Toohey

She does use the sanding drums. The picture shown is exactly what I use. She says not to use the grinding stones as they get too hot. There are metal ones in this kit as well that I would not use for the same reason.

Can you describe his diet for us? Both the breeder's diet and the diet he is on now?

I bought a dremel kit in Bunnings. It's cordless and has heaps of different attachments. I use the sandpaper ones and they work brilliantly. Comes in a blue case and only costs $12.

Has her exercise decreased? Are you positive her food has not increased? Does anyone else feed her? Have you actually weighed her? Might be an idea for a vet check. Has she got big boobs? Seems a bit past the time for a phantom as she is 11 weeks out. I have one here who came in a month after your girl - she's in full blown phantom mode and has boobies down to her knees at the moment.

Many of us have learnt on this forum over the last few years, about how to feed BARF and the benefits it can provide for our dogs. I have dug up some links and old posts, and was hoping that those who DO feed a natural diet would like to pop in here and talk about their dog's diets - ingredients, supplements used, methods of preparation, recipes, benefits to their dogs etc. Anyone who is interested in feeding BARF, please feel free to ask questions thread one thread two thread three thread four thread five http://www.barfworld.com/ http://www.rawmeatybones.com/ http://www.rawlearning.com/rawfaq.html http://www.rawdogranch.com/rawmeatybones.htm

I wouldn't feed the tinned stuff. Stick with the Advance dry food but find a pet supply place to buy it from. Look in the Yellow pages to find a place near to you, or alternatively there are places like www.petspantry.com.au you can ring them up and they will deliver it to your home. They stock Eagle Pack, Pro Plan, and other good brands. It's very expensive to buy it from a vet clinic. I agree you should add some raw chicken necks and wings, and other raw bones to make his diet more enjoyable and natural.

You can't take baby puppies on long walks for several reasons. Not a good idea. What is a "sexy" walk? (pertaining to dogs, that is)

There are various chew deterrants on the market you could try, such as this one http://www.muttropolis.com/products2.cfm/I...Deterrent-Spray , try googling "chew deterrants" but considering the area is so large, a temporay physical barrier might be better. I used to use the plastic fence type material around the areas he used to chew the most, and I put chicken wire over the holes and held it in place with stakes etc, but he would just find a new spot to dig. Have you tried a sandpit with buried goodies for the digging? And I gather he has toys to chew such as Kongs and the like?

Good advice. My 6 year old took two full weeks to accept a new pup. He hated her at first, and growled whenever she came within 6 feet of him. Two weeks later and she was walking all over him, licking his face and his ears without a complaint from him at all. She still does it two years later. I think he enjoys the adulation

I don't think this is separation anxiety, and there are no known genetic disorders in cockers that cause them to eat houses This is a normal pup. She'll grow out it, and in the meantime you may just have to puppy proof the yard and the house as best you can. Let us know how you get on Cockerluv

My cocker pup did that as well, both the house and the holes. I used to have a golf course in the back yard. He stopped around the age of twelve months. it was just a puppy thing, though none of my other cockers have been like that, probably cos they had company and my first pup didn't.

Sounds like you are letting your pup take charge I groom three cockers nearly every day. I found the only way to teach them to tolerate it, was to be FIRM. I agree with those who say it boils down to a basic obedience issue. The pup used to wriggle and try to escape but I found if I just gave her a firm loud NO, and laid her down again, she gave up trying to fight and soon succumbed to it. Yes, I do lie them down as I find that is the best way to brush tummies and armpits and hidden bits, but they will also stand up and stay still if I want them to. I have dogs now that try and jump up on the table at grooming time, they quite enjoy it, as I mix in lots of cuddles and tummy scratches and make it a real one on one attention session.

If you are feeding the BARF diet correctly, you should not need to add supplements such as paraffin oil to prevent constipation. For those saying to reduce the bone, the BARF diet is 70% raw meaty bones, NOT mince/meat on it's own. The meat should be fed on the bone to allow the correct calcium to phosphorous ratio.

Sounds like lip fold dermatitis. If you buy some natural apple cider vinegar from the health food store, pour some onto a cotton wool swab and clean his lip folds thoroughly with it, it should clear it up. Others recommend cleaning the area with Malaseb or Chlorhexidine, but the ACV was the best thing. It cleared up my cocker's smelly lips practically overnight and the problem has never returned. It also helps to keep the area closely trimmed.

8 full weeks, so anytime from day one of the 9th week.

Did the vet call this condition "infantile genitalia"? I have been making enquiries re early desexing, but my vet won't do them before 4 months because of this problem. I will be interested to hear if the hormones make any difference, but it may be too late by now.

Just an aside, I didn't realise that the Groomer products can be bought online now, so thanks for that link Wylie. Their shampoos and conditioners are the best I have tried, and really well priced also. I have been buying them from show vans. Wendy, I have had the CC pin brushes and don't recall them being as good as my Plush Puppy has been, but definitely give the groomers ones a try Can I ask what breed you are grooming/

No, the cheaper ones don't last too long, do they. I went through the gripsoft quickly as well. Try Pet Network I have found the Chris Christensen slickers are great and last for ages, and I also have a Plush Puppy pin brush that is really tough and handles my thick cocker coats well.

This is my bitch about 8 weeks after her last season (not mated). They were completely back to normal a few weeks after this shot.. Don't squeeze her nipples or you will encourage milk production.

There are plenty of readily available and good quality puppy foods around. I like Advance, and fed this with raw chicken necks/wings, mushed vegies, and fruit, occasional eggs/ low fat yoghurt. I think if you feed a good quality dry as a base food and then add different stuff to get them used to different tastes and textures you can't go wrong. Bones are very important (as we all know) I got my little one used to eating raw pieces of apple and pear when she was little, along with celery and carrot and now she loves tham as a treat, which is great .

The breeder knows the pups personalities so talk to her/him about what qualities you prefer. For example, do you want a sooky snuggler or do you want a cheeky outgoing dog? Is she a pet or show prospect? If a show prospect, ask the breeder to choose the one she thinks will be best conformation wise. I don't think they can be flown before 12 weeks of age, can they? NSW to Vic is a just a short plane trip. Flying would be your best option.

My boy has dry eye and he is on Cyclosporin drops. They are $50 a bottle. He was originally on two drops a day but has now dropped to one drop a day as his eyes have improved heaps. The bottle I have currently has lasted a few months. He also is supposed to have naturale tears drops as frequently as possible, ideally every hour, or whenever I think of it. I use the lacrilube at night as well sometimes.

Wow! Strong opinion! Any suggestions on how we can solve the human problem? How can you be certain people wil desex?

I'd agree it sounds like a yeast infection. My pup had one when she was little and produced lots of dark brown waxy stuff, but her ears did not concern her. A trip to the vet to get the problem diagnosed and appropriate treatment should clear it up in no time. I would not be using anything without a vet prescription.

I am always trying different products. Presently using Mighty white n Brite, from Animal house which is a really lovely shampoo, and have just started using this conditioner and I think it has to the best by far of any I have tried to date. I did not need to brush out knots after blow drying, as the dryer just blew them out for me thanks to the conditioner, and their coats were left softer than they have ever been!