kateykateykatey

deelee I am by no means an expert, but at dog school with my dogs we practice "watch" (which we teach initally by taking a treat to the eye, and later replacing that with a hand signal that is something like tapping next to the eye). You could also practice targeting (nose to closed fist) as a way of getting the dog to stop and focus while on walks. As for recall, at dog school we learn (and practice) this while on leash, by walking the dog (with a loose leash) and running backwards, saying the dog's name and "coooome" when the dog looks at us and rewarding when the dog gets to us. Great work on the progress, though! Loose lead walking can be a slow and frustrating process, but well worth it.

See, the infin8 collar has got to be one of the best things I've bought.. and I guess this demonstrates how different things work for different people. We needed something for Scrimp (who is dog reactive) that was a bridge between a regular collar (he's too strong for me if he lunges at another dog) and a head collar, which although offers better "control" wrt the lunging also lead to head thrashing and wailing. *LOTS* of work on our behalf and a consult with a private trainer, as well as dog school and a good leadership program mean that Scrimp is getting much better at dealing with his dog reactivity. The infin8 collar means I can walk him with greater confidence, which makes all the difference when we encounter another dog (confident leader = confident dog).

Our behavioural vet recommended Megan Molloy from Canine Interaction. Her classes are great, not sure if she's doing private consults at the moment, but her dog school will also teach you *lots* about leadership. We had a private consult with a different behaviouralist, Trish from GoodDog training, who was recommended to us by Megan. She was great also. Good luck! :rolleyes:

Oh! I just read this. Not sure if anyone has replied yet, either. Canine Interaction in Croydon Park are excellent, and Megan's just started more times because there's been a really high demand for classes (she's that good). It's not quite North Eastern Adelaide, but I live NE of the city and it only takes me 20 mins max to get there. Well worth it. Her website is Canine Interaction

I don't know if you're still considering getting one, but I have one for Scrimp the BC cross, and it's awesome. He's not a puller, but he is dog reactive, so the infin8 is really effective in helping to minimise lunging- much more so than a gentle leader (which we used beforehand).

Have you tried calm on command? I am slowly reinforcing this in my dogs, as one of mine gets anxious when the weather changes. When he is calm, I simply pat him and say "yes- calm" etc... to reinforce that word with that behaviour. I've seen some success with it when he's been a bit wound up, and I've said "be CAALM". I use calming signals on him when he's stressed (during thunderstorms) as well, such as yawning and exaggerated lick lipping (though I feel like a goober sometimes, it works).

Oh wow, ok, that's much more serious than I'd thought! I remember the vet being against them, but for the life of me, I'm not certain why (except for my vague reasoning above).

Agree with all of the above. It's not a quick process, but it's worthwhile, because it's only going to get worse. I tend to disagree with the "let him in to stop the barking" logic, because it (IMO) teaches him that that type of barking and behaviour will get that kind of (in his opinion) positive result. But...persisting will take some courage, and as PW says, some earplugs. Definitely increase exercise and training to as much as you can, we aim for 2-3 walks a day and some training at home, just simple stuff like practicing sitting, staying, dropping, rolling over etc. It's all very positive, rewarding and fun. Our dog has a kennel outside, so I give him the command "go to bed" and give him his kong in his kennel, once he's dropped. I try to never go outside to do this while he's barking, I wait till he's quiet, and then go out. If you're looking at crate training I imagine this is all different, but the point here is reinforcing that he has his place to go and sleep, with something that he licks (and in doing so, self soothes). It's a bit soft, and terrible environmentally, but I also leave the outside light on. I *think* this reduces the random barking a little, but it's also so he can't see us inside (our back door and windows are glass) if the lights are off. Less of an issue now, though. (touch wood) As for the barking collars, as PW said-- our vet advised against them for our dog. I can't remember the logic exactly, but I think she said something along the lines of how the dog might think that we were inflicting the shock on him, because he was barking at us. I don't remember exactly, and I hope someone else explains, because I could be wrong... but she definitely advised against them!

That's fantastic, amypie.

Oh! Is it that other people are putting their hands around his middle? I vaguely recall picking Lil up and her...not yelping...but being unhappy about how I picked her up. I wasnt deliberately rough or heavy handed, but likely had poor technique. Could this be an issue? I'm really guessing.

That makes perfect sense!

yeah, sorry, I realised that after I'd initially posted, when I bothered to look at the link! I think it's just a vest, not a vest with lots of pockets. And it's polar fleece, so not a great deal better than the jumper! Why don't you like the treat bag? My partner uses a bumbag (makes him look kinda goofy) but I carry the treats in a zip lock bag in my pocket. I smell beautiful afterwards too.

I understand what the second trainer is saying, but I tend to think (owning a similar sized dog ) that picking up and handling the way I imagine he's getting handled is unavoidable. As you said, it may simply be a small child, or even adults doing it, and although in theory they shouldn't, it's not inconceivable that they might try. Furthermore, he may need to be handled in situations like vet visits, etc... so I'd go with what the first trainer says. ...Not that I have any behaviourist education etc, so my advice may well be wrong... just that I now know what it's like to own a small dog that everyone wants to touch. ETA some more words.

Black Dog Vests...just looking, they're um, meant to be warm, not so much useful for treats in pockets and such like.

On sale, AFAICR. I'll stop being so amazingly lazy in a second and find the link :rolleyes:

Seems obvious but this was something I've never thought of, and have probably done.

Black dog had some on sale on their website. Just in case you haven't bought a fishing one. :rolleyes:

He's not going to like it initially, because as far as I can tell you've taught him that if he barks, he gets let inside, now he's not getting that result he may bark more intensely. This was what happened with my dog, atleast. It's awful and upsetting.

With my dog, walking two times in the day (morning and early afternoon) worked well. I found late evening walks not terribly effective, but it's a matter of experimenting and seeing what works for you. Also feeding him earlier in the evening, and I switched to feeding our dog twice a day.

Does he get enough exercise and other stimulation? My dog is a BC x and he has been a "problem barker" in the past (and tried it again tonight). Water never worked for him, it became a game, bark at the back door and then run really fast up to the furthermost corner of the yard so you don't get splashed". Increased stimulation during the day works, somewhat, as does (painful as this is) ignoring attention barks. Our dog used to get let in once he'd worked himself up so much that he would bark constantly, and this just perpetuated the barking cycle. You can try a kong stuffed with something really licky (peanut butter springs to mind) and even frozen for prolonged use given to him when he's quiet. The licking (according to the vet) relieves anxiety or something.

Thanks goldiesRgreat, you were definately helpful. Scrimp has medium hair but his winter coat is still coming out, and although I've brushed him lots, but I thought maybe a proper dog wash might help get it out...? Not sure on this. It had never occured to me that mobile dog washers might not be nice or gentle! I've never used any, I used to work with a girl who absolutely loved dogs and wanted to start her own mobile dog washing, so assumed that all operators were the same... Probably not a correct assumption.

Clomicalm is contra-indicated in matters pertaining to aggression. I've read this when you posted it before, is this because it inhibits the dog's fear, so might make them more likely to attack? (if that makes sense)

I had a look on his site, it's $60 for an hour lesson. I linked to it on page 1, but here's another Canine Training...but on Monday we're seeing a really nice lady recommended by a trainer (that Ness knows) who was recommended by a really great vet (the trainer, not Ness;) ).

fwiw, there really was border collie pups being sold at harris scarfe, i was in there today, 1 was left.

Any recommendations for who does dog washing in this area (Tea Tree Gully) and if I should go somewhere, or get a mobile dog washer to come out? Also, how much is it likely to cost? OH has grown wheat in the bit of the backyard where I would normally wash Scrimp... and I can't get Scrimp to go in the bath, but he needs a wash and his winter coat needs help coming out (in spite of all of my brushing).