MalteseLuna

That comment also left a sour taste in my mouth. Obviously she is overjoyed the child is back however it's fairly callous to say the dogs could go to the pound for all she cares... especially if they helped keep the child safe... perhaps it was taken out of context.

Hello everyone.

Oddly enough, I registered here some time ago when I was linked by a close friend to a thread about a poodle (named Leo, I believe?) who had experienced serious trauma and abuse at the hands of puppy farmers. In the end, I was so upset by the situation that I struggled to keep up. But I am glad I registered, as I come here now with a positive attitude and seeking advice.

I have been living in Melbourne now for some time, and have recently moved from university accommodation into a large, dog friendly home (large yard, low traffic, large recreational areas nearby. I have been granted permission to keep small dogs. I know that dogs are a lifelong commitment, and are not to be taken into a home on a whimsy. I have been making financial preparations so as to cover the early expenses (the dog itself, vaccinations, registration, micro-chipping, desexing, puppy classes, general supplies) and also savings for the long term for vet appointments, grooming and any emergencies.

I live an active lifestyle with a lot of walking, jogging and travelling around Victoria and interstate. I would love a dog who would enjoy an active lifestyle, but as I'm not experienced with large, headstrong breeds and am physically small, I'm looking at dogs in the smaller size range. I'm not looking to show or breed a dog, just looking for a friend.

I recently went to a pet supplies warehouse (not a pet shop, since I refuse to support stores and especially chain stores that sell live animals) and spoke to a lovely lady who is a groomer, dog owner and passionate about canine behaviour. I explained my situation and, as she understood my concerns about backyard breeders and pet stores, recommended I speak to the breeders here at Dogz Online. She has purchased two of her (gorgeous) dogs from breeders listed here, and assured me that you are all extremely knowledgeable, honest and reliable. Again, I was glad I had already registered.

I mentioned that I was looking at a few breeds in particular, and possibly a pair (though not for breeding purposes - definitely no). The reason I thought a pair may be good is that, although someone is almost always home, I don't want to leave a dog for any length of time without company. A pair could help to alleviate boredom, anxiety and loneliness.

The lady agreed with my reasoning, but suggested either getting one dog before the other so as to dedicate my efforts into training and socializing it, or if they arrive at the same time to train them both independently of each other to avoid confusion. So my first question is, what do you, as experienced owners and breeders, think is best? Is a pair a good idea? Should one be settled in and trained before the other arrived? Would it be better to introduce them both at the same time and train them separately? Does this depend on the breed/personality of the individual dogs?

When I described the breeds I'm interested in, she made some suggestions. I've been looking at West Highland Whites, but she told me they can be surprisingly stubborn if you are not careful, and suggested that a Scottish Terrier may be a better choice to start with. I like both breeds, but I'd loved to hear any advice and opinions you may have for someone who would be new to them.

Kerry Blue Terriers are beautiful dogs, but I've heard they are incredibly intelligent and energetic and can become bored easily. I've also read about male-to-male dog aggression doing online research. Would this dog breed be a bad choice for someone with relatively limited experience?

I'm also interested in Maltese and Tibetan Terriers, Poodles (miniatures and toys), Low-Chens and Miniature Schnauzers. Would anyone be able to offer reliable sources of information about these breeds, or be able to comment from experience?

I am not in any way afraid to dedicate abundant time and effort into dogs. They need to be a priority, as pets are family members and not a secondary-thought. I am willing to put in the effort of learning as much as I can and putting that into practise. I do not want to become a number among those who abandon dogs because they couldn't give them the care they need. I want to be serious.

Any information you have about selecting the right breed, breeder and puppy would be fantastic. Any advice as to their care, community resources and anything else I should consider before taking on this new responsibility would be fantastic. Any questions you may have for me that are relevant to the wellbeing of my potential future dogs I will answer honestly.

This is a big challenge and anything you have to say will be respected and appreciated.

Please ask if you want me to elaborate on any specifics and I will. I'm just trying to do as much as I can to prepare and be certain that I myself am prepared.

EDIT: Oh, and I also wanted to ask you whether or not pet insurance (accident and medical cover) is worth investigating? Would it benefit my dog? Thanks :)

Personally I wouldn't recommend a Maltese as a breed suitable for a very active lifestyle (i.e. jogging, hiking). Just a note they aren't terriers :) They are a very small breed i.e. mine is 2.5 kg. That said they are quite willing to go for daily walks and possibly light jogging (when older). They have lovely temperaments but aren't as high energy as many of the other breeds you mention.

A Mini poodle on the other hand would likely fit in very well with an active lifestyle, they are very intelligent and trainable (Mini's do very will in agility dog sports).

The best way to select a breed is to meet individuals of that breed - at shows, breeders, parks etc. Get to know the personality and traits of each breed your interested in. Terriers have a distinct personality compared to the other dogs you've mentioned.

I wouldn't get a pair, not as puppies. It sounds good in principle but it will make training harder (particularly for a first time dog owner). If you get two puppies they will likely bond very closely to each other, making it difficult to separate them and can make bonding with the humans harder. I would get a puppy now and then get a second dog a few years down the track. When I got my dog she was alone for most of the day as I was at work, but she had toys and slept most of the day. Boredom isn't as much of an issue if your stimulating their mind whilst your home (or giving them interactive toys when your away). Really when nobody is home the dog will likely sleep (that's what mine does :p) and if your walking them, spending time with them and playing with them when your home there shouldn't be an issue with anxiety/loneliness/boredom.

Alot of the breeds you mention have high grooming requirements, are you willing to get the dog groomed every 6-8 weeks (in the case of the poodle/Maltese etc) or learn yourself? Often daily brushing is also required. At $60-80 each groom this is an additional expense that should be noted.

Hello everyone, I thought I would try to tap into the collective knowledge of Dolers and put it out there!

We are moving in December and obviously want a pet friendly rental. One vizsla and another dog to come next year and would love to be able to have them inside.

We currently live in Beverley, West of the city and could live anywhere westside from Semaphore to Seacliff Park! Just wondering as well as the usual avenues if anyone out there has a property, knows someone who may be renting out around that time, or is even leaving their own rental around that time.

Any ideas or information would be amazing! It's do-able but obviously more difficult with the dogs inside. Of course the usual references etc. can be provided.

Thank YOU!!!

I got a really good response from all the real estate agents we talked to about renting with my dog once I gave them a "pet CV" which was basically a biography about the dog/dogs and what I do to keep them responsibly. For example I said that Luna is a small dog with a calm quiet nature. Stated that she is desexed. I explained the level of training i.e. puppy school, obedience, showing etc. I told the agent about all the parasite eradication techniques we used. I gave a reference from my vet and previous landlord (or anyone I could think of that could comment that the dog didn't make a nuseience of itself, was in good health with no parasites and had good temperament). I also included pictures. Anything to basically show that your a responsible committed dog owner who isn't (hopefully) going to allow their pets to damage the property. I did offer to pay an additional "pet" bond to cover cost of pest treatment or carpet cleaning, but in the end wasn't asked to.

We did have trouble however finding a place willing to allow more than one pet, and I had the bonus of having a very small dog (which makes it seem like she could do less damage).

Most important is to just be upfront with the estate agent, it's a waste of both of your times if the property isn't pet friendly and never will be. I asked all agents upfront (before viewing) if the owners would consider tenants with a dog (or in your case two), I made sure to make comments about how well behaved dog my dog was as well.

I can't help with tips on how to stop it - besides using a toy to distract her or something.

Your sisters comment made me laugh - no I don't think it's a purebred thing but rather a puppy thing... Nor are purebreds mentally unstable :p

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My brother in law has a staffy cross which went suddenly blind at age 4/5, she has SARDS (i think).

It took a few months for her to adjust, house was completely safe proofed and nothing is ever moved. She has now learnt the layout of the house and where things are. She navigates well and is even playing "fetch" again (sort of).

Was the dog born blind or developed blindness?

Fantastic, you're a big help! I'll look out for eagle pack this afternoon.

I wasn't aware not to feed her extras as well, she gets so excited about 'real' food lol, I think I'll stick with dry, maybe its the extras going right through her.

I'm not saying don't do it - just make sure that you've researched what your adding and that it's not putting the nutrient levels out of proportion. You could always ask some of the raw feeders (I think there is a thread) about it i.e. how much and what :)

Hey all,

This is my first post here! I am also soon to be a first time dog owner so I am trying to get as much information as possible. I have read numerous puppy books as well as contact 20+ breeders of Siberian Huskies.

Regarding toilet training and confinement I have taken some notes.

Could some experienced dog owners please let me know If I have everything covered and that it is correct.

• Crate to be used overnight and when I do not have time to give the pup 100% supervision.

• Play Pen for when I am out of the house and the dog is still young (needs to have crate, toys, water and a toilet area)

• Take the dog out to go to the toilet every hour to hour and a half. Use leash.

• Stand still with the dog until it goes to the toilet. Once it has completed going to the toilet make sure to praise and reward the pup. Usually pees very quickly then poos a minute or two after.

• Best time to play with the pup is right after it has been to the toilet. Play with him in the play pen.

• No food or water 2-3 hours before bed. Chew toy with kibble in crate is fine.

• Play with the pup right up until you want to go to bed to tire him and to make sure he sleeps well.

• Toilet right before bed too and first thing in the morning.

• During the night wake the pup every 3 hours for a toilet break. Do not praise the pup during the night, other than a quick “good puppy”.

• If you wake up during the night and hear the dog crying/barking take him outside to go to the toilet. Again, no praise.

• Every 3 nights increase the time between toilet breaks by 15-30 minutes. As long as the pup has not had an incident over those 3 nights.

• Gradually give the pup more space the better he is potty trained. Do not give him free run of the house until you are 100% sure he is well potty trained.

• The pup will sniff, circle when they are feeling they need to go to the toilet. Must pay attention at all times.

• Only allow the pup to chew on a kong chew toy which is stuffed with kibble. This will teach the dog to only play with this type of toy and by stuffing it with kibble will keep the pup busy trying to get it out as well as being rewarded by using this toy.

Thanks in advance! Any help would be fantastic!

Cheers

Michael

Hi Michael,

Few comments:

I'm not sure I would restrict water for a puppy, you don't want the puppy getting dehydrated which could happen quickly if it has no access for many hours (2-3 hrs before bed and then 6-8 hrs whilst sleeping).

There are other types of chew toys rather than kongs and a kong may not be great during teething.

I generally praise during the toileting rather than after it's completed, this helps connect the praise with the behaviour (peeing in the right place).

Most pups may also need to toilet after naps/sleeping and play sessions. Watch for the signs i.e. sniffing ground and circling. They can be very very quick.

Don't punish a puppy for toileting in the wrong place. Particularly after the fact.

Good luck - sounds like your very prepared and have been doing lots of research!!

The breeder was feeding her Optimum supmarket crap, I will not feed my dogs junk, I'd rather a good brand with some actual nutrition in it.

Maltese Luna my adult dog goes once a day in the early morning and gets fed the same as the puppy so perhaps it's not actually the food, but I was under the impression to much protein wasnt good for puppies growth, but I'm no expert.

Now that I have 2 I'm wanting to change brands anyway to something I can buy from a store as TOtW is online which is ok for 1 dog but 2kgs between 2 dogs and we're chewing through it real quick.

She gets fed once in the morning and I leave biscuits out all day for them to eat at leisure (this works for us perfectly). The morning meal is normally sardines or egg, maybe I should look at mince or something?

Yes too much protein might not be food - there are some grain free foods that are 40% but others that are closer to 25%. For example the Salmon/fish Canidae one is close to 40% protein but I think the lamb one is 25%. So perhaps choose one with about 25% protein rather than the 40% options.

Petbarn has Natural Balance (or something like that) which is okay as well as Eaglepack holistic. I just don't particularly like Science Diet, Eukanuba, Royal Canin which all have fairly high amounts of grain fillers (also beet pulp which can cause staining in white dogs...so something I avoid).

Sardines and egg sound okay, although personally if I was feeding a puppy I would stick to either raw or kibble as adding extras could put the nutrient levels out of whack. This could be "wrong" thinking though? I wouldn't feed mince, unless its good quality pet mince. Apparently dogs need mince which has a certain level of calcium from bones which normally human grade mince doesn't have and the pet mince sold at supermarkets is often full of rubbish. Again I'm not an expert at raw feeding so am not sure.

She is on what I feed the older one at the moment Taste of The Wild which is an all life stage diet but I don't imagine too good for puppies so I really need to get her on food of her own. TOTW is grain free.

I'm going to Pet Barn after work I'll have to study the labels.

Her stools are formed but lots of them! She would poop 2-3 times a day, I don't remember my first going this much.

Maybe it's not the food but rather the fact that she is a puppy thats the "reason" for her going so often. My dog (adult) goes 2 times a day, once in the morning and once after dinner - generally. I could easily imagine that she might have gone 3 times a day when she was younger... I forget. 2-3 times a day doesn't seem out of the norm to me. How many times a day do you feed her and does she get treats outside of meal times? This could also contribute to 2-3 (or more) stools a day rather than 2.

All life stage is fine for puppies - most of the ones I suggested are all life stage foods. Isn't Taste of the Wild made by Eukanuba? or is it made by Ziwipeak? You generally just feed more for a puppy compared to an Adult.

I imagined that "alot" was like 3+ times a day.

I have been asked by our local council for some ideas as to what Council can do for dog owners so I am looking for some ideas.

What does your local council do or what would you like to see them do?

They are considering a dog park as one idea, what do you like and dislike about your local one - other than uncontrolled dogs of course.

I have a few ideas of my own such as low cost desexing but would love some new ones

I would like more dog parks (or parks where dogs are allowed off-leash, could only be during specific times). I would like dog parks to have fenced areas and small dog specific areas (i.e. only small dogs are allowed in a specific fenced area).

Also perhaps subsidising or supplying a dog trainer for obedience training in one of the dog parks (weekly events..?).

Dog fun days are a good idea :)

As the title says I'm off today to buy new dry food for my puppy to hopefully help the amount of output we have at the moment!! Any recs?

At the moment I'm thinking Royal Canin or the likes.

I forgot how much puppies poop, flipping heck, sooo much poop!!!

I like Eagle pack Holistic, Canidae, Black Hawk Holistic.

I don't like Royal Canin as it has lots of fillers (grains) - these aren't very nutritious for dogs and some dogs have issues when eating diets filled with them i.e. my Maltese had horrific tear staining and itchy feet.

Try to avoid anything that has Wheat/Corn listed high up on the ingredients list.

How much is she pooping and what were you feeding before? Remember to make the transition slow or it may cause an increase in loose stools!

That story is so sad it nearly made me cry - especially the bit about the dog being hurt because nobody "liked" her anymore because she was wearing a a muzzle.

Somebody did something similar at Mildura this morning as well (twice!!!) - a 44 year old woman. Though perhaps not violent she did release dozens of animals according to SMH. Police found her near her car which held 3 dogs.

I have a similar seat and find it great for my Maltese. She used to get very car sick and still is very anxious riding in the car but her car seat makes her the most relaxed.

I bought mine from pet edge in the USA :) my parents brought it back for me after I got it shipped to my grandparents in the usa

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Abbey

Addie

AJ

Ajanta

Akira

Alera

Ali x 2

Alice x2

Alika

Alchemy

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Amy x 2

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Aneira

Annie x 2

Anastacia (Annie)

Angel X 6

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Gael

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Gemma x 5

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Genevieve

George

Georgea

Gertrude

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Ginny

Gina

Gita

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Grace x 2

Griffin x 2

GT

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Hayley x2

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Heidi x2

Holly x 7

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Hope

Imme

Imogen - Imy

Indi

India x 2

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Ingrid

Iris

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Jessi

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Jessie x 4

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KC

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Keira

Keirra

Keisha x 2

Kelli

Kelly

Kelsey

Kenzie

Kibah

Kiesha

Kimba

Kira

Kirah -- pronounced "Ki-RAH" (the"Ki" sounding like that in "kid")

Kiri

Kiri-Lu

Kirra (agility name Kiz)

Kishka (called Kish most of the time)

Kisses

Kitty

Kizzey

Krissy

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Lacey x 2

Latte

Lady

Layla x 2

Lea (lele)

Leader

Leia

Leila

Lexi x 4

Lexie

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Lily x 4

Lizzy

Lobo

Logan

Lola x 3

Lolly

Lotta (as in Li'l Lotta)

Lottie

Lucia

Lucky (yes, a bit tacky, but I loved her)

Lucy x6

Lucinda

Luka

Lulu

Luna x2

Luuka

Mable

Mac

Maddie x2

Maddison

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Magali

Maggie x3

Magic x2

Maia

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Marina

Mary

Marlo

Matilda

Matilda-Rose

Max

Maya

Meeka

Meg x 2

Meisha

Meggz

Merrique

Mia X 3

Midge

Miekah

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Mika

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Milla

Millie x5 (Milli)

Mimi

Mindy x 2

Minky

Minnie x 2 (Mynni)

Minouche

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Mischka

Misha

Missy

Missie

Mistletoe

Misty

Mitzi

Molly x 9

Molly Coddle

Monet

Moochie

Mung Bean

Mya

Nala

Nandi

Narla x2

Natasha

Nellie

Nena

Ness

Nora

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Olivia

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Pagan x 3

Panda x 2

Paris

Paxy

Pchelka

Pearl

Pebbles

Peggie

Penelope

Penny x 3

Pennylane

Pepper x 4

Perry

Phoebe x 2

Phoenix

Pink

Pip x 2

Pippin

Piper x 2

Pixie

Polly x 2

Poochie

Popcorn

Poppy

Porridge

Porscha

Possum

Poung

Prada

Priah

Quince

Quinn x 2

Rani

Razzle

Reba

Rebel

Reggie (Regina)

Reno

Rhoda

Riki

Ricky

River

Rizzi

Rogue

Rommi

Rose

Rosey

Rosie O'Grady (sweet rosie O to her friends)

Rosie x 2

Roxie

Roxy x 4

Ruby x 7

Rilla

Rumour

Sabine

Sabrina

Sachi

Sadie

Saffron

Safire

Sahli

Sally x4

Sarah x 2

Sarah Jane

Sari

Sascha x 2

Sasha x3

Sarsha

Satu

Savannah

Scandal

Scarlet

Scruffy

Serena

Seven

Sha

Shae

Shandy

Shannon

Sharnie

Sharon

Sharna

Sheba

Shelby

Shimmer

Shine

Shishka

Shona

Siann or Cyan

Sinta

Sienna X 3

Skye x 3

SkySnow

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Stella x2

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Storm

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Sue x 2

Summa

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Sybill

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Tait

Tamar

Tameeka

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Tara x 3

Tasha

Tashi

Tassie (with an s sound NOT a z)

Taya

Tayla

Teegan X 2

Tempe

Tess x 6

Tessa

Texas

The Divine miss Sophie

Thea-Rose

Tia x 2

Tieke

Tikaani

Tilba

Tilli

Tilly x3

Tinka

Tinny (tin tin) x2

Toot

Tori

Tully

Tyche

Tyra

Tyneal

Ulla

Ursula

Vada

Vicki

Vienna

Viviane

Voodoo

Wandy

White

Whitey

Whitney (reg'd) Whitneigh)

Winnie

Winona

Winter

Wilhelmina

Willow x 2

Wolf

Xena

Xanthe

Zara

Zahli

Zillah

Zippedeedoodah

Ziva x 3

Zena

Zoe x 4

Zora

I have a 11 week old male great Dane, I was just informed by the vet that he has 1 testicle and the other may be in his scrotum or abdomen. He states that he will need to be castrated at 6 months. Does it have to be done at 6 mths or can you wait till 12mths. I'm only concerned as I was told that castrating early can hinder the growth stage. The platelets stay open which leads to skinnier lankier dogs. Any info would be much appreciated.. Thank you

It sounds like he is just pushing to desex at 6 months as that is the age most vets are taught to desex puppies at (and to push owners to desex).

If he is a giant breed its best not to de-sex until the pup is older i.e. 12 months. Ask your breeder if possible.

The main issue with retained testicles is that because they are kept in a hotter environment (inside the body) they can turn cancerous. But this is unliely in such a young dog/puppy and is more of a middle aged to old aged issue (as I understand it).

This is quite an interesting study about canine skull "diversity" and genes that may have been selected upon to create short nosed breeds. Obviously it's multigene but this is likely one of the genes contributing to canine skull morphology.

Schoenebeck JJ, Hutchinson SA, Byers A, Beale HC, Carrington B, et al. (2012) Variation of BMP3 Contributes to Dog Breed Skull Diversity. PLoS Genet 8(8): e1002849. doi:10.1371/journal.pgen.1002849

Schoenebeck JJ, Hutchinson SA, Byers A, Beale HC, Carrington B, et al. (2012) Variation of BMP3 Contributes to Dog Breed Skull Diversity. PLoS Genet 8(8): e1002849. doi:10.1371/journal.pgen.1002849

Abstract

Since the beginnings of domestication, the craniofacial architecture of the domestic dog has morphed and radiated to human whims. By beginning to define the genetic underpinnings of breed skull shapes, we can elucidate mechanisms of morphological diversification while presenting a framework for understanding human cephalic disorders. Using intrabreed association mapping with museum specimen measurements, we show that skull shape is regulated by at least five quantitative trait loci (QTLs). Our detailed analysis using whole-genome sequencing uncovers a missense mutation in BMP3. Validation studies in zebrafish show that Bmp3 function in cranial development is ancient. Our study reveals the causal variant for a canine QTL contributing to a major morphologic trait.

On a breed with a silky straight coat I prefer a pin brush as a slicker will break the hair. My maltese also HATES slicker brushes, the scratchy texture/feeling is unpleasant to her. She doesn't mind a pin brush. A good pin brush shouldn't have balls at the ends of the tips either.

I also like metal combs for the ears/tail.

Except I want to move home to SA in a couple of years :p :D If I thought there was a way around the 'big genetics' companies it would be something I'd seriously consider. From what I've heard the current providers aren't winning a huge amount of friends

They really aren't the things I could tell you (but not on a public forum) ;) .

If you PM DOLer MalteseLuna she will have the inside scoop on these things :)

Actually couldn't answer the question very well!

The main issue is that the patent for PRCD-PRA is I think held only by GTG in Australia (so they can charge what the want). That means also that (I think) other labs aren't supposed to test samples from Australia.

Pity that Australia has allowed such laws/patents to be passed allowing companies to own genetic mutations (genes)... otherwise genetic testing could be done cheaper... particularly if there were other competitive labs.

Thanks for that :)

Any vet or a vet authorized by ASAP Labs? I assume its just so they can check the microchip number?

Any vet should be fine - they just need to certify that the sample they took is from the dog your getting certified/tested.

Red and chocolate in Kelpies are both the brown gene so they are the same colour but when the standard was written no on knew that. Sadly many standards are genetically incorrect for colour because no one had a clue about genetics when they decided what colours to include. Chocolate in a Border Collie is brown but the colour termed red in BCs is the ee gene which is called orange/gold/yellow/cream in most other breeds.

Dog pigment can only be black, brown or the dilutions of these two colours, blue/grey or fawn/lilac (Wei colour). Hair colour can also be yellow (ee) which masks the basic pigment colour in the coat or white. All other "colours" are patterns made from combinations of these colours. The shade and intensity of any colour, including black will vary from dog to dog but they can still only be one of four basic pigment colours and anything else is a coat pattern.

This would be so much easier for everyone to follow if the colours had the same name in all breeds.

More specifically there are two types of pigment which dogs can have : Phaeomelanin a melanin pigment that causes some shade of red, orange, gold or yellow coloration and Eumelanin a melanin pigment that causes some shade of black or brown coloration.

There are a number of genes - ASIP (Agouti/A series), MC1R (E locus), TYRP1 (B locus), CBD103 (K locus) then there are a whole bunch more which cause dilutions, spots etc and some of which have not been identified at the "genetic" level. All these genes act in concert to create the "coat colour" you see in a dog - some modify the colour of the pigment, some mask it and some cause certain patterns.

Agouti causes solid tan/red, sable, solid black, black & tan colouration patterns.

MC1R causes black pigment masked causing red pigment i.e. places where Eumelanain would be expressed now have Phaeomelanin. This would mean that a black and tan dog (at the Agouti locus) would phenotypically be red and tan. If the dog would otherwise be black and carries the ee genotype the dog would likely be solid white.

Tyrp1 causes the eumelanin to be brown where it would "normally" be black.

CBD103 causes dominant solid black colouration and brindle colouration.

A really fantastic website for more information is - http://homepage.usask.ca/~schmutz/dogcolors.html

That website is written/maintained by one of the main scientific researchers who works on coat colour in dogs.

The interactions between the genes causes some very complex colour patterns and it can often be hard to "know" which genotype causes the phenotype as many phenotypes look so similar.

*hope this is helpful/useful*

With respect to inbreeding, I think there's a lot to be learned. But it would be good to see those going in for very tight line breeding strategies doing some genetic tests relating to the MLC/DLA genes to insure that, in promoting the visible conformation traits they desire, they are not compromising the genetic basis of immune response. . . . and making their findings public.

I don't think there are any related tests on MHC/DLA genes in dogs, certainly scientists can use them to investigate immune response or gene evolution but I don't think that any scientific literature has shown that a certain MHC/DLA combination compromises immune response nor do I see this information being useful until there is clear evidence that a certain genotype produces a certain response. I've done some reading on the subject as was thinking of using DLA/MHC genes as a population genetics marker in canines.

p.s. As I read further, I find that the merle question is pretty complicated. There doesn't seem to be a genetic test for the M gene, and there are crypto-merles. So breeding a known MM dog to a bitch who isn't an obvious merle may result in 50% MM pups . . . my own breed has simple colour genetics, so I may not have this right.

I should imagine there are many issues with the merle gene including breeding an Mm x Mm which would result in 25% MM pups, 50% Mm and 25% mm. Unless it is X linked.... what is the inheritance pattern associated with the merle gene??

Has anyone shown that the M mutation actually causes deafness or blindness or is the mutation just associated with the colour i.e. caused by another mutation nearby or linked to the M mutation?? Are there any MM dogs with no blindness/deafness?

COI doesn't worry me in the least. I have a had a dog that was higher than that, a lovely example of the breed.

Are the two Collies entered deaf and blind ? If not, then there's nothing to talk about.

Now the big question is, do I believe that link and the obvious smear campaign.

Not a smear campaign, unless you believe that anyone who argues for maintaining diversity is out to smear people who inbreed. A science-oriented blogger with a biology background and a deep commitment to Border Collies. . . .which extends to other herding breeds. He is deeply worried by the popular sire effect.

The two collies were not entered, they were invited to enter. Creme de la creme. They aren't blind or deaf, but they were both sired by a dog who is blind and deaf.

I don't see how the blog is "science-orientated"... There is no biology background that I can detect.

They were invited based on their statistics/leading rank not their colour/breeding etc.

That is soooo cool! I love working in science