LOLAFOLATA

Sorry, the English Mastiff is what I am after. Hi Andrew, Welcome. I was originally looking at Great Danes but after doing a pet dog selection test, the Mastiff ended up on the top of the list to suit our family and life style. Still love the Danes, but after plenty of futher research and photo surfing, I was hooked. They seem to be great with kids on a whole too. There's a great Youtube video of an infant with his mastiff. ***Word of warning & advice from one who's been burned, and very recently.*** It was difficult to justify to my family the $2.5 - $3.5K purchase price of a registered puppy. I found a BYB 16wk old on Trading Post for only $1000. The owners of the parents were very nice people and their dogs appeared to be well cared for, sound & content. I was assured they were both pure Mastiffs (they looked the part) but they had not been able to get their papers from the breeder. I have no real guarantee that she is pure. Alarm bells should have rung when my daughter and I couldn't approach the puppy at all without bribing with roast chicken - she was terrified of us. We brought her home Anyway, to cut to the chase. Over the coming months, Daisy-Mae will most likely cost me way more than the $2500 I saved. Ongoing behaviourist fees for her fear issues due to poor socialisation. Possible large medical bills loom as she may be already showing signs of HD and growth plates in legs closing prematurely. I have a real "reggie reject" albeit, that we've become fond of, and will do the very best we can for her. Find a reputable registered breeder whose dogs are hip/elbow scored, that socialise their puppies well from a very young age and that will offer you ongoing support after you take puppy home. I don't believe the feed costs are exhorbitant for an adult. Lola (avatar) is 50kg Dane/mastiffx and quite porky on only 2 1/2 cups Black Hawk a day with some chicken mince & chicken wing treat. Daisy-Mae's going thru it at the rate of knots while she's growing - currently on 4 1/4 cups BH with mince & treat. It's the basic vet costs that knock the wallet around. Not much change out of $400 :rolleyes: for annual vacc & heartworm injections. Not to mention quarterly worm tablets based on weight. I usually spend about $70-80 on these from vet for 3 bigguns. Surgery costs - not even going there!!! Hope I haven't put you, or your wife, off entirely. :rolleyes: If you go ahead, I'm sure, with the right match you'll be sold. I'm researching breeders and dogs again already for my next one in a few years when my oldies have gone over the bridge. Doing it right second time around. :) If you're not set on a puppy, there was an adolescent purebred male in the mature dogs for sale (re-home) in Qld you may be interested at looking into. All the best with your search and join the Mastiff thread even if you don't end up getting one. Trying to breathe life back into it just for lots more info, hints & tips and wonderful pictures. Shay

Converted my lot to Black Hawk from Advance when we bought our mastiff puppy recently. So far, very happy with results. Was told by distributor here that it stopped their dog's poo eating because all the goodies are fully digested. My guy's have fresher breath - so maybe it's working. ;) Has reduced the number of pet food bags under kitchen bench too! Was starting to look like pet food section of supermarket.

Looks like I'll be keeping the pet grass for my lot. :D

Top pic :laugh: Mine are selective and tend to go for the newer shoots.

Hi, My vet has told me that if my dogs are eating grass it's because their tummies are upset. I planted clumps of pet grass in their yard for them after reading that it's a herbal remedy pets enjoy to chew on from time to time. My 3 stand and pick at it constantly throughout the day. My older girl has had ongoing tummy issues but our new puppy now copies her and stands and picks at it too. They rarely vomit it up but it's occasionally undigested in the poos. Wondering whether I should remove it or not Anyone else have chronic grass eaters?

You need to be very VERY aware of your surroundings at all times and be prepared to step in front of the dog and tell people to back off if need be. Use your body to block 'scary' people (place yourself between the threat and your dog), do not place the dog in a situation where she will feel cornered. Keep your distance. Approaching a dog from behind is just plain bad manners, particularly at a dog club where people should know better... Something like this may help a little: http://www.k9pro.com...s-DT-WORKS.html http://www.k9pro.com...s-DT-WORKS.html You need to be very VERY aware of your surroundings at all times and be prepared to step in front of the dog and tell people to back off if need be. Use your body to block 'scary' people (place yourself between the threat and your dog), do not place the dog in a situation where she will feel cornered. Keep your distance. Approaching a dog from behind is just plain bad manners, particularly at a dog club where people should know better... Something like this may help a little: http://www.k9pro.com...s-DT-WORKS.html http://www.k9pro.com...s-DT-WORKS.html I like the look of the harness! and you can get whatever badge you want! I don't think a muzzle is a good idea, she is not a biter I actually found a muzzle the perfect tool to make people give me space with my dog. It really makes people stop and think before approaching, giving you time to take control of the situation. The dog doesn't know that the muzzle is anything to care about!! Doesn't matter if the dog actually NEEDS a muzzle IMO if it needs space then the muzzle can be a great human conditioning tool lol. I always wonder about that. I would think that a good deal of people would give the 'vicious' muzzled dog space (which can be a good thing). But some might also see it as a license to pat the dog as it can't bite them? Have you found that to be the case at all? Have been off the air for few days. Had wrong Tuesday - Having first consult with Raelene Tuesday coming. Can't wait! Walks (short ones) are very challenging SecretKei, Thanks for the link to harness. Definitely think I'll invest in one. Jumabaar, This was reason I mentioned muzzle in my post. Would prefer not to have to use one on Daisy but I use a muzzle on our male bull mastiffx just for vet visits and people put plenty of distance between us when they see him. ETA Have absolutely no idea how to use the multiquote thing as you can see :D

Thanks Burkes. Ran into Raelene from ARF at my vet the other day and she recommended Raelene Koeber. Dog obedience class was very encouraging. Daisy went into flight initially after getting out of car. Made her sit and we just stood quietly by the car. She watched as the classes commenced and started to take steps forward. Took our time to get across car park - 15 mins into class but we ended up joining in. She was nervous but not overly stessed. Ended up staying for whole class on the fringes just watching. We did manage a sit and drop and a bit of free walk. She completely relaxed in free play with other puppies. It was great to see her galumphing around trying to keep up with a kelpie - wishful thinking :laugh: . She was even ok around the people because they weren't paying attention to her. As soon as someone would try to touch her though, it's where's Mum - I'm outta here! One guy came up from behind when I was talking to instructor and she freaked. Hopefully Raelene will be able to give us some tools to work on this tomorrow. How do you stop people from approaching your pup/dog short of wearing a sign or having the dog muzzled so they give it a wide berth?

Very good point Gillbear, a full health check also, before her behavviourist is a good idea. fifi This had crossed my mind as we had a rescue lab we thought had poor eyesight that behaved similarly. When there were people or dogs in the near distance she would go off - moreso in poor light! Daisy's been to vet twice in last month and he is pleased with her. Due back in a month for heartworm injection so will ask him to check sight then. Behaviourist suggested I not participate in group class but take her to grounds and walk her around carpark a little once all the activity settles and classes have commenced. Only 10-15 mins or what she can cope with and come home. One thing in our favour so far, that even when in frightened state and not able to escape, she has not resorted to biting. Thanks for advice. Stay tuned. Shay

Have booked with a behaviourist recommended to me for consult next Tuesday. Not registered breeder - first mistake. They did say she was not like the other pups in litter - very shy and reserved tending to watch her litter mates play. Ruled by heart not head - second mistake - thought I could bring her around. I will do everything I can to help her. If she is not able to be re-habilitated and shows any sign of instabilty or aggression I will take the next necessary step.

Hi, As new Mastiff puppy owner, am asking advice on methods to overcome shyness and fear (a concern in giant breed). Have 20wk old brindle bitch, "Daisy-Mae" we brought home a month ago. It took a couple of weeks for her to accept myself and daughter. She still won't go near my husband. Guarding instincts strong as she still barks at anyone in household who, in morning, opens slide door from hallway to family room where she sleeps with my other 2 seniors. This is becoming annoying but also worrying that she doesn't recognise us as her family/pack. We are only going for short walks around our block at this stage but it's pretty slow going as she is balking at everything. Sometimes just shuts down and won't budge - won't even take treats and I have to drag her forward. It is improving, as she is looking to me for guidance, but very slowly . Have been quite firm with her home manners and she is doing well with come, sit, drop, wait etc. Afraid this all goes out the window when she shuts down in stressful situations Have completed 4 weeks of puppy classes where I would have to lift her out of car (27kg)and drag inside. Once there she would just lay down and watch the other puppies (sometimes go to sleep). Occasionally would growl at rude pups and only interacted on couple of occassions in free play time. Totally avoided the other owners - more afraid of people than other dogs although not that keen on them either. ETA She loves my guys (both 8) and she interacted better with trainer's adult male boxers when there than with pups. We start formal training classes this coming weekend. Feel it's going to be a real struggle in unfamiliar territory with so much more going on - cars, people, dogs, noise and planes - being under flight path to airport. Have been reading up quite a bit in this thread on de-sensitizing and would like to get more hints and tips as I don't quite understand a lot of the lingo - sorry Thanks in advance Lola

Hi, Our bullmastiff x boy contracted this shocking disease about 18 months ago. He got a large thorn in his paw at the showground which I just pulled out and thought nothing more of it. After 2 weeks (incubation period is 14-21 days), I noticed he just wasn't looking right. His ears were pulling upwards and appeared to have slight grin. Took to vet who gave antibiotics and only mentioned tetanus but dismissed it as unlikely as very rare for dogs to contract. I went home and googled to see our boy also had all classic symptoms. Contacted vet again next day who was not prepared to treat for tetanus unless on my say so and as they did not have antitoxin advised to monitor for next few days as still thought Tetanus unlikely. That was Thursday. By the Saturday poor darling was stiff as board with laboured breathing. We rushed him to a Canberra vet who pumped 14 vials of anti toxin in with high dose antibiotics and on drip. We were fortunate he survived with no visible after effects. I believe there may have been some damage to brain as he seems to have a distinct personality change. I hope your girl pulls through but you will be in for a long haul with recovery as I had to hand feed our guy for several weeks with rolled up balls of soft food that I would have to throw down throat as he couldn't chew (that's why they call it lockjaw). Boy that was saliva central it's very messy He also needed to be assisted with toileting etc initially then progressing slowly to short walks. It sounds like you may have caught it early enough so best of luck hope she pulls through. Cheers, Lola

Here Here Hotfurball, What tha!!!! Time everyone took ownership!!! Some 20 years ago, (around 5) my daughter was bitten on face by my parents old labx 3 stitches to her face (still has scar). She tells me now, as adult , and dog owner, she was wanting to see how "Goldie" would react to pliers attached to ear and connected to electric fence She was lucky to come off with what she did, and knows it, now!! Goldie lived to very old age and never bit another soul!X Generally, dogs not usually at fault in any aggression scenarios. If circumstances fully known, dog would be innocent victim in most cases IMO.

Was only discussing this very scenario with a colleague yesterday. I have, on a couple of occasions taken one or other of my dogs to local shop and tied up out front where I can see them. They are big imposing looking dogs and most people give them a wide berth. They are friendly and Lola (avatar) loves pats, Arnie BMx more reserved but I could not guarantee how either would react to being approached in wrong manner. I wondered whether I should muzzle them just as a precaution for their safety, in the rare event of being in this situation again (have seen kids want to approach and warned off or some silly adults ). I would never approach any unattended dog, dog lover or not, and have drummed same into my kids and now grandchild. Colleague said this would be good deterrant as a muzzled dog is considered "dangerous" by general public. My concern was that if public official (ranger) saw my muzzled dog tied up in public place would they want to question why I don't have it declared as dangerous. Sorry not very articulate, but hope I'm making sense

I wish these people who sell crossbreeds would at least learn to correctly spell the breeds they are crossing I'm generally gobsmacked when in these types of ads they quote the pups they are marketing as purebred malt/shit/pug and so on and so on. If it wasn't so sad it would be laughable. This makes my pound pups pure ummmmm 3wks old - these dropkicks deserve nothing but just that, a drop kick - bast@#^s

Thanks Hannah will be in touch. Have drifted into both forums but will become much more active to get all the good oil.

I would also like to add that, some years ago i owned a purebred cocker spaniel which I obtained through paper FTGH. He came with all his paperwork. I noticed even then, heavy inbreeding. He had some obvious conformation faults, even I could see. We loved him, but he was an absolute nutcase - I mean nutcase!!!! . Maybe my subcontscious memories of him have prompted the original question. forgive spelling

Excellent question MsBex. This has been running through my mind also Thanks

I have been looking mostly at giant breeds - danes & mastiffs. Only just started my research and this was the first litter that I actually looked into pedigree. Sires were full brothers. Thanks for all the feedback. I am only just starting my research and a pup may be a little while away just yet. I was just curious as, even though I'm only looking for a family pet, I would still like to ensure that I make the right choice for a healthy, sound pup.

I was looking through pups available on DOL for my chosen breed. I was particularly interested in one litter and looked into their pedigree more closely. I was surprised to see that dam & sire were both from the same bitch and their sires brothers. I only wish to purchase a pup as a pet and know nothing of line breeding however, I was concerned that this seems too close. Please set me straight on this subject.

My girl (dane/mastiffx) also suffers this problem. I'm not comfortable with having her on hormone drugs for the rest of her life. Currently on 1/2 incurin every second day trying to increase to every 3rd although she is already dribbling. She was initially on Sibesterol every five days but this stopped working and we noticed her back end became swollen and she was dragging it along the ground (not worms) hence the change to Incurin. I have emailed CSJ UK for more info on their product "Hold-It". Not sure if Sudafed is suitable anymore as it can no longer be purchased otc as pseudoephadrene (drying chemical) is now a restricted drug. Could be wrong here We purchased elasticised undies lge size and pads for our lab from PetBarn. Believe they come in larger sizes suitable up to giant breeds. I am also looking into vetbed material from the Wolf's Den Interesting comment about acupuncture - must enquire. Will also be watching this thread with interest - this is apparently quite a common complaint with, especially, the larger girls

Ali Baba, This is why we suspect the culprit was thorn in pad from showground. Plenty of horse poo in that dirt and perfect environment for the bacteria. Thanks for kind thoughts all. He is almost back to his old self in looks and cheekiness

Further to my last post here are some comparative pictures. The botox look pic was taken on Thursday am before hospitilisation on the Sat and he was worse by Friday pm (eyes were pulled to side of head). Antibiotics alone are not enough and they must have anti-toxin. He has been on a course of antibotics since discharge and has a few more days to go yet. It is a good thing he is a blobberchops which we think helped us notice it more quickly.

Openarms, We currently have our boxer/mastiff X convalescing from Tetanus. First vet thought it was possible bacterial infection, took blood for testing, administered steroid injection and gave course of antibiotics. Tetanus was mentioned but discounted as unlikely due to being rare in dogs. Although to us, our Arnie looked like the Joker from Batman :D , vet did not think his face was showing rigis sardonicus. That was on the Wednesday 3 weeks ago. I googled on Wednesday night and contacted vet on Thursday am to say I thought that it was tetanus but it was recommended I wait until Friday for test results. Test results came back negative (which I have since found out it does not show) and our poor boy was getting worse and advised to continue antibiotics and wait and see. By Friday pm he was having difficulty eating, choking on each mouthful, drooling like a rabid dog and his eyes were on the side of his head like a goldfish. I had to go away on the Friday afternoon and left dog in my daughter's care. Sat am, when I was away from home, family contacted to say he was deteriorating, stiff through to tail and could no longer sit or walk properly. Had to desperately search for vet that could hospitalise him and treat (small animal vets don't necessarily keep antitoxin, something else I found out). Mercy dash to Canb Vet Hospital and vet recognised symptoms immediately. We were fortunate that it had not yet affected his respiration and he did not fit. 11 vials of antitoxin, antibiotic drip and 3 days hospitilisation later saw him through the worst and on way to recovery. He is almost back to normal, with no visible permanent damage, and we are so lucky to still have him with us. The point of my post so long after the original is, that although uncommon, tetanus in dogs is possible and many vets may have never encountered it during their time in practice. Get a second opinion more quickly than I did We think that he may have contracted it 2-3 weeks earlier when walking on the local showground and a large thorn went into his pad and wound sealed over after it was removed (Like that doesn't happen on almost every walk?) . On the weekend prior to first vet visit he was off his food which we just put down to him contracting kennel cough like all the others and he was limping which we put down to rough play as there was no obvious wounds. Do not ignore any facial changes in your dog. Rigis Sardonicus is only attributed to 2 conditions - Tetanus & Strychnine and one other form of poisoning. Once the facial change started he went down hill pretty quickly.