Jigsaw

Just thought I'd add in as an OP on another thread about nipping that my pup is now 6 months and the only thing that really worked for her was the high pitched yelp - but it had to be at the right pitch for her to take any notice. If she didn't take any notice it was a short time out (as in 20 sec). The only affect grabbing her muzzle had on her was to excite her to bite and nip more - trying harder. She is still a bit mouthy on rare occasions when over stimulated and if she happens to make tooth to skin contact an "ow" and turning away is enough to immediately stop her now and play is redirected. Her behaviour overall has settled considerably since her adult teeth came in and she has definitely not bitten or nipped deliberately for a couple of months. Bones and pig ears were a big help too! My clothes no longer have holes or my hands!!!

I've heard of it being bad for the dog's bowels!!! But for the nose - well if it's that really stinky blue vein stuff maybe - but you're feeding it to the dog aren't you? If you only gave the dog cheese as a treat I guess it might get a bit hooked on cheese and if it was the only thing you got your dog to track for maybe it would be good detecting cheese thieves. I wouldn't think it would ruin a dog's nose if just generally used as a treat but I've never done tracking either so can't speak about that.

ETA to fix grammar

If sit means put the bum on the floor and remain there until released...then we should click and reward periodically during the sit...

"Sit"...pause...click/treat...pause, click/treat...pause, click/treat...release

Or should we:

"Sit".....................................pause.............

..........graduaully shape longer pauses................."click quickly followed by 'free command'/treat" - then we can eventually remove the click....

Confusing hey...

There doesn't seem to be a single accepted method.

To teach my dog sit etc I used the "sit", mark (I use a verbal marker), reward, mark, reward, mark, reward, release to help with duration. The dog learnt as long as she remained in position she would be rewarded, then I used a release command. Now I say "sit" and mark, release and reward, with as long a pause as I want between mark and release (watching carefully so I catch her before she breaks), this has established a pretty reliable sit, drop etc, although we are still working on distractions and distance (she's only 6 months). I mean most mistakes she makes are mine because sometimes I do forget the release command and go straight to reward so sometimes get myself in trouble that way!

I guess we all have different methods, different methods for different dogs too! As long as you are consistent with what you do with your dog it shouldn't make any difference what single method you use. Just as long as you are making it clear to the dog what you want it to do.

You can still use a verbal encourager like good, or good dog, whatever you want when using a clicker - don't see why not. Some dogs prefer the voice to the clicker and vice versa, some dogs are trained to both verbal mark and clicker.

The use of a release word means you don't necessarily need to use the command stay. The dog should stay in a sit or whatever until you say free. Generally means you can command say sit, dog sits, mark with click or verbal and then use release when you judge that dog has sustained the sit for long enough ideally before it breaks position, then reward. Be careful you don't confuse your dog by using the click as the release command, if you want a sustained stand you will have to increase the length of time before you click once your dog has obeyed the command and there's the possible problem as if the dog is being clicked for doing a behaviour and then treated but now you wait before clicking the dog may become confused as to whether it is offering the desired behaviour. At least that's how I'm thinking it through. I'm happy if someone can clarify it for me - using the click as a mark and a release??

Hey Hey I have a dog that loves nothing more than ripping up paper and boxes. Nothing is safe with her!! I too tried some work using a phone book and she enjoyed ripping the covers off it. I have now moved to using plastic boxes if I want to get her do some work. Hopefully when she's a bit older I might be able to go back to cardboard boxes.

One thing that I don't think has been mentioned yet is the use of a release cue such as "free" or OK. You could use this by clicking, saying free and then rewarding - might stop some of the wriggles (instead of click, reward, free). You can also then extend the period of time from almost immediate release and increase by small increments as pup gets the idea of things. You can introduce the release cue into sit, drop etc as well.

ETA: you can use your hand to hold the stand as has been mentioned by others to help maintain the stand and then use the release cue.

You're probably better getting in contact and working with a trainer on this one. You need to find the point where your dog sees the other dog but doesn't loose it and then ask for a sit and calm behaviour. It's no use asking for a sit when the dog has lost it, not much is going to go into his brain at that point as the other dog is infinitely more attractive than anything you can do! A trainer would help you find the critical point and give you some other things you can do to help stop this sort of carry on.

My pup had a similar thing - she was swollen in the area for several weeks due to putting stress on the internal stitches! She has now tucked up again nicely (2 months later). She did however end up with a suture sinus (an internal stitch didn't dissolve so area became infected, it looked like an enormous pimple) and was a bit sick with that so even after external stitches are out keep checking site for a couple of weeks after for any strange swellings!

Can't remember exactly how long it lasts, I think it definitely becomes less frequent by 3 months. My pup is 6 months and still occasionally gets hiccups. As long as she's not distressed by them she should be fine.

You could try totalling ignoring the behaviour. Even by trying to distract her you are giving her reinforcement for the behaviour. Sometimes any attention is good attention in a dog (or child's) world! You may have initially laughed (or given some sort of feedback to her) when she first did this, thereby giving her a reward for the behaviour. She now knows tht tail chasing can get a reaction from you so she keeps doing it. Tail chasing can lead to OCD, something working breeds can sometimes tend to.

You still won over the fox!!!

http://www.duralvillage.com.au/

Closest place to stay while doing the course in Sydney. If you can share rates are cheaper. Days are pretty full on doing theory and physical usually start around 9am and finish about 5. Weekends started at 10 am. One long day going to dog club at night.

Spent the day with Owen in Sydney yesterday doing some much needed refreshing before my next prac block!

ETA: It can be handy to take a dictaphone or attachment for ipod to record lectures if you want to go over them again - sometimes you can't just write fast enough or remember it. I also wrote brief journal note for each day about what I did as you can't remember two weeks later what you did!

Maybe because you have concentrated so much on this problem with food he has now become anxious every time food is put before him because he doesn't know what is going to happen to it?

Have you tried feeding him completely separately, containing him whilst food is prepared and set out and then feeding him by himself like in a separate room or outside, no dogs no humans around and watching him (I mean if he's outside through a window)?

Sorry I don't really have much else to offer. Hope someone else has some better words of wisdom for you.

Puppy preschool is really about the owner learning about their pup. There is some socialisation for the puppies and if it's done at a vets familiarity with the vet clinic (weighing, going into a clinic room, etc). My preference would be a preschool where the pups do not have a free for all but rather controlled contact. They don't need to be rolling around on the floor having a puppy brawl!!! It's about you learning how to train your dog, dealing with problems like nipping, health, grooming etc. Ask who exactly will be running the course and the person's qualifications. Ask how they run the class, how many puppies in the class (preferably no more than 5). Go with your gut feeling - if you don't like it you can always be a puppy preschool dropout and find one you do like!

ETA: Is there a GSD club in Picton or the Southern Highlands? It might be worth asking them or inquiring on the GSD thread here.

Good to hear things are looking brighter! I found out too after a heart to heart with my OH that he had been terrified of the dog next door when he grew up, which was a neglected GSD which was highly territorial, so no retrieving those tennis balls over the fence.

Have you read Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt? She has some great advice for dogs that are highly reactive.

At 4 months concentration for any length of time is hard. As someone said I would be getting this dog out to as many different environments as I could and just let it look at things and get used to the world, working in a calm manner, not asking for any behaviours. Don't worry about the focus at the moment. Most of the training should be happening in a less stimulating environment like home.

My pup was and still is at times hyper stimulated and she has been +ve trained, I have had to move right back away from other dogs in class. Trying to get her attention was hopeless, she refused food under distraction, didn't even look at it or sniff it. In a class situation if it got really bad (blood drawn!) I would walk a little way away and then ask for a sit, then we would return to the class. We did have some floating instructors which was good because occasionally they would take her for a walk and give me a break so I could listen!

ETA: my dog is good at home, sit, drop, waits on her mat for dinner! Just reacts to unfamiliar environments, excitement, stimulation overload! But at 6 months she is now much better.

No blood? No yelping? No running away hiding? Sounds like play to me. If she is a pup she will grow and then be too big to drag around and it sounds like she's already telling him off about other stuff. You're probably more anxious about the behaviour than she is!

To some extent I've been there too. My OH didn't want a dog and caused some friction early on especially with her nipping jumping behaviour which was pretty extreme. I had to go away for a week and she was too young to kennel so OH had to look after her. Left him with detailed instructions and when I came back he was suddenly calling her "my dog" and he defends her now to all! But that's my happy ending it doesn't work out that way for everyone.

All the previous tips are worth following up. Get her to puppy preschool. Most vets wash down, disinfect rooms where puppy preschool will be, there's always some risk, but a bigger risk is no socialisation.

Would your wife and kids be happy to meet with someone else, a trainer perhaps, who would explain this to them. Even getting them to go and watch a puppy class (without your puppy) might let them know that your pup is not any different. Show your wife some articles on puppy raising. She is probably a big pup so maybe the dream of a cute cuddly pup has been dispelled and they think they have the horror dog from hell. It sounds like you have certainly put the right foot forward with the crate and pen. Would your kids be interested in helping to train? Has your wife's attitude influenced the kids attitude to the puppy or vice versa? I think it's going to have to come down to being open and honest with your wife about how you feel about having a dog and how it makes you feel about her not wanting a dog. If you're going to keep the pup I'm afraid it has to be all in, you need her help as part of the team.

Maybe he just wants the reassurance of your touch, it may be comforting for him, the nearness thing. I wouldn't worry too much unless he is really raking your hand with his paw and it is a DEMAND! If you feel uncomfortable about it don't let him do it - don't let your hand be near enough for him to do it. Dogs often sleep curled up together so touch/proximity is important to them.

I'm sorry your dog is ill. I didn't know dogs could get colitis. I know humans can get it and is hard to treat and painful. In severe cases in humans leads to colostomy or illeostomy. I hope your dog responds to treatment. I believe they sometimes let them go without food for a while (in humans) so the stomach can actually rest and heal and also to prevent further infection if there is any ulceration. There is sometimes a genetic predisposition for it in humans. The link didn't work for me. Fingers crossed for your boy to get better quick.

I am doing the course at the moment, had one prac block in April and next one is in August. Really interesting, if you have an interest in dogs and want to go a bit further this is one way to go. A number of people who did the prac with me have vet nursing exp, some are breeders, some are groomers, some show dogs and some are just interested in dogs, all ages too! There were some who didn't currently own a dog! Expensive, maybe but most education courses these days don't come cheap. Also factor in accommodation costs during prac blocks.

Can you not use a half-slip/martingale collar on the dogs, this wouldn't slip over their heads? Or is that out completely as well with the +ve trainer? There are variations even within the +ve training world on what you can and can't do. Like most things there is a wide spectrum of views. Ask this trainer a bit more about his training theory and how he expects it to work for you and your dogs. Ask him for a guideline as to what you can expect in changes in behaviour with the drugs and with the training. How long will you need to keep them on the drugs too? As Kavik said the dog has to be motivated too for it to work.

Like Miranda says! Sure sounds like she thinks she's top dog!

A lot of dogs get excited when kids are around. The move fast, make high pitched noises and like to play. Supervision is the best thing to do. You could put the pup on a leash and do some training exercises in sit and stay while you sit and watch kids. Encouraging the pup to just watch the kids play rather than participating, reward him for 4 paws on the floor and calm behaviour, teach pup to focus on you rather than the kids. As Luke W said turning your back on the jumping and not looking at pup, especially not looking in the eyes! Get the kids to pretend he's not there!

She may have been stressed. Sometimes females will mark their territory. It may be a heirachy thing with the other dog. There are a lot of variables. Without seeing your dogs actual body language it's hard to judge. Did she do it early on or after playing? She may be reaching a level of maturity where she is starting to try and be the more dominant dog. If she only does it when another dog is around you might need to confine her outside or in a crate. You might need to shorten the play time together - it might stress her. Watch her body language and behaviour more closely and it might give you more clues as to why she's doing it. She may also just be confused as to where the correct place to go is when she's at another place or simply get caught up in the play and forget. No definitive answer I'm sorry!

You've raised some good points Squeak. Your situation is similar to my own but I am still doing the NDTF! I recently went to the local obedience club to volunteer to be an assistant trainer and was met by suspicion and almost hostilely questioned as to where I was being trained, methods etc by some club members whom I first asked. I haven't yet ventured back but will in a couple of weeks for another look. The head trainer wasn't there that first time and I'd want to talk to him about the training methods used there and get an idea of the club's philosophy on training.

Many clubs run on volunteers so sometimes unless there is a directive coming from the club's committee about training methods they may be limited by the volunteers that they have to help run their classes and limited to the methods that these volunteer instructors know and use. But I think they all have something to offer and we should all be willing and open to learn from all comers. I don't think I've quite answered your question though!