Toohey

Hi Jules, I keep on top of grass seeds by carefully trimming around the opening of my dog's ears... less fur to trap the seeds firstly. ..maybe not something that is traditionally down with Cav grooming, but might be practical at this time of year. I slicker brush and then comb their leathers every day after their run: flip them over nad brush backwards and sideways as well, and once a week will flush their ears out with an alcohol based ear cleaner. Pour it in, massage the external base of the ear for a few seconds with your fingers, then allow the dog to have a good shake. Only other thing is careful and close inspection every day.... not just ears, I find them between toes, in armpits, and also groins, are places they like to lodge as well. Keep them matt free as well, as grass seeds can cause matts and work their way into the skin from behind knots. A leave in conditioner is a good idea as well. But, I would certainly be trimming the fur right back around the ears for starters.

Betadine is the antiseptic of choice for open wounds, and as someone who as dressed many open wounds using it, I can tell you it is not painful. Entity, if you can get a syringe, you could even try flushing out the wound with some betadine or salt water. It might help dislodge whatever is in there. Let us know how he goes please?

Hi Entity, there is something lodged in there still by the sound of it. I had something similar happen with one of my dogs. Developed a swelling, had surgery and they could not find anything. The wound continued to weep and I took her back. This time they opened it right up and left drains in and still didn't find anything. I thought it had healed, then 6 weeks later noticed it was weeping again. I had a look and a poke and almost immediately a huge soggy brown grass seed fell out of the wound. It had worked itself out from where ever it was hiding. The wound of course healed, and no more problems. If your boy's abcess has been thoroughly explored and washed out, I think you may have to just wait it out and see if the same thing will happen. I would not put him through any more surgery. If he tolerates it, try to clean the wound every day with some salt water or betadine, and wipe the hole opening to keep it open so it can drain. Perhaps some sort of poultice might help as well. Is he sore at all?

Can you ask the vet what type of bladder stones they are? http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cl...p;articleid=400 If you know what they are made up of, it will give you a better idea of what to feed to help break them down. When you find out, I'd PM Steve and ask her advice re diet. Do you know what the ingredients are in the recommended food?

No real benefits I would think.... just skin and fat and a yummy treat. I found they were great however when my pup was teething. If you soak them for a bit in water they go all rubbery, and are good for them to chew to help get the baby teeth out.

Deja vu http://www.dolforums.com.au/index.php?showtopic=114524 were you not happy with the replies given in your other thread?

I prefer to avoid processed foods and feed a natural diet. The dogs love it, do really well on it... never had a skin/allergy issue, they have beautiful teeth, smell great, and have lovely shiny coats. If you don't mind a little preparation, you will find it cheaper as well. Adding a splash of natural apple cider vinegar every day is great as well, strengthens the immune system and kills off bugs. Here's some reading for you http://www.rawmeatybones.com/ http://www.abc.net.au/wa/stories/s1293692.htm http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/ http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/barf_philosophy.html http://www.rawlearning.com/ http://www.njboxers.com/faqs.htm http://sonia.clove.net.au/diet.html edit to add, you should be avoiding carbohydrates if there are skin problems, this includes grains, cereals, rice, pasta, etc. and feed fatty acids such as tinned sardines in oil twice a week, or buy something like fish oil tabs or megaderm from the vet clinic.

Doesn't really make a lot of sense to me. Is there any chance you can ring the vet ML, and have a chat to try and get a better understanding? Is she actually drinking a lot? and if so, she should be tested for diabetes first. Sounds a bit like guesswork on the part of the vet. If she is "over processing" urine, why would the sphincter need to be tighter? A sphincter needing tightening would imply she is incontinent, which is the opposite of the problem the vet seems to think she has. Sorry, just thinking out loud here :rolleyes: Id' try and have a chat to the vet myself.

If she wants a non shedding dog, suggest she get a poodle. Americans have much heavier and longer coats than English. Have a look at the breed profiles on the DOL home page to give you an idea. And, many coats bulk up a lot more after desexing. All cockers shed, but if they are kept well groomed it is barely noticeable shedding. A combination of an American coat and a poodle coat would be somewhat frightening, and I imagine would need a lot of work to keep it matt free. Best to go for a purebreed for a predictable and more manageable type of coat.

http://www.rawmeatybones.com/ http://www.abc.net.au/wa/stories/s1293692.htm http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/ http://www.drianbillinghurst.com/barf_philosophy.html http://www.rawlearning.com/ http://www.njboxers.com/faqs.htm http://sonia.clove.net.au/diet.html

The meat should not be cooked. Never too young for raw meat, preferably on the bone. Raw chicken necks are ideal for young puppies, as are wings, perhaps give them a bit of a crushing with a big kitchen knife to start with, then eventually feed them as is.

If it's a bite wound, chances of infection are high, especially considering it is already swollen and painful.

She'll need antibiotics. Have you got any clavulox you can start her on?

double..

My objection is to the idea that these offered as "extras" when they should be given automatically IF NECESSARY. It should be included in the consent form that there are risks associated with any surgery and if they encounter complications during the procedure that require such things as intravenous fluid, the owner agrees to that when they sign the consent form. It suggests that if the dog bleeds, the vet will say oh the owner didn't pay for IV fluids, therefore we let the dog bleed to death. Whatever happened to duty of care? Pain relief should also be included as part of the expected cost. Pain is expected after surgery. Shouldn't that be part of the expected cost? How many times have you had a vet say "well if it was my dog, I'd want this etc..." ? Again, if fluids were required and not given, that is incompetence or negligence on the part of the vet. it should not be up to the owner to decide whether or not the dog needs fluids.

It happens, I have seen it happen. I was not incorrect as you originally stated. No the information comes from many years of real life experience and genuine knowledge and that was the first quote I could find in a hurry as I believe it is wrong to give information without any sort of backup. Routine procedures on humans they are not often needed either, but they are necessary if ANY drugs are being given, so that allergic/unexpected reactions can be handled ASAP without having to stuff around and try and find a vein with shaking hands when they have all collapsed.sherree How many vets you know are proficient at giving an intracardiac injection...under pressure,... to hundreds of different size animals?

Veins go straight to the heart. And I hope the vet would realise there is a problem before it gets to the stage where the heart has stopped. Course it's going to be effective. Ive seen it done in people many times. Anyway, enough sidetracking. Apologies to the OP..

A pre anaesthetic blood test won't determine if a dog is going to have an anaphylaxis!! And if there is no IV access to give adrenaline..... Thanks for the info. Next time my dogs need surgery the vet will be thoroughly questioned prior.

Are you saying that dogs are undergo surgery without IV access? I don't mean fluids, just access. With humans ALL patients must have an IV cannula in for any procedure.

Puggles, I am not incorrect. It's certainly possible, though more likely in those who have impaired cardiac/renal systems. Actually the most realistic problem from fluid overload would probably be urinary retention post-op... however, this is way off track and is probably scaring the OP Good advice.

Sorry I think that is a complete rip off. If I dog needs IV fluid, it should be determined by the vet who is anaesthetising the dog, and given if necessary. I believe it is not routine unless there is more than normal blood loss. I hope the vet would not withhold IV fluids if needed because the owner did not request it prior. How on earth can an owner be expected to know whether or not their dog will need IV fluid . What if it was NOT needed and the dog was fluid overloaded, causing possible pulmonary oedema? No she can't. She is not a vet and has to believe whatever they tell her.Danelover, As your dog is young and healthy, I would not bother with the blood test... in fact I would look at finding a vet who is less likely to rip you off.

My bitch developed KC after a show at KCC about three weeks ago. My other dogs have since come down with it as well. All only mild, thanks to vaccinations and healthy imune systems. It is spread by droplet infection mainly, but I would still be careful around people whose dogs have or have had it recently. Inside shows (such as this one was) are a big risk. Seems to be rampant at the moment.

Puggles, protexin would be better than Yakult. Steve has recommended this to me in the past. http://www.iahp.com.au/datasheets/Protexin.pdf

Sounds like he has decided he prefers the RMB's to the dry stuff. Have you got, or can get a copy of "grow your pup with bones" by Billinghurst? I think they sell them on the greenpet website, if not try google. Try mixing some pureed cooked veg into his chicken mince, add a little egg, maybe a little natural yoghurt, sardines tinned in oil are great (mix thru the dry food as well) and very tasty for them, and if you can get some Polyvite, or even just a kid's mulitivitamin, give one a day to cover your bases. Doesn't hurt to introduce new foods at an early age either, such as raw pieces of fruit and veg for them to chew on as well. Good for their teeth and a good fallback for later in life if you need to get the fat off! I wouldn't worry with the tinned dog food either.