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Everything posted by Steve
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No need to worry - all will be well. In the big scheme of things this isnt a something that needs to make you too concerned. Ill be thinking of you. Julie
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Nothing anyone here can tell you to do will make any difference 100 percent of the time. I live with beagles and they never get out on their own - everything I do makes sure that this will never happen as I know there is no guarantee that they will come back and they get run over a lot. You cant train them to recall and be definite they will come back so dont look at what you can do if they get away do what you have to do to make sure they dont.
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Multi dogs http://www.geocities.com/Augusta/2525/multidogs.htm
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Smart puppy ! How long do you stick with the breeder's diet ? - You dont - The sooner you ditch it the better. You know already Im going to try to nudge you toward feeding a raw food diet - Raw meaty bones , raw foods and table scraps. If you have to feed a commercial diet from a supermarket Id go optimum but I would add some thrive D and table scraps . You make the decision as to what her food is going to be and stick with it . Puppies often eat very little when they first come home because the litter isnt competing with her any more . Put the food down . Whats not eaten in 15 mins pick up and take away - she'll eat . She can have raw meaty bones now. Chicken wings are great but any food bones are good.These are soft bones she can chew and not have to work too hard over. No recreational bones until a bit later.
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One on one beagles wont fight to the death and the best advice I can offer is to get the hell out of the mix and let them sort it out themselves . The more you interfer and try to stop a show down the longer they have the issues . Better to let them go and sort it all out. They never really hurt each other so just let them do what comes naturally .
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No you making money or breeding them is the last thing I was thinking of. Each time I have kept 2 girls from one litter they sass each other out over everything all of their lives . Each time I have allowed litter sisters go home together Ive had a problem. Let me tell you about one. The people had owned beagles before - 2 of them- but they came in at different times .I sold two little girls to them and for the first 6 months everything was perfect . There was one dominant and the other not . I was getting weekly updates and chats , photos and everything was great . Then the girls were desexed when they were almost 6 months old and they began to fight . The owner rang me and we talked and I advised her of some things she could do . It got worse so that when ever a human was arund they would beat each other up to keep the other away. The lady rang again and said she couldnt handle it so I advised her to get some help from an expert . She did this and I didnt hear any more fro a few weeks. next email said " Th egirls will be arriving at Wagga airport on Thursday - all papers will be with them. Please pick them up as we can no longer live with their bickering. - Ive never heard another word from this lady - didnt even call to ask if Id picked them up O.K. I kept them here for 4 months to assess them and to me they were pretty normal beagles except that they hadnt yet wred out who was going to stay boss . It kept changing from one day to the next. Anyway , alone they were perfect , but together horrible . They went to new homes. One in Canberra and one around Lake Macquarie and they have lived happily ever after . This made me more aware of the whloe pack thing with beagles and I wont send two at a time home again . Im not saying that this sort of thing will happen with yours but the peeing on the blankets is typical of what mine do here to mark their spot As they get older they'll wee where the food bowl has been and any place else they want dibs on If any of my beagles are going to get into a punch up - its always sisters first.So yes there may be a factor involved in getting them from the same litter and its my experience it may be a bit more of a challenge as they get older.
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roundworm is a real pain mainly because the meds only kill off the worm in a certain stage of its life cycle. But also because they can become infected even before they are born via the placenta as the lavae sit dormant in the Mum's uterus until about 3 weeks before the pups are born and then the whole life cycle is triggered. So for a young pup you need to worm them every 14 days and the lavae will migrate to the lungs and the pup spits up sort of what you have described your pup is doing now. Depending on how soon the breeder started worming and how often will tell you whats the best thing to do now to make sure the pup is all clear .
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When I said sorry - it was because this is how beagle girls are and there's little you will be able to do to prevent it . When you take them out of the same litter at the same time it adds a different dimension . When I asked if they were desexed and when you were intending to get it done it wasnt to accuse you of anything but it was because beagle girls change around desexing time and this is when you may see the less dominant dog standing her ground and having a go to be top dog and the other refusing to stand aside. You will be seeing who's the boss now but that wont remain constant and piddling on their spot is all part of telling the other one to nick off.
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How long since she has been wormed ? What with? Sometimes a pup with roundworm will do this .
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Sorry , but you have 2 beagle girls and you got them out of the same litter and at the same time. They are marking their spot ,they rather this smell than washng powder and its not an easy chore to get them to stop .Sackbeds are good but they will still wee on it . Keep your eye open for other signs as well that they are trying to work out who is going to be boss cocky . Do you intend getting them desexed and if so when ?
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Usually, before one of my beagle babies goes to its new home I ask where it will sleep so I can set up a similar place for it to sleep here for the last few days so its not such a big deal for the little guy. Alot depends on how the breeder handles the puppies as well. Beagle puppies prefer to be clean and they dont as a natuaral like having to go to the toot any where near where they sleep or eat but some breeders keep them locked up in small areas where they have to walk through thei own poo etc which makes life much more difficult when it comes time to train them. Their bladders are only tiny and they can only hold on for a few hours so they cant go all night without needing to go to the toot . If you use a crate he will cry and let you know he needs to go out. He will also try to work you over a bit to see how much you're going to give. If you dont want the pup to sleep with you dont lift it up onto the bed no matter how much it begs and yells. There are also mats you can put down for the pup to use to go to the toot on as well . But honestly if you can go back to your breeder and ask some questions about how the pup has been raised it may take a lot of the stress out for you and the pup. You also need to ask the breeder what they have been feeding the pup - not the vet because you need to stick with what the breder feeds for at least a few days and you need to know now ,so you know what you need to bring the puppy home to. Im happy to email you some of my Beagle puppy notes if you dont get enough info from your breeder . Julie
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You dont mean the pup is coming home at 6 weeks of age do you? Do you know much about how its been reared and if its going to be with its litter and its Mum right up to home time? Have you spoken with the breeder about this ?
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Yep I know its the best way to learn as long as you listen with an open mind and say so when you are wrong. thanks again Julie
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Cavandra is right and there are some adverse affects from overdoses of vitamin D and you do need less in the summer assuming your dog is getting exposure to the direct sunlight . And advising someone to give a suppliment is against everything I ve been preaching for years so obviously I shouldnt have said cod liver oil . I certainly should have waited to hear what is already being fed as some dog foods [ commercial] have too much vitamin D anyway . Ive never heard of over heating of the blood with this but I believe its possible as it certainly is with some carbo hydrates . I didnt mean to give excess amounts over a long period of time but thank you for pulling it up cavandra and telling me to pull my head in. However as stated by Drs. Foster & Smith, here http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=2&articleid=710 quote Vitamin D toxicities, as with Vitamin A, are extremely rare. A dog fed Vitamin D in excess could have abnormal amounts of calcium deposited within the heart, various muscles, and other soft tissues. This is rare and we have never heard of it happening in real life situations. Suffice it to say that Vitamin D plays a major role in skeletal growth, muscle control, and nerve functions. Deficiencies are fairly common and toxicities are rarely, if ever, present. End quote
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You cant over dose on vitamin D and you dont get birth defects from vitamin D I think you may have it confused with vitamin A which is also in cod liver oil and yes too much does cause birth defects . Red cordial ? http://baliforfamilies.com/bali_belly_and_raspberry_cordial.htm http://health.centreforce.com/health/berries.html
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Can you give me an idea of what he has been fed? Id try some other oils with a more food base such as giving him a can of sardines in oil or some cod liver oil before I settled for parafin.
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Oh , How really really horrible .I know better than anyone how these guys work so hard to become part of the family and grow into your heart. Even just reading about your Steve made me cry again for my Polly . Thats why I own so many of them I guess.
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Well Done . Congrats all round. :D Julie
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Oh She's a Maremma Right?
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How Do You Stop You Beagle Pup Jumping Up On Your Leg
Steve replied to beaglenewb's topic in Puppy Chat
Noise or a growl when he's doing something you dont want him to do and a reward when he does what you do want him to do. So GROOOOOOWWWl ,clap your hands , loud noise when he jumps up and a treat or soft words and a pat when he's on the gound. You can get an old coke can and fill it with stones with masking tape over the top. Shake it when he does something he shouldnt and give him a treat when he stops. -
O.K. First ,if you only bought this dog three weeks previously before any treatment you should have contacted the breeder . Second , you cant just say 'probably Perthes ' the breeder needs a definite diagnosis . Third in any case like this the breeder will need a second opinion. At law it is up to the breeder to replace, refund or repair and you took it off to your own repairer after the dog has an accident , contract that repairer to do the repairs for a large amount of money and dont involve the manufacturer until after the repair work has been completed .Now you want the breeder to pay - Normally the breeder would make good because you purchased the dog and now cant use it for the purpose for which it was intended but now the dog has been desexed and treated without speaking with the breeder this could get very messy. At law the breeder will have to pay at least some if its proven it had a problem before sale. Fourth , the breeder needs definites to be able to make informed decisions regarding her breeding program and cant make these effectively with "probablies" . If it is Perthes' this will have a huge impact but it needs to have a defiiite diagnosis. For anyone else reading this post . Breeders insure your dogs as they leave your property , this is a free policy available to all breeders via Ford Kinter and gives free cover for 6 weeks and covers anything which isnt in evidence at time of sale.Its as simple as activating it via the net as the dog is leaving your home ,takes 2 mins to do . Buyers' ,especially those who have dogs which may develop problems like this , either take up the offer and pay the $120 to insure the dog for the first 12 months or pay another insurance company to cover you. Breeders Even if you dont use a puppy contract at the very least put in writing what you expect to happen if there is a problem . Buyers , ask the questions and ask for the breeder to put in writing what they expect to happen if something like this happens.
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My history is in herbal and natural medicine and even as a child I had a huge interest in nutrition and natural healing, preventions etc, which was fed by my Dad who was in the British medical journal as the first documented case where an ulcer was cured via natural remedies and diet . I can’t get enough of it and given the choice I study nutrition for pleasure and it’s a constant quest to understand it all. There is always something new to learn and I love it. The more you become educated on dogs, vitamins, minerals ,amino acids , enzymes how they are destroyed and interact with each other and the power they have to make such a difference to health , longevity ,the immune system and well being the more you clearly see that feeding commercial dog food just doesn’t cut it .One of my challenges was to set a canine nutrition course which doesn’t advocate one diet over any other but teaches all of these things to help people make a more educated decision on what’s best for their dogs . To get to the position Im in now where Im able to have a go at proving the way diet impacts on everything not just in one generation but how several more generations may pay more for the way a bitch is fed than the bitch herself is truly my dream come true and something Im so passionate about its sometimes hard to contain. I also have to say feeding raw made me look at other things we take for granted in owning dogs so now I look at everything holistically, and it’s impacted on how I do almost everything not just the feeding
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I ve spoken to 67 vets about this during some fishing for a research project early last year . Some dont want to by pass the yearly vaccination protocol because they believe that dog owners wont bring their dogs in then each year for a check up . They are probably right which equals loss of income and potentailly loss of the pick up of problems in early stage. But whether giving the vacs when they arent needed and possible side effects to that arent addressed. Some go by nothing but what the drug companies tell them and the drug companies are still telling them they need to do it yearly though I believe they are now saying 3 yearly is O.K. Some are changing and introducing a new protocol with boosters every 3 years but most were talking this up as if it were a new super duper drug which was more potent and more expensive than the others when in fact it is the same . Privately a couple said they agreed with this protocol but I didnt find any that were prepared to tell their clients that they didnt need to give any more vaccinations.
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Good advice Miranda .Raw eggs are good Dougie .If you cook them you chemically change the amino acids ,they are still there but different and harder for a DOG to digest . These quotes that Miranda posted from this book were some of the worst advice Ive ever seen about how to feed a puppy and personally Id go after Billinghurst's Give your Dog a Bone or Tom Lonsdale's Raw Meaty Bones .
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Much better to let it go. If you stop it or interfer you're more likely to have long term problems. The less you intervene the quicker it will settle down . Beagles are bred to be part of a pack so let them play and work it all out for themselves because eventually thats what they will do anyway - you're just prolongng the agony .The bitch will belt him when she's had enough if she knows you're not going to step in but if you keep breaking it up she will expect you to do it all the time so it will take much longer for him to get the message.