Erny

You and Fergs will enjoy it, Megan. Be sure to take with you some tasty treats and also a good tug toy. And a clicker, if you have one. I don't use the clicker myself, for my boy's training, so it is not mandatory. But she did work with a clicker and you might like to have a play around with the ideas that Uta shows you. She'll provide you with some good tips and instruction as well.

PK9's classes resume that weekend - I won't be able to make it, unfortunately. Although I did enjoy the one she did that was organised by Eagle Heights Sport Dog Club . I'm sure those going will enjoy this one as well .

I probably wasn't clear, but that's what I meant by "and safely". IOW, have them separated so a fight over bones doesn't spoil the pleasant occupation they were intended for. PP : If that's the case, then I would ignore them until they leave you alone. Then do a recall and you're free to interact. I don't want to make this so that you have to send yourself to your bedroom !! LOL. But do try to put them outside and have them get used to the fact that "you inside" doesn't always correlate with "them inside". Denied access (to you) I think is one of the hardest things (and is commonly when dogs kick up a fuss) because they are pack animals. We humans need to teach them in the nicest and least stressful way that this is not how life always is in the human world. PP : Yes. Just as you taught "sit" in the first place, go back to the start but use the word "hello" instead. When they catch on to that and you're in the proofing stages, start giving the "hello" word in tones that visitors and children might give, so that it has a better chance of working in those scenarios. Tone of voice makes all the difference to dogs (which goes to show it is not the word that counts so much). Many people can't get my dog to sit because they use the wrong tone of voice. Once I tell them the tone he needs, then he'll respond. PP : If you make the crate a nice place to be (which is what crate "training" is about) and not a place of punishment, they should be fine. You can give them something yum to chew on as well, and you'll be assured in the safe knowledge that each has the comfort and security of their own separate crates which will keep them from harm. Working on getting them used to "denied access" will help with this as well, if the crates are outside of the room. But as a poster has already mentioned, sometimes the crates can be in the same room and this can also help with your dogs realising that "visitors" doesn't mean "dogs rule". And I think it was Cosmolo who suggested that you can teach your dogs to go to a mat when the door bell rings (and/or someone knocks). You can change that to them retreating to their crates as an 'automatic'. There's quite a few incremental steps to take to teach them this and it will help if you have the respect of 'leadership' on your side. It takes a bit of practice, but it can and does work if you keep at it. Consistency is the key, no matter how hurried you are to get to the door to answer it. That's where people often fail. I'm not backwards in coming forwards with a "WAIT ON WHILST I SORT OUT MY DOG!!" greeting to visitors - and that's BEFORE I even approach the door, LOL. I'm sure they wonder what the heck is on the other side of the door and I do wonder if they think I have some sort of attack dog in the house, LOL. Doesn't hurt for random unknown visitors to be a little bit apprehensive . I trained this trick with my friend's dog and used it as a demo for an event Pro-K9 was invited to. We had to use a block of wood to knock on as the cue, because it was too hard to carry a door around .

I'm all for what you are saying, Aidan, but I've worked with dogs who are so 'in' to doing what is wrong that it has been necessary to correct, only so that I can use the positive stuff to show them the contrast and guide them back down the other 'fork in the road' from where they were initially headed or at.

That cracked me up, Nic. However, if you want her to be even more in drive, you should put her in the front seat behind the wheel.

I love those "lip caught under teeth" looks. My boy will do that either in the same "on guard" situation as yours, or sometimes when we are playing mental games (of course, the eyes are different in each). I'd say the "lip caught" look is one of my faves.

Thanks for posting that, CC. That's a good pro-active gesture on KCC's part . I so hope that everyone who is experiencing this hot weather and winds come through unscathed. My wishes are for a 'non-event'.

Unfortunately yes - it can happen both ways. Which is why having an open mind along with a good broad knowledge of different techniques and when and how to apply them according to what would work the best for the dog, taking the owner into account also, is a good thing.

And the "low level drive" you are trying to illustrate may well be that Kivi doesn't quite 'get' the exercise, maybe because of how you are structuring it. I delivered my post with the thought of being helpful. But there you go.

Yes - like that in principal. As Kiesha09 has an archway leading to the front door, a baby gate might even be enough to do the job. Not sure what sort of dog (ie big/little) but if it is little enough, this may well do the trick. It is a management thing though - and management has this funny habit of at least once in our lifetimes of letting us down. So I'd still apply some basic training to teach the dog to not go through doorways unless invited, at least as a back-up plan. It may not prove as a guarantee, but might be enough to provide that one second's hesitation which in some cases buys just enough time for us to fix the errors we create (ie leaving b/gate and front door open).

I agree with this. For dogs with behaviour issues - be it aggression or fear without aggression, I like to do one-on-one consults with the owner and dog before they join our classes. For one, there are times when any group of dogs/people is too high an intensity for the dog to cope with and if it is possible prefer to work on day to day lower intensity situations until the owner gets a handle on how to apply the recommended strategies and until the dog begins to understand what is required and through the strategies programmed at consultation level, begins to increase its self-confidence and confidence in the owner's abilities. For two, it means that when the owner comes to class, he/she will know what they need to do and when and for a good part do not require one-on-one assistance (other than a bit of help along the way, as you do for any member of class anyway) throughout the class time itself. But I do understand what Diablo is saying - I know of Clubs who do actively turn their backs on problematic dogs. I know of a Club or two who have recommended pts, when the only thing wrong was lack of leadership and the inability (or preferred avoidance) to apply a well timed correction.

Good "Airlock system" I think is the name I was trying to think of.

From the very first, I trained my boy so that he is told when he CAN go through a door way, rather than training him to not go through when he is told NOT to. There are things such as having two doors (there's a name for the system, but I can't think of it) - you go in through one and close it before you go through the other. You could potentially construct something similar by having a gate and enclosure directly outside of your front door. This will ensure that your dog can't make that unexpected 'dash'. The garage door 'dash' would pose a different problem and the only thing there would be to not permit your dog access to it. If that is used as your dog's shelter, then you might need to think of an alternative. These are the practical mechanical solutions - the other relates to training and I've sent you a PM on that. But nothing will be as guaranteed as a secure fence or other method of barrier.

If you want to trigger drive though, the movements need to be such that they immitate that of a prey animal. The movements you put into the prey item (tug) don't have to be big, but the energy you use to excite your dog could be higher. In the video clip you showed as an example of your tug game with Kivi, I don't think I much saw you move your two feet from the ground. I saw a dog move into a little bit of drive (beginnings of), but then flattened out. I'm not sure (as there was no sound with the clip I watched) but perhaps as soon as he got into 'tug' you gave him a command to 'give'? That's what your body language seemed to be saying to me, anyway - and if I can pick that up, sure as eggs Kivi can too. It is as though you are saying to him "no sooner are you into it then I will interrupt it". Let him get into it and be a bit excited about it yourself. Reward his biggest/best tug efforts by letting him win the tug. You mention that he flattens out pretty quickly, and if that's the case I'd allow him to enjoy the game a bit more before you get him off the tug. Get him going and really put some high energy into it yourself and quit before he does. I noticed in the clip you showed that he quit first, then you did. It needs to be the opposite way around. That's assuming you want to train in this way and really get those heightened results, regardless of whether you are in your back yard or down at the park. If you're happy to do what you're doing though, the way you do it, then that's ok .

Yes - but Nynka, I have a 1.75m lead. By the Council's rule alone, I could get nabbed for that, even though I fold it and hold it to suitable length according to the environment and what I am doing at the time. Setting a lead length such as 1 metre is IMO ridiculous not only for the fact that does not take into account the differential height between handler/dog. I thought the Councils had already placed a "no dog within X metre distance of playground/BBQ area". Perhaps not every Council has done that, and/or perhaps the prohibition on distance is different for each Council. But that's beside the point. We have so many prohibitions/laws imposed on us and the only one it seems to affect are the ones who were already using common sense and being responsible dog handlers in the first place. And we're the one's who are easier to 'get' and the ones who, in our law abiding way, usually pay the fines. As I mentioned - you can't legislate against stupid people.

Have you tried Bunnings? Not sure if they have exactly what you are after, but they would be worth asking - perhaps those taps that many people insert into wheely bins to use those as water storage for gardens? I know you said the "kitchen" is a long way from your garden. Without knowing your layout, I'm wondering why it has to be the kitchen? I had a plumber arrange for hot/cold water taps to be installed on the exterior wall of my decking. In my case, the plumbing taps into that which was in the laundry, but it could have been bathroom or any other spot where water pipes run the closest. Not that I do it often, but it is great to be able to hose off (I use a soft sprayer - purchased from Bunnings - so that the blast of water isn't too hard) and know that the run-off water goes to the garden. It is also good to be able to rinse off dog without it all being shaken to shower the bathroom walls.

What you've done is the way I'd start it as well - using relaxed off territory environments. Glad you got onto it so quickly. You could take him for a casual stroll through areas where there are more diversity of people 'types' (male; female; bearded; smooth face; different skin colouring; etc). I wouldn't make a big fuss about anything. Just go for a walk as though you weren't trying or focusing on or anticipating/looking out for any behaviour from Atlas. If all that is ok, bring it back to where the 'event' occurred as well (ie your home). I'd intro 'soft' people first (females are often better in these circumstances, but that is quite a generalisation, however as this intruder who gave the fright was a male, starting with female might be the way to go), to my home beginning with familiar and then not so familiar people. I'd have Atlas on lead and out the front when they arrive, having the guests walk in first, just to make sure all is ok with Atlas about that. If it is, then re-work the exercise with Atlas in the home. Keep it all very relaxed, almost as though the alarming event didn't happen in the first place. Obviously, I'm erring completely on the side of caution in this - the careful structure I've hinted at (and is an example only) is potentially unnecessary. But only you know Atlas and can make the judgement call as to how incremental you chose to take this. It is just that Atlas has already had the fright from the intruder, and then there was the follow up visit by the police, with both he and you already and still distraught. Might pay to just do a 'check' on whether there is any carry-over effect for Atlas and whether there has been any environmental pairing that has occurred.

You are 100% correct ZA and I acknowledge my error in forgetting the use of something like Calendula might not be a good thing for (eg) a pollen allergy dog. My apologies for such an important omission.

Wolfclan - it would more than likely be the Council Rangers who 'police' this new bi-law. But even still, I would have thought they'd have more important jobs to do too. Although this one would bring them in some more ready cash without the hassle. Thing is, our State seems to be trying to outlaw stupidity. That will never happen by banning things. All that does is targets the more sensible people who would most likely use their own common sense discretion about how long their lead should be when in crowded areas. Generally, the 'stupid' people (ie no common sense) carry on oblivious.

Glad you find it works for you too, Danois. As many would know (especially in recent times with my boy's troubles) I use the Calendula tea as well and a good 'side-effect' apart from the reduction of rashes and itchies is that it seems to leave the skin AND coat really nice and clean and fresh feeling/smelling. It helps the skin by acting as an anti-bacterial against secondary skin infection and it is non-oily, which I expect wouldn't serve to clog up the skin, allowing it to breath, and wouldn't attract dirt/dust as oily treatments might. I guess the trick there would be to not make the Alpha Keri Wash over concentrated. I've never used Alpha Keri Wash and I must admit that I have stored the name of this in the back of my mind, should I feel the Calendula isn't working well enough for my boy. I do take into account the testimonials of those who have used it with success, so I am not boo-hooing it by any stretch. But I find the Calendula is something you can use even without going through bathing rituals. I have used it as a spray on (and then rub it in so that it reaches the skin) but find that with my short-haired boy, dipping a flannel into the brew and applying it (soaked) directly onto his coat, giving it a bit of a (gentle) rub, is all that is required. In this way I can do it as often as needs be and can just do the affected areas as appropriate. ETA: I let mine steep for 40 minutes or until the water has cooled to room temperature. Sometimes I have refrigerated it if I have prepared it a little in advance of use (eg overnight for use the next morning).

I think it would be good for your dogs to learn that just because you're in the house doesn't mean they can or need to be by your side and that it is ok to be closed away from you. That's something you'll most likely need from time to time, when you have your own children. So you can begin building on that incrementally. I don't know if your dogs are used to the idea of being outside even though you're home, but if not, that's a good place to start. Give them a bone they can happily (and safely) munch on in the yard, and deny them access to the house by closing the door. Short periods at first, gradually building up to longer periods. Also make a point of not going straight out to the yard to let them in once you return from being out. Have them wait a bit (and only permit them in if they are quiet and not hassling. If you crate train your dogs now, you'll be able to use that for when children come over, and for when you have your own. You'll find this a boon - using a crate to help in training and to give you those albeit short but necessary moments when you don't have to be forever watching the dogs. Also helps to keep your dogs safe from some children too . Check your leadership (looking from your dog's pov) and also work on some training with your dogs - especially stay work (sit/drop) and recall. Teach your dogs to be calm around children - I think you've made a good start by having them on lead, so you are in a position where you can control their activity. Get them used to having their ears and tail tugged, to their paws being grabbed, and so forth. These are all things that children might do unwittingly. Teach your dogs to sit on the word "hello" and to wait calmly even though children might be noisy and behaving irratically. This comes from teaching the 'sit' and sit/stay and then proofing by steadily but incrementally increasing the intensity of movement around them. When you have children around, even gently but firmly hold your dogs in the sit (assuming they are not afraid of children) whilst the children have a pat (teach the kids how to approach properly) or whilst they walk in the door. There are also things to do in preparation for when, one day, you have your own children and those things should be begun 2 or 3 months before the first child is expected to arrive. Remember that and ask early, so that you and your dogs can make use of the strategies/tips that are available, in advance.

Dova - can you build on pack drive? This is about exemplifying your leadership. The Triangle of Temptation exercises are good for this.

Not sure that you are thinking of the right stuff, Whippets. With VAN Complete Mix, you put the appropriate amount in a bowl, add water quantity, and allow it to ferment over night (12 hours). Simple. The grain seeds do not sprout and even if they did, that would be way too long to leave it. When you've used that fermented mix with your dog's meal, you simply put another quantity of the VAN mix in the bowl, add water, and leave that to sit until the next day's meal. I found it very easy to use and I am sooooo not into playing "chef" - although I will do that too if it is for my dog's sake.

That's a great photo, Shell.

Go Atlas!! Atta boy . Glad you're ok, Fran. Must say, I think YOU handled the whole thing very well. So, Atta girl, Fran !! Fran - if you can, it would be a good time to re-socialise Atlas again, giving him a positive experience, just as a 'finishing touch' to his new learning. It might not be necessary, but it would be something I'd do, just to be sure he is being discriminate and not taking the frightening experience as more than a 'one-off'.