My Mad GSP

I have to wonder when the dogs are placed not only in an unfamiliar environment (which I think is ok in itself) but also a very 'novel' type of environment which puts the dogs under additional stress how well they are able to accurately determine 'amicability'. My dog is also participating in this study and is highly socialised and friendly and am very curious how this novel environment affects her behaviour. For those interested you can view the Phd students lecture on the topic and some footage of this test on youtube. If the link doesn't work, do a seach on 'building better dogs' the Phd student name is Tammie King.

We got 2 puppies (Labs 1 girl 1 boy) at the same time. They are wonderful company for each other but we have made sure we taught them to spend time independantly of each other. This has prevented seperation anxiety from being apart from each other and allows us to spend 'one on one' time with each pup. It is a lot more work as we have to train 2 pups at once and we take each one to dog club on different days (alternating weeks). Again to teach independance from each other and to teach each dog that some times they have to stay home alone and to have one on one time with each pup and for pups to learn to play with other dogs with and without each other. They are nearly 7 months old now and this has worked well and we have strong bonds with both pups. It has been a lot of work but we are seeing great results for our effort. We also have an older 4 year old dog who has been a fantastic big sister and helps in teaching them doggie manners. I would not change our decision as they are the best dogs but it really is a lot of work and think earlier advice on leaving a 18month to 2 year gap between dogs is good advice.

Thank you so much for your replies. I had considered showing the boy (was just for fun, may not now) and am not using either dog for breeding. My Vet did say it would be genetic. Chocolate - you said there is a way to alleviate the situation which isn't too invasive or expensive. Are you able to elaborate a bit more about that? I checked the specialist's website and saw that they do have 'braces' for dogs, but have heard it is expensive and difficult to keep teeth clean with the braces. I will go to specialist and see what he says as well.

Yes I emailed photos to the breeder and the breeder who also kept a pup from the same litter and the same teeth are affected (they are less pronounced like my other pups teeth than those in these photos) It's a new situation for her too. So I guess I'm going to have to see what speciaist says.

No baby teeth underneath. Pup is 5 1/2 months old and still has some baby teeth to come out but they are not interfering with these deviated teeth. Have 2 pups and both have same problem with the same teeth, however one pup is much worse than the other (one in photos) They are not currently causing any problem but am concerned because they protrude so much that as they continue to grow they may beccome a problem (rub on his lips? and cause an irritation? not sure, hoping someone might know)

My pups upper 3rd incisor teeth are growing outwards. Wondering if anyone else has come accross this problem before and were you able to get it rectified? Have been to vet who has not seen this problem before and have been referred to a dental specialist whom I am about to make an appointment to see.

German Shorthaired PointerX - 3 years old Shelter Dog - I got her at 6 months - Puppy vacc unknown C5 at shelter at 6 months C5 yearly after that Titer Results received yesterday for Parvo and Distemper Parvo 1:80 Distemper 1:80 Still waiting on Hepatitis as sent to UK and takes longer. Cost for 3 tests Just over $200.00 So far no need to vaccinate YAY!!!

Mt Martha Vet Clininc will do them, but is expensive. Currently waiting for results on Parvo, Distemper and Hepatitis Some sent to Perth and one to UK (I think UK, I know one had to go overseas)

Hi I completed the course a couple of years ago. I started my dog business about 6 months before I did the course. The knowlege I have gained is invaluable. What I liked about the NDTF course was that I was able to get lots of 'hands on' dog experience that some other courses did not offer. Got to learn from some fantastic trainers and lecturers, some of which I am lucky enough to still keep in touch with. I'm currently waiting to do their Behaviourist Course next. P.S. In regards to what to expect. Cancel your social life! Your evenings/weekends will be filled with dog training and assignments. But it's very worth it!

It can be due to the amount of oil or jelly used to keep the fish moist etc in the canning process - fresh fish of course doesn't have this issue A tin of sardines in oil often doesn't cause a noticible problem for larger dogs tho it may for smaller dogs - so draining all or some of the excess oil might be worthwhile if it's proving an issue. Thankyou, I will try draining the excess oil and see if this fixes the problem.

I agree with the advice from KitKat and Poodlefan. The only thing I want to add is that providing your dog with raw meaty bones like lamb shanks, lamb necks and chick carcasses not only provides your dog with calcium they give your dog lots chewing which also cleans thier teeth. Vegetables should be raw and pulverised for optimum nutritional value. You may be interested in a product from Vet's All Natural that I use called 'Health Booster'. It is an all natural source of multi vitamins, minerals, trace elements and anti-oxidants. Contains Dolomite, Liver Granules, Flax Seed Meal, Vitamin C Powder, Green Tea, Milk thisle Extract, Grape Seed Extract, Brewers Yeast, Barley Grass Powder, Kelp Granules, Parley Powder, Ginger, Lecithin ranules, Wheat Germ, Garlic Powder, Collostrum Powder, Shark Cartilage Powder, Boron Chelate, Zinc Chelate. I also add Omega 3 oil to her meals. (it gives her a beautiful shiney coat) For some reason (that someone else may be able to explain) my dog tends towards a loose poo when I feed her tin fish.

K9: No, this is incorrect, no anti bark collar puts out enough power on any level to even mark skin... Having the collar fitted for excessive amounts of time can produce soars, called pressure necrosis. Nothing to do with electricity... K9: again incorrect... K9: 3 of what type of collar? Thanks for your response K9 and info on the other collars avail. If no damage can be done to skin even if dog continually barks through high levels then the user must have left collar on for too long. When/if we are in contact again I will point this out. Good to know and feel re-assured no damage can be done. My girl is collar smart and will now not bark at all when it is on. Has never barked past the first level. So my current collar has been perfect for her. I would be concerned about using an e-collar on a dog barking out of stress/anxiety. Even if the collar stopped the barking, if the dog is still stressed could he not then find a new way of releasing his anxiety changing the problem behaviour to a different one, not fixing the cause of the dogs problem. I can see a use in conjunction with other behaviour modification. But some people use to fix the sympton without working on the cause of the anxiety. That's why it concerns me. Re: 3 collars. Electronic, citronella and another one that I can't remember. Maybe that wrong type of collar being used. If things aren't working I wouldn't keep adding multiple collars. suggest professional advice.

I have an eletronic anit-bark collar. An Innotek, however there is no manual way to adjust the level of the zap. I did't know you could get one where you could do this? Can you tell me what brand it is? The Innotek one works in that when the dog barks it automaticly starts at a low level and if dog barks again (within a second or so) jumps to a higher level. There are 3 levels. If dog stops barking after first level, it re-sets and when dog barks again (longer than second or so) it is only zapped at same low level. So in effect it automaticaly finds the right level of correction for that dog. However I have been told about dogs that will bark through all 3 levels and get welts on their neck. But that's a serious barker or a dog with high anxiety where the anxiety over-rides the pain and in these cases should not be used. I know of a person who put 3 yes 3 collars on a dog at once as the dog barked through the collars. Very very stupid.

Raw Bones only for me (actually my dog) and the other important ingredient is 'MEATY' It is the rippping of the meat off the bones that cleans your doggies teeth. Raw bones with no meat don't do the job. Great boredom busters, but not the teeth cleaning factor. All my doggies have fabulous white teeth and hopefully will avoid costly teeth cleaning at the vet for many years. My bones of choice are lamb shanks and lamb necks (however necks are fattier so depends on your doggies waist line which one is best to choose) For small doggies (I also have a toy poodle) I use chicken wings. Although being the dominant litttle thing she is, will steal ber big sisters shank given the opportunity. I always supervise their bone eating. (I overly worry though)