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Trick Of The Week


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Guest Pollicle

Hey Tollersowned,

A lot of freestyle people know how to teach these tricks. You could ask on a freestyle email list or there are videos available (but they're very expensive! :) ).

Edited by Lauren
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This is a great thread!!

My pup/dog naturally came to a whistle, she was beginning to ignore her name and I did the big two fingered whistle out of desperation, she got such a shock and came running over, so I continue to use it to bring her back.

Nice to know there was method in my madness, I'll be able to work with a bit more structure now with these hints, thanks.

She has no interest in food rewards, but is so keen to please.

Dianna

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She loves to fetch things, but doesn't have a favorite toy. She's about 4 months old.

At this stage she's keen to do things for a cuddle and a scratch on the chest.

I didn't want to encourage tugging games as she is really good at dropping toys and balls(and I thought tug games might wreck that???), and she can be bit snappy with fingers when excited so I thought it best not to encourage any mouth or holding type games, if that makes sense.

cheers,

Dianna

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Bigbum:

Get the dog on a reasonably long leash and a short stick to guide the dog to a direction you want.

First teach get the dog to go either clockwise or anti clockwise direction.. For clockwise I use HERE/BEHIND and Anti-clockwise BACK/OVER. (first one is distance command, the other proximity command or closer in). As the dog is doing the direction, you are giving the command at the same time using short whistles with either inflection going up or down depending on which direction you want.

It is ideal that the dog has a basic understanding of the direction command first before introducing the whistle.

In sheep dog trials, some use the whistle more than verbal commands. Whistle commands are great for long distances. For example: we have to Cast the dog to behind the sheep which could be the length of a football field. The use of the whistle to stop the dog at 180 degrees to you/sheep is easier than shouting "STOP". I use a combination of both. I have found that if I want the dog to REALLY STOP.. I use the whistle... they hit the dirt like there is no tomorrow. whereas the verbal one, they dog will more likely to try and override you with their instinct.

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How did you teach directions?

How did you teach stop to the whistle?

I have got both dogs sitting on the whistle of one toot, fairly close to me, they will also do it while heeling. Do you then just expand on it?

I have heard that there is a herding seminar, would they cover whistle work?

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Bigbum.

The herding (ANKC) talked about here is largely different from the sheep dog trials I do (Working Sheep dog Association). The ANKC herding stuff is more working the dog from behind DRIVING the sheep. The Working Sheep dog trials are more HEADING sheep which is using the dog to keep the sheep (ideally) 180 o in line with the handler.

We used a round yard containing sheep, we would get the dog to run one direction then the other. A working border collie will naturally try to keep the directly opposite you and the sheep. you move one way.. the dog will keep that 180 o line. While the dog is moving in an either clockwise or anti clockwise direction, you would be giving your verbal command (BACK/BEHIND) followed by the accompanying whistle for that direction.

If you don't have the round yard, I use what I described in my earlier post. I have the dog on a longish lead with a stick (guide) which I use to encourage the dog to move in either a clockwise/anti-clockwise direction around me. The same goes for above.. give the command as the dog is doing the direction followed by the accompanying whistle. The dog learns the whistle command through association. To test it - just use the whistle, if the dog goes that direction - reward it. Initially you may also have to use hand gestures - think of a sweeping gesture around the body in either a clockwise or anti clockwise gesture (similar to the hand signal for "Finish of the recall".

I know other busy trainers who use a lunging whip/stock whip behind the dog to get the same effect. They russle the whip on the ground behind the dog to get it to move away from it. then give the word/whistly command while the dog is going in that particular direction. For this they generally have the dog tied on long lead which is secured to a stake to give the handler free use of his hands.

HAVE TO STRESS>>> they don't hit the dog with the whip.

You could try the stake way.. and once the dog is moving in the direction you want, you can also reward it by throwing food infront of it as it is moving.

have you ever seen a horse lunged? If you have, the direction training is very similar. The animal is going in a circle around you while you are providing various stimulii which the horse/dog is reacting to.

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  • 3 weeks later...

WHISTLE yes, it does work.

Hi, although I am new to this site, and also a new owner of an 8 year old, I have used my special family whistle with Coco.

We started off at home in the quiet of the day, just me whistling either, softly or loudly, (can do the whistle, but as the circumstances change, so does the pitch I use).

I use the same whistle, e.g., if I cannot see my Mum in the supermarket.

Beats yelling, or calling out.

It is the tune, that is the key here, no matter how soft or how loud.

It is just the connection tune to find one another.

So, in Coco's case, when I am about to turn around and head back for the car, or, if he is going to walk in 'No Doggy Territory', I just whistle quietly our special tune and over he comes.

I tried this tune, while he ws in the front yard, and I was in the backyard, It worked, he came to the tune to find me.

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  • 1 year later...
Guest trainer47

I have really enjoyed reading these posts! I am new to "trick training". I am very excited to try some of these things. Will let you know how it goes! I have done a few of my own like, "stick 'em up" and "bang bang". (Always a crowd pleaser! :mad ) and I'm currently teaching all 3 of me dogs to roll over. once they have that down, I'll try to have them all do it together! WE'll see how it goes! :)

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  • 3 months later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 1 year later...

My dog generally comes when I whistle but if there is say a dog around she ignores me. I have managed to get her to sit down and wait till I say she can go and say hello but that doesn’t always work either. The reason that it does work is that she always stop before running up to the dog. Is there any good way of teaching a dog ignore other people/dogs and cats and come back? She ignores everything when she spots a cat… I always give her a reward or praise when she finally listens and gets back after being naughty but it’s a bit frustrating sometimes

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  • 3 weeks later...
You need to build up distractions gradually, and at first only call her when you will know she will come. If she doesn't come the first time, move closer towards her and call her again. Always food or toy rewards when she comes.

:laugh: Thanks, have been adding the "look at me" command and it breakes the focus of the distraction and just feeding her lollies

so she keeps her focus on me.

Will practis more when she is close. One thing is that she generally comes back but only after she has sniffed/checked out the distractions...

i never tell her off when she comes back and always give her lots of praise/treats but sometimes its a bit frustrating :rofl:

Edited by Nelli
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With my dogs I never teach "look at me" command, but whenever I am heeling they always get rewarded when looking at me, or if I am in line waiting for our turn at agility and they happen to look at me, I will reward this, this way they offer it without me asking.

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