)

That is like my worst nightmare Erny, training wise. Waking up one day and wondering how I stuffed up so momentously!

No, it's been very eye opening and interesting, training. First time I have ever taken it 100% seriously and it has really taught me a lot so far. Even really basic stuff, like consistency and leadership was a bit hard to grasp at first, I knew what they were all about, but had a bit of trouble implementing them. It's been a great learning curb so far, but as you can see, I always have another question to ask.

Hi Emmala

Just remember that dog school is there for your benefit, to later benefit the dog. It is up to you, and you alone to manage the dogs enthusiasm. As you are the one to fork out your money, you are entitled to leave when you please. This is an understated important part in dog school, if you want to keep their mind fresh.

As soon as an exercise is finished during class, I will let my dog at ease, while listening. I do not make my dog sit at heel until the start of an exercise, even if I am a little late to move off when the instructor says to. I found it much easier to develop the "on/off switch" that way, rather to bore them with one long concentration period.

At various clubs/schools you will hear the instructor say things like "while your waiting for me to finish talking, treat it like a sit stay". You dont train for an hour at home, so dont try it at dog school.

The best way for your dog to learn is by training for very short periods (5 minutes) a few times a day. Dont train through the whole obedience routine, just concentrate on acheiving excelence with one exercise at a time.

If you plan to go onto competition, picture the perfect response in your mind, and dont move forward till you have acheived it to the most part.

With a pup that age, or any age in fact, make sure that it is kept motivated the whole time, otherwise, call it a day.

Thanks Dogdude ;)

Yes my instructor is a bit like the one you described, she kind of treats it like a sit/stay. Which I think is a bit ridiculous if she is going to do a demonstration or a lengthy explanation about something. I always end with a sit/stay and that would be fine if we were going to move off again straight away or within a reasonable time.

How did you develop an on/off switch for your dogs? How do you indicate that it is ok to be at ease and then get them back in work mode?

I normally pick out a couple of exercises for my training session, not the whole lot but I have at least one exercise that I know she can do without much trouble and a more challenging one (for her stage). This way I can mix it up a bit, but if she is having to much trouble or get frustrated, I can end on a high note.

Makes sense to strive for excellence before moving on though. We have quite a number of exercises going on at the moment, that need extra attention.

Alright, starting tonight, I will take her out if she has had enough. I am not doing her any benefit from continuing.

Cheers!

Difficult to answer unless I knew what you were doing at home. Has she learnt that at home (during general interaction) that what you say isn't necessary what has to go? Has this broken down her generalisation in training? And could this be the point of inconsistency that's caused/causing it?

Even when you use the taught obedience skills around the home, releases should still follow as well as reward. As to the level of reward and its schedule (ie consistant; intermittent) depends on the level of training she is up to. But be mindful that IF you are going to use a command, you need to be in a position to enforce it. Manytimes that's where people fall down .... they tell the dog "sit" or "out of the kitchen" but because they are not in a position to do anything about it (or it is too awkward for them to do so), they are not prepared for when the dog doesn't comply.

I will admit that under circumstances where too much is going on or I am not focussed on her, I will ask her to do something and it may just not happened. Am I in position to reinforce it? I should be, but sometimes I can't just drop everything.

I do know that consistency means just that, consistency so this really shouldn't happen. I should always be in a position to enforce a command. So I am better of removing her from my presence or removing myself so that I can't command her do something that I cannot follow through.

Having said that, it is rare that I don't have full focus on her when I ask something of her. I have only found on the odd ocassion when things seem a bit to stressful that I let her down. And sometimes I am honestly shocked when she doesn't comply. For example sit. I think she has known almost since I got her. She is not silly, she knows what I expect but ocassionally she'll test me.

And then I am so gobsmacked that she won't sit, I miss the moment to correct her. I am much more prepared for the things that I don't consider her to be up to standard as yet. She can be a stubborn little thing or so I think compared to my staffy, but it could be the way I relate to her as well. I may need a different approach with her.

I like the idea of short bursts of training. I think I am a bit too structured, always the same time of day, same place, same deal. Could it also be that she knows what will happen after practice (a game)? I will start mixing it up a bit.

Great idea about the video camera. I will see if a friend has one, but if not I could always use the digi and see if my brother could come along. Then I could really pick it to peices. With the help of my DOL friends! ;) Thanks Erny

Something to look at from a different angle .......

Is it you who is beginning to tire (doesn't have to be boredom - could be physically or mentally) at training? Flattening out in your responses/focus/enthusiasm? This could have a bearing on the digging behaviour which is exhibited and which in itself can lend towards the boredom of the dog (assuming boredome is a cause for the digging). Is your dog clear on what you are asking? Digging can be a displacement behaviour in times of confusion.

Are you perhaps not as consistant with your training at home as you are at obedience school?

Wow some things to ponder, Erny. I am going to obedience tonight actually so I will see if I can pick any changes in my enthusiasm/focus up. I wish I could get someone to come along to observe, that would be a better way to go about. I might subconsciously remain enthusiastic and focused because I know I am testing myself out.

Is Abby clear on what I am asking? Normally she starts digging when we have stopped and are awaiting the next instruction. Other than that, she is pretty responsive I would say. Just when we are awaiting next instruction her mind wanders off (well from my perspective, like you said she could be confused/bored).

I would like to think I am just as consistant at home but lately I think I have been worrying more about her being distracted. I can see that she thinks that obedience is the place to work, I can see that with how she acts when she arrives and how enthusiastic she is during obedience (except for those times she seems distracted, right at the end). Maybe I have already instilled this in her inadvertantly? That training at home isn't quite as important as it is at obedience?

I mean maybe I feel this way without realising it and she has picked this up? Does that make sense? I do think training at home is very valuable though, obedience is not something you do once a week and forget about. You use it during all your interactions with your dogs for a start, but how to get the same degree of motivation? What can I do to give Abby the impression that this needs focus and enthusiasm?

Would it be rude to have a time out in class and join for the last five minutes, I am definitely not comfortable leaving early, maybe I could just watch on the sideline?

When I see my dogs getting distracted/bored I always pull them away from the group and have a little play. Or if I know my dog is tired near the end of class, I just don't do much more obedience but try rather to keep him focused and motivated - there's no point pushing a dog past its limitations. There have been the odd days where he just wasn't wanting to work and so I decided to just go home instead of making everything worse for both of us.

That's good Sne, I won't feel so bad now. A little game on the sidelines will not hurt and I'm sure the instructor will understand. I would hate to do more bad then good from continuing on when Abby is just not focused enough.

Thank Arya.

It is quite embarrassing when she starts digging at obedience yes It seems to be just 10 mins too long I think. What should I do in this situation? Would it be rude to have a time out in class and join for the last five minutes, I am definitely not comfortable leaving early, maybe I could just watch on the sideline?

I use a combination of treats and tug toy, I used to use just treats, but she works really well with the toys too, I am even thinking she enjoys them more, although she does tend to get a bit overexcited with them.

Thank you, what you (and Sne) are saying makes sense, in a room first no distractions, moving on to the backyard and then to a familiar park and then start proofing. I will work on getting her motivation levels up.

Remember, you and the motivator need to be more interesting than anything else, wherever you are working.

I think this should be my golden rule!

With my toller I've noticed that when we get to obedience classes he KNOWS he's there to do obedience, and is far more attentive and excited about the work. I think it may be partially due to the fact he gets that early socialisation and that really hypes him up a little too.

That is exactly what Abby is like!

We are currently doing a beginners course which I think runs for another 3 weeks. Perhaps I could take a break after it is completed to concentrate on the basics at home like you said. Get her really enthusiastic about working for me.

Thanks for the suggestion Sne, I will keep it in mind!

Hi guys

Where do you train your dogs?

Do you find it is better at home or at a familiar park or oval?

I train my Chi for about 20 minutes at a time, but I break it up into two ten minutes session, with a little game in between. She is just over 5 months old.

I have found that she is much more responsive at obedience or training away from home. Is this normal? Or just an individual thing?

At home she gets distracted easily. I lock the other dog in and the cat (the cat is in love with her and will follow her around ) and I pick up anything else on the lawn that could distract her.

I understand that later on I should be getting her used to distractions, but when we train at home we don't tend to get far. She will start playing in the grass, despite me trying to get her attention. I will get her attention but she will drift off again. I am starting to think she is not enjoying it, but she loves it at obedience. I admit that towards the end of obedience she starts digging the ground. She never digs at home I think the session at obedience may be a bit too long for her (about 45 min?) but she does enjoy it, up until the last bit.

Would I be better off going to another place to train for now? Any other tips for getting her attention?

Thanks in advance.

ETA - am I putting to much emphasis on where I train? Should I be able to get her focussed regardless or am I in the beginning better of somewhere where she works best? I'm a bit confused.

Your better off using a soft, easy to eat type treat, otherwise the time that it takes to eat will interfere with his concentration. The food should be of high value to the dog, so you will need to experiment. They often dont respond to whatever is easy for you to carry around like dried treats.

There is very little lactose in cheese. Use low fat type.

I use cabana, or small offcuts of fresh meat.

That is so true Dogdude. I used to feed my Chi liver treats, but it could take up to minutes for her to eat them (in very small pieces) Kind of an awkward way to do training let me tell you. Now it's sausage type things like kabana or chicken roll or if she is lucky, fresh meat.

She still gets the liver treats ocassionally though for things like after her bath or being extra good (she still love the liver treats).

I will confess that if I don't have any special treats handy, I will use her dryfood. She seems to love that just the same, but I do like to offer something a bit more...tasty for her.

The day I had to put my last dog to sleep, I took him for a final walk and on it, he rolled on a dead squid. Just because he could. I started crying because he gave me that look, as he always did, that said, 'Look at me right now' and he fell onto his side and rolled.

Sheridan, that is such a bittersweet story.

It's amazing how they all have such individual personality traits that we become so attached to.

It's so hard to have to put a dog to sleep, even though you know it's really the best for them. Hugs to you.

http://forums.dogzonline.com.au/index.php?...88813&st=15

Here is a link discussing the C7 vaccinations (which include the Coronavirus and Leptospira like what I had).

When I take into account where I live, I do believe I got ripped off. My vet's have always been so good I should ask them about it next time I'm there.

Sorry Risyntira for hijacking your thread!

Emm, my boy weighed in at 8.2kg.

I had never heard of Virbac only Protech.

Surely 8.2kg is not enough to justify $22! Wow...I think you may be getting ripped of Monie, at least for the wormer.

Coronavirus - yes, that's what I thought too. I live in the Wide Bay area of Qld, not far north enough to be at risk, I expect.

I can live with being ripped off, but I hope that it isn't detrimental to vaccinate dogs against a disease that will not effect them. You know how you can go overboard with worming products. For example using a broad spectrum product such as Advocate if you don't need to. I'll have to look into it more I'm afraid before I can say

Emm,

8 wks was FORT DODGE Protech C4 & FORT DODGE Protech Duramune C2i (C6) This shot done by breeder's vet.

12wks was VIRBAC Canigen KC & VIRBAC Canigen DHa2P (C5)

16 wks same as 12 wks shot. (C5)

Im already getting iffy with my vet $22 for one tablet of drontal allwormer. Last time i buy worming from him!

Ok it looks like you had the same first vaccine as me except you had the Protech Duramune C2i as well. And I had that one for the second shot.

You had VIRBAC brand for the second and third, maybe it's how that brand works? Sorry I don't know much about this.

What size is your pup? I was getting drontal for a Chihuahua for $1.40. I know she is very small but $22 does sound a bit ridiculous. Maybe someone else will know for sure though.

Ok here we go - First vaccination was a Protech C4 - for Canine Distemper, Adenovirus, Parvovirus and Parainfluenza Virus.

2nd Vaccination has got me a bit stumped. All Protech, but three different kinds ;)

Well one is the nasal spray - Bordetella bronchiseptica, Canine Adenovirus type 2 and Parainfluenza.

And there are two others obviously administered together.

Protech Duramune C2i for Canine Coronavirus, Leptospira Icterohaemorrhaglae

Protech Duramune C3 for Canine Distemper, Adenovirus and Parvovirus.

This was as per recommended by the vet, but now I'm a bit confused.

I thought Corona Virus was not in most places? Quite possibly we've gone a bit overkill with the vaccines I'll have to look it up.

I think it depends on the brand of product they use... I'll see if I can find my record.

Mine had the two puppy shots, which I was quite surprised at, as I have always thought it was three, but the vet did explain it to me. Of course annual booster shots too.

She also had the Kennel Cough nasal spray. I am pretty sure the first one was a C3, second a C5 but I will have to check the paperwork. I can't quite remember.

Janba - your post was very informative!

;)

Hair gel.

Ewwww!! It took me ages to get the joke!

HERE's a link to a thread in "general" from a while back on this subject.

Awww thanks Erny!

Wouldn't you know it, I didn't search in general only health/nutrition ;)

Wow, I must remember not to come into this thread while I'm eating

This is even my own thread and I forgot that the contents might be a bit yuk! ;)

Do you have possums where you live? Their poo has a good reputation in the dog world!

Possum yes and bandicoots! You might be on to something SD! ;)

Oh another question

Sometimes the poo has a fruity smell to it. Do you think it could be bat/flying fox poo? We have them around.

Lol Busterlove - I do not know which would be worse to be honest ;)

Only one of my dogs rolls and she will only roll in herbivore poo - not cat or dog.

One theory is that it's an instinctual behaviour that masks their scent from prey. I think they enjoy the smell too.

Thanks Poodlefan. I can live with that, after all it is a managable problem. Pick up the dog doo, and don't let her out of my sight .

I suppose I had never really experienced it before in my dogs, so I was just starting to worry it was something a bit more sinister than just instinctual behaviour. I do tend to worry a bit though ;) I like to be informed, better safe than sorry etc etc.

EFS

Oh good, SD - I was beginning to worry I was the only one ;) I was starting to think there was some underlying health or behavioural issue there.

Yours sound like mine, one would take great pleasure in it , the other not interested!

Yes many people cannot believe that my "sweet little chi" rolls in crap

They don't know the real Abby though lol!