Tonymc

Diva,firstly have a look at your Leadership inregard to this Pup.How old is the Pup?I will assume he is only a young Pup and therefore small.A Small Pup can of course only jump so high and I am again assuming that for him to reach Noses,you must be placing yourself down on his Level or have him sitting on your Lap.

If he is going for your Nose whilst stting on your Lap,immeditately put him down so he associates jumping for your Nose with the negative of being put down and losing your attention.If your kneeling down or getting down to his level and he is jumping try these approaches.As soon as he jumps,get up walk away and ignore him.Another way is to reward him for calm quite behaviour, by Growling at him when he jumps and when he sits back calmly reward him with a Treat.

I mentioned to check your Leadership, because many times we think we are showing clear Leadership but through the Dog"s eyes it may not be so clear.Note when you see a Dog dominating or trying to dominate another Dog,it will place its Head over or above the other Dogs Head.Some Dogs mistakenly assuming Leadership will try to do the same to us. Tony

Myszka, you have already half solved the problem.Half the task is knowing what the problem is and you know that.

Modelling is a process used to short cut learning or gaining certain results.Modelling can be used in any area of Life.I would look around seek out somebody who has the Body language that gets effective results from their Dog/s.Talk to this Person and ask if they are willing to help you.Then model your approach,body language,frame of mind on theirs as thats what Modelling is.

Get this Person to watch and give an objective opinion on how you are going.

Also for every movement or exercise your wanting your Dog to perform,there is a effective body position or language.Isolate what is the best Body position for you to be in for each movement or exercise.Make up some small cards,one for each Behaviour your asking the dog for.On each card have a reminder of the Body position you need to be in.Make these Cards small enough to carry with you for easy reference.

Start small and do not be too hard on yourself as your changing Habits.The more your Practise the more second Nature the appropriate body Language will become. Tony

Wajoma,very interesting your post. Tony

Kermat,I would check how your Dog see"s you inregard to Leadership.You might think what the Hell has Leadership got to do with riding in the Car?

A Dog see"s going on a walk as going on a Hunt.To a Dog driving in the Car is also going on a Hunt.A Dog that has Dominant tendencies or mistakenly thinking it is top Dog will want to lead the Hunt.This type of Dog when driving in a Car,will in his mind see the Hunt as being led from the Front and this transalates to being the Front Seat.These type of Dogs will get excited and frustrated in the back,wanting to get to the Front Seat and lead.

Hence the reason why I say check your Leadership. Tony

Bruno,different People will have different views on this.With my last Pup I fed him three times a Day till he was about 7 Months. Tony

Vicky,I could not say it any better than what the four Posters above me have done.Follow their suggestions and you will get the result your after. Tony

Mil,I have to agree with Poodle Fan too much to soon.Be careful when the Pup does show fear that you do not reinforce the Fear and be watchful that he does not become conditioned to associate Fear with the Leash. tony

I have always gone with the Concept that its to mask their scent from Prey Animals.You should see some of our Dogs when they come back from up the Paddock totally Green from Cow Manure. Tony

Frank,like Allerzeit said get the Pup checked for Entropion as the symptoms are there. Tony

quote from Tunsafun.

My friend absolutely adores Sheeka, spoils her rotten, but is still letting sheeka exhibit acceptable behaviour. she still finds it funny when sheeka jumps up and bites at faces. today she was bitten on her chin, so maybe she'll figure it out.

Theres the Key to this whole Matter,your Friend and her approach!!!This is another People problem.I would be getting your Friend to read,learn and experience as much as possible about proper Dog Leadership!!!Humans can make or break a Dog.

Your remark from above does not make sense unless its a typo? "but is still letting her exhibit acceptable behaviour"I do not let my Dogs exhibit acceptable behaviour,I ask for it and get it by treating the Dogs as Dogs. Tony

Frank,can I ask a personal question Buddy?When you were growling at your Pup, may I ask what Breed you were pretending to be?LOL

All jokes aside Frank, you already know about Dog Leadership and how it functions.I see the bottomline here being to make sure your Daughter understands Pack Structure and Dynamics so she can through her behaviour take position in the pack above the Pup. tony

FGM, I could not say it any better than Roo.Yes consistency is the key. tony

Squirt, good to hear that things have improved for you and the Dog.The Vicks as you saw is a good deterrent. Tony

Tris, I would the diagnosis of getting in first is right.

You could try this approach.As you mentioned Obedience Training would be a big help.Obedience training with distractions would be really helpful with this Dog.The distractions best used in this case are other Dogs of course.

I am assuming that this Dog lives in close proximity to other Dogs as you state in the above Post.As you said off leash he gets along fine with the others.Off leash the Dog of course does not have the fear and feeling of entrapment.

I would make use of one of the other Dogs that he gets along with off leash.I would utilise his home enviroment to make use of the security he feels there.Have another Person put one of the dogs he is familiar with, on a Collar and Leash.Have the Fearful Dog on a Collar and Leash also.The person with the Fearful Dog needs to start for example practising exercises such as Sit and reward the Dog when he complys.Meantime the Person holding the Friendly Dog is some distance off.The person incharge of the fearful Dog needs to dictate to the Handler of the friendly Dog how far off they stay or when its ok to move slightly closer.Take note of the Fearful Dogs reaction as the other Dog is gradually moved in closer.do not get the other Dog to rush in too soon.Rather than that just move the other Dog in till the fearful Dog slightly reacts and that will tell his fear threshold.When you have that established, leave the friendly dog there at that distance whilst still working through excersises and rewarding the Fearful Dog.What we are trying to do is to link the rewards with the approach of another Dog.

Depending on how entrenched the fear is, the fearul Dog may or may not react at all to a friendly Dog he knows.In the advent of the fearful Dog not reacting at all to the use of a Dog he knows, then use a reliable friendly Dog he does not know.

As the fearful Dog shows by his reaction that he is ok with a Dog at a certain distance, gradually in stages work the other Dog in closer.Keep up the rewards.

Once the Fearful Dog is ok at Home I would then repeat the Process in another enviroment.I would also if possible when doing this exercise use as many different Dogs as I could. Tony

My Dogs and pup get right into the Chicken frames and I basically with the addition of Roo, follow the same program as Tilly above. Tony

I was dissapointed with Smackos!!!I fed my Dog Smackos and he never did apprehend a Purse Snatcher!!! Tony

Roo, well said Buddy!!!! Tony

I bought a Jar of Nappy rash creme from the Chemist for $3.50. This creme was Zinc and Castor Oil and worked so well on Hot Spots. tony

Types of training I am into are Cattle and Sheep work,obedience,cattle dog trials.I have an interest in Protection training and Shutzhund work. tony

Erin, try this as I am sure they will grow out of it but you have to deal with their behaviour in the Meantime.

Rather than have their Beds at Ground or low level, look at ways of raising the Beds.Also put something old out there on Ground level that they have been peeing on.This will help them initally to make a distinction between Bed and something else. Tony

Bruno,I wonder about the possibility of a Respiratory infection? Tony

Frank, try this for starters.Get a Cottonball and coat it in Vicks Vapor Rub.Take it to your and let him or her get a dose or hit of the Vicks.This will be unpleasant for the Pup of course.Then smear a bit of Vicks on things you do not want chewed. Tony

No worries Squirt, it will be interesting to see how you get on. Tony

Monah,thank you for your kind words. Tony

Squirt, you have a People Problem as well as a Dog problem.The key to changing the Dogs behaviour is getting your visitors to comply with your wishes.

I know getting people to do what we want can be a problem at times.I would put it to them in this way."I want my Dog to be a well balanced and well behaved Dog as that will make life better and happier for both the Dog and I.I know you are a good Friend and I would like to ask you a big Favor.I would ask you,when you visit to please follow what I suggest inregard to my Dog.I know you are a great Friend and will not mind helping me out and it will mean a great deal to me and the Dog!!!!"

Squirt, once you have the visitors onside then explain to them that when they enter the room and sit down, they must ignore the Dog initially.No eye contact no nothing.The Dog may well of course jump on them and try it on.Still ignore her and if she persists take her out of the room for a while.Then bring her back in and try again. Tony