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TessiesTracey

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Everything posted by TessiesTracey

  1. too funny! I've got Staffords, but neither do it. A friend's Stafford does though and it's very amusing to watch. Bless 'em!!!!
  2. Wonderful, thanks, I'll take a browse through their webste. Ormeau isn't that far away.
  3. I'm at the end of my tether!!! Tess n Alf have both had bouts of diarhhea recently and both been put onto Metrogyl. Then put onto Hill's Science ID diet (kibble) to see if it settles their stomachs down. Everything was going well until about 4 days ago when Tess started with the squits again. She's now back on Metrogyl, and a bland diet, but although her stools are firmer (she didn't go for 3 days straight) they're still not looking a good colour, etc. Prior to any of this happening, both of them were on Advance adult, simply because that's what they were on when they came out of quarantine and it seemed to suit them for the following 6 months or so until the first lot of squits happened. Add to that I think Tess now has some sort of yeast infection - she's itchy and a bit flaky inside her ears (though this has dried up and cleared a bit and no nasty smell or anything) itchy and red on her feet, and even round her 'lady bits'. Alf's got a couple of feet looking the same. It's almost like exczema, red and a sort of extra flaky bits of skins that then dries up a bit. Anyway, vet gave me cortizone tablets for Tess for her skin, which (I know she's the vet) I'm reluctant to give until her guts are sorted. I've now been and bought some HOlistic Select food, to gradually introduce to the pair of them once the stomach is settled. But I'm thinking I'd like to get a 2nd opinion of the above stomach/itchiness before I start changing MORE stuff. So original question again (cos I've rambled so much!!! lol) can anyone recommend a decent vet that they have experience with on the Gold Coast? (I'm near Gaven). Thank you! ;)
  4. http://www.goldcoast.com.au/article/2010/0...coast-news.html MUTTS and moggies will be bred out if a breeder licence scheme goes ahead, fears a Gold Coast councillor. Deputy Mayor Cr Daphne McDonald opposed the requirement for 'mum and dad' pet owners to apply for a permit if they want their dog or cat to have a litter. "It's another stupid law," Cr McDonald told a council meeting in Evandale this week. "It's a sad day that we're going to end up with all purebred animals because people aren't going to get a licence to breed animals that are not purebred. Have your say on the feedback form below "A lot of people in this room have got half-breeds -- I've got Muffy. I got him from the pound and he's the most lovable animal that you could get." Cr Chris Robbins asked how the law would be enforced. "Will they be fined for allowing the male dog to jump over the fence or female dog to jump out?" said Cr Robbins. Council officers said the council would have to investigate but in a situation like that might take no further action. They said the permit fee might be introduced 'at a very reasonable rate to begin with' as an incentive. Cr Jan Grew said pet owners had to 'wake up' and take responsibility for high numbers of unwanted cats and dogs that have to be euthanased. "We are talking about killing dogs and cats. You stick a needle into it and it dies," said Cr Grew. "If you do not desex your animal and it has a litter that is your fault. You can't blame the dog because it jumped the fence." Animal management chief Cr Bob La Castra said the permits targeted backyard breeders and aimed to cut the number of homeless unwanted animals. "You still will be able to get crossbreeds, it's just that you will need a permit," said Cr La Castra. "How are we going to control it? It's not going to be easy but it flags the intent." The council approved the breeder permit scheme 11 votes to four as part of the Keeping and Control of Animals (Amendment) Subordinate Local Law 2010. It will go out to public comment and is expected to come into force by April.
  5. I think it's partly the point. Dilute colours in breeds can be associated with other health problems too. Black dilution (i.e. resulting in blue) in Staffords, particularly the blue's can create havoc with the nice 'dark' eye required by the standard. I don't have a problem with blue's, not particularly my cup of tea, but providing they are good & healthy examples of the breed, go for it. Even if some do pay over the odds for them.
  6. The same 'situation' with blue's is at epidemic proportions in the UK too. 'Rare' blue's just aren't so bloomin' rare any more and sadly they do seem to be being produced by people who do not have or do not care to have any real knowledge of the breed. The colour does of course 'pop up' in other litters that are being bred by decent Stafford show goers. A while back there was a bit of a stir as lots of adverts were cropping up for 'rare' merle Staffords. Long and the short of it is, is that the UK Kennel Club were contacted as one of the people selling the merles said that the pups were KC registered. No one could understand why. The KC then stated that they did not have a problem with registering this colour (despite it not being in the breed standard) as the litter can be registered as colour unrecognised. A lot of the main argument being what is the point of registering a litter as a certain colour, yet selling them or advertising them as another. And yet we are also led to believe that the blue merle gene does not exist in the Stafford gene pool, so how can the Stafford pups that this breeder registered possibly 'full' Stafford. I think I've got that right!! Though I might have missed some salient pieces of info out (if so apologies in advance). I can't remember exactly what the outcome was, but basically, I think that the breed council health liaison officer has contacted the KC, not sure of any outcome....
  7. Oooh, I'm glad you've brought that up! lol Would be interested to hear your opinion on it sometime My opinion on the BSE ? Yes, sorry.
  8. Oooh, I'm glad you've brought that up! lol Would be interested to hear your opinion on it sometime
  9. Why? As appalling as this is, I also don't understand why the owners didn't try to visit whilst the dog was in the Met's 'care'? I'm pretty sure they would have been allowed to.
  10. The bite is not the relevant part - the definite of Brachy is as I have given. b Perhaps it would be more useful to constantly remind people the breed is NOT a brachy one so the overdone look is incorrect. Yep Ellz, would be quite happy with head = height at withers gives a guide to balance PLUS the height/weights given in the standard gives another guide to the balance wanted, even though many breeders seem to think the height-weight ratio is irrelevant. Precise measurements don't work in nature, so being pedantic is a waste of time but the ratio gives a very clear and simple picture of the sort of dog that is described in the standard. Balanced for a Stafford, not balanced for a Whippet or Rottweiler! Oh I understand the definition, and how the cephalic index works/is measured (and the fact that it was first introduced to classify Europeans! lol). Although the workings of the cephalic index does not include measuring the jaw/muzzle only the skull, I do think my point in bringing up the jaw and scissor bite is relevant to a canine head, as most mesaticephalic breeds have normal occlusion (placement of teeth) because of simultaneous jaw / mandible length, (i.e. a normal scissor bite) whereas a brachy breed tends to have a shorter upper jaw (i.e undershot) due to underdevelopment of the basicranial axis bones, i.e. the base of the skull. And of course there is the breathing problems witnessed in brachy breeds due to elongated soft palates and shortened muzzles, so forgive me if I do think it has a relevance. I hope I'm not coming across as troublesome, but I do feel it's an important issue. Could you also perhaps clarify the head to withers ratio as a guide to balance? I find that one really interesting - are you saying the measurements should be the same? I digress, so, back to the point (sorry for going slightly off), your second sentence is completely correct. Over exaggeration, particularly with regard to a Staffords' head, should be avoided to encourage a healthier dog which is, I'm sure, what every new owner wants.
  11. I would question whether the Stafford is meant to be a brachycephalic breed though. IMO the breed has been altered by some breeders to make it borderline Brachy but is it actually meant to be one, personally I don't believe so. The definition of a Brachy breed is a breed with a cephalic index of more than 80. The cephalic index is the ratio between the breadth and length of the head, calculated as 100 times the maximum breadth of the head, measured at the greatest diameter divided by the maximum length. I'll try some measuring tonight No, you're right, I perhaps should have phrased my sentence better. They're not supposed to be a brachy breed, but it seems many are heading that way with over-exaggeration. A breed with a normal scissor bite in their standard is not normally classed as brachy.
  12. A Stafford is a "fighting dog" (well was, over 150 years ago!) so should definitely have tight skin on the head and neck to avoid this becoming a liability in a fight. Dogs with excessive wrinkles and those with folds of skin are generally not well considered by breed specialist judges or all rounder judges with good knowledge of the breed. As a breeder I find them to be very foreign and unpleasant to look at. Some people like their dog to have a "squishy face" and IMO this is fine because it's your dog and you should love it, but it doesn't make it right for a Stafford. The breed is meant to be a 50/50 blend of Bulldog and terrier but it is not the Bulldog as we know it today, but a leggier, much more active animal. Being nature things not mix half and half like they do in cooking, so there are variations in the breed. READ the breed standard, this will give you a reasonably good idea of the size of dog which is wanted. 16 inches is the maximum height 'desired' but many are much taller. A 16 inch tall male, fully grown and in good condition, is meant to weigh 38 pounds. In reality most show dogs of this height weigh around 40-42 pounds these days because most judges expect to see dogs with larger heads than was normal when these heights and weights were set down. Almost without exception the "thickset" dogs are massively over the desired weight and this means they are not balanced in the eyes of most Stafford-enthusiasts. Doesn't make them any less loveable to their owners of course! Just as a guide, the Cocker Spaniel is meant to be around the same height (to the shoulder) as a Stafford and only weighs a little less. Many people like "big boofy" Staffords. As a pet owner people can like whatever they like, but these aren't correct Staffords from a show point of view. The last thing to consider about the ones which are thickset is the strain on the shoulders and stifles. Most of these dogs have bones set at the wrong angles (for the breed AND for what nature intended) to allow their bigger than normal ribcages to fit in. Making bones move to whole new exciting positions isn't good for the long term health of the dog. Well if you want a pet dog then this and health are the two things you should concern yourself with first second third and fourth! Might I also add with regard to health - check for specific health checks from parents, ie. L2Hga, PHPVC and so on? And also to thank you for mentioning the 'big boofy's'. :-) Be aware also that a Stafford is a brachycephalic breed and so muzzle length (comparitive to head size) should be a consideration also.
  13. Hi there kye83. Both of my Staffords (one aged 7, one aged 3) are crate trained. I did this from an early age, and providing that the dogs are fully aware that the crate is their bed (therefore a safe and quiet place for them) there is nothing negative I can say about crate training. It is important though that the dog see's the crate as a place of refuge, and not punishment. I've often heard of people crating to try and combat over-excitable behaviour for example - that won't work! The crate is often safer for your dog if left unattended for short periods, and can be safer for your house too if you have a chewer! LOL
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