Sandra777

Just as everyone else has said, feed him more But don't get all tied up about what he weighs. Is he has a good covering over his ribs and is active and bright then he's the right weight. You may need to adjust his food from day to day depending on what he's doing that day or what you have planned for the next day - all feeding not just BARF is never fixed and often needs adjustment on a daily basis.

There's not at lot a vet could do for him if it is a vaccine reaction, so I wouldn't be stressing puppy out by taking him anywhere. Let him rest, feed him only very soft foods and not a lot for the next 24 hours. Make sure he drinks, even if that means adding milk (if not lactose intolerant) or unsalted stock to his water to get him interested. A little plain cooked chicken meat, a couple of scrambled eggs, perhaps a little low fat cooked lamb if you have some. He won't starve to death in 24 hours, even though he'll probably try to say he is!, but must have plenty of fluids. By the next time his vaccinations are "due" you will need to have made some decisions about what to do.... research research research! But if he continues to vomit is may not be a vaccine reaction, so do be careful :-) Hope he's better soon.

Is it possible to cover the pen with a heavy-ish cloth (thinking heavy table cloth weight material) and peg it down with clothes pegs. Only problem is if you're not careful she may get an end of the cloth through the pen and have hours of fun playing tug of war.

Agree totally. ETA: If it was a carrier I wouldn't necessarily be spaying/neutering or placing on limit register either. It can still be shown and depending on the condiiton bred from.

Can this cause problems though with normal dog interactions which the Stafford takes as being "starting" a fight? I am thinking particularly of situations like dogs in adjoining yards who often have territorial disputes at the boundary line - most dogs tend to bark and posture a bit then leave it alone after making their point. Is a Stafford more likely to see it as a fight that needs to be finished? Not usually - because Staffords aren't stupid :p If the other dog does not actually stay at the fence and offer a physically confrontation, then a Stafford will do the posturing etc too. That said - I wouldn't have anything other than solid fencing along a boundary where another dog frequented - better safe than sorry. Incidentally - I don't consider fence fighting to be a normal dog activity!

Red & fawn are different shades of the same colour, there is no real definition of where one ends and the other starts and if you ask 50 people you'll get 60 different answers. Genetically they may or may not be the same colour - the jury is out so far as I know. Blue fawn is a red smut dog displaying the dilutant blue gene - without the blue gene it would be a red smut (red with black speckles through the coat) as it carries the dilute gene the black is diluted to blue and the red to fawn. Some people also use "blue fawn" to describe a fawn dog with a blue mask (same as a black masked red or fawn except with the dilute gene). Tan is a description which I believe escaped from the pit bull world. It is never used by anyone who knows much about Staffords.

I will not sell a pet buyer a dog the same sex as a young or middle aged one they already have, or one that they have a lot of contact with (for eample, extended family living together, "always" visiting, live next door to etc) IMO this is setting everyone up for a possible failure. It does depend on the age of the other dog obviously - so someone with a 10 year old bitch would be fine to get another bitch.

I wouldn't call Staffords wanderers as such, but if they're left at home alone without adequate fencing they'll go off to find something more interesting to do. I won't sell to people without adequate fencing and I would guess all reputable breeders would feel the same, but sadly our breed is plagued by a lot of less than reputable breeders Yes, I do make sure puppy buyers understand the breeds need for human company and it's determination (which can lead to fence climbing etc).

Three youngish Staffords. The red is a 10 month old bitch, the black brindle with the white foot a 14 month old dog and the plain brindle a 10 month old dog. Shows some subtle differences which are all quite acceptable. The first two are now dead, The first and last are specialist club BiS winners, the centre one a 2 x Res CC winner at specialist club shows by 19 months.

Some of the tell-tale signs are: Obliquely set eyes. Staffords eyes look straight ahead and when viewed from the front are parallel with the ground. Eyes that disappear around the corner of the head or are set with the inner corners closer to the ground than the outer corners are unlikely to be on a 100% Stafford. Rangy "loose" construction in an adult. Staffords are well knit nuggity breed. Floppy adults, with excess skin, droopy eyes/flews and loose skin across the rib cage (unless emaciated!) are unlikely to be 100% Staffords. Pointy noses with excess flews. Almost without exception pointy nosed Staffords (they do exist!) have tight lips. A coat longer than about 3/4 of an inch which is 'soft' (stroke the next Fox Terrier you see) is unlikely to be 100% Stafford. Some Staffords do have soft coats, but they're generally very short. Staffords will develop a fluffy undercoat if kept in the cold, but it is short and dense, never longer than the outer coat.

I am interested in answers for this. There seems to be some controversy about certain colours in the breed and paying more for 'rare' colours. From what I have seen the blues don't seem to look as true to type as other colours. Is this the general consensus, or just my own personal taste of what a Stafford should look like? Just bumping Highly undesirable colours as noted in the breed standard are black and tan and liver. Staffords, like all dogs with the tan pattern gene as well as the brindle gene also come in "black and brindle" where the tan on the legs is turned to brindle. Technically under the standard this is NOT an undesirable colour, but in reality most breed specialists will class it as black and tan and treat is according to it's merits. Liver is the colour described as Chocolate in Labradors - brown coat & brown pigment (lips, eye rims etc). Brindles can also be liver with brown stripes instead of black and brown pigment instead of black. The standard also requires the dog to have a black nose, so liver brindles fail on this count, but in reality unless it's in bright sunlight a lot of people won't see a liver brindle for what it is. Blue. Tiptoes carefully. Blue is permitted in the colour clause but knocked out of the standard by the clause requiring the dog to have a black nose - which is a genetic impossibility for a blue. That said, a quality blue WILL win in the ring under a judge who understands the reality of the situation. Mostly they will be dark blues - Weimaraner grey is very common but fails on eye colour and nose colour in most cases. Unfortunately most blues are bred for their colour and not their temperament/health/conformation and as any breeder knows this is a disaster for any breed - regardless of the breed and the trait concerned. I have seen three blues (in real life) which were of the highest quality, all were bred by "accident" and occurred in normal coloured litters. Apart from these I have not seen a blue in the flesh that I personally would consider to be a good example of a show Stafford, but the vast majority do appear to have good temperaments and as this is by far the most important feature of the breed all is not completely lost.

IMO all dogs should be trained from an early age. If they're not it is the fault of the owner (and breeder for not giving good advice and help in some cases) - it's nothing to do with the breed. The best way to train a Stafford is with consistent and constant positive reinforcement. They are very amenable to training when the right methods are used, and become miserable little shadows when the wrong method is used Yes a lot of Staffords love to pull - but so do lots of other breeds that are considerably stronger and weigh a LOT more than a Stafford! I have 2 bitches who will walk beautifully on leash and one that pulls like a demented demon unless she is walked on a choke chain or with one leg over her leash. Staffords are so enthusiastic about everything they do that when they are puppies they invariably pull, people find it cute for some reason and it becomes a habit, then the dog grows up, gets a bit stronger and some people just find it easier to let the dog pull, because teaching it not to pull seems so hard. Again, this is true with all breeds and not just Staffords. "Dominant" puppies in puppy preschool.... ALL pups play these dominance type games so again, not really breed related. The thing is that Stafford puppies are small in stature but they are pretty heavy for their height and also tend to be determined little sods. They might well weigh twice as much as say a fluffy DD of the same height, which makes the DD an easy target (as it would in ANY puppy's mind!) and they could weigh almost as much as a GSP puppy of a similar age which is twice as tall and four times as unstable on it's legs, so again - easy target! It is up to the owner and the person running the preschool to sort out the puppies into suitable groups and to supervise this sort of thing.

Good point PPS. It is getting quite frightening the number of adult Staffords which are scared to death if a gazebo wall flaps or someone drops a crate on the ground three rings away.

Sounds like any properly socialised well trained dog to me. Not a breed specific trait IMO The bit in bold being the main point! I don't know of any Stafford breeder who are specifically excluding "dog aggressive" dogs from their breeding programme, but again that depends on your definition of "dog aggressive". "Dog aggressive" in the sense of "out-of-control-in-your-face-I'm-going-to-eat-you-the-second-I see-you" to me is the sign of a dog which has been trained or allowed to behave in that way. "Dog aggressive" in the sense of reacting back as you've put it is a breed trait and a sign of a confident, bold dog. IMO attempting to remove the 'dog reactive' part of the breed's nature is to destroy the breed. They are 'bold fearless and totally reliable' because they *know* they can back their words up. There are stories of the old fighting dogs walking down the street sans leash, causing no problems at all. How true these are who knows (because we weren't there) but recent rescues of pit fighting dogs especially in the USA shows that most of them can be trained to not behave in this way. They would (I have no doubt) still 'react back' as you say if another dog got in their face. That said: there are certain Staffords which simply don't like certain other Staffords and this makes the Stafford ring a rowdy place at times. These dogs are fine to me. You see it in other rings/breeds too - the worst fight I've ever seen at a dog show was between three male toy dogs!

No. Staffords were originally bred as fighting dogs. But of course, 'back then' people who were in to blood sports would have been willing to "prove" their dog in any sort of challenge which seemed likely to turn a buck, so there will always be pictures and reports of the same type of dog doing a variety of things. Staffords were used in rat killing competitions, badger baiting, weird "novelty" baiting such as monkeys and no doubt used to control rodents but the origins of the breed are in the dog fighting pit. One of the two dogs used as a blue-print for the original breed standard died after a badger bait (it was still legal)

Define "reasonably" Cosmolo Most (properly raised!) Staffords are OK with other dogs that are properly raised themselves, but they don't suffer fools gladly and really don't do well with rude unsocialised aggressive dogs getting in their face - problem being that there's a whole world of dogs just like that out there.....especially in dog parks Lots and LOTS of Staffords do agility and flyball where dogs are hyped to the max and off leash - but they are under the control of someone who knows their dog and it's limitations. It's frequently said in Stafford circles that the Stafford won't usually start the fight, but they'll gladly finish it.

Congrats on your new family member. You will find Staffords love anything to do with agility, fly ball, lure racing, in fact anything they can do which pits them against a challenge! However at 4 months it would be a very brave vet indeed who would determine that a puppy has a retained testicle..... Hate to suggest you may have jumped the gun, but what sort of vet was it who made this diagnosis, a specialist or just your corner-store type vet??????

I am always surprised when people say this is such a problem in the breed. I have never owned a Stafford with separation anxiety. Yes, they form strong attachments to their people but it is vitally important that from a very early age the puppy learns to be alone. They are such cute and demanding as well as vocal and physically determined puppies that a lot of people tend to find it easier to let the pup stay with them rather than try to make the puppy learn the hard lesson of being alone.

A number of Staffords suffer from skin allergies caused by contact with grass and some cleaning products. Many of these dogs are also not very well bred......... Contact allergies are probably the biggest bug-bear of the pet owning Stafford lover because they are so very hard to cure. Low or no vaccination can help. Natural diet does help. Many Staffords seem to have an underlying sensitivity to both beef and Corn. Very low use of chemicals for flea/tick/heart worm control is adviseable but of course this is dicing with disaster in other ways, so short term chemicals applied when required are better than long-acting chemical solutions. Allergies are closely related to the immune system and it has been "interesting" for me over the years to watch dogs bred from certain lines display demodex as young puppies, then go on to show allergic reactions, and then hear from pet owners with dogs of these lines who have battled with allergy problems the entire life of the dog. They are best avoided by not breeding from dogs with genetically compromised immune systems.

QUESTIONS 1. What is my relationship with the breed? (ie breeder, first time owner etc) Breeder & Exhibitor since 1978 2. Where and why was the breed first developed? Stafford-like dogs are depicted in art as far back as the late 1700's, early 1800's when Bullbaiting was becoming unpopular (and eventually illegal) in the UK, to be replaced by dog fighting and baiting of smaller animals in a pit rather than in the open on common land. The breed was recognised by the KC in 1935 3. How common is it in Australia? Extremely Consistently in the top 8 of the ANKC registrations since the late 1980's. There would have to be at least as many unregistered Staffords bred in Australia each year as there are registered ones 4. What is the average lifespan? 14 years is pretty average, 16 is definitely not unusual 5. What is the general temperament/personality? Some have the very energetic, constantly moving, "terrier" like temperament, while others are extremely laid back and lazy. This relates to physical as well as mental activity! Regardless of energy levels the breed must be absolutely 150% reliable with people. Their affinity for children is well founded - they have the physical & mental toughness to cope with accidental and not so accidental pokes and prods, but young dogs are likely to be too boisterous for small children without good basic obedience and a lot of physical activity away from the children. They make lousy guards of property because of their innate love of all humans. However there are numerous stories of Staffords protecting their people even to their own death. They must have a lot of human company - and they like to be touching you even when just sitting quietly. A Stafford sitting on your foot is a normal behaviour for the breed. Many have an innate dislike of other dogs, they will usually tolerate polite, well socialised dogs but a dog looking for a fight will rarely be turned away. Dog parks are bad places for Staffords. They are an extremely intelligent breed. They will not work for their owner but will work with them. Obedience, agility, fly ball, lure racing and weight pulling are all great activities for Staffords. 6. How much daily exercise is needed for the average adult? Physical activity is always welcome, it's virtually impossible to tire out a healthy adult Stafford, but they're more unhappy about missing daily cuddles than daily walks. Training, games and cuddle time are just as important to the welfare of the Stafford as good physical exercise. A brisk 1/2 hour on a lead and an intense game with a ball or frisbee is sufficient for most Staffords. They enjoy free running in open land, chasing birds and smells. Flirt poles and spring poles are great activities for the breed, but need to be supervised and occur away from where children might play 7. Is it a breed that a first time dog owner could easily cope with? Not easily, but a first time dog owner with some common sense and who is prepared to learn would do fine with a Stafford. Unfortunately some people who have bought a Stafford without enough knowledge allow themselves to be intimidated by the breed's physical strength and enthusiasm as well as the media's mis-representation of the breed, leading to an unhappy situation all round. 8. Can solo dogs of this breed easily occupy themselves for long periods? No. Staffords aren't necessarily good with other dogs in the household either, so buying a doggy friend won't necessarily solve any problems and could end badly. 9. How much grooming is required? Minimal. A dog kept primarily inside will shed minimally spring & autumn. The hair is very short and spiky and can cause allergic reactions in some people. Kennel/outside dogs tend to grow a thicker undercoat and will shed a more fluffy hair spring & autumn. Some lines are definitely more hairy than others too. Infrequent bathing is best, a weekly brush with a rubber mitten will suffice in most instances. 10. Is it too boisterous for very small children or for infirm people (unless the dog is well trained)? The Staffords affinity for children is legendary, however any dog will be too much for small children or the infirm unless taught basic manners. A Stafford past the enthusiasm of youth will almost always temper it's behaviour in the company of children/the elderly, but young dogs will often be too enthusiastic and happy without consistent and kind training. A good number of Staffords have qualified as therapy (Delta) dogs, PAT dogs etc overseas, so they are easily trained to be calm around the old/infirm/impaired 11. Are there any common hereditary problems a puppy buyer should be aware of? Allergies (generally contact skin allergies sometimes more generalised food allergies) Demodex L2-HGA (epilepsy-like condition) Juvenile Cataracts PHPV Distichiasis Luxating Patellas With blues - skin issues such as allopecia Deafness with whites/predominantly whites 12. When buying a puppy, what are the things you should ask of the breeder? (eg what health tests have been done (if applicable) and what is an acceptable result to those tests so the buyer has an idea of what the result should be) Generic questions such as health of the parents, do they suffer from allergies, lameness etc; why did you choose this dog as a mate for this bitch; what are your aims in the breed; can I see other puppies/speak to other puppy buyers. Breed specific questions: DNA results for L2-HGA & HC. All breeding stock should have L2-HGA & HC DNA test certificates. The certificates of the parents should be shown on request and copies should be included in your puppy pack. Clear to clear matings will not produce any pups with either issue and it's unlikely the puppy will have been DNA tested for these conditions. Carrier x Clear matings can produce carriers and all puppies in the litter should be DNA tested, so will have an individual certificate. Carrier puppies have absolutely NO chance of developing either condition and are 100% acceptable as pets. Eye certificate from a specialist for both parents. Preferably showing no sign of PHPV or Distichiasis. Puppies are frequently examined by a specialist and can be cleared for PHPV by 8 weeks, but Distichiasis can develop later so clearance at a young age is no guarantee. HD scoring isn't common. Elbow displaysia scoring is even less common.

In the next few months, if they haven't already, your boys will probably work out for themselves who's the boss - keep an eye on them just interacting generally and you'll probably be able to figure it out. If one is a natural leader and the other a natural follower you'll be unlucky to have too many problems - it's when they're close together in the dominance stakes that the fireworks usually start. You will need to back up which ever one is the natural leader, even though it'll probably be the pushier of the two and the one you like the least :-)

It's not actually that expensive to have him DNA tested - you could start by having his alleged sire and his DNA compared. For the moment you can assume the bitch you saw is his dam and if you're happy that she is a pedigree Staffordshire Bull Terrier then that's that for now. If the dog which is meant to be his sire comes back as a non-match then you could think about having the more expensive test which is meant to identify breeds. His colour is a perfectly accepted and not incredibly uncommon Staffordshire Bull Terrier colour so is absolutely no help in this case :-)

I wouldn't be giving a dog the size of a Rottweiler a knuckle bone. They have a lot of jaw power and those sorts of bones are from the long weight bearing parts of the animal so are extremely dense - put the two together and broken teeth are a big possibility With my Staffords, who are also of the strong jaw persuasion LOL I find "fiddly" bones like the roo tail suggested are better - they have to work their jaws in and around the protrubant parts of the bones and this give them a whole-mouth workout. Lamb necks (whole, not chops) and ox tail (again, whole - not ready for the slow cooker) are the same sort of thing. Mine get chicken carcases virtually every day and these have the same effect - for a one off thing a couple isn't going to do much, but perhaps you would like to consider making them a permanent part of the diet. Some you might need to trim for the weight regime, most are OK.

Can't help you with the white spot thing, but that big black spot is quite normal - some say it's a sign the dog has excellant pigment. Old time hunters in NZ (pig hunting) said it meant the dog had a "hard mouth" - not sure how you'd apply that to a Labrador! ;)

I think you have to look at it from the other point of view. There will ALWAYS be more dominant dogs and more submissive dogs, this is the basic nature of the beast. It could be that you just happen to have got a dominant one. It could also be that he was the strongest in his litter and has learned to be confident of his ability to get his own way by physical force. His reaction to bigger pups which are physically stronger than him will quickly show you if he is genuinely dominant (which has nothing to do with physical size) or is just a big physical bully. There's not a lot of point trying to change his view of the world IF he is hardwired to be dominant. Spend time learning to read him, and figuring out how you are going to manage this behaviour when he's older. Yes, if he is dominant and when fully mature meets another dominant dog and neither backs down a fight will almost always ensue - but it is entirely up to you to avoid these situations....IF he is genuinely dominant of course IMO it's very important that he gets to socialise with adults, perhaps more so than with puppies as adults will teach him not to try to physically dominant them, will teach him the right appeasement signals and will teach him very quickly how to speak dog and not be a little brat (if this is what he is being). As he gets a bit older allow him to mingle with adult dogs - especially sensible fully grown bitches, they are just great at teaching little upstarts good manners. The worst thing you could do IMO is allow him to continue to play with puppies he is able to physically terrorise without the balancing influence of dogs he has to mind his manners with. Yep, he needs to play and have fun, but he also needs to visit boring old Aunty Etiquette now and then!