Loves Dogs

Sorry everyone my computer had a spastic

Have you read this . http://www.staffordmall.com/agilitybreed.htm Thanks Tiggy I love love love this and it explains my girl to a T!

Have you read this . http://www.staffordmall.com/agilitybreed.htm Thanks Tiggy I love love love this and it explains my girl to a T!

Have you read this . http://www.staffordmall.com/agilitybreed.htm Thanks Tiggy I love love love this and it explains my girl to a T!

Have you read this . http://www.staffordmall.com/agilitybreed.htm Thanks Tiggy I love love love this and it explains my girl to a T!

mine love to sleep on their backs

a staffy My girl has the most amazing acceleration and is very agile. She is quick but has the concerntration to listen to me and follow my every move (which gets her unstuck when I get lost ) they have a short coat so no grooming and a female is small. Sorry how could I resist to recommend them just gotta love em! ps she jumps 300

sorry just redaing more of your replies.... Kuta is still quite persistant if she is at the start of her traing session with no rewards but towards the end if I dont keep up the rewards she would through the towel in to but to add to that if we are training a new trick or command or behaviour she will try anything to get the treat which I love about her.

I dont quite understand what you mean but sounds interesting. Kuta my 3 yr old is very enthusiastic with food rewards. She will try all her tricks infront of me even before I have asked her to do anything and always expects a treat at the end of an agility run. She will get worked up over a tug toy but I have to get her going first then take it away then she will do things for me for it but if its a choice between food and toys food wins by miles. Still working out my younger boy he is very inconsistent but he is only 7 months old and gets distracted easily. With consistence Kuta is pretty good except on the weavers! argggg sometimes she is great with entries (which I woory about) and then half way through she looses her drive and decides to not do any more but then other times she is so excited she passes the first few and when I ask her to stop she wants to finish the rest of them hope this is what your after?

yay this weekend! very excited and have been training those weavers!

Luvsablue, most pound dogs are in there for behavioral reasons, and bad owners that caused them. Sure there are success stories, but if you are serious about odedience trialling at the highest level then why would you start out with a possible basket case. To promote and nurture drive properly, it is highly advantagious to do so from puppyhood. From my understanding, the OP wants a dog suited for dog sports? not true. There are so many reasons for dogs being in the pound. Alot of the time its the owners fault. Im not saying there arnt dogs with behaviour problems in the pound but you cant genralise. I have seen amazing dogs come out of the pound.

I agree. I trial staffies and apparently because they are low and heavy they arnt "ideal" but you know what..........my dogs and I love the sport and we dont care. As luvsablu said if you love the dog that is the first and most important factor. I started agility after taking my girl to obedience and watching all the agility people and thinking "we are gonna do that one day" At trials you will see all types of dogs. The boxers I have seen are very enerjetic and thats what you want. Some dogs dont go well like neo mastiffs and extra large dogs that are lovely and placid and happy just to cruise along but if you have one of these dogs your probably pretty similar...very laid back. Good luck Im happy to hear new people entering the sport

My male did this too a few times after my partner had told him off for chewing up multiple pairs of thongs and expensive plants. I agree with the last entry in saying its not disobedient just being submissive

I think it definatly applies. My old boss studied it in humans so I am very familiar with it. Its just craking the code with your dog and finding out which way they are more inclined. If we do this training will be much more rewarding. Love that you brought this up and Im keen to see what others have to say about it

I understand your post and like the honesty of it, Staffy lover. IMHO, I think the PPCollar is actually kinder than a check chain and martingale. So long as you don't live in Victoria, you can use it anywhere else in Australia and for that matter, the world. Above the PPCollar, the E-Collar is kinder still, used on the "low level/negative reinforcement" method. Of all the collars (including an ordinary flat collar) the E-Collar does not have any bearing on the dog's muscular or skeletal system at all and has been proven to be the least stressful to the dog. The latter being said where all things are equal : IE that the training method and handling of one tool to another is sound and appropriately applied. What you do want is something that is effective. Because, if your dog is pulling (regardless of neck or head-collar restraint) then your dog is applying pressure to its muscle and skeletal structure. Not to mention the part that we don't get to see, and that's the dog's stress levels as a result of restraint. An effective training tool, properly handled, sends a message that helps to make it clearer to your dog as to what not to do and that in itself can open up a whole bunch of other windows to show and reward the dog for behaviours we do want. I prefer to first teach a dog what TO do before I teach a dog what NOT to do. But sometimes there is so much learnt behaviour that in certain circumstances/environments the dog doesn't exhibit "desired" behaviour, which makes it near impossible to show it what TO do. So sometimes the "NOT" needs to come before the "TO". I think that made sense? you are making perfect sense. This thread has been very helpful. Thanks everyone for your words of wisdom. Now to put it all to practise.

Those martingale collars look a lot friendlier and comfortable for the dog so Im happy. That has solved my problem of the harmful image of check chains.

Im on the south coast of NSW I will have a look around for one. If yours got you walking loose lead in one session it is definatly worth ago. I just have to find the right one I suppose. Shame Im not up your way.

Thanks huski I will give it ago. So when walking on a martingale you change directions everytime the dog pulls right? Do you check with the martingale as you turn aswell? he is ok when working (training) its just when we are on our daily walk. I might have to walk them seperatly untill he gets the hang of it.

I forgot to mention when my elder dog went through obedience they didnt use head collars. She is a much more placid and "I will do anything for you" dog

I would run from any training club that required me to use a head collar. I can't stand them and will not put them on my dog, especially for obedience, where you can't use one in the ring anyway. My dogs all work on flat collars or martingales (for safety with my Sibe - he can work on a flat collar if I need him to) and all the obedience training I do is done off leash or on leash with a flat collar. What about people who join your club who don't require a head collar? i.e. their dog already walks on a loose leash. Hi there huski. At the club usually the people joining with there dogs are youngsters (from 6 months) and I dont think the dogs that walk on loose leads have to wear them, not sure though. I actually started years ago and went through the obedience with my elder dog and now do agility with her but have just started putting my pup through. I have never had a problem with the elder one pulling but Austin (my pup) just doesnt get the picture. He is ok (but not the best) walking by him self but when Im out walking both of them are always with me. I couldnt bear to take one without the other. How do you train for loose lead walking? And what are martingales? Are they the flat collars with a chain for tightening? I am up for anything that will stop him pulling. As I said before in this thread or another one people always ask if he is aggressive with it on because it looks like a muzzle to some people. I would love to try another way. Im just not educated in any other way.

Im interested to know who uses check chains with their dogs and if they have a good out come. I probably have a negative attitude towards them like some people do with the haltis. I would like to understand that way of training because as good as the haltis are, the last person said weaning dogs off them can be hard which is a good point. I just tried checking or "tugging" with a flat lead which didnt help one bit. I am a bit worried about a check chain because I think from the outside looking in it looks harmful but if someone can tell me the right way of checking then I might give it ago because even though my dog tolerates the halti he definatly isnt the happiest in it. I dont walk the whole walk with a halti on either just on the street untill we get to the river and then he is off to run and chase sticks and balls and swim. Im just looking for the best and safest way for my dog and I to learn how to stop the pulling.

I like them. It stopped my 2 from pulling straight away. My female isnt usually a puller but when I walk both of mine together its a competition to see who can get infront. I have tried checks and food and my boisterous boy just didnt get the picture. I did try for a long time to train this out of him because I have heard of people thinking that the dog has a muzzle on and is aggresive so obviously I didnt want people thinking that but in the end it has been the best choice for us. If you can train your dog to walk on a loose lead another way that is great but if your having troubles like I did its worth a go. I did see the harness with the front latch and wondered how it went because I had this other stupid harness that was supposed to stop pulling but just tightened up under his arms and did nothing. I eneded up taking it back and getting the head collar. At my training club all the dogs that start obedience are required to have one and it is included in the registration fee and fitted properly.

Hi there, When I had 1 dog it seemed ok for her to walk out in front on a tight lead. She was out of my way and the lead didnt slacken so her or I tripped on it. Problem is now I have a younger boy aswell that is bigger then her and they challenge to walk infront of each other. This ended up dragging me down the street and hurting my back across the shoulders. If I told Kuta the female to stop pulling she would for a bit but then end up doing again not long after. My boy doesnt get that a yank on the lead means stop pulling and just pulls stronger so I have now put both of them on haltis and allow them to walk out in front with a looser lead. These things are amazing in controlling pulling and after an annoying couple of walks with both of them head diving trying to get them off, they now adjust their walking speed to suit me. I can now walk both of them together with complete control at a pace that suits me. I tried the food and the checks but nothing worked as quick and affectivly as the head collars. Good luck with it. PS my 2 are staffies and they were like little steam trains I reckon if I had a slead and lived in the snow they would have been great!

well good luck to everyone and I hope you all acheive what you set out for at the trial. My goal is to get Kuta to enter the weavers properly and do the whole lot! see you all there!

I use the clicker on certain things and the "yes" on others. As I train my dogs in agility, alot of the time they are working away from me when I need them to know they are doing what I want. Dont know if its true but my dogs seem to hear the clicker better and I can pin point the behaviour quicker with a clicker. Its probably a silly conclusion to come to but they generally perform better when using the clicker and and they seem to learn faster. Dont know why. Maybe its because I praise them alot in everyday things with "yes" but when we are "training" with the clicker they know its buisness time lol