Erny

Ok - perhaps I'm being blind to them. What would those politics be? To my knowledge they don't preclude people, treat them differently for their beliefs in dog training, etc. etc. So, got any examples?

During jump training I took a bad fall off my horse. Was hurt, but dusted myself down and got back on. I was a "bit sore" for a while. I (months) later found out (coincidentally) that I had broken my heel and that I shouldn't have been walking on it. Pull your dog from the clinic. Stuff the money. Whatever the damage, even bone bruising takes a good while to heal. Personally, I wouldn't be satisfied to not have a professional opinion even if it was only to back my opinion up with. That doesn't sound like you, JulesP.

As far as I can think, I don't believe NDTF have any politics which actually affect dogs, dog training, dog-welfare. But they are the only ones I can think of that don't.

No I don't think so. But you're right. Politics does bring out the worst. IMO, politics shouldn't form a part of dogs, their training and their welfare. Pity that it always manages to creep its way in with some organisations.

Ahhhh .... so this is Minna we're talking about! Sorry, CH .... I tend to forget which DOL names belong with whom. Minna, unless she's changed, is quite the "out there" sort of happy personality type dog. Strong, but a tendancy towards sensitivity and happy to give if she can work out easily enough what it is you want and if you can make it worth while. If things are as they were when I last saw you (LOL .... except for the fact that baby is not where she was back then) over 2 years ago ( time flies!!) then no, this dog doesn't need rehoming. To work out why she's nicking under the house and, more particularly and importantly, why she isn't coming out when you call her (and staying under there so long!) would need more questioning. One thing I wonder is whether she is ratting or mousing or lizarding under the house and obsession is keeping her away. That would need some observation to be able to determine. I would think some kind of trellace or chicken wire (wouldn't look as good but would be cheaper) might be able to be constructed as a barrier to her getting underneath the house at all would at least be a management strategy to whatever is going on. But hey .... it is good to hear from you. I'm glad you and baby are ok (I'm assuming you are, given that it is 2 years down the track) and hope that walks with babe in pram (which was what you were practicing for) is going ok.

Perhaps they only changed it that one year and reverted, or perhaps the information I was given was incorrect. Doubt that I'd go now, given their attitude towards me. It would need to be something super super special ...... like Ivan Balabanov or someone . No, I don't really mean that. There are some times when there are some really good presenters there and I mean them no offence.

Yep - same here. Or esophageal obstruction. ETA: Sorry - read further and realise "obstruction" has already under suspicion by the Vets. Hope she's ok.

I was refused Membership renewal by APDT two or three years ago because I publicly campaigned for a change in our Victorian laws to permit us to use (with conditions/restrictions) PPCollars, and because I support the very good use of the e-collar (of course, these things are not exclusive to the fact that I also very strongly support motivational training and positive reinforcement). From memory, I think they changed their rules around the same time so as to preclude anyone who was not a member from attending their conferences. That being the case, I am not permitted to go.

I wasn't told at the time, as in when they were 12 weeks old, but it was a different vet(at the same practice) we saw back then. If I had been informed or given a choice on such young pups I definitely would have chosen the normal vaccine! And no one would be judging you, Raffikki. It is the lack of information and education from Vets to their clients that needs addressing, IMO. Why have a dog and bark yourself? (Pardon the pun.) Are the Vets under some contract to the drug companies to not inform their clients, even to suggest the information/statement that has been put out by the Australian Veterinary Association? Not questions directed to you, Raffikki - just general 'out there' questions to anyone who might have the answer.

Are his seminars always in QLD?

Fair enough, Crisovar - I forgot about the "off label" use. But do Vets inform clients about this bureaucratic 'bind' they are in, and then let the dog's owners make educated choices, "label" aside? ETA: What are your thoughts on the "Nobivac 3yr" for a puppy?

I have not heard of this before. I'm really sorry for your loss, Alison Ma.

The "3 yearly", or the "12 monthly once every 3 years" ? My vet recommended the "3 yearly" vaccine. I was concerned about it and asked if it was stronger than the normal yearly one and he told me it was. I trust this particular vet and went ahead with it, but have struggled to find any information about it Does anyone have any links or information for it? ETA: He did inform me that they both got the "3 yearly" vaccine at 12 weeks, and explained this was why they didn't need a third vaccination at 16 weeks. What I know of it is only what I've read here - not only from the opinions of others whose knowledge base I respect but some links as well, if I remember correctly. As far as I'm concerned, if the yearly vaccination provides the dog with immunity and immunity is proven to last for at least the 3 year period (I'm of the opinion that it is far longer, but that's beside the point), then there's no reason IMO to administer a stronger drug than usual. I just don't get the thinking by some of these Vets - there doesn't seem to be any logic to it as far as health benefits for the dogs concerned (quite the opposite) and I hate to say that the only reason for it that I can think of is based in their greed for $$$. BIGGER (albeit unnecessary) injection, higher price? And the 3 yearly 'Super' vaccine () for a puppy? Anyone else think this is very wrong? If the pup is vaccinated at the correct time frames, 2 vaccinations (normal ones) are all that is needed to effect immunity. My boy received his 2 puppy vaccines and I had him titre tested when he was 15 months old (should have done it earlier to ensure he had immunity, but hey .... we live and learn). His immunity levels were (a) sufficient enough to not warrant a booster and (b) evidence that he has immunity and therefore I do not intend to vaccinate him again.

You're meaning to just have her crated for short periods through the day during her seasons, aren't you?

The "3 yearly", or the "12 monthly once every 3 years" ?

Gosh .... What's the reason as to why your dog would refuse to come to you? I don't know your dog's history or circumstances, but some work on pack structure/relationship as well as on recalls would help for the future, and not just in relation to hiding under houses. Glad your dog came out eventually.

I have some of the ointment as well but admittedly I haven't used it on my dog. Mainly because the skin issue I deal with is generally hives and I want them to dry out rather than remain moist. I also think the ointment might attract and hold dirt, where the tea dries and leaves no (even remotely) greasy film. I sometimes wash my boy (as in a bath) using the Calendula (I don't use shampoos of any description) and I find his coat is left feeling and smelling clean and fresh. But to answer your question - yes, to my knowledge you can use the ointment. I'm just not sure if it is better than the tea. What you want to do is treat the skin so that secondary skin infection doesn't occur, or is halted. I think the skin being able to dry, yet benefiting from the anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory qualities of the tea would be better. Just my unqualified opinion and thoughts though.

What makes you think he is "asking"? Could it not be possible that he is demanding you invite him up to jump all over you? What would make you think this isn't possible? Jumping all over me isn't what I'd want to train for .... I'd be flattened by the boisterousness of my boy. Mind you, being jumped all over by any dog isn't my cup of tea. Naturally it occurs because of the work I do, but I train to discourage it. We train quite differently - I train so that if I want to open the door for myself, I can, rather than have to sacrifice what I want to do (eg open the door to go inside) because my dog might not want to do what I've taught him to do to gain entry (or exit).

Where I get mine costs about $8.20 for a 50g packet (which is a reasonable amount, because it is so light) - just to give you an idea. I tend to use one to two tablespoons full (heaped) in the toe of a stocking to a big mug of boiling water. Allow to steep until cool. Squeeze out the excess from the stocking and remove, discarding the used Calendula and making use of the remaining tea. Good luck. Hope it works for her.

I'd think salt water could be a bit on the drying and stingy side? But hey .... if it works . However, I'm inclined to use Calendula Tea. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial qualities, is soothing and is natural. I find that if it is going to work, improvement can often be seen inside 24 hours. And it will do no harm whatsoever if licked. In fact, it is something that can be applied as well as taken orally. NB: Calendula (purchase from a Health Food Store) is dried Marigold Flowers. I have known of many dogs being treated with this with success, even though some of the skin allergies are grass/pollen based. But like anything, if you apply it, try a selected area first to make sure there is no worsening of the rash.

Good post, Staranais. I agree with your thoughts, philosophy and expectations.

LOL .... from the get go, the very first time I ever said "gentle" (softly, roundly) to my boy when he was a pup, he got so excited. I have no idea why, but that word still, 2 years on, gets him all tail waggy happy, aroused and rough/excited. The same with the word "cross" (said in neutral tone) when we go to cross roads. That word tended to have him going off the rictor scale and we'd go from our good loose lead under control walk to way out of control again. And just when I'd collect it all together, there'd be another road to cross. He's a bit better with this now, but the "gentle" still has him all excited, wriggly and bouncy and you have to be careful that he doesn't hit his tough skull with yours in his excitement. .... Maybe I should have made his release command "gentle".

So .... has no one else found this to happen? It's still happening here - washing the blankets has made no difference. In the early hours a couple of mornings ago (when it was still dark), my boy got restless and got up for a walk around. As the blanket came away from him I saw the streaks of blue from the static electricity, running up his back legs and down his tail, as the blanket slid away. It's hard to tell because it happens so quickly, but some of the static electricity streaks were about 1 inch long and others about 2 inches long. And for the moments they appear, it ever so slightly lights up around them to the point I can identify things (such as his tail, legs, a bit of the wall). It looked a little like those novelty glass balls that have the streaks of electricity moving inside them. Another time I grabbed a corner of one of the blankets and was just shaking it out (it was still dark - don't ask me why I was doing it then .... it's an unnecessary and boring story to explain here) and I saw all the blue streaks of static occurring throughout the blanket, where it was touching/rubbing on itself. I'm really quite amazed by this and to a degree, a little bit concerned. The static electricity streaks don't cause the physical sensation that we otherwise get from (eg) carpet static, or stims after alighting from a car, which is ok. But it has crossed my mind as to whether it would be possible for the blanket to ignite if there was enough static generated. Perhaps I'm being silly. But I'm thinking I might ditch the blankets.

I used to inject my horse on a frequent basis with Cartrophen shots, when he was in full work. I remember the Vet telling me to be careful about getting any of the cartrophen just under the skin, as that would cause a lump. I used to make sure there was no Cartrophen on the surface of the needle (after loading) before injecting and also that the full amount from the injection had been injected before I carefully withdrew the needle from the injection site. Don't know if that's the reason I never had any problems, but I never did.

If your dog is old enough to be beyond the initial "puppy wormer routine" stage and unless you have good reason to believe your dog has or was likely to have picked up worms, I wouldn't worry about a missed dose. In fact, I don't worm my dog at all on a regular basis. I sometimes take stool samples to the Vet if I think it is necessary and have them check it for worm burden. I'm disinclined to administer worm drugs on the frequent schedule science has had us believe is necessary "just in case". That's me.