Jump to content

becks

  • Posts

    8,519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by becks

  1. best to just quickly pull out a few hairs at a time. Using ear powder/thornit powder will hellp you do this.

    Some dogs tolerate it better then others but it doesn't take long and it much better then getting an ear infection.

    Cutting the hair doesn't help the air to circulate into the ear.

  2. I use an H frame - just make sure that you use it in a sturdy table with a heavy base or a wrigley dog can rock the table (unless it is up against a wall) there is a chain hanging from the 4 hooks along the cross bar so the neck noose and belly strap can be positioned where needed and it is really easy to move dogs around.

    I have my table in the centre of the room, so I feel it is safer for the dogs to be tied up.

  3. If a dog objects to a slicker brush, it is generally because the owner is being to rough with it. Pull up the hair and go through it layer by layer. Try the brush on your arm just as strong as you would on him, does it hurt? scratch? Cheap brushes tend to have a poor finish on them and will scratch up the skin, some have no give in them, a 'gentle slicker' should be fine for your dog.

  4. It's best if you can try before you buy (I don't mean on a dog, but to feel how they are in your hand)

    I use the double sided (don't have the patience to use the single sided ones and they have the advantage that they don't seem to need sharpening and mine are over 20 years old!!) Mine are 6.5 inch. So long as you move between each cut, you get a very nice, natural finish with them

  5. I always dust with ear powder first, it gives you a much better grip of the hair and dries out the wax. I use my fingers and just quickly pull (rather then a sharp tug) just a few hairs at a time.

    As you have an older dog from someone who would have been plucking the ears, just get on with the job, some dogs will try it on with a new person!

  6. She could just be getting to the teenage 'why should I' stage and having had a week of living with different rules, it has shown her that she doesn't have to behave in the way you want or expect. Most dogs go through a phase when they start to test you as they grow up.

    and for the first time EVER, would not come back when called. Even the clicker didnt work. We had to chase her and corner her.

    Why would you even have used a clicker if she was NOT doing what you wanted? The clicker marks the point at which the dog is doing what you want.

  7. i would suggest you give it a go with your current dog. My old giant (8 years at the time) learned a new trick in just a few minutes by using the clicker. like spotted devil and her bucket, but I used a foot stool and the giant put her head onto the stool (after being clicked for showing and interest and then getting closer to it, she was the one who decided to offer her chin resting on the stool) this later at her dinner time when I asked for a down before she got her dinner, instead of just doing a down she also dropped her head onto her paws.

    This has remained one of the behaviours that she offers if i have something she wants.

    i find clicker great for teaching sendaway very quickly.

    I also have a dog who just doesn't get the clicker at all, if she isn't shown (lured) what I want her to do, then she just can't be bothered to try to work it out, makes her brain hurt!!

    A good way I was told to practise your timing with a clicker, bounce a ball and click when it is at it's highest point of the bounce (or you can do it as it hits the floor)

  8. The only thing to watch for, make sure the tail isn't docked to a length that would have the end sticking in the floor when the dog sits, a friend has a weimy with a tail like this and the dog is never comfortable in a sit.

    As Tony said, your dog will have no problem communicating with other dogs, all but one here are docked and get on fine with other dogs.

    Let us know how he goes after this course of antibios

  9. That's why I like to attend the occasional grooming seminar, it gives you a refresher in various breeds AND brings you up to date in how the business is working - eg dogs now go straight in the bath and get groomed out as it's blow dried (unless matted to warrent a rough clip off before hand)

  10. They should all be assesed on an individual basis. Take my breed for instance, you can work on the coat as much as you like as a puppy, but if you then clip off the adult you will go back to just having a soft coat again (there are a few excdptions to this but those dogs tend to lack undercoat anyway)

×
×
  • Create New...