Jump to content

Video Of Aggressive Tibetan...


 Share

Recommended Posts

hey guys... I know what you are thinking... and no. I just happened to be patting him there in those vids :thumbsup:

He is equally aggressive when you touch him on the other side... and more so when you touch his body. That is why I said the vids are pretty useless and I didnt get what I wanted. My partner is impatient and I didnt have enough time. And the lady was asking stupid questions. She kept asking why the kids cant chase him and why he cant be on the lounge/bed etc. I had trouble trying to explain it differently each time in hopes she would understand. :eek:

WHat happens is he is happy when he wants to interact or he is happy with the level of interaction HE wants. When you pass that border, whatever the border is he has set at that moment, he attacks. He was looking over away from me because he wanted the girls. When he meets a female, he immediately starts humping her and does not stop. No matter what. You pick the female up, he jumps up and tried to bite both person and dog.

If you walk too close to him when he is cranky, he will come after you! I wish I had had better help on the day, but you can only get what you can :( Cant hold the camera and provoke him at the same time. May be able to get some video of him this week. I will get better help and show you different situations.

I will show you what happens when

- a female is near

- he is picked up

- he is yelled at by his mum

- his mum tries to feed him a treat

You know a wagging tail doesnt necessarily mean the dog is happy right? You have to look at the position of his ears and eyes as well. His tail is up and wagging... his ears are pinned back and his eyes were wide and intense.

He didnt look directly at me to warn me, he showed teeth and looked out the corner of his eye. His hackles never came up.

His family has a hard time with it because he does not appear to them to be a nasty dog. They think because he wags his tail that he is being friendly. Then they dont understand why he bites.

This dog couldnt care less about his family. He owns them. He will do anything to get to a female. He was looking over to the right all the time because my 12week old desexed bitch was over there. When he meets a bitch he goes straight to the vulva and has a good lick for a minute and then mounts her and will not stop humping unless he falls off when they move away (in that case he chases and humps on the move anyway!!!!). The bitch can turn and snap and he pays no attention. His behaviour is really disgusting. So I have to disagree... desexing him will make a difference! Its not the solution, but it will help, especially with focus. :)

I really feel its hopeless though, they probably think I am a nutcase telling them they cant have him on the bed or lounge anymore and the kids cant play chase!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I totally understand and thus cannot comment on only vid 2 that I saw, but his ears were up and tail wagging until ur hand came near and then ears down and mauling. So yes, he def didnt like u near him.

If I was u, I would just take him. Even if u dont keep him, he cant stay with that lady it sounds.

Maybe lock him in your laundry for 2 weeks etc and do what K9 Force said. I'm sure K9 can tell u who he recommends in QLD.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

K9: I have a great program I designed called the TRIANGLE of TEMPTATION.

Unlike other feeding programs, it doesnt require you to handfeed the dog which adds fear at feed time on some dogs...

I usually only provide this program to clients but as its a good cause, (& I wanna raise my pack structure above Suzanne )

Here are the notes I send out.... Keep in mind when you release the dog, it will be heading away from conflict, can eat in peace & that is the reward.

When the dog is looking at you, you know the dog trusts you, this will break down the lack of eye contact quick smart...

Triangle of Temptation.

I use this program with every dog I train. It’s remarkably effective for gaining control with no force. I have used it with dogs for many years that have been trained to engage a man in combat & would not hesitate to attack me if it were not for this program. It works equally well on weak nerved or problem dogs...

The best part about this program is that it gives confidence & obedience control with no conflict & it takes no time as you need to feed the dog anyway...

The bases of this program is to have the dog look to you for guidance & permission to partake in anything you say that the dog can, including food, toys, game etc & the whole thing is a set up in which the dog gains success.

To begin the program we must follow basic training principles, they are the learning phase, the correction phase & the distraction phase.

Whilst few corrections if any are given by the handler to the dog, the corrections are given by negative punishment methods of withholding something the dog thought was his/hers.

The key to starting is to have a food driven dog, if you don’t have a dog with a high food drive, miss the meal before you start or at least reduce it by ¾. Fasting is healthy for dogs.

Now you have a dog that wants the food.

Prepare the meal inside & this should be done after all higher members have eaten.

Next back tie your dog with a flat buckle collar (non correctional collar) & rope to something solid in your yard. Make sure all other dogs are out of site, we are looking for as low a distraction as possible.

Allow your dog to relax on the back tie, a few minutes is usually enough.

Now bring out your dogs food & place it several metres in front of the dog, enough distance so the dog can see it but not so close as he can almost stretch to get it, most times about 5 – 8 metres is great.

Now you will find our dog looking at the food, possibly trying to get to it, this is what you want.

If the dog is going to hysterics, move the food further away.

What it shows is that the dog thinks that he is entitled to the food, but that’s not the case.

Approach your dog & stand at his right hand side. Pick up the leash & stand quietly whilst the dog gets all excited for the food.

One of two things will happen, either the dog will go on & on & just stare at the food or he will sit down & look at you.

If he doesn’t sit down, use the leash to guide the dog into a sit, call the dog by name. You want to see the dog look at you, when he/she does be quick to release the dog with an OK command & let the dog loose to eat the food, you should sound very happy.

The next evening you will repeat the same. This exercise is very effective, as you need to feed your dogs anyway, so they may as well learn at the same time.

You are looking to repeat this until when you place the food down, the dog looks at you & not the food. I can have most dogs do this in 2 – 4 days.

Looking at you means the dog sees you as the person in charge; he has given up staring at the food as he knows that it’s you who say when he can have it, & he can only have it when you say so.

The triangle is formed by drawing a line between you, the dog & the treasure.

When you have a good sit stay, as that is what is being built here, you can remove the back tie & keep it in your hands, if the dog should break the stay, you begin again.

Your looking to increase the time the dog has to stay sitting by 10 seconds per day until you get over three minutes.

When three minutes has been gained & you will be certain you can go farther, start to increase the distance between you & the dog, whilst holding the tie out rope.

You should increase this distance by increments of 1 metre.

Up until you did this, the dog was viewing the food (treasure) as unobtainable, & you as unbeatable.

Now by increasing the distance the dog will start to feel the food is obtainable & you just might be beat able.

The long rope will teach the dog very quickly that you are not.

The rule you need to remember is:

Time before distance before distraction.

This is essential for a marked improvement every day.

When you find yourself able to wander inside while the food bowl sits there UN touched by the dog, you’re ready to add distraction.

Allow a second dog now to eat from its own bowl perhaps, remain out of site for a period of time, and change the environment to outside the front gate perhaps. These are just some ways to add distraction.

Build reliability into your dog by working it.

When you’re at this level you will never have a dominance problem with your dog, you can’t have, he looks at you to make the big decisions, like when he can have his treasure.

Feel free to substitute the food for another treasure, such as a treat, ball, toy or an open back door or front gate.

The key is that this gives you control of all the treasures in life, each repetition is positively rewarded at the end by allowing the dog the treasure, when you say he can have it.

Advanced moves can be easily trained such as recalling the dog past the food, from the food etc etc.

*******************************************************

This article is copyright protected (2004) © and can not be used or distributed without K9 force consent. You are, however, allowed to distrubute this link to direct people to this site.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This dog couldnt care less about his family. He owns them. He will do anything to get to a female. He was looking over to the right all the time because my 12week old desexed bitch was over there. When he meets a bitch he goes straight to the vulva and has a good lick for a minute and then mounts her and will not stop humping unless he falls off when they move away (in that case he chases and humps on the move anyway!!!!). The bitch can turn and snap and he pays no attention. His behaviour is really disgusting. So I have to disagree... desexing him will make a difference! Its not the solution, but it will help, especially with focus.

Arianwen, I have to disagree. The only thing desexing MAY do is decrease his drive for the bitch. Other than that, it will not give him more focus and it will not lessen his dominance. From what you say, most of this little dog's behaviour is status based and as such this is either due to a: his individual personality and b: his owners have allowed this behviour to progress.

Focus is a skill you train into the dog, it's not something that is achieved by desexing - there are many entire dogs out there with fantastic focus. A dog will give you focus if he is either trained to do so and/or has respect you.

Do you have the full history of this dog? This will assist with better understanding what this dog is about. Certainly sounds like a status seeking dog but I am not entirely sure all of his actions are pertaining to this.

Edited by Kelpie-i
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...