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Lotsa Pet Food in Woodridge are also selling a small range of Big Dog and they sell all varieties of bones at a good price. They also sell 12kg boxes of chicken necks. Their BARF is heaps cheaper than Dr B's with no grain in it.

I have one dog who is allergic to beef and preservatives and another that has a flea allergy. I wont give either of them cortizone as I have heard too many bad stories about it. Mainly, that they can only take so much in their lifetime - and then what? I bath them in Malaseb and use Neem Oil in the rinse water. Neem Oil not only puts oils back but it is a repellent to biting insects. I have also used a horse product called Heritage Downs. The shampoo and conditioner and also they have a massage oil, which helps with the dry skin and also contains Neem Oil. I have had great results from the massage oil. I did a fairly extensive research on the internet and found that you can also use cooking oils on the skin, such as vegetable and olive oil and also to feed them Cod Liver Oil with their meals, also Fish Oil (particularly coldpressed Salmon) is the best. Fighting it all from the inside out. With the dog with the food allergy, she is fed only fresh meat and I have to be very careful what dry food she gets. I have recently been using Nutrience which has had no ill effects on her. When she chews herself, I use Aloveen Conditioner on the wound and scabs. It stops the itching and gives her relief. I am also careful not to give either of them any dry that contains wheat. Wheat is heating to the skin and makes them itchier. In your dogs case, I would suggest Neem Oil. You can add it to their rinse water after bathing them (water needs to be warm for the oil). You could also try the Massage Oil from Heritage Downs. I had great results with this with my dog who has flea allergies. She had lost most of the coat along her back, down her back legs and her tail - makes for a funny looking German Shepherd who was a long coat! Anyway, after using the Massage Oil, her coat started to grow back almost immediately. I also treat her for fleas fortnightly instead of monthly, and give her Capstar for a few days when she is bad. She also gets under the house in the dirt, and we have a bad flea season this year, making my job a little harder. Worth a try though for your dog. And good luck!

Cooked bones of any description are bad for a dog, and can splinter, moreso with chicken, but any raw bone is absolutely fine. As one poster said, straight chicken mince is great and it is relatively cheap to feed. I believe in a raw natural diet without preservatives. My German Shepherd bitch has recently had puppies, and to start with I fed the puppies BARF mixed with puppy milk. As they got older they tended to prefer straight chicken mince. I did also give them some soaked puppy biscuits, but they really weren't that keen on them. Then I fed them Nutro Large Breed puppy, not soaked, and they quite liked them. With the heat we have had in QLD, they weren't particularly interested in eating in the heat of the day, and to tempt them, I added a little Kangaroo Mince to their Chicken. Kangaroo Mince of course, has no fat, so is no good for a puppy as a diet, but mixed it is fine.

This is such a sad story. You should be applauded for the work you are putting in. Another suggestion is the Gentle Leader. Works in a similar way to the Halti, but fits a lot tighter and not only is it difficult for the dog to get off, but because it fits tighter, it is less irritating to the dog, and the dog accepts it easier than the Halti. They both come with DVD's explaining their use. On the prong collar, not sure about this one. Firstly the dog is used to having something dig into his neck, and unless its used correctly it could cause damage. I guess thats the same with any piece of equipment though. Even a flat collar used wrong can cause damage. To be blunt though, even if you got him to a point where he would walk nicely on a lead for you, how easy would he still be to rehome? Its all just so horribly sad and I get so angry with owners who treat dogs like this.

I have recently had a litter of German Shepherd puppies. I taught them all not to nip or bite. My rule is - skin and teeth dont mix. While it might be cute when they are puppies, it is not a habit you want an adult dog to have - of any breed. There are critical periods in a puppies life. Human Socialisation is from 7 -12 weeks old, and once past these critical periods, it is a lot harder to fix a problem. With my pups, what I did when they bit or mouthed, was to say "Arggh" loudly and then say NO. Then I followed what their mother did to reprimand them, and that was to place my hand over their nose, hold it firmly and take their mouth away from my skin. For the odd one that continued and mouthed my hand, I held their bottom jaw firmly, but gently until they settled and then let go. Mostly the first technique worked well. When they all went to their new homes, they all knew the word NO for anything they were doing that might be unwanted behaviour. You say you don't mind the gentle mouthing. How does the pup know what is gentle and what is harder? They don't understand different levels of the same thing, so you need to have a rule, no teeth and skin. If your pup is teething, give him a bone to chew on. Your brother needs to be educated as well, as it is pointless trying to break this habit, if he is going to reinforce it by continuing his 'play' The 12 to 16 weeks period is called the Seniority Classification Period. To quote "This phase of the puppys development is also known as the "Age of Cutting", cutting teeth and cutting apron strings. The puppy is no longer a "puppy" and should be equated with a pre-pubic 10 to 12 year old child, from whom the parents would not tolerate cheeky, pushy behaviour. The young dog mya ttempt dominance! Play biting is no longer play! It is a test of superiority! Do not permit growls or bites from this period on. If the young dog growls or bites during handling or training it should be disciplined, by using the scruff shake. By 16 weeks emotions are fully developed" This was an excerpt from Puppy Critical Periods. Take your pup to a dog obedience class near you. Trained instructors will be able to assist, but you still need to start at home. Good luck. Its all patience and consistency, and it usually comes out good in the end.

First time in these forums. I have had shepherds all my life, and have recently bred them for health and temperament. For anyone wanting a stable, loyal and intelligent breed, the Shepherd is for you. They train easily, love to be with you and are simply great to be around. Whether you decide to do showing, obedience, or Schuzhund the choice is yours. I have done obedience and agility and am a qualified instructor. Every dog of every breed has its strengths and weaknesses. Some are more capable than others to follow a certain path. The bottom line, is what YOU want out of the dog, how much time you put in, and what time you have available to follow that path. All this squabble about the breed is not doing it any favours, and goodness knows they get enough bad press as it is, with irresponsible owners. They are a fantastic versatile dog to have around.

The bone in a Roo Tail is more like gristle, so no bone bits left on the lawn, and as Roo is so lean even the overweight dog can enjoy a chew