Ashka

I freeze all raw meat for a week to kill at least some of the bacteria and hydatids in sheep & goat meat. Still waiting for puppy pics

I always freeze raw food including chicken necks for at least a week before feeding them. Even so I have had the odd batch that caused tummy upsets. Always buy human grade, very fresh chicken necks, they are great for keeping Cavs teeth in good condition and stopping any anal gland problems. I've not found a Cav pup of even 6 weeks who couldn't manage a chicken neck, holding on to one end of it teaches pup to crush it up ~ dogs can't chew They can't move their jaws sideways..

Fresh Cubes of real cheddar cheese ~ NOT the plastic stuff sold in slices that never goes off ~ think about all the preservatives. Dried liver. ZiwiPeak. Nothing made in China or any other Country where you wouldn't eat a very cheap meal. But really, ask yourself, do the dogs really need them?

I wouldn't, corn / maize comes out as it goes in. Chuck cobs in a sealed bin, they are dangerous. Just because dogs can eat corn doesn't mean they should, they are not Chooks.

I've owned two Chows ~ love them I found neat cloudy apple cider vinegar stops the itches. ( Works for me too) They do well on fish as well as meat and bones, they do not do well on grains, starches and cheap fillers. ie dry food. Their beautiful double coat insulates them from heat and cold. Good groomers will never clip a double coat as it ruins them. Give him a hug from me, still miss mine.

Used a check chain for training all my dogs of various breeds and sizes for 30 odd years. Always check with a loose lead never a taut one, move toward the dog to make sure. Dogs should NEVER be allowed pull on a check chain, loose lead only. Practice with the chain on your left wrist to make sure it's on the correct way round so it slackens off immediately. All dogs could be walked at heel on ordinary collars as adults, the check chains are used for formal town walking where leg cocking, sniffing etc is NOT allowed except under command. Chows, Springers or Cavaliers no difference, they are all dogs. Prong collars are illegal in NZ.

Just heard that a beautiful Cavalier in NZ died after helping himself to dried liver. The iron in the liver caused him to go into shock and he died of toxic poisoning. Please be careful: RIP Harley ~ CH DRAKKAR LOADS OF PIZZAZZ

One Idea. Train your dog. Of course you can cut it out. Use a muzzle tied around his nose, knotted under his chin and tied back around his neck if you have to. Chuck a towel over his head if he's completely out of control.

Little dogs generally do better on 2 meals a day. "Empty tummy bile vomiting" can be a problem with once a day feeding as they eat so little.

I have always trained my dogs to lie flat on their sides for general grooming (rubbing tummy is an easy treat for that) Always on a table or workbench, never on the floor in the play area. Groom one side, roll over and groom the other side. All feet easily available to trim excess fur and claws. Mats under armpits and around privates don't stand a chance to form and ears can be cleaned too Many of my dogs have dozed off while being groomed. I groom all my own dogs for showing and as pets. Springers, Chows, Samoyed and now a Cavalier. I know most 'Professional Groomers' stand all dogs being groomed but do what works for you, my dogs are and were always comfortable lying down but never adverse to standing for a ringside tidy up

Often a soft palette problem, excitement is often a trigger. Some fixes: Hold dog under chest and flick his nose down and under to flick the soft palette back into place. Cover nose and make the dog breath through his mouth. Tip a small amount of lemon juice or (safe) strong tasting liquid into mouth which will make the dog move his tongue and think about something else. Hope that helps .

The UK Canine Health Concern campaign to end annual vaccination started in 1994. I've copied the letter below which was signed by graduating vets 10 Years later ie 2004 as the site it was hosted on no longer exists. This issue is not new. Dear Editor We, the undersigned, would like to bring to your attention our concerns in the light of recent new evidence regarding vaccination protocol. The American Veterinary Medical Association Committee report this year states that 'the one year revaccination recommendation frequently found on many vaccination labels is based on historical precedent, not scientific data'. In JAVMA in 1995, Smith notes that 'there is evidence that some vaccines provide immunity beyond one year. In fact, according to research there is no proof that many of the yearly vaccinations are necessary and that protection in many instances may be life long'; also, 'Vaccination is a potent medical procedure with both benefits and risks for the patient'; further that, 'Revaccination of patients with sufficient immunity does not add measurably to their disease resistance, and may increase their risk of adverse post-vaccination events.' Finally, he states that: 'Adverse events may be associated with the antigen, adjuvant, carrier, preservative or combination thereof. Possible adverse events include failure to immunise, anaphylaxis, immunosuppression, autoimmune disorders, transient infections and/or long-term infected carrier states.' The report of the American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Taskforce in JAAHA (39 March/April 2003) is also interesting reading: 'Current knowledgte supports the statement that no vaccine is always safe, no vaccine is always protective and no vaccine is always indicated'; 'Misunderstanding, misinformation and the conservative nature of our profession have largely slowed adoption of protocols advocating decreased frequency of vaccination'; 'Immunological memory provides durations of immunity for core infectious diseases that far exceed the traditional recommendations for annual vaccination. This is supported by a growing body of veterinary information as well as well-developed epidemiological vigilance in human medicine that indicates immunity induced by vaccination is extremely long lasting and, in .most cases, lifelong.' Further, the evidence shows that the duration of immunity for rabies vaccine, canine distemper vaccine, canine parvovirus vaccine, feline panleukopaenia vaccine, feline rhinotracheitis and feline calicivurus have all been demonstrated to be a minimum of seven years, by serology for rabies and challenge studies for all others. The veterinary surgeons below fully accept that no single achievement has had greater impact on the lives and well-being of our patients, our clients and our ability to prevent infectious diseases than the developments in annual vaccines. We, however, fully support the recommendations and guidelines of the American Animal Hospitals Association Taskforce, to reduce vaccine protocols for dogs and cats such that booster vaccinations are only given every three years, and only for core vaccines unless otherwise scientifically justified. We further suggest that the evidence currently available will soon lead to the following facts being accepted: * The immune systems of dogs and cats mature fully at six months and any modified live virus (MLV) vaccine given after that age produces immunity that is good for the life of that pet. * If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralise the antigens from the subsequent so there is little or no effect; the pet is not 'boosted', nor are more memory cells induced. * Not only are annual boosters for canine parvovirus and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anaemia. * There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines. * Puppies and kittens receive antibodies through their mothers' milk. This natural protection can last eight to 14 weeks. * Puppies and kittens should NOT be vaccinated at less than eight weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralise the vaccine and little protection will be produced. * Vaccination at six weeks will, however, DELAY the timing of the first effective vaccine. * Vaccines given two weeks apart SUPPRESS rather than stimulate the immune system. This would give possible new guidelines as follows: 1. A series of vaccinations is given starting at eight weeks of age (or preferably later) and given three to four weeks apart, up to 16 weeks of age. 2. One further booster is given sometime after six months of age and will then provide life-long immunity. In light of data now available showing the needless use and potential harm of annual vaccination, we call on our profession to cease the policy of annual vaccination. Can we wonder that clients are losing faith in vaccination and researching the issue themselves? We think they are right to do so. Politics, tradition or the economic well-being of veterinary surgeons and pharmaceutical companies should not be a factor in making medical decisions. It is accepted that the annual examination of a pet is advisable. We undervalue ourselves, however, if we hang this essential service on the back of vaccination and will ultimately suffer the consequences. Do we need to wait until we see actions against vets, such as those launched in the state of Texas by Dr Robert Rogers? He asserts that the present practice of marketing vaccinations for companion animals constitutes fraud by misrepresentation, fraud by silence and theft by deception. The oath we take as newly-qualified veterinary surgeons is 'to help, or at least do no harm'. We wish to maintain our position within society, and be deserving of the trust placed in us as a profession. It is therefore our contention that those who continue to give annual vaccinations in the light of new evidence may well be acting contrary to the wefare of the animals committed to their care. Yours faithfully Richard Allport, BVetMed, MRCVS 
Sue Armstrong, MA BVetMed, MRCVS 
Mark Carpenter, BVetMed, MRCVS 
Sarah Fox-Chapman, MS, DVM, MRCVS 
Nichola Cornish, BVetMed, MRCVS 
Tim Couzens, BVetMed, MRCVS 
Chris Day, MA, VetMB, MRCVS 
Claire Davies, BVSc, MRCVS 
Mark Elliott, BVSc, MRCVS 
Peter Gregory, BVSc, MRCVS 
Lise Hansen, DVM, MRCVS 
John Hoare, BVSc, MRCVS 
Graham Hines, BVSc, MRCVS 
Megan Kearney, BVSc, MRCVS 
Michelle L'oste Brown, BVetMed, MRCVS 
Suzi McIntyre, BVSc, MRCVS 
Siobhan Menzies, BVM&S, MRCVS 
Nazrene Moosa, BVSc, MRCVS 
Mike Nolan, BVSc, MRCVS 
Ilse Pedler, MA, VetMB, BSc, MRCVS 
John Saxton, BVetMed, MRCVS 
Cheryl Sears, MVB, MRCVS 
Jane Seymour, BVSc, MRCVS 
Christine Shields, BVSc, MRCVS 
Suzannah Stacey, BVSc, MRCVS 
Phillip Stimpson, MA, VetMB, MRCVS 
Nick Thompson, BSc, BVM&S, MRCVS 
Lyn Thompson, BVSc, MRCVS 
Wendy Vere, VetMB, MA, MRCVS 
Anuska Viljoen, BVSc, MRCVS, 
and Wendy Vink, BVSc, MRCVS

Dog gets bathed outside. I use Vetadine Iodine animal wash (from the Vet) in a soft bucket just large enough for the dog with slightly warm water. Soak dog well wiping face and ears with soft cloth. Lift out and let run around like a twit, finish drying with a soft towel. ~ comb. No rinsing required, some white fur goes yellow/orange for a few hours. No itches and a clean shiny coat. No water wasted either as the dogs bedding is hand washed in the same water then hung outside to dry. No set time period, just when necessary as he lives with us in our motorhome... slightly 'doggy' gets too much very quickly. When we had a house the laundry tub was used. Do like the sound of the "Pick up Phone" grooming but I've always done my own, pets & Showies.

Do farmers use toys? After nearly 40 years training dogs, often for Obedience trials, I'll keep doing what works for me & mine. Use whatever works for you and most of all have fun. Your dog should work for You. YOU the most important thing in his life ~ not food, not toys, YOU.

I prefer to use training aids that I always have with me ...... even if nekkid. My Voice for commands and praise ~ My Hands and arms for signals and pats. Consistent = Always. I don't use food or treats for praise with kids or dogs ~ there are more than enough overweight kids and dogs already.

Of course you take puppy with you Crate, favourite toys, food and water and tie out lead. We used a very fine stainless steel cable, won't tangle and is puppy proof. Pup has the tie out lead attached to a flat collar and the main tent door support in the photo.

I have a Cavalier too, Wings, & Necks whole, they won't help clean the dogs teeth cut up. Other bones are good too... Snood required if you don't want sticky ears To get the tartar off the teeth: Start with toothpaste on a cloth to clean teeth, graduate to a tooth brush and if they don't work...... A Tartar scraper from a Chemist or friendly dentist ~ there's another thread about them. Have fun.

I'd get her to an opthamologist asap. Best to get it fixed before she gets much older. Constantly wet skin around her eyes will predispose her to infections as well as unsightly staining. Please let her breeder know too.

Nuilife is one but I often buy the NZ Kaiora Organic brand Coconut Oil. What ever is Organic, Virgin and available when I need to replace it. Traveling around NZ makes shopping interesting at times. Brie, Camenbert & Colby cheese, in that order are doglet's favourite treats. After a lifetime of medium sized dogs ~ he's a doglet

My Beau Supplement is good if you can get it there. I use Virgin coconut oil to increase the fat content of the dogs diet. It's a natural medium chain fatty acid and usually helps with beaut shiny coats.

What Toys Does a Puppy Need. Often Teething so something that they like chewing An old sock tied in knots. A piece of tow rope tied in a large knot. Strong cylindrical container with rice inside to roll along and chase. Big balls that can't get stuck in their throats. Toilet rolls to chew up & 2nd hand soft toys (without eyes or buttons) to disembowel. The most important ~ An adult to play silly buggers with.

A lightweight collar was put on as soon as the pup arrived home and the tanties, if any, ignored. Collar remained on. Pups sleep in a crate, when taken out of the crate the lead is attached to the light weight collar while the pup is being picked up. Pup get to toilet outside on lead. Don't walk the pup to the door unless you want a puddle before you get outside The Lead is used EVERY time pup goes outside. Pup gets toilet and lead trained at the same time. Just a normal part of their life. PS if you don't want to leave a collar on, attach the lead to a lightweight click collar and put the collar on every time pup gets taken outside.. Have fun.

I also have a Cavalier but no eye staining now. If you have already covered the above. Stop all the wheat, beef, soya, maize(corn) and nightshade family vegies (Potatoes, tomatoes) ie all the usual items that dogs tend to be allergic to. Taking all grain and vegies out of the barf mix would be worth a try. Trial and error but you will get there.

First stop is the vet to check that tear ducts are not blocked and that there is no infection. Next comes removing all artificial colours, flavours and, the most important, preservatives from the dogs diet. That obviously includes treats. Cut down on the grain / starch content of the dogs diet too. Yeast overload can cause eye staining, usually 'red yeast' with a distinctive smell. Most dogs with eye staining improve dramatically on a raw meaty bones diet. The hair that is already stained will grow out in time, bleach can make it look better but makes the hair porous so it is easier to stain and is risky around eyes. Some of the eye stain removers work for some dogs. All the best.

You and I have little dogs so have to be extra careful. A large or even medium sized dog can get away with eating rubbish occasionally as it is a very small amount in comparison to their daily food intake. Have fun.