Kavik

I would also shape going into the box with a clicker. I did this when I was considering teaching running contacts with Rachel Sander's Box method. Kaos is clicker savvy and it only took me 2 short sessions of a couple of minutes each for him to offer going into the box with all 4 feet in the box. While the running contact method gets the dog to jump into and then out of the box, the beginning would be similar, of shaping getting into the box. Susan Garrett in her One Jump DVD also explains why a method like this of building value works well. Although these are agility methods, I think it would work well for this obedience exercise.

How did you teach her to go to the box?

The starting age for agility is 18 months, I did my first trial with Kaos when he was 26 months (so just over 2). It was my first trial too! We made normal novice mistakes, missed a couple of jumps, but he ran happy though he had too much focus on me. Edit: it wasn't until the start of this year that we got any quallies, then got 3 in ADAC Novice Jumping fairly quickly, then developed a problem with running off. Have pretty much fixed that I think. Have only just started entering ANKC events recently, did really well at the last one, would have come first in our height if we hadn't missed a tunnel. I haven't been game enough to enter Diesel in obedience he is now nearly 6.

Was your dog onlead and the others off lead? And you were stationary and stayed in the same place with BBQ and other dogs wandered past you?

I use a NRM fr a couple of things in agility, coupled with a marker for when they get the exercise correct. I use it for weave entries which are difficult for the dog to understand, and I find that Kaos is happy that my NRM (whoopsy) means to come back and try again - he is not worried at all, and bounces back to me to try again. I use 'Yes' when he gets a difficult entry right. At training on Friday we worked on difficult dogwalk entries (right angle entries) which I haven't done before. I used a pole at the end of dogwalk to give him something to go around and used a NRM if he entered incorrectly (at an angle further up dogwalk). It only took a couple of tries before he was quickly entering correctly by going around the pole and getting on straight. I also found that by doing this and using 'Yes' for correct responses, that his dogwalk performance was quicker after the 'Yes' mark.

Well done! :D

I don't think you can get those type of 3 way connectors in Australia - my hardware store doesn't stock them and I got blank looks when I tried to describe it. I ended up getting my parents to order it from the USA (I was making a box for running contacts).

Are you using a clicker? Clicker training is great for targetting work - dogs get really enthusiastic about it! I use nose touches for motivatioin mostly and to keep attention at the start line. You can use a nose or a paw touch for contacts. Most people teach nose touch but I have decided to do paw touch.

Feel free to ask about what you don't understand We are all friendly.

This thread is discussing foundation behaviours for agility at the moment. These are behaviours which for the most part can be taught at home without the need for equipment. A few of the suggestions have equipment but the rest can be done without http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?show...=177172&hl= Edit: just noticed you said you are on a waiting list for a club

Shadow handling is getting them to follow your body so they read your handling better - sort of like heeling for agility For targetting - I initially taught a nose touch (clear plastic lid) but then decided on a paw touch for my contacts - I use a rectangular piece of material cut out from those material shopping bags but you can use what you like.

Kaos is the fist dog I have competed with in agility. I did some foundation work with him, but with the next dog I plan to do a lot more. Some things I plan to teach are: * Shadow handling * Send to food and/or toy reward * Teach dog to look forward for release * Send in a straight line forward and throwing toy * Target for contact behaviour and send to the target * Wobble board to get them used to movement for the seesaw * Foundation ground work for front and rear crosses * Rear end awareness If your dog is a bit older and can start jumping I would also do the One Jump exercises from Susan Garrett's DVD I'm sure there are lots more

Oh I'm sure you will get Dingo comments about her due to her colouring ;) . Just ask some of the people with cream Kelpies how much money they would have if they got a dollar every time they were asked if their dog was a dingo The dingoes I have met have been standoffish with people. There was one at Paws in the Park on the weekend - lives at Pet Resorts Australia and came out when Steve Austin was doing his demos. While it looked similar to a Kelpie or Cattle Dog it also looked quite different.

It does when you only weigh 44 kgs ;)

They are huge There is no way I'd ever be getting a dog like that! A Malinois on the other hand . . . certainly on the cards at some point in time.

The 2nd one is the one I was thinking of. LGD look very different when working compared to protection dogs. They look much more defensive in their body language than trained personal protection dogs.

What makes you think she has dingo in her? Kelpies come in that cream colour and with part Red Cattle with the Kelpie it is more than possible to get her look - she is gorgeous by the way

MonElite has posted a video of protection work with LGD before - I'll try to dig it up

IMO the way the OP was worded she EXPECTED her dog to do SOMETHING when the mentally disturbed man came at her. That is the difference IMO in this situation. I did not get a GSD with the expectation that he would do something if I was attacked, I got him to do obedience with (OK, so he is not even great at that but anyway ) and as a pet that I could take places. If you actually have expectations that the dog will do something, then it is not fair on anyone (dog or you) to rely on a pet dog that may not have the temperament to step up and does not have the training to build their confidence in their ability to step up. A bit different to the dog stepping up unexpectedly, this is expecting the dog to step up when there is no reason to think the dog would (and the dog did not). I think everyone knows that if you are going to choose a dog that looks intimidating, has a good bark and may react to something happening, it is best to choose from the breeds where this is known to be a trait. Most times walking a big dark dog is a deterrent to problems. But you cannot then be disappointed if it does not step up without training or evaluation just because it is a certain breed. If you want to bet your life on a dog, best to be fair to all and get one with the right temp and train it properly.

Rex My Kelpie X (actually all of my dogs ) will bark their heads off if someone pokes their head over the fence. Heads with no bodies attached are not normally seen over the top of fences and I would expect most dogs to bark at this. My Kelpie cross has a reactive nature and barks at lots of things - kids screaming in swimming pools next door when I lived with my parents, lawnmower going next door. She is also not a stable dog and is scared of thunderstorms and fireworks and buses that backfire loudly. She is the least likely to do anything serious

That is a good point since I know even my dogs act differently if I am nervous or excited (like at a trial compared to training).

I was being honest - I really was hoping you would you post criticism so I could figure out what I need to improve and how to improve it - I didn't mean it in a bad way It is hard to get constructive criticism of individual obstacle performances at training Normally there is a lot of focus on handling and sequences at training and not so much on obstacle performance. Shine's seesaw looks awesome! I think we are doing pretty well considering it is the first time I have tried to train this properly. Yep need to work on my body language too - turning in on him wouldn't help and I do it without thinking I am better at training I think than in the yard when it comes to that. Maybe I will try to get someone to video me at training - he seems to like the one at training and gives a good perfomance on it. ETA: Michelle is doing a great job with Anna's contacts and I am learning a lot watching their progress :D

Thanks Vickie I was hoping you'd pop in and give criticism. Yes he is still a bit hesitant and still a bit too focussed on me. He doesn't go ahead as well as I would like - If I send most likely he would stop at some point on the seesaw to look back at me - will try to convince OH to do another video so you can see. I have been working a lot on getting him to send forward to contact positions but still not as good as I would like. I will put arms away no problem I have a tunnel, will give that a go as well.

Hi LilBailey Here is someone's video diary of retraining their dog who is scared of the seesaw. Might be helpful.

Ooh thanks DeltaCharlie, I will contact them about it!