WreckitWhippet

I have a handsome young Chi.

The pics old but he's developing a lovely headpiece.

He's by a KFinch dog

Unless the calendars are produced by breed clubs with decent dog photographers the dogs usually look like poor specimens of the breed and I refuse to buy one.

Who wants to see dogs with only three legs, few hallmarks of a breed, light eyes and half the time they resemble cross breds

Probably no different to showing pups at 3 months of age

theres actually 3 set of vaccinations for puppies first vaccination is done at 6 weeks old 2nd done at 10 weeks old third done at 16 weeks old. My male golden retriever Axel just had his 10 week old vaccinations done today, his due for his third in 6 weeks. Vet advised me not to take him out of our yard till he is 18 weeks old 2 weeks after his third vaccination.

Some breeders opt to do one after 8 weeks of age another c3 around a month later and other c3 around 15+ months

I advise all of my puppy buyers to get their pups about and about as much as possible and expose them to as many people, situations and positive experiences as possible (avoid dog parks and high dog traffic areas), positive early life experiences and socialisation far out weight the risk of disease

Are those pasterns normal ?

the idiot puts our animals at risk

I'd like to know how he's going to fly them out of the country, as if I were to send one of mine out of the country I'd need meet vaccination and export requirements and it's not as simple as putting them on the plane tomorrow, private or not

Excellent response, the founding fathers of my breed who drew up the first standard (and they were all working dog men) were specific in their colours because they knew that anything else hinted at impurity..............a standard is a standard, why not stick to it instead of suggesting changing it to suit whatever people have in their yard

I couldn't agree more.

As for those digging up the ole "links between colour and genetic faults" chestnut, I imagine this can be overcome by hanging garlic (or crystals) over the kennel, and/or getting a priest to perform an exorcism?

Or maybe we could actually catch up a couple of centuries and use MEDICAL SCIENCE?!?

I am 150% in favour of rigorous Hip/ Elbow/ Eye/ DNA testing of all available ancestors before breeding. Which for most breeds and most genetic problems, has naff all to do with colour.

There are a few, where either the genetic issues are present in the same bloodlines, or the skin pigment is itself a symptom of a skin type that can lead to other problems. But even there why not rely on the actual science rather than guessing?

The horrible irony is that by arbitrarily excluding dogs simply on colour, we further concentrate the gene-pool and make it that much harder to breed out the undesirable genetic problems.

What a shame Mr Rolly eyes no longer exists.

Ever heard of colour dilution alopecia ? I'll highlight the important bit for you . Now you tell me why colour doesn't matter

Not much funs when you are trying to avoid dilutes and yellows and reds are listed as fawn/brindle. Perhaps they should just list the nose colour :laugh:

Breeders who incorrectly register colours should be struck off. Try being a breeder and looking through a pedigree expecting to find factual information, only to find it's not.

My only other tip is to avoid hard bone, weight bearing bone is the quick way to wear down teeth and also fracture them.

Awesome, so what's next ?

A Dalmatian without spots

Coloured WHW's

NSDTR without tail tips

Brindle Pugs

after all, what does colour really matter ? If you don't want to breed to the standard, then don't breed.

When "colour" becomes irrelevant to some breeders, what's next ? It starts the slippery slope to "generic" dog.

I've raised a few Stafford litters and beyond on raw.

Keep it simple, which is a variety of red and white meats on consumable bone. Chicken wings, necks, frames, turkey necks and wing tips, rabbit, roo tails, duck, lamb, beef. Alternate between the meats and a little offal. You can buy raw salmon heads and the smaller oily fish at the supermarkets and add some once or twice a week. Keep the veg to a minimum. If you want to feed fruit and veg content, carrot and apple peels are great or turf a little veg off your kitchen bench as you are preparing dinner.

I wouldn't bother with a feeding guide for amounts. For a 9 week old SBT two or three chicken wings depending on the size will constitute a meal. Judge the pup by its condition. You will be adjusting the amounts you feed as the pup has growth spurts.

Here's a litter enjoying their wings

Go with K9 as recommended, his proven track record and results speak for themselves. It's not worth potentially compounding the issue while someone else plays experiments with your dog.

Guess you are feeding Blackhawk ?

I wouldn't put an SBT with a frail and aging dog. SBT's put the shoulder in and they don't go around things, they go straight through them. To be fair to the old dog, I wouldn't bring one into the home until he's gone.

http://www.ozdogbeds.com.au/snooza-pet-futon.html?gclid=CjwKEAjw65GqBRCj3fLFwK2SpWoSJABa3E3cc45jjO4LVNJ7PHpfcaKl8Fq7_qKqNzG9mz41ef9AMRoC7kTw_wcB

These fit perfectly in Toledo trailers

Mine had a mix of futon beds topped with blankets and some of them had cube beds. Whippets like their creature comforts.

It's a bit bare in there in that pic as I think I'd come back from a show with a friends dogs in a couple of the berths

You train them and take regular toilet breaks and give them the best bedding you can

We can't adopt from AAPS as we have entire dogs, have been knocked back twice. There is also a male Malinois there as well.

Thanks for the thoughts though, would snap him up otherwise!

what a joke that is, although it's certainly not funny.

BRT's or RBT's as they are now aren't a fluff ball for average Joe. Jeebus Christ they were developed as a working dog in what is very recent times in the dog world, they aren't exactly shrinking violets.

:laugh: some crackers there

You are probably now feeling the frustration of every Stafford, Wolfhound, Deerhound and all manner of other breeders.

Yep, providing the bitch is physically capable the second season is recommended. Bitches are young, in their prime and ready.

You can mate an SBT after 12 months, there are breeds listed in the prescribed schedule but the SBT isn't one of them. You hear all sorts of things, wait until they are two, wait until they are three.

I personally given the choice and within the codes put bitches into whelp as soon as they are old enough, if I think they can cope and will do well.

Cut the food amounts right back to a couple of tablespoons and feed out the back on cement.