Greytmate

Yes, go for it. As a responsible dog owner that desexes her dog and updates her council details, who has just saved the council 3 weeks worth of boarding fees by taking the dog early, you deserve your refund.

Can that be done in NSW? Going by the info that has been given in this thread, yes you can. What you would be asking the council for (after the dog is desexed) is a refund of the difference between the full rego fee and and the desexed rego fee. I have no idea if they will give it to you. It may depend on who you get at the counter, and how you come across. You wouldn't want to leave it too long before you ask for it either, before November 24th if possible. You don't have to do this if it makes you uncomfortable, but I would do it.

If you are sure that you want the dog, this is what I would suggest. Get the dog as soon as you can and pay the full rego fee. Keep the receipt. Take the dog to your own vet for desexing. Go into the council office with your receipt and the desexing certificate, and ask them to refund the difference as the dog is now desexed.

Here is a link to qualified chiroprators that are AVA members. Registered Members - QLD Rowan Kilmartin and Tony Smith are both highly recommended.

Have a look at the nutrition information on the packets. Often they will be the same ingredients and the only difference is the size of the pieces.

My vet's old dog choked to death on a raw chicken wing. You have a dilemma when looking after your dog's oral health. Anything solid enough to clean the teeth is solid enough to potentially choke or cause an internal injury to a dog. I feed all bones under supervision. I would stop giving chicken wings or necks to any dog that tries to eat them quickly.

Dogs can sprain toes. But you would expect that it would steadily improve over time, and perhaps deteriorate during the day if overused. You would not expect a sprain to improve during the day and be worse in the morning as is happenning with your dog. I would be a bit concerned in case it is a joint problem. If it was my dog I would give it a couple of days, and if the toe starts to swell up or go red or doesn't improve by then I would take it to the vet. I wouldn't see the normal vet I use, I would see canine vet Dr John Murray in Capalaba, because he is the expert at that sort of thing.

Nobody is forcing you to breed from anything. The value of a scheme where each dog is identified is that the information can be collected into a database and can be used by future breeders. You could get an independant vet to issue you with their own certificate, but that would only benefit you, not your breed as a whole. I don't think it will be that long before microchipping is compulsory in QLD anyway.

I am interested in this. I would like to see things that would be useful for GAP. I would need to know price before I decide whether to come.

I have seen a few dogs with undescended testicles. They still have them, but you cannot see them. I wouldn't automatically assume a dog was desexed unless I had proof. We get these dogs ultrasounded now, to see exactly where the testes are before opening them up.

We recently had a bitch in our program that we weren't sure if she was desexed or not. She had a C-section 2 years before we got her, the scar was a noticeable white line, and the internal stitches were easy to feel. I rang the vet that did the C-section, and he told me that his stitches would have dissolved by now, and that if I could feel some stitches in her, then she probably had been recently desexed. I don't know if he would have written us a certificate though. So we sent her in to UQ for an ultrasound, and found that she had not been desexed. They then desexed her.

It might depend on the breed. Greyhounds can show severe symptoms within a day.

That would depend on your relationship with the vet. I am pretty sure standard vet boarding price is about $40 per day, so it would be up to you to negotiate a discount. One problem a vet may have is that if your dog is taking up a kennel, it might prevent the vet taking in an extra patient. It is a good idea though, and there are some vets that are highly supportive of rescue that might be happy to help.

Yes, one of my dogs changed to a much lower pitched and huskier bark after an illness. The illness only lasted a few days and seemed to be some sort of virus. She lived for years afterwards, but died of respiratory failure, possibly as a result to the damage that occurred to her throat from the virus.

I use Killtix collars on my dogs, as I get brown dog ticks in the yard in Summer. The collars work really well for us.I have never found a live tick on a dog wearing the collar. No substitute for daily checking though. Inside and outside of the ear, under the eyelids, between the toes, and everywhere else.

Not always. But you wouldn't say that the dog was desexed unless both testicles were removed.

I don't mind the smell. I was pulling off about three ticks a day from our dogs earlier this year until I put the Kiltix collars on them. After that, I only pulled one off, and it was dead.

Normally both testicles are removed. :cool: We have had a few boys bleed in a particular way. The inner membrane of the scrotum where the testicle used to sit fills up with blood and feels exactly like a testicle. Except for one small difference. If it really was a testicle, you would be able to feel the little tube connecting to it. Unless you know exactly what dogs testicles are supposed to feel like, the vet should be consulted. They know about these things. Or you can just wait and see. If it is a testicle, it won't be going anywhere. We sometimes ice the scrotum for a while after surgery to prevent the swelling from happenning. Sometimes some of our vets will just choose scrotal ablation (cutting off the scrotum) if the testicles are really big, as it can be painful for the boys to be that swollen with blood.

If it is a hematoma, then your dogs might have had a little scrap. Check them all over.

If we were reading instructions from somebody on how to correctly wash our own hair we would probably take it with a grain of salt. We know how to wash our own hair and we don't care if we do it differently to how the instructions tell us to do it. I think many of us know how to wash our dog too, but the instructions might come in handy for somebody that doesn't know.

Thanks for those ideas. ;) We have decided to manage the problem in a different way for now, until Poppy settles in. There is a large grassed dog run in the back garden just outside the fenced area where the owner will take Poppy out to two or three times a day for an empty out and a quick run. The owner is feeling much more optimistic about it now, I think she has really fallen in love with Poppy. The new routine is a very typical racing greyhound routine. The only problem is that the owner has to take her out to the dog run on lead every single time and that is a big responsibility. One of the disadvantages of owning a greyhound is that they generally cannot be trusted outside of a fenced area, no matter how well trained. Poppy really enjoys the routine, and loves to spend the rest of her time in the house. We did try the square of turf, and it worked once. Then the male iggie came over and weed on the same spot and Poppy then totally avoided the grass. She refused to wee or poo on the concrete or the turf for 18 hours until the owner gave in and put her in the dog run, where she did the biggest wee ever. Then we decided that because Poppy was prone to anxiety and was going through a stressful enough time just trying to settle in, that we would manage the problem for now rather than try to change the behaviour. In a few months we will try again with the piece of turf.

Thanks for your help everyone. Normally we only ever hear about dogs that have the opposite problem, so this one is a bit unique. This dog has probably had really clean habits her whole life, so I think we have a bit of work ahead of us here. My concern is that if the dog holds on too much and wont go, she will end up with a UTI or something. Poor little girl. The adoptor is going to try a big square of grass in the corner of the area tomorrow, so fingers crossed that Poppy will use it. It has been a really long and difficult task to get the right home for Poppy, so now that we have found it, we want to make it work.

We adopted out a dog a couple of days ago, and we have a problem. The dog was in a foster home with a concrete patio and a lawn area. The dog learnt to only wee on the grass. Now we have matched this dog to a home where the toilet area is a large fenced concrete area off the back door. The lady has been taking Poppy outside of this area on lead to empty out, but doesn't know if she will be able to continue this three times a day, as she is suffering ill-health. Ideally we want to teach Poppy that it is ok to use this concrete area. Two other dogs (Iggies) live there and have always used the concrete area for toileting. At first I asked the lady to leave the area a little bit soiled, so that Poppy would get the idea, but it seems that Poppy would rather hold on all day and night than use this area. Now I have suggested that she get a large square of turf and put it in this area in the hope that Poppy will use that at first while she gets used to the area. Am I on the right track? Does anyone know any good methods for training an adult female dog to empty in a concrete area? We really want this adoption to work as we think that this is the perfect home for Poppy. We just need to get this little problem sorted out quickly so that Poppy can stay in this home. Thanks in advance.

What evidence is there that annual vaccination is a likely cause of collapse, muscle spasm and difficulty jumping?

Harminee, can you please do a portrait for my dog Bronwyn? Bronwyn Let me know if you want higher res pics.