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I'll ask the vet tomorrow Sam, but I doubt it's inverted. It certainly doesn't look inverted — in fact it seems to stick out a fair way. But she has a kind of curl of long hair that sits over it. I actually think the problem is more likely to be some kind of allergy, as at five months she had some kind of allergic reaction on her tummy. (Which was successfully treated.) The vet did suggest though that she might have a grass allergy. (I didn't connect that vulva infection to that allergy until Staff'n'Toller suggested it.) Anyway, I'll take all these ideas to the vet and try to get a better answer.

That's very reassuring. I wish my vet nurse had said that, rather than, "It's an infection. We don't know why she got it." It does stay a bit moist down there because she's constantly weeing on the fur that surrounds her vulva (sorry it that's TMI), so I will keep it trimmed in future and keep a look out for any infections. Thanks all who replied. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't potentially symptomatic of something more serious.

It's an expression. "Rude health" means "very healthy" or "robust health". See here.

A couple of days before Martha, my six-month old Lab, was spayed, I noticed she was doing very frequent, small wees and was licking her vulva. The next day, the vet nurse found two pimple-like infections on her vulva. They expressed pus when squeezed. The vet expressed them completely when she was under getting spayed, and she has since been on antibiotics. They've cleared up, although the two tiny little lumps still remain. They didn't appear to worry her at all after her operation, when she was on antibiotics. She is in rude good health, recovered from her spaying within 24 hours, and the area isn't tender. She's going back to the vets for a check-up on Monday, but I just wondered if anyone else has had this experience or knows why she might have picked up an infection. Is there anything I could have done or could do to prevent it?

Same. My Lab Martha was spayed a week ago now. She only slowed down on the first evening when she was still sleeping off the general anesthetic. I researched it a lot, including when to do it, but eventually decided to get in quick and do it before her first season. I couldn't find any evidence that it would change her personality at all. Of course, you won't see the heat behaviour. And it does reduce the risk of certain cancers. There are many different and very valid opinions about desexing, but for a pet my belief is that it's best to do it before their first season.

I think of your dog as TOTALLY GORGEOUS!

My lab girls is 25 weeks and 18.8kg, but she's quite petite for a lab. Still, it certainly sounds too much to me. Can I quickly hijack the thread to ask my own question? I'm still feeding Martha three meals a day. Of course she wants it — she's a lab after all. But should I whittle it back to two now she's six months old?

Cheers. 12 months old it is! That's a weight off my mind. She loves running around but she stops and starts gently when left to her own devices. The problem is that we sometimes encounter other people playing fetch with their dogs and she wants to join in. But this is easily solved — I'll just leash her and walk away. We play "baby fetch" inside with soft toys so she's still getting the idea. Also, she already loves swimming and playing fetch in the water — I assume this is ok as the weight-bearing pressure is off. I don't through water toys very far; just enough to give her a bit of a swim.

Oh Barkly! So handsome! I find the darker ones quite Bill Hensonesque. Hmm. How old is Barkly? I note you choose to photograph him naked. *dials appropriate authorities*

My lab puppy is six months old. She loves playing fetch, but so far I've resisted throwing a tennis ball in the park for her because I'm worried about the damage abrupt stopping and jumping might have on her growing bones — and, given she's a lab, particularly on her hips. I don't know her provenance so I don't know what her genetic predisposition of hip dysplasia is likely to be. Does anyone know anything about this? Is there an age when it becomes ok?

If you don't get any bites (squeeze the pun) from your cold-calling, you could consider asking for/offering to do some work experience. Show you're sensible, reliable and capable — a lot of work experience people go straight into some casual work with the same company. I don't think it matters if you only get a summer gig. Experience is everything, and the more you have the better. Are their courses available? ETA: I would ALWAYS send an email and CV before calling. You need to give someone an idea of yourself before you start bugging them. Stress the transferable skills you have — organisation, artistry, whatever it is.

Martha gets exactly the same. Believe it or not, she actually seems to prefer the Orijen to the raw.

I have a five month old Lab and she's delightful, but madcap. We started bite inhibition from day one and for months I thought it would never work. Then, suddenly, it clicked. It's going to be a bit harder starting later, but you can still train her. The key is consistency. If you're going to yelp, yelp every time. We've been less consistent with jumping up (my bad) and whaddaya know? She's a terrible jumper-upper. Training is an ongoing process but labs generally enjoy it. Your dog will want to please you — it's just a matter of letting her know what you want and teaching her how to do it. It takes a lot of work, but if your prepared to put that work in you'll have a great dog. I had no idea what a big job puppy training would be. But the pay-off is a gorgeous, happy, fun-loving, water-obsessed, food-obsessed, cuddly, loving friend who I couldn't adore more.

Martha is four months old. Since our first class at puppy school, I've known she is a fairly dominant dog. She was the boss of the pups at puppy school. Another puppy was a bit nippy and aggressive, and Martha was the only one who could dominate him, which she'd generally do just by sitting on him! She wasn't aggressive. She loved playing with the all the other pups at puppy school and was never aggressive, but she was definitely dominant — often ending a chase by standing over another pup, pawing at their heads, winning all the games. We live opposite a huge park with on and off-leash areas. I obey the signs, and in the off-leash areas I let her off if there's no other dogs around. I leash her if we see people, because otherwise she'll jump all over them, on-leash dogs, and off-leash dogs that I don't feel certain about. But she plays off-leash with dogs quite frequently. She is best with dogs who are adults and feisty. She'll lie down submissively when they approach. But as soon as they've sniffed, she's up for a game. She's quite fearless with any dog and loves rough-housing. Even if an older dog gets annoyed with her she'll still be trying to play. But with puppies her own age or with passive dogs her own size, she still tries to be dominant. Her hackles go up and she growls a little. Still, I find it hard to know if she's playing roughly or actually being aggressive. She's still playing when these interactions happen. I call her away from these situations, but they really worry me. Am I raising a monster? How can I teach her to play nicely? Or should I just leash her whenever she sees another dog, and wait to see how they interact? I'm very keen to train her to behave well off leash, and I want her to accompany me on long walks.

Jeez people — thank you for confusing me even further. I've decided that the easiest thing is start a campaign to get every male dog in the world neutered (even if I have to run around doing it myself), then keep Martha entire. No seriously, thank you for all your advice. I have a lot to read and think about, but my first thoughts are definitely turned on their heads. I'm certainly not going to be doing it early, which is what I was considering. Kazzie, that first picture is like looking in a mirror! (For Martha, not me.) Hope Martha turns out as pretty as your girl in your sig. Thanks so much to all.

Martha's 14 weeks, and she hasn't had a fear period. At least not one that I've noticed! Are they mandatory??

Try showing her a treat then holding it by your side to lure her along. Repeat x 1000 up and down the backyard until she understands what you want her to do.

How do you know when growth plates have closed?

Wow! Thanks for sharing this — I'd never heard of spay incontinence. Off to do some googling, but does anyone know how common this is. So sorry Stacy (and Gypsy) that you've had this problem.

Is this pornography? Whatever it is, it's most definitely the funniest picture I've seen on DOL ever! Martha loves her plush toys with squeakies inside. Or without — I've just got kids' toys from op-shops too. Puppy kong is invaluable. Empty toilet rolls with the ends rolled up and kibble inside are temporary but very popular toys round here. We also got an Orka Jack from Pookinuk that she loves, but that was when she was a little older — around three months.

When I caught Martha mid-wee I used to clap really loudly and she'd get startled and stop. Then I whipped her outside. I think it's better to move her, even if you leave a trail of wee to the back door!

Hi All, I know there's going to be different perspectives on this, which is good, because I want to hear different view. Martha's four months old now. She's petite for a Lab and very long and lean. The vet said we could do it anytime between now and six months. I'm pretty sure I want to do it before she has a season. Her vet said there's no definitive research that says bitches who are spayed early have growth plate problems. The advantage of doing it earlier, it seems to me, is that it'll be slighly easier for her to hang around the house recuperating. She loves romping in the park and this is only going to increase as the months wear on. I'd rather have her indoors now than in another two months, when she'll be even more wild! On the other hand, I know a lot of people think it could be setting her up for some potential growth problems, and that it's better to wait until she's 6 months, or even after she's had a season. What do you guys think?

Too true. For every brand there's a fan and a detractor. It can get ridiculously confusing. Sometimes, when I'm stressing about Martha's diet, I remind myself that the darling yellow lab and cocker spaniel I grew up with got a can of Pal everyday — and both lived long, healthy lives. We know a lot more about dog nutrition now and have heaps more choices, but at the end of the day as long as our dogs are healthy and happy and shiny, we should be happy too.

Hi Clare, I know the feeling. I'm trying to train my puppy to walk on a loose leash at the mo, and she's certainly a enthusiastic puller. She's getting strong too, even though she's only four-months old. (But she's a muscly little Lab.) The theory which I'm using is that pulling on the lead means we STOP. This should happen consistently — she only goes forward when she's got a loose leash. She has improved, but it's slow going. (Mostly because, embarrassingly enough, my consistency isn't what it should be — I walk her five ks, and by the end of it I often get slack.) I've realised I probably need the kick-start of working with a trainer. But I just had a squizz at the K9 Force site and note that you can do loose leash program via distance learning. (I'm also in Melbourne.) Now I'm not sure whether to book a couple of training sessions with a live trainer (who can see my dog, and help me with other issues) or go with Steve's program if it's so good. I gather you're doing the distance training thing Kynan? And I gather you're a big fan? Do you think the program is worth it even without a trainer on hand? Does Steve use the basic pulling = standing still method?

No, the chicken isn't on the side. Orijen is her staple and I divide the it out over three meals. Every second or third day replace the evening meal with chicken. I've never been quite sure how much chicken equates to how much Orijen though! Generally, I give her one wing or three necks or a frame. Orijen's a great food. Love those small poos!